I just wanted to say thanks for posting this. I'm diagnosing this now, but you probably saved me days of downtime.

Thank you so much man. This really helped me a lot. I just bought my first ender 3 pro and I ran into this issue after I first set it up and I was scared thinking I broke the printer before I even used it. This video helped me a lot. Thanks!

I've used a few cable routing solutions and I'd definetly recommend getting some textile sleeving. It's easy to open and swap things then re-wrap. I also want to note that your issue is a broken wire so you don't really need to replace the full thermister. Adding a couple microfit or even a simple dupont connector would save you from needing to swap the thermister and opening the board enclosure.

I had the I had a similar problem just a few days ago, but on the other end of the spectrum, my hot end temp dropped to -14C. Didn't take too long to realize that my thermistor had gone bad. Creality actually has a nice little video here on KZfaq showing how to replace it. It even has a few tricks on how to run the wires through the sleeves. But I have to admit, all that hot glue that they put on the board, what a pain in the butt. Thankfully, every other issue I have had with my Max has been minor ones.

Was getting this same fault on my Ender 3 v2. This video helped me find the problem. Ended up being a loose screw at the hotend that connects the white wire. This video helped me narrow it down. Thanks!

If you are replacing the thermistor use strong thread like carpet thread tie it to best end of the BAD thermistor to go through the sock. Pull out the bad thermistor cut thread and tie it to the new one. Pull the thread to pull the new thermistor through and reassemble.

I just wanted to say thank you for the video, I had a identical issue and replacing the thermistor fixed it.

I took the silicon style flexible cube shaped thing off my ender hot end (right on the nozzle almost) to unblock a filament snap off in there and got this alert all the time until I put the silicon sleeve back on my direct drive printing nozzle. so you might be able to try that too, it worked for me.

I had to replace the thermistor on my Ender a few days ago. What led me to believe it was the thermistor was watching the display screen. The display of the printhead temp normally climbs by two or one degree at a time while preheating and stays at the exact temp or within a degree or so. When mine went bad, the temp was jumping all over the place sometimes by ten or more degrees at a time. Print head simply cant warm up that quick. Surprised that the factory did you the run around like that. I was planning to contact the factory to get a free replacement to have on end but think I will save my time instead. Thanks!

thanks for this, we'll be giving it a try. nice job explaining!

Thanks, I believe my ender came with my thermistor loose. I've tightened it up and it seems to be working fine. This is my first printer and thought the temps must fluctuate by a few degrees here and there. Now it holds solid.

Thanks a bunch bro it just Started acting up a few days ago I noticed the temp jumping a few degrees and it started acting goofy gaps in prints and went off like a fire alarm ⏰️

Thank you bro I have had 8 of the same print fail because my thermistor was bad

I've got the THERMAL RUNAWAY twice in like 3 days...the first time I noticed the nozzle got a little of PLA in a shape of a ball, I've cut it out then bed level and it was ok.But yesterday I've got the same issue,so I plugged it out and Im using today...looks ok.But the screen of temperature seems to rise up and down faster than before and iniciates at 190 degrees then go 200° and everything is fine.I need to worry?

i had some thermal runaway problems on mine and turned out it was just some dust buildup on the heat sink had some dust buildup on it. removed the dust and the thermal runaway problem stopped.

Thanks! Seems like a simple fix

Good video. I have the Ender 3 Pro. It was printing like a champ until I printed once with PETG at 240. Now it won't even run PLA at 200 without giving me thermal runaway halts every hour or so. Luckily I'm in the 30 day return window so I'm going to get another one at Microcenter. I'll keep your video in my back pocket for later though.

Thank you very much, you helped a lot If you need 3D models for a 3D printer, I will help you

I've had thermal runaway happen once on one of my two Ender 3 V2 printers. I had removed the sock from the heat block when this happened. I'd turned off the printer then, put the sock back on, and the problem had stopped right away. Thing is, I've removed that sock several times since, and I've not had thermal runaway, which is odd. I've also been printing 24/7 without incident.

Thanks for helping

Thank you for doing that video! I did changed the whole heating block (and the thermistor in the process) a few days ago and got this E1 error after only a couple of very short test prints. I'm even unable to heat the wire hot eeough to be able to remove it (it began after changing the wire from white to black. Could my printer be racist?? ;-) )... How would you address this specific issue? Many thanks!

