I totally agree!

Thanks Sean! Philip is great to film-he’ll fly through a wall like this. Wish I had your plastering skills!

you all probably dont give a damn but does anybody know a method to get back into an Instagram account? I somehow lost the password. I love any tricks you can offer me!

@Donald Kendall Instablaster =)

@Kristian Silas i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

@Kristian Silas it worked and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy! Thanks so much you saved my ass!

@Donald Kendall glad I could help :)

Thank you Ron!

You’re welcome, Leah, thanks for watching! 🙂

And all of us DIY patchers don’t have dry guns..

Good to hear, Pernell! 🙂

Are joints Tounge and grove? Are trying make wall look flat or just want fill in gaps? What about None shrinking wood fillers or an Good Painter's Caulk.

Lol,. This guy is full of shit. Bucket mud is perfect for beginners. Actual Drywall crews use bucket mud exclusively.. once your good enough with bucket mud you'll know when to use hot mud.

Bucket mud is good it just takes longer to dry and if you were skim coating walls ( making them smooth) I recommend the bucket it has a glue in it and sands easier. You could use powder for First coats and then use bucket for finish coat.

Bucket mud is EXACTLY what you ant if you are a beginner. This video is mostly crap.

Bad adhesion, substrate was shiny, oily, dusty, chemically incompatible, too porous; some or all of the above.

...I've heard that's why they add watered down wood/carpenters glue into the water before adding drywall powder. Also, they paint it onto the wall

You are mudding over plaster that is not bonded to the surface below it. Improper prep before mudding.

Bucket mud is easier to sand, last for month if not years in the bucket, so you aren't throwing away the unused portions, it doesn't ruin your tools if you let it dry on them, and is much easier to use for beginners. You really don't want to use 5, 20, 45, or 90 minute mud on your final coat. It's too hard, it's hard to sand and doesn't take paint as well. Stick to the bucket unless you have 1/4 inch or deeper gaps to fill.

I use a damp microfiber cloth

Minimal dust left by either a dustless Porter Cable sander or hand sanding. Been doing this work for almost 40 years and no need to dust the wall after sanding and before priming.

Try improving your mudding skills first. Then use a dustless drywall sanding system.

Powdered fast setting is way harder than premade bucket or box mud.

Not sure what your question is getting at.

I've used one for the past 15 years and never had an issue or a call back. I think it could depend on the mud you are using and if its prone to not have much glue in it

@@Van_bya_river ...appreciate your dialogue because we can all learn from it :) xoxo

Never found that to be the case.

@@A.S.P.R. Yeah the powdered compound or real plaster needs water and time to rehydrate. Once the mud has set, it can be dried out quickly. But remove the water prior to hydration and the gypsum or lime does not crystalize properly. Once the mud has set, it can be dried out quickly. We have been doing plasters, mostly with integral color, for around 40 years.

@@endoalley680 I guess I didn't understand your original statement. I agree....let it set first, then quick dry.

These setting compounds have plaster of Paris in them. That’s why they dry hard and fast

That’s what she said

Hard to eliminate all sanding, but that being said, the goal is to have such good mudding technique that the sanding is minimal.

Yes. If its hot mud its usually dry at 4 to 5 times what the bag says which is working time. If its humid it might take longer. Hot and arid is faster. Put a fan on it to increase timing in any condition.

LMAO

I did metal work for a bit and picked up on calling them “Slag”

...I'm gonna use that one ...lol!

That's right. Some people have a different level of risk tolerance than you do.

Don't forget to use some bin zinsser primer first😉. That will allow to cover any exposed paper from removal and prevent bubbling

@@rickblaine7463 used Roman Rx-35

@@rickblaine7463 but thanks!👍

Because you are looking at a plaster wall, not drywall.

Of course. Heat gun is for small spots. We use a large 5000 CFM fan for bigger areas.