I run a catch can too and after sending it out for analyses mine came back 50% combustion products ie: fuel 30% oil and 20% water. EGR "soot" is the biggest killer to these engines in conjunction with the stupid stock tuning using excessive pilot injection to keep the diesel rattle down, even more "soot". I have run a GDE egr delete tune with stock exhaust DPF and SCR on my 2016 from new and now have 195,000km with zero engine issues. I run 14,000km between oil changes and am maybe 1/2 a liter down then. I have sent my oil out for analysis every oil change, have not seen any bearing material or excessive wear metals in any of the samples. For even cleaner burning, "less soot". The use of centane booster as these are European diesels and the diesel over in Europe is a minimum 50 centane. In north America its 40 - 45.

I have a 2014 Ecodiesel. I'm 2nd owner have had original owners records. Everything done on time and by dealership. Then I bought it with 74k miles. In 2017 all services and recalls done on time. 2 things I do is sticktion modifier every 3 rd oil change and edt every fuel fill up. And I use 11qt every oil change. So far no blow by or oil used. So 3 years and almost 80k miles.

I just picked up (I'm the second owner) a 2014 EcoDiesel Jeep Grand Cherokee... been researching the engine... this thing is a little torque monster :)

Ive got a 2016 Chevy Colorado with the 2.8 Duramax. I like the truck and the diesel but it was annoying because of the constant regens so I deleted my egr as well and it only regens 2 times per tank istead of 3. Also having clean oil and clean filter as well. ive got 170,000km on it so far with no issues

I have a 200 provent catch can on my 23' Jeep Wrangler Ecodiesel. Love it and it works 💪

Thanks for the vids! I like your homestead content ...... I've been thinking about changing my oil filter every 5k and oil every 10k because I've been noticing the filter is quite plugged by 8k... I believe a clean filter allows oil pressure and flow. Which helps this picky engines... I think the oil is still good at 10k, but filter is plugged. No way I would go more than 10k between oil changes on this dirty engine. I think going 12-16k as the computer says is not good! Too much soot.

Caterpillar was the only engine manufacturer that pulled the input gasses for the EGR from after the after treatment system. According to Adept Ape, this was a major improvement.

Just about to buy a diesel Gladiator, very much appreciate this video. I’m running a diesel Liberty right now & a Cetane improver & fuel system conditioner seem to help the Liberty.

You could also add a Bypass Oil Filter. Amsoil makes a good one.

I have a 2016 ecodiesel. Currently 170,000km and she purrs along the hyw. Runs smooth and sounds great. No delete. I tow fully loaded tt at about 6000lbs. I get about 15ltr/100k towing. Don't over tow with the eco, stay well under max and go easy and it will tow much smoother than the hemi. Some things I do... #1; its not a hemi. Don't drive it like a hemi. #2; Change oil every 8-10k I use added friction modifier. #3 these are Hwy engines, not city, these are meant to work and drive, not a daily retired guy driving 25km a week and tow a fishing boat on weekends! #4; it's a diesel... clean oil, clean air, clean fuel. #5; it's not a hemi, don't drive it like a hemi. #6; clean map sensor and egr tube every 20k. #7 I have a custom tune (non delete) adding about 60hp and 60tq, very little turbo lag, lots of power, #7 warm it up, start driving slow for a few mins. #8 let engine idle for 30sec before shut off, up to 2min if working hard, let the oil get thru the turbos before shut off. #9 don't idle too much. #10 it's not a hemi..... ... I will do a catch can soon. (I have one on another vehicle) I get an average of 9.3l/100k as tracked on fuelly. I drive 100/105km/hr on hyw. I tow at 100km/hr max on hyw. I love the eco, smooth and steady. But it's a dirty engine which is why ppl delete egr. Expensive repairs, but so is every deisel.

The key to longevity in any diesel , is cooling the turbo before shutdown. Most people drive the 1/2 ton diesels like a gas engine. I drive mostly highway miles, with little idle time. I do use Hot Shots Secret products in the oil and fuel. Especially the Stiction Eliminator. Another problem that the Ecodiesel has is the filter in the block. If the filter is removed after the drain plug is put back in. The oil is still in the engine. Also the oil dipstick can give a false level indication. If you don't allow enough time for the oil to get to the pan. The 3rd generation engine has an 8 quart capacity, rather than 10 quarts. Even my dealer has overfilled the crankcase. I have not used my 2016 Ram 1500 Ecodiesel much in the past year. But it still has 158,000 miles. And is a smoother ride than our 2018 Ram 2500 Cummins beast. Much better in the snow too. The Cummins has too much torque.

