Well said

Was it grey? :)

Hi there, nice re the restoration. Lol It's ridiculous when folks take a hobby that revolves around building plastic model kits so seriously.

@@grahamhodgson9154 agree mate..but thats what happening to this iconic plane in all the forums i go in...but we try to do our best on what latest info we get on..cant pleased all of them.

The Zeros start getting addictive fast when you see all the liveries you can do :) I like that the sandwich shading gives a lot of control over the depth to the paint. You can do so much just at that step alone to give the model life Send me some pics when you try it

@@TheModelGuy hey I tried sending them in KZfaq but apparently that didn't work I guess outside links are not welcome here. I also sent you a message on Patreon (I think) but also not sure that ever made it's way to you. Plus side it went really well! Lol

@@gamerleveldad1397 weird I'll have a look to see what's going on

Hey Kiwi, I was very stoked to be sent the sample. The Tamiya Zero is nice as well but doesn't have the same cockpit detail or the rivets Eduard did. I'm sure these Zeke's will end up everywhere. It's a very solid kit

Eduard really went up a few notches with this kit

Thanks Mark

Thanks Ben. I was very surprised they sent it and didn't think I was worthy.

Who let you in here?

I use masks when they are available. It makes life so much easier.

I struggled with the same problems of masking canopies. Pre cut masks are a Godsend. Lots of companies make masks now, Eduard has a huge variety of masks for all scales and manufacturers. They were a life saver for the 1/48 HK Lancaster I built. Highly recommend them.

I'm glad the video helps :)

Not a problem Skim, it’s nemesis will be here shortly for another review

Merci mes amis

I'm sure a Texan/Harvard in 1/48 would sell like crazy. So many countries and air forces used them. Lots of liveries as well.

Thanks dude. Its been a lot of trial and error

The cockpit is sort of the pearl of the kit. You know it's going to be a focus point and even if only a third of your effort shows, it looks better than stock

It’s just experience. I don’t consider myself better than anyone. We’re just all at different parts of the journey.

It’s definitely Eduard’s best work to date

@@TheModelGuy Off topic but your video did spark an idea.. And I will be getting this kit real soon. By chance what company makes a good line of JA planes.. I am trying to find ground crew, maintainers etc. and it's crazy hard.

I'm sure I could do that, maybe a more in depth series. I'm in Alberta as well. I plan on hitting the capital city show this year if it happens

Oh boy that's a loaded question :) First off, thanks for watching an taking the time to comment. I really appreciate it. I've done both the new tool Tamiya Zekes (A6M3 & A6M5) and they both assemble very well with no drama. The low parts count also helps it out. Now, The Model Guy from seven years getting back into this, and newer, or modelers who are happy with a build with no drama, I would suggest the Tamiya kit. The big difference with Eduard, is the surface detail and much higher parts count. There is also a lot more going on in the office. If you're put off by a high parts count, maybe steer away from this kit. But, between the Tamiya offering and Eduard, this would be my choice. I love detail and this is right up my alley. But I would happily build either.

Thanks for the reply. Got back into modelling in 2018 after a 40 year break and have been a fan of your channel for a couple of years. Built a couple of Eduard's recent kits in the past and they were great kits. Hopefully Eduard will come out with a weekend edition in the near future as they are usually great bang for your buck. The Eduard double pack is just to expensive for me. Will have to watch your 2 videos again and decide what one I will get. Eduard Profipack when it finally arrives in Canada or the Tamiya as it's readily available. Hmmmmm....

For glue Tamiya Extra Thin quick setting is a great well rounded glue. That's what I started with and only recently.l moved to a faster drying glue I use perfect plastic putty for the wipe away glue but one draw back is it shrinks after drying. So you'll need a few layers and allow it to fully dry.

@@TheModelGuy Thanks so much, this helps a ton.

@@TheModelGuy OOPS, I was researching video and a few more, forget to ask, How about the black gloves are they special kind to prevent body oils , or prevent glue from sticking. I remember getting " glue prints" from glue on finger tips. Sorry about that - so many models so little time :-)

A few of the guys stating they were right were sending grainy washed out pictures from books. That had dark photos to start with. I settled on the one that sent a picture of a well lit fuselage part with some paint chips around it

They are included for the 2 planes in the combo box

There is a pair of everything

Thanks bud. I used Mr Paint Cowling blue

For the rear canopy yes, it’s cowling black.

