Latex gloves are needed? Thank you for this very important heads-up

@@joshwarrey3728 many latex gloves are actually vinyl. buy nitrile

@@ravener96 Good to know.

Holy sh.. Thanks for the headsup

Thanks for this heads-up as I plan to acquire this printer.

I think alot of people think fdm printers when you talking about 3d printing

We still rely on miniatures companies because we don't know how to design our own miniatures and convert to printable files

@@rking1106 there are actually videos explaining how to make trhem in blkender and print them, trhe revolution is soon.

its on sale right now at my local microcenter for only 99$ im thinking of picking it up now

I've just bought this printer for 120 bucks as it was 50% off! thats incredible. I used to pay almost that amount to print my prototypes at a 3d printing service.

That's free real estate ;D

They realy repaired the pause feature ? That is the only thing i was afraid of

I’m thinking about getting one for 40k models. Do you think it would work for that?

@@oneshotgaming3961 It'll do infantry, tanks, titans, pretty much anything the build plate will allow. Though I'd recommend getting the Halot one pro if it's still on sale, bigger built plate and better resolution.

How is it

Glad I could help! As I said, buy what you need not what suits me best.

@@TheOuterCircle yeah we looked up some printers, and this one is one we think about. Your video was really really helpful :)

That’s good advice.

It's not about the printer, it's about how you set it up. If they run a pretty expensive model, you can generally assume they give a damn about the quality. If it's a $300 printer... I'd ask questions of them.

Creality resin is solid, I usually just buy Elegoo resin as it's a good price on eBay and has never let me down.

already is tbqh, just stick in the muds who still want to pay 10x the price for worse minis. Plus with a bit of 3d cad design effort minis like never before are showing up.

My mini factory, thingiverse, lots of places to go find model files, they are very easy to aquire.

The bigger models definitely allow you to build much bigger units, and this wouldn't do anything bigger than a rhino, even then, you would want to print any rhino in this in multiple bits as the rhino would barely barely fit a side onto the build plate.

@@TheOuterCircle Yeah that makes sense. Print it off in smaller parts, then assemble. Be interested to see how these would go. Much cheaper to setup than my Stepcraft CNC was haha. Thanks for the reply Macca!

Hi Marcel,the Halot-one light source is an integral light source. Compared with the parallel light source(LD-002H), the uniformity of the light of the integral light source is increased by 10%-15%, which can make the printed model more accurate.

Tough call, I think I've had better results with my Creality systems over time. I've been weighing them against one another for a while now.

I'd talk to them and try and get a new screen sent out, or a new unit if it's brand-new from them, as it's going to cause issues down the line.

@@TheOuterCircle Thank you for the quick reply! It just came in today so I can definitely get a new unit.

I use Elegoo resin, and I’m using the stock slicer “Halot Box” it came with, which I updated when I installed it. The stock settings are perfectly adequate, namely as I’m trying to create content which anyone can use out of the box.

@@TheOuterCircle Nice, thanks for replying! Did you figure out what's the settings screen for in the printer? You can configure a bunch of stuff, but it doesn't affect the prints, so... What's the point?

@@LuisHansenNH depends on the firmware version you’re using, also gives you some small tweaks on the fly. I haven’t needed to touch it in all honesty and I’ve produced some fantastic prints, I’ll have a revisit on the Halot coming in a couple of weeks where I show some of the products produced and talk about pros/cons after using it for some time.

Hi Luis, thanks for your support, it is recommend to use the default setting. if it did not work ,please increase the bottom exposure time and send email to halotsevc@creality.com with your question, we will offer you the solution.

@@halotservice6739 look at that, can't beat that sort of service! we're delighted with our purchase of one of these.

I was thinking about the Elegoo Mars 3 4k, Does it function the the one Macca just reviewed? Easier /harder to use? Is it better than this creality one? Sorry for the Rapid fire Q&A. lol

@@FamousJX it's cool it's not out yet so not sure how it will be in reality it is also my first one. But reviews for the content of it are positive with how it performs 😁 big build plate, monochrome screen (better designed for 3D printers) leveling on all 3D resin printers are pretty much the same, same goes with clean up etc... All can use any kind of UV resin for 3d printers but might need to fiddle with settings. Most use the same branded resin as they have the settings there for you ready to do 😁 and of course you can mess around with them to try to get faster printers, smaller layers (smoother finish but takes longer) look up some reviews there are a handful on here. Uncle Jessy is good for this stuff as well.

@@yagsipcc287 Very nice, Thank you for the info. :)

@@FamousJX no worries bud. We should all help eachother 😁 too many Bootlickers out there. Ha

I mostly use Siraya Tech fast cure grey.

It's 2K

I don't tend to show a lot of tutorials on KZfaq, I do a bit of showcasing on instagram, but I tend to keep the two quite separate to one another.

Often the build plate isn't adhering, so you need to grab it out, sand it with coarse grit paper, and put it back in. After that, you can also try simply changing the resin, it's often the biggest offender. If you use a clear resin, you can often watch and see the UV light to see if it's curing correctly on the screen.

The stuff from the vat, yes, it needs to be filtered back into the bottle before you do.

well he is using the cleaning func wrong so dont count that w8st so its about $1 give or take 50 cent for the rest of the parts if it needs them (guns hands holding whatever and a base) and you dont have to use their resin and you can get it for $20

No it isn't. I got 1000ml or less than 35$US. That's for good quality Elegoo ABS style resin as well.

@@shanepatrick4534 the siraya tech fast is much better for around $20 bucks 500ml

@@warshak11 Cool I'll try it out.

I said $25 for 500mL of Elegoo resin, and that's in Aussie $$$ with next day delivery. I usualyl buy it when they offer 4 for the price of 3.

Can definitely be done, I do have a larger format printer from Creality I haven't really shown off yet which I printed a 28mm Armiger + a bunch of extra stuff in a single run.

@@TheOuterCircle fantastic Would you be up for giving it a go ?

@@Southpoint2019 I'd be tempted once my time frees up in another month.

It's a 2k screen, not a 4k, that's about the worst of it. It has wifi connectivity and updating, it has a good build plate and easy to use interface. On release they didn't raise out of the vat on pausing the job, that was probably about it.

Excess resin is reusable, so long as it's filtered.

I really love it, mine hasn't skipped a beat and I've made a LOT of miniatures in it. I just dropped some money on an LD-006 from creality, after that I might look at a Halot Sky because people REALLY rate that.

@@TheOuterCircle Question for you, apparently the machine should be supported by Lychee, but if you go into lychee there's no settings you can actually change. Is the only way to change exposure and what not, via the screen?

@@biggrundo6667 I haven't tested it with Lychee so I honestly don't know the answer

@@TheOuterCircle ah, is there a way to change exposure times and what not through halot box? I only manage to change them on the printer.

You can change these settings in Lychee after adding a resin profile

Schrödinger Josh LOL - Use a mask (not the one in the video, it is useless for that), and wear gloves, it won't harm you and could save you a hard time :-)

I didn't, there's pins which hold it up up and locate it when you move it, at least on my model, so it isn't touching the PETG film against anything nor anything against the screen.

@@TheOuterCircle oh ok my mistake i know it can damage the screen easily