That's something to think about, some very good points. I guess the proof is in pulling the tubes and seeing exactly what is happening, is oil passing, yes or no. To be honest I have not looked at mine yet but I "fixed" the other issue. Jacques Ferreira's tear down video was extremely revealing. Around 3:23 in his video you can see clearly carbonized oil blocking the passage to the main bearing. Of course FCA changing oil spec in 2015/2016 and oil capacity somewhere in 2014/2015 may also have be a contributing factor. I have a 2016 using Rotella T6 5W-40 at 10.5 quarts/10 liters with 120km/75k miles. In general with turbo diesels the consensus seems to be a catch can is a worthy investment.

What your saying makes sense. Good video

Good video looks like its working good job good idea after warrantys up until then I feel if I bought a eco diesel instead I would be putting MOTORKOTE in every oil change a 20 dollar bottle which is only 246ml would do 2 oil changes and dont use anything other than rotella T6 oil and like I do with my hemi id change the oil a lil after 50% or 175 hours my manual says 16000 km or 350 hours or 1 year I go by hours 175 is between 10500 km and 12000km but I do do a once a year 100hour short oil change which is like 6000-7000km I would do those things then I would'nt have to worry about my warranty and history has shown it never hurts to change your oil more often

Unfortunately Jacques Ferreira's video is not there anymore. Is there any copy ? My main bearing is done - so I am working to fix the engine and also fix the problem (unfortunately late :-( )

When you checked the oil you should pull the dipstick and then put it back in because it’s sealed at the top with an o ring not letting oil up the tube. I checked my oil before like that and thought it was low but you check again and it’ll go from min to max. Also that air intake is way worse than a stock intake

Hey, I know this is an older video but did you see any improvements in intake sound removing the air box and having a freestanding pod filter?

Have always enjoyed your ecodiesel videos (along with all the others around the homestead). I have a 2014 also with 180k; went to Green Diesel in Detroit about 2 yrs ago at 130k & got their hot tune (egr delete, but kept the DEF etc). Like you, bought it new & plan to keep it for as long as absolutely possible. Tow a 30' trailer (about 8k lbs) with no problem (3:92 rear end); trailer is currently in Florida :( Overall I'm happy with the truck, oil change every 16k, so far so good. Just curious about your 10 litre fill - I've found that with a filter change mine takes 11l which puts it right on the Max line on the dipstick - where it seems to stay until the next change. Interested to hear about the catch can. As an aside, the major issue I've had (at 125k) was a faulty tone ring - had never heard of this & it left me dead on the side of the QEW. Very long story short, took a week for dealer to analyze (with input finally from factory tech) and another two weeks to replace. Out of Canadian powertrain warranty so tab was $3,300. Wrote FCA complaining that the mileage equivalent to 125k kms put me onside the powertrain warranty - to my amazement they eventually reimbursed about 80% of the bill, as a 'goodwill gesture'. Keep those videos coming - looking forward to your 250k review.

So I purchased a 2019 Ram classic eco diesel. I live up in norther BC and at least 4 hours from a RAM dealers. I’m looking at ultimate reliability and longevity, From what I’m seeing is that I want an -oil catch can/ separator. An -EGR delete, -DEF delete. But would an an oil bypass filter be a good upgrade as well? As well all said and done what could I do now that won’t void my warranty? Really looking for advice on the best products and best way to keep my trucking at absolute optimal ability for the longest length of time.

Bought a brand new eco in 2018, changed the oil early after 2500 miles engine still had bearing failure at 9500 after just 7000 miles on the new oil. Friends truck followed the standard intervals and is on his second replacement engine at 50k miles.

Hi Gilbert, great playlist for the ECOD. Ive had my 2014 Limited ECO since new. Pretty much stock, checking out the Provent 200, there isnt much volume capacity at the bottom, what size of hose are you using at the bottom how often are you draining? I could see this filling up real fast with short trips in Vancouver just from the condensation. You have a new Sub!!