My Ender 3v2 had tons of thermal runaways and I actually caught the nozzle temp while it was doing it drop from 215C to 210C then it threw the error. My thermistor resistance was 111 though. Getting a new one tomorrow so I hope that is it. If not I'll check the voltage and resistance where the hot wires go like you showed. Thank you!

Just had this error, fixed because I forgot to switch voltage level on the PSU from 240>115. Now at the proper level I've yet to reencounter the error.

4th replacement through micro center.. all thermal runaway codes within the first few hours of print.. what the hell is going on? This is my first experience.

did you have to add extra wire to the thermistor that was for the pro. thanks for a great video

In most cases the problem is a white powder residue on the thermistor. Just pull it out and clean the white powder off and blow out the hole, then reassemble. It's that easy. This happens a few weeks to few months after getting a new Ender 3. Just depends on how much you use it. Occam's razor, the simplest solution is usually the correct one.

I'm having trouble with " Nozzle or bed temperature thermistor error" and cannot for the life of me find a solution anywhere. I have the Ender 3 Max Neo and Creality takes soooo long to reply to emails with their support

gracias me srivio bastante

Quick question. I have the Ender 3 Max too and just recently had this issue. What I did notice is a sound before the thermal shutdown. It came from the print head and was like a popping/clicking noise.This is only happening on longer prints. Did you have a similar sound leading up to the error? Great video!

I re-seated the thermistor and it worked. No need to replace for me at least. I am wondering if the tension from 3-D printing pulls it out overtime.

Got my ender 3 max neo brand new like gotten yesterday and it had this problem out of the box, poor manufacturing. It rapidly cools like after a minute, I'm even lucky to have been able to print the starter boat

I have the same problem. it's a new machine, doing my first print i get the E1 error. I replaced the thermistor and the nozzle still only gets to 160-190 before giving me an error. Anyone know why this is happening? I even tried replacing the whole hotend with a new one and still only get up to 190 before i get the error

Thanks!!

They ran you through? :0

Unfortunately I can’t do the test.

mine gives the high temp alarm just a minute or 2 into a print. cleaned fan, did everything i can think of, even reset the firmware, and upgraded.

Hello! I would like to know the Electric Screw Driver name. Thanks! ♥

I had the same error, and shutdown. I found out that the cooling fan was set to 100% and caused hotend to cool rapidly. That was my fault not catching it in the slicing. Set it to 50% no more thermal shutdown

thanks

This scared the heck out of me I was siting nexed to my printer and it just started screaming at me

link or name to what you bought?

I replaced the entire hot end 3 times and nothing worked, i found that it also was an issue with my power supply. I fixed the issue and now it happens when my printer does any print and not just when heating it up

i got my 3d printer yesterday and i already got this problem

What’s the creality support email?

I just did this to mine and it is still doing the random error, im just lost

Look that ender 3 right in the eyes and u tell that FKR. "Print my damn dimentions, or I'll buy A JG maker pro, and make u print all its upgrades before I turn u into a Dab rosin press. (Distant voice) "preach!" ..... distant voice acknowledged 😌. U Belind

i did this and still had the problem in fact it happened even quicker! aaahhh!

you kinda look like the guy froms bobs burgers

he said ghetto, he deff lives in brentwood

Fuck iv had mine for two weeks and it's r ready do this shit have to say skip the ender 3 pro not worth it

You spent $329 on this?!?! Wtf.... I got an Ender 3v2 on sale for $229, which is arguably a much better model. Damn dude shop around and check prices, you just wasted a ton of money on an inferior printer, and I can't stand the screen on those ones, the one on the v2 is so nice.. You could have gotten a 3v2 and nearly fully upgraded it for what you spent...smh. Did you really need the extra printing area? I find the 220x220x250mm printing area on the v2 to be more than enough for me. And you're still using the included bowden tube too? That's the first thing you should upgrade right there. Also get some metal leveling knobs with better springs, the included plastic knobs and springs are trash and your bed will need to be leveled all the time, but at least you got a touch sensor lol, but that doesn't mean you don't have to level your bed anymore, you still do you just don't have to be as accurate, the sensor will mathematically compensate. You should also get an all metal extruder and get a dual z-axis upgrade, that will improve print accuracy and prevent the printer head from sagging as it moves farther away from the lead screw, if you had 2 lead screws, 1 on each side, then you wouldn't have to worry about it. Also get a Raspberry Pi with Octoprint and a cheap webcam, that's probably the single best upgrade you can get. On mine I've also upgraded the hotend to a Creality Spider which prints 5x faster and converted to direct drive.