Thank you for lending your knowledge. Much Appreciated Sir.

Thank you, I have been debating build or buy... for our new home. I think you helped me realize I can do this and have given me some important aspects of design, I will certainly be putting to use.

Water is the best heat (cold) bank, better than stone. A small indoor salt pool will keep those living in cold climates warm, clean, and happy for many hours after the fire has gone out. In warm climates, a cool pool of water set in stone is delightful. I'm all for a big tank of water you can sit in.

Best education on the matter - hands down. Love the format. It's "to the point". Thank you!

I must have watched a dozen of these videos before I found your channel. You explain this all extremely well and very succinctly. Thank you!

Now I know where to get parts when needed. Thanks

Hey just like to thank you for all your videos. Helped us build are own boiler, made a video kind of showing it off on my channel. My dad is using the fan system on his and seen noticeable gains in how fast the water heats up. It is night and day compared to the draft door we used to use.

dude nice video... almost though i was at the training center nice

Oh man, so smart and informative! Big thanks

I couldn't agree more with the to large of water storage part. I have 500 gallons and what a waste!!!! He nailed that part! Also have pipes through the chamber of exhaust for max extraction of heat. See Turboburn from Spokane, wa. good design

I liked it and I think your drawing was good.

We made a water furnace using 48 inch water jacket from natural gas pipeline 3/4 inch thick,42 inch firebox also from ng pipeline 3/4 inch thick which had dome shaped end welded on it,was used for testing new pipeline,door is 1/4 inch double wall with 11/2 inch spacing for water,the stove is 50 inch deep,chimney is situated on top slightly closer to front,I made a baffle like you described to direct flame around and to back of stove. I made the water outlet near the top of stove at the back where the flame curves around to enter baffle,which makes for very hot water exiting. My draft fan blows into a 4 inch pipe near bottom of stove,has 3/8 inch holes drilled in it and is full length. I have a small squirrel cage fan blowing into the pipe which has a solenoid operated door on it which opens when aquastat powers the fan. I made a grate out of old field cultivator shanks and can pull ashes out at front of stove without disturbing fire,the solenoid operated damper on fan prevents runaway fire on windy day.This is the 27th winter of use and works well at heating 3000sq.ft. (Including garage)and domestic hot water.I insulated stove with 4 inch roxul covered with aluminum flashing.It burns a lot of wood compared to a gasifier but my biggest expense was the rad,aquastat,and fan,we got the gasline pipe and test domes free.I could send you pics if interested.

I find burning homemade charcoal against a momotube boiler safe and easiest to build and maintain. I run both piston- steam and turbine-steam engines turning a whole house. Steam technology is a well proven.

Big time thx u 👍 4 this video!!!

I built my boiler out of a 250 gallon LP tank. I cut one end off and put in a 40 gallon tank for a burn chamber. I have about 200 gallons of hot water in my boiler tank. Chimney out the top. For my chimney port I used a 6" grain auger tube. It is galvanized inside and out and is 1/8" thick steel. I built 1/2" copper coils in my system. I don't pump boiler water into my system. I pump my system water through the copper coils in the boiler water. Thoughts on the advantage/disadvantage of using a transfer coil? Great video. Definitely seems like a training video. Will order from you just for making this video.

Ton of info. 👍. Today u almost need to myo as rules the manufacturers have to follow = big $. Kiss is a rule to follow. Do u sell the chambers etc or just the end products ?

Oh, to add to my question below, we are in plant climate zone 6b (Central Tennessee). Our house is being built in the midst of a white oak hardwood forest (we own 120 acres of woods), and we have a sawmill, we have tractor, wood hauling trailers, etc. So although the house will be big, we have lots of seasoned oak and it’s free other than labor, and we have the byproducts of the sawmill.

what do you meant by the chimney thing ? what attach to chimney ?

7:00 water volume. I'm hoping to have an outdoor wood boiler (actually indoor in a shed) for next season. Now where I live we can have freezing nights and warm 70's days so the heat load is not constant. My plan was to have a large water reservoir (3x 500 gallon propane tanks) that's well insulated (Will wrap with R20-R30 insulation) and separate from the boiler so you can bypass it with valves for fast recovery, or add it back in to absorb the heat if the weather warms up. Then the warm water will be available the next night.

Great video Jeff. I want to build a broiler out of heavy wall pipe. The fire box will be 36” with the wall thickness of 1/2”. I’m just wondering if the wall thickness it to much and if I will have trouble transferring the heat to the outer water jacket?