I've got catch can's on all my vehicles. I have been using them for years, I think all vehicles should have them.

I bought a new 2015 ED and as soon as I got it home I dropped the factory oil and used Lubrimoly toptec 4200 with a qt of lucas synthetic oil stabilizer. I deleted the truck at 40k miles because I couldn't keep it out of the dealership. Turns out the MAP sensor was getting coked up and needed to be cleaned about every 10k miles. I figured that out myself the dealership just kept flashing the computer. Anyhow, I got rid of the truck with 300k and it had NO blow-by at the oil fill cap. I never used a catch can. At 300k miles it was turning 28mpg on highway trips on 285/70's. I used a GDE off road tune. The truck was great. Get the delete. Waterpump at 100k miles, fuel filters at 30k, in tank fuel pump max 150k miles (130k would be better).

Enjoying the Ram vids! Thanks.

Oil bypass with cooling radiator ,oil catchcan with extra air filter. Delete too, Plus suspension adjustment ,shocks, pouleritan bushing, ..... remove the spare wheel, remove the front hook on the bumper, remove the tank DEF . rigid body stabilization , and a front stabilizer bar under the hood . Put tires without a cord, and 5-spoke light sports wheels. all this will lead to a reduction in the weight of the track .. plus the purity of the oil, plus the alignment of the center of gravity. saving 3-5 liters, plus there is no loss of power when turning. oil operating temperature drops, and coolant too.

Hey Eddy how are you doing, another great video! My question is what brand and where can I find the intake cone your running?

Have you changed your coolant yet? Where did you get it if you did? I'll be changing mine next year, apparently dealer prices are stupidly high

I've got some engine saving advice as a former Eco owner: Inspect and replace your coolant tank cap REGULARLY!

The ccv (what you call pcv) is not the Achilles heal of these trucks. The amount of crankcase vapor is minimal and easily burnt in combustion, not enough makes it past the rings to be an issue in oil contamination. The real threat to these engines is the stock pilot injection that creates a ton of unburnt fuel, leading to a high soot load in the engine. Your tune likely addresses this and is where you should really give props. What ecm tune are you running?

I have a 2014 also. The high pressure fuel pump failed last week. They found metal shavings in the fuel system. It’s going to cost $8000 to repair. Basically a totally new fuel system pumps, rails and injectors.

Question, I have about 100k and have had ZERO issues but for a while have had a small oil leak. It seems to come from the top of the motor, I’m wondering if this tube is leaking. Had it to the dealership and they conveniently can’t find anywhere it’s leaking from.

Hi sir, how are you? I enjoyed your videos and suggestions. But i need your help for the future. I have 2018 eco diesel with 120000kms and its out of warranty. I want longevity , reliability , power and economy at same time. But my main concern is resale. If i full delete then as a buyer prospective, may i resale easily or find any trouble in future? Or what u recommend for it ? Should i go with stage 1 or 2 ? Or just egr tunning ? Please help me sir

I got a 15 eco in November of 23. It had 106k miles and now has 116k. I already got the oil changed once and am halfway to the next change. I listened to the 6-8k the dashboard tells me. I unfortunately live in an emissions strict county so im not sure i can delete my ECO Tho id really love to. But if i did would i be too late to preserve my engine this far into its life?

If you clean your diffuser regularly then there will be no soot collection to fall off. It's very light when I do it at every oil change. No build up