If I had a twonie for every person that came in here saying “you’re saying decals wrong” I’d be able to buy the Border Lancaster. Not everyone speaks English with the same accent.

They call for a mix opposite to what I did.

@@TheModelGuy thanks, but what I mean is, what make of paint? E.G. Airfix always list Humbrol and, Tamiya always list Tamiya paints (of course). So, what do Eduard lst?

@@ponymoore6140 gotcha. They call out for Mr Color paint

Maybe some Tamiya XF-17 Blue?

Maybe… :) It should be here any day.

@@TheModelGuy the same kit you’re reviewing is available in BC I forgot that I was ordering one in till now

That is the masterpiece models Benchmate for 1/32-1/24 scale

@@TheModelGuythanks

I'm scratching off the top layer of paint to show the aluminum underneath. That gives you some chips :)

You can use XF-76 IJN grey green from Tamiya and be in the ballpark.

@@TheModelGuy thanks.., even my local hobbyshop is running low on tamiya paints not to mention Gunze

I bought a lead wire set from Cabella's that you'd use for fishing lures. Comes with different gauges.

That's what I mean when I say I'm surprised Eduard went all in on that Zekes. It's a very niche aircraft that really didn't seem to have a following. But the amount I'm seeing being built online makes me think I was wrong.

Vallejo Model Air is a very delicate colour. You only need a few drops of thinner to paint to spray it. It sounds like you’ve put on too thick of a layer. I used Vallejo quite a bit starting out but being an acrylic it can be very inconsistent. If you are set on acrylic paints, I recommend moving to Mission Model Paints or the Mr Colour Aqueous Range

@@TheModelGuy: Thanx for your advise. I mix the vallejo gloss with thinner 50/50 and use a 0.2mm airbrush.

This was the reference I followed www.google.com/search?q=a6m2+landing+gear&rlz=1CDGOYI_enCA871CA871&oq=a6m2+&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j35i39l2j0i512l3.3513j0j7&hl=en-US&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#imgrc=if36LIpYVCusoM

@@TheModelGuy So you can see in the pictures that you are not correct with the brae line along the leg. Salute.

@@TheJeannot52 I'm confused what you are trying to say. In the image the brake hard line is on the gear leg. You are saying it should be on the door?

@@TheModelGuy OK. The brake line passes through holes inside the gear cover, then twists to the leg and goes down to the wheel hub. On your link it is plainly visible. If you own the Maru Mecanic on the Zero there are very good pics of that. Regards.

I ordered it from a site in Canada called Hobby Enablers. It's Oramask 810

@@TheModelGuy how did you draw out circle in film?

@@43rocket as stated in the video a Silhouette cutter

@@TheModelGuy if you have alumium plane you airbrush, first you put down black primer, but how do you use mig chipping fluid to make base come through if black?

@@43rocket aluminum doesn’t chip off. That’s the actual colour of the metal under paint.

Well 1930-40s aircraft paint is not your average DYI paint, but comes with military specs and requirements. Still does not mean that colors don’t have factory variation, period variation and environmental effects and even application techniques. Of course the best hard evidence are the aircraft samples followed by factory specs. Some of these factories still exist today. Besides what a color looks like from the factory and how it looks on a model with scaling and other considerations is something entirely different. As a side jump, you sometimes read how (some) pilots would try to get every bit of speed out of their aircraft by waxing them. You can imagine that a waxed aircraft would look very different to its drab counterparts. On the one hand everybody thinks they are an expert (after reading a couple of web sites, articles or books!) but don’t go dismiss everybody because some people have been studying the subject for decades. Also some references are quite good. Still leaves a lot of artistic interpretation, especially if some subjects are only known for photographs showing only part of the scheme and details. That’s where many heated debates can ensue as well. The A6M is a beautiful aircraft especially the early war Ameiro scheme, or the early field applied green camouflage. …and yes, people can have endless discussions on RLM colors and schemes and never come to a final conclusion.

Here's the thing with watching people build on KZfaq. You are seeing edited videos and people rarely show their mistakes. You have to also remember you are seeing years of experience and the only way to get that is keep building.

ARMA is doing one this year and their quality in 1/72 is amazing. Better than a certain brand in 1/48.

@@TheModelGuy oh ok thats good news

Yes you can but practice on a test kit first.

@@TheModelGuy Cool! Thank you :D

Incorrect, Japanese Naval paints were actually very good quality and fairly well standardized.