Thanks! That means a lot.

Ditto, NOW I understand led strips, lol Thanks, Mister Hook Up :)

Same here.

Another +1, except to say I'm not sure I've ever seen a video as concise and helpful as this. I reckon it's the gold standard for product explanation videos.

It will be cool when they start using LEDs as regulation lines, such as street markers and Olympic swimming events. Could you imagine watching swimmers with chase LEDs to mark their progress, lane and times embeddied into the bottom of the pool? Color coded with their team logos....

There are controllers that work also on 12V like SP511e. You just plug 12 DC into box and you can power and control LED from this box. You can also flash on it WLED firmware.

Hoping you can answer a question for me on my LED. I have the WS2812B, 2 of them. But I can't figure out how to get both to light up. I have one working fine with the controller and everything. I plugged int the connector from the 2nd strip to the first one (the White/Red/Green Wire connector), but it doesn't light up. There is still a red and white wire not connected to each other, wondering if i need to splice these two together to get the power to it?

Really, I didn't understand a single thing he said. ; )

@@mydogskips2 fair, I guess I have some background in electronics and microcontrollers but I've never messed around with big arrays of addressable stuff or power requirements for LEDs so I was counting that as a newbie

What is the most powerful type? I'm really lost in these led strips 😂

@@mirrekku I think it's more depending of manufacturer than chip technology or voltage (between 5050 leds)

Absolutely. Facinating topic, and loved the breakdown. One thing I love about his videos is his details, but it's usually lacking for beginners like me on how to integrate, there's a lot of assumption that I'll just know what he means by looking at a Node Red flow. Love the videos though.

@@scottwilliams1900 Same. He needs a kiddy pool playlist to get some of us up to speed. Great info thought, I'm subbing.

I'm left wondering which of these I can simply hookup to a smart light switch (Lutron Caseta), and control it all through Smart Things and Google Home.

@@luke9822 I think if you have a smart controller you can do it with any of them. He's assuming you're just using an on/off switch with them.

@@dreamingrightnow1174 fair enough, but it seems the Lutron caseta switches want a very specific controller type.

This is the temperature of the white channel for RGBW leds: W = White NW = Natural White (a little bit warmer) WW = Warm White To get the exact temperature of each you need to check the description of the seller.

I’m a bit late over here but in case it can help: there’s also « cw » which means « cold white » :)

WS2815's "waste" more power. If you are running white (equal R G and B) they will produce the same light per watt as a 2812 or 11, but when you get into single color stuff the remaining wattage is not converted into light.

@@TheHookUp yeah, i totally get it, but apples-to-apples the real question is do we go with WS2815 for our "normally blue" mobile display that has native 13.8V power and not have to deal with all the extra effort of power injection, or do we go with a 5V setup and add all the complexity of power-injection, voltage conversion, etc, and in the end, are we still getting the brightest display ? AFAIK, nobody has done a comparison of actual light output. Perhaps the WS2811 and WS2815 both excel in actual lumens output regardless of color accuracy ? Anyway, thanks again for this great info.

@@TheHookUp hi I'm so glad you made this very informative video. Easily explained and gave me a way better understanding of leds. I have a question if you can answer please. I want to make my own led set up to be exactly like a led kit off Amazon to try and keep the cost as low as possible. The Brand is GOSLARLIT and here are the specs • Voltage: AC100-240V(input) • Full set quantity: Outer frame(190.56 x 95.76 x 1.97 inches) + 15 hexagon • Power: 552W • Lumen：60720lm-66240lm • CRI: >90 • CCT: White • Material: Aluminum+PC Cover Exporting carton includes following items inside: • Tubes :440*20mm 6w 60 pieces • Tubes :1185*20mm 16w 12 pieces • Connectors: 90° 2-way white 3 pieces • Connectors: 180° 2-way white 8 pieces • Connectors: T 3-way white 1 piece • Connectors:120° 2-way white 16 pieces • Connectors 120° Y connector white 30 pieces • The power cords 3-ends ¿My question is are these JOYLIT brand led strips also found on Amazon the same as the ones in the GOSLARLIT kit? • SUPER QUALITY--High Brightness 5050SMD,6500K cool white LED strip light 12V,CRI>80,high density 300LEDs/16.4ft (NOT INCLUDE POWER SUPPLY) • IP65 WATERPROOF--This waterproof strip light put in clear silicone which protect it very well from dust&water,perfectly for both indoor and outdoor using (DON’T PUT IN WATER) • SAFE TO USE-DC12V Voltage input,touchable to children. Power Supply not included, please search JOYLIT 12V 5A Power adapter • FLEXIBLE & CUTTABLE & LINKABLE & DIMMABLE-Every 3 LED cuttable without damaging the rest strip lights.Flexible to bend it to any shape to meet your requirements

If the spec sheet says you're good, generally you're good. The ones you found were probably intended for automotive applications (cars are generally ~13.8v when running). Higher voltage also reduces the percentage of the voltage drop over the strand (as was indicated in the video).

i've also found that the ws2815's can get a little warm if you bunch them all up together for a longer period of time. Spread them apart and give them a little room to breath and that should be more than adequate for heat dissipation. I also have a theory that they will actually run cooler when running all colors at max brightness since no power will be lost to heat since none of the R, G, or B lights will be internally shorted (power lost to heat vs power lost emitting light)

Haha. The worst part is I'm actually a chemistry teacher also... I (incorrectly) always pronounce them the same.

Fake boobies are also made of Silicone, or, they used to be

@@TheHookUp My chemistry and physics teachers were my favorite in High School. Those teachers actually cared about what they were teaching and were legitimately interesting. Watching your video reminded me of being in those classes when we were talking about relevant but tangential topics my teachers were genuinely interesting. Good times - my 10 year reunion is coming up! Know that you make a difference for kids like me - even if they don't act like it at the time lol

@Too Sense Wirth one of em at least.

My power supplies and switches are 24v. I want controllable white balanced. Not rgb. for cove. I’m wondering if channel and diffuser is still recommended for cove and the best smoothest light available for the longer runs needed in cove lights .

True about static white, but it's a good baseline to budget your power for since you don't want to be maxing out your power supply at 100% duty cycle.

I did like the SK6812 for its separate *W* channel but the problem that I run into is finding a individual controller for them. The most common one that I've found, doesn't seem to work properly with 6812s and seller just told me SOL. I didn't want to resort to microcontroller options yet, just wanted a BT controller with mobile app. @@TheHookUp, what are you using specifically for SK6812?

Do you want to try our 10M WIFI RGB Strip Light ? Now we need testers.Message me for details.