Agreed the emissions system including the factory tune especially since the AEM government detune is killing these trucks. The EGR soot & Asphaltine (unburnt diesel hard particles) recirculator is clogging oiling ie lubrication passages. What else irks me is that it’s proven that the EGR is not required to meet emissions outputs but our out of control EPA overlords insist on it anyway. That style gov wants us on tax payer paid trains bicycles & battery cars anyway. The silver lining for the 14/15/16 models was that we got $3,150 for doing the AEM which smartly could be put toward a much cleaner aftermarket tune that also turns the EGR off. Green Diesel Engineering, HD diesel, & SKT sofa king tuned offer these at about $1k for both an engine and transmission tune. After which your oil starts to get dark around 8k miles instead of 2,500 miles. Miraculously the orange check engine light will no longer send you to the dealer service bay for piddly stuff. Mileage & power improve and you can get the benefit of a computer controlled engine brake. A great safety feature that is very reassuring when you tow in mountainous regions. I transport travel trailers & boats from Mfgrs to dealerships commercially with my 14 ED so I really benefit from this feature. After an aftermarket tune and with proper maintenance the ED turns into a reliable fuel efficient lil motor. Once you install an aftermarket tune you can also do an EGR COOLER delete with no codes and since EGR is turned off you no longer need it. The EGR cooler is also prone to leak internally sending coolant out your pipes which causes more problems or worse melts a hole in the plastic intake after which the coolant burns a super hot fire that torches the truck beyond what an extinguisher can handle. Thank you EPA. My first motor tuned at 30k went 371,000 miles before pushing a head gasket. Likely due to low coolant from a leaking EGR cooler which caused hot spots steam & pressure to push the gasket out. Head gaskets are a non cost effective fix IMO. I put a new motor in as it come with new turbo, high pressure fuel pump & injectors plus a 24 month unlimited mile warranty. None of which would I have gotten with new head gaskets. My 2nd motor has 359,000 miles tuned from day one. Personally no warranty concerns from using a tune despite that technically it can be used to void warranty if Ram could prove the tune caused the failure. I don’t know of any such cases in fact better motor life means less replacement motors for FCA. I’d rather invest in trouble free operation & longevity than hope to collect on a warranty before it expires anyway. Friend James who is also a transporter has 390,000 miles on his tuned ED. Don’t hate on this great lil motor or FCA if you’re having emissions driven issues hate on the EPA then invest in a tune. EDIT Motor made it 423,000 and cracked a head without any severe overheat. James has 452,000 on his still ticking. Ram1500diesel.com and car-part.com being some great resources in keeping her on the road cost effectively.

I just purchased a 2016 ram ecodiesel. I purchased a kit but have been dreading taking off the egr cooler. Can you explain the steps you took to just put on the one blocker plate.

Could you provide links to the catch can & EGR delete items.

My bmw m57 diesel oil would go black after 100km of driving. And i sold it at 430k kms. Original engine and tranny, it was tuned to 360hp and 470lbs from 200k kms

I have one of these diesels it’s a 2018 and I’ve always liked the ram HD with the Cummins. Heaving said this, I have always rejected the Ford power strokes because of the multiple problems that owners have to deal with. They have to bulletproof them in order for them to be reliable. The same has to be done to these ecodiesels, Enough is enough! Why should we have to be buying this garbage product? Let us not continue enabling these manufacturers to produce these garbage products that have to be made reliable by the end users. The only way to fix this problem is for us to boycott these manufacturers by not buying their trash. This I assure you will fix the problem from the root.

I’ve never had a diesel before and have had 5 different Ram 1500 Hemi’s. Do you know anything about the the new 3.0 diesels and would you buy one yourself

good video, for the oil catch can, why aren't people just venting them to atmosphere like a 5.9 Cummins? why feed it back into the engine at all with or without catch can

Question about the delete.... Did you change anything with the exhaust? Did you or do you have to physically remove egr components?

What would be wrong with just venting the crankcase to somewhere under the truck? To outside air?

How about if I simply put a plug between EGR and exhaust? Will I have a check engine light on?

Where can you get Catch Can in Toronto? Now I got it why mechanic said oil is so dirty last time even though I drove only 10,000 kms.

I have a 2011 Mercedes Gl350 likethe one you had andinstalled a catch can but that caused me to loose the engine : let me explain , live in Ottawa region and on a very cold day ( -40C ) an ice plug formed in the catch can piping and crank case pressure went to hell and the engine spilled all of it's oil after it busted the piping and engine locked up 7000Cad later replaced the engine and had to reconnect the dam PCV back , but what i'm doing is simply splitting the recommanded oil change intervals by half so changing oil every 7500Km instead of 15k

Looking at 1 today is a 2018 1500 4x4 6'3 bed with 42k miles for 31k. 1 owner, no recalls, I looked at the NHTSA. I dont tow anything i mostly drive no more than 5k a year in city no hwy since am retired never had a diesel before is this a good idea or go with gas. Am asking help with my decision

Can you get an oil catch can for a 2022 Ram Rebel 3.0L ecodiesel?

Mine seized at 62000km and I ran shell 5w40 t6 oil in it.

Im looking to buy a 2018 Ecodiesel with 6,000km should I delete it right away or wait for the warranty to expire and then delete it?

It's really sad we have to re-engineer our diesels to keep them alive. That being said, some oils literally "evaporate" out of the valve cover vent hose way easier than other higher quality oils. In the oil testing world, that is measured by the NOACK volitility test. Shell Rotella synthetic 5W-40 is in my opinion only marginally better than a conventional diesel oil. The main benefit is the cold weather/cold start oil flow of a 5W-40 is better than a 15W-40. If I was using Rotella syn, I might change it twice a year, but use the Rotella 15W-40 syn during the warmer months. Just an idea

Did you do all your recalls? They replace the faulty components

The EGR system is what the problem is. It’s pumping burnt gases into the engine and it turns into carbon.

Just bought a 2022 ram eco diesel what would u recommend

Use Redline Group V Ester Synthetic 15w-40 Diesel oil and you will prevent that from happening, Group V Ester Synthetic oils are well known for their cleaning properties, they will prevent the build up of sludge.

This is why with the egr on diesels when they make it completely illegal and enforced its time for Diesel engine manufacturers to begin installing oil bypass filtration systems that filter down to 2 microns. Then intakes manifolds should be designed to be easily removed and cleaned. Thirdly Amsoil yes it’s expensive but it’s worth it’s weight in gold as it helps keep your oil lines on your turbo from coking up and the oil ports in your engine from also coking and there bypass oil filtration system actually removes 90% of the soot.

UHM....I thought the EPA ran Green Diesel Out of business in terms of deleting the Ecodiesels? I had an ecodiesel that I COULD NOT KEEP OUT OF THE STEALERSHIP. I was pulling the MAP sensor about every 10k miles (oil changes at no more than 10k miles) OR it would go all faulty since the MAP would be plugged. At about 60k I installed GDE off road tune, no DEF, with a straight 3" exhaust. The oil stayed VERY clean even to 10k. I got rid of it with 250K miles on it and never an idiot light. Oh also swapped to redline oil in everything EXCEPT the engine. When I brought it home with 27 miles on it I switched to Lubrimolly toptech4200 and a qt of Lucas Synthetic oil stabilizer. I had NO BLOW BY. I never had. Let me repeat that I had NO BLOW BY.

What weight oil is in it?

I keep on getting the p20ee

Perfect example of what the emissions engineer forgot to tell the service department, and engine mechanical engineer….

if oil gallies are clogged, wouldnt we see a rise in pressure?

I heard also it's good to drain the diesel/ water separator in frequent time. any one has an idea about this?

Put the sensor that regulates the pressure before the oil catch can and that should clear the code.

I think a lot of people dont drive them enough. To get everything heated up properly. They dont get the maintenance done as they should. Running in the city for short distances is prob not a good idea for most diesel engines

Where is your location bud? I want to take my ecodiesel grand cherokee to your place so you can help me put that can on

why do you have an open air filter and not one in a box? You are losing HP and TQ by taking in hot air. Not sure why that change was made.

Whats with km and liters....imperial please 😮

Is it okay to dump the oil back into the motor?

It’s not the oil being pumped back into the EGR that causes your oil to get dirty. It’s the soot from the exhaust being reburnt that causes all the soot in your oil. If you want to keep that dirty soot out off your oil delete the EGR The vapours from the crank case mix with the soot from recycling some of the exhaust causes your intake to eventually plug up. If your able to use a block off plate. You are one lucky SOB.... Most EGR systems use a sensor to make sure exhaust gases are making it to the EGR. If the sensor sees a block it throws a code. I vent the crank case to atmosphere. No code. Man your right. It’s not good for the environment but manufacturing a new motor makes a lot more pollution.

1 Other thing, use a cetane boost. These motors are made to run on cetane 50+, not crappy 40 cetane USA diesel. If you do a UOA and you see silver, that's a potential problem, bearings have silver.

I have seen the main Barings there all so thin AF!! what are they 5/8th wade? they shod be like 7/8th they built this engine like a gas engine..

The oil catch can, i hear most of the time it will throw a engine light.

The first level check on a cold motor ecodiesel is false I think. If you put it back in and read it again it will read overfull in my experience.

DPF doesn’t do anything for soot in the motor but for sure EGR is awful for these

Use Archoil additive. kept my ecodiesel trouble free until i traded that pig for a 3.0 duramax.

Looks like your caught up in the politics of emissions control

My opinion is not doing these mods is worse for the enviroment. than the so called epa emissions crap. clean air equals clean burn. Not to mention you can get no smoke tunes so youre not blowing black smoke everywhere. better fuel mileage aswell. lets really think on it!

Why not add an oil bypass filter to help clean the oil? Catch can is a great addition. EGR was invented by someone who escaped from an insane asylum and approved by the same person.

Pollution preventative devices from what I understand. Seriously shorten the life of your engine, but none of the tree huggers measured how much it will cost in energy to replace that engine or the shipping all the people of the mining all the trucking the processing. If I do it our way and make it last for 1,000,000 km I’ve probably saved processing three or four trucks and save me a lot of money. Of course the manufactures of these vehicles will lose a lot of money. Thanks to me being thrifty.😂🎉 and milking every possible mile out of this very economical truck it gets better gas mileage than my car😊

Keep Heat down and 5w-40 oil

His channel is. I do cars

how you explain that "Vern Diesel" got 700K miles on his 2014 ecodiesel already ?

I did this to my 2016 F150 and get so much oil that would have gone back into the PCV valve.

Your math didn't make sense to me. Catch can had 100ml and your dipstick read less than min or down about 1 litre (more or less).

240000kms and you have worn piston rings causing so much blow by.

TLDR: how to void your warranty

That is the most ghetto catch can install I've ever seen, lol

120k miles have had to install new turbo and now new water pump plus injector and belts

THROWSOMENYLONOVERTHEDIRTYCONEHEAD...

Use Schaeffer oil!

its good to do this but youre analogy is strange.

let me tell you what you need to do to ensure you never have those problems. Take your ecodiesel to the dodge dealership and trade it in for a 2500 cummins. Problem solved.

Oooops , it’s below the minimum line. 😆

Nope... It is the oil flow that is insufficient... the pressure is correct but there is not enough flow. Upgrading the pump is not enough because the main oil distribution channels are too small. Basically there is nothing to do... don't waste your time and save your money!

Delete delete delete. The only answer.

No delete in USA anymore ... well, at least legally.

PUMPUPDVOLUME...

You shouldn’t have to modify a $80,000 vehicle!

Ok dude you completely lost any legitimacy when you believe the EGR pumps spent exhaust into the intake manifold. Bro, why would that help emissions? That would make combustion next to impossible. Or maybe you can use that good ol brain to remember that “eco diesel” is short hand for Small displacement diesel with a turbocharger to boost performance to an acceptable level (turbos not having the same power sapping effect that super chargers do since they work on simply the exhaust pressure leaving your engine to spool up a turbine which, in a completely unconnected pipe creates a corresponding level of pressure in the intake manifold (forced induction) to greatly increase the power levels and the fuel/air ratio improving efficiency and allowing the fuel’s explosive force be much more potent as a passive intake depends on simply passive suction from the combustion already occurring. The EGR is simply a device that’s purpose is to cool down that extremely hot exhaust as to help with turbo temps, oil temps, and EGT (exhaust gas temp) which if too high creates a positive feedback loop where the turbo gets hotter and hotter and therefore adding tons of new heat in the oil and in the coolant. That’s why people who don’t just decide to cut cables to parts in their engine bay, buy aftermarket EGR’s that eliminate the terrible ones in the ram/jeep ecodiesel. Also by doing any aftermarket upgrade that increases air flow of exhaust from the catalytic converters, the air intake filter or CAI attachment, a better intercooler with proper hot and cold pipe exchanges between the turbo and the intercooler. Even the Afe oil pan which has an extra 2 quarts of oil volume, has an fully aluminum build with a ribbed appearance that servers as a minor heat exchanger for the oil in addition to all else. What you did is first removed the device that keeps the the turbo from melting, but you then took out the piping that spools the turbo in the first place. Congrats you literally made it more reliable by butchering it. You would have known all of this in a few google and wiki searches, but you know what they say measure twice, cut once. Too bad you didn’t take it to heart.