I’ve been installing commercial boilers for 30 years. Thinking about building a coal outdoor boiler using a 275 standard oil tank and building a Masonary dry firebox . I see most outdoor boiler designs using a wet design and fires on wet steel fire box most with out any refractory. Makes for a Smokey fire. Have you seen any Masonary dry box boilers using your combustion fans and doors ? Thoughts ? Your tank size and surface area suggestions are noted

I love your video. Are these designs built to ASME

What would be the minimum water volume just to heat 1 water to air heat exchanger very close by? Perhaps 20 feet of pipe. Can 30 gallons be sufficient? I'm planning multiple water tubes plus small amount of fire tubes In the main boiler pipe with double pass horizontal exhaust and exhaust will be preheating feed water tank that also has return line, all together as a vertical exhaust pipe before entering atmosphere. This wouldn't be a 24/7 boiler, just to get heat up quick in a kiln for part of a day. Some water tubes will be direct fire contact. Other water tubes will be #1 exhaust pass. And water tubes feed into fire tube 12" pipe. The steam feeds either to heat exchanger directly, or divert to preheating feed water storage tank.

Welding a baffle was the reason I came across this video. I was a bit concerned about choking the fire off? But I guess coming from you with no concern, I feel more confident., and have another project. Now....with all things being equal, lets say I were burning 14 B-cord per season, how much do you feel a baffle would help? and assuming a barrel heat exchanger 4' long x 3' wide with 6 x 4" tubes across top, how much clearance would you recommend under the tubes? Also, regarding baffle depth, how far towards the front do you feel it's necessary to carry the baffle? BTW, thanks for all of your great video's.

I was think about taking 2 275 gallon fuel tanks butted up side by side. Using 1 as a water storage and the other as a burn chamber. I would cut out a circle big enough to insert a 55 gallon drum. The drum would be my actual burn chamber with water on all sides. I want to be able to burn wood on occasion but mainly waste motor oil. I have access to thousands of gallons of clean waste oil every year. I want to put a heat exchanger in my existing down draft furnace in my house (2100 sf) and also a heat exchanger in my shop (1000 sf). Is there anything that I should do different because of the waste oil? Thanks I learned a lot from your videos!

Very roughly speaking, how big a unit would be needed for a 9,000 square foot courtyard home (shape of a “U”) plus a 1500 square foot rectangle workshop 100 feet away from the home? We’re planning on using an in-floor radiant heat system instead of a forced-air furnace (for both buildings). Thanks for your video series!

Just think of all the $$ you save on heat once you build one. Fifteen years of not paying for heat and it's still going.

You basically described a vintage HEATMORE.

Would copper piping coiled on the outside of the firebox have the same effect vs a free flowing water jacket?

Dear Alternative Heating & Supplies, I have a Pengiun 88 woodburner with a top oven, & and an isolated underfloor water heating system covering about 120sqm. Would I be able to connect the two if I covert the oven to store the water? I hope this makes sense. Thank you. S

What are thoughts on looping copper pipe back and forth rather than a tank

hi jeff, i have a green house which i have h.w. solar coils now in place with 270 gal storage capacity. i do need to build a h.w. heater to make up for cold cloudy days. the greenhouse is 1020 sf total inside area. it requires 27132 btu's total. the goal is to maintain around 60 deg. f inside temp. so, a small wood fired would work. i like the barrel in barrel design. i am a welder, pipe fitter and fabricator w/ a small shop. the double wall is impressive although i would prefer making a soft copper tube coiled heat jacket installed inside around the outside of the primary burn chamber. my piping is 1/2" supply and return. do you sell the parts such as door, barrels, flue to support this type design? thanks,

What do you think about a burn chamber with water pipes to heat water then that water being pumped into a buffer tank instead of your water tank being on top or having burn chamber in center?

Is it best to use a propeller or progressive cavity pump

I wonder if you could tell me your thoughts on a ballast tank. My Woodmaster 4400 has a difficult time burning through the night. If it’s in the 20s or below we wake up to a cold house even if I’ve stocked with good seasoned hardwood the night before. The ground lines were replaced last year with pecks into a conduit to illuminate ground water issues. I cannot justify the cost of thermapex and the wrapped stuff was gathering ground water. I was planning to add a 500 gallon ballast tank in hopes of eliminating this issue. I understand it will require more burn time to heat the ballast tank but had hoped to up my efficiency as I won’t have as much wasted material smoldering and short cycling. Your input would be greatly appreciated.

I have to point out that you call the water circulator a pump. These are impellers so it means they are circulators. We don't want people to confuse the two and go out and buy a pump which far more expensive to run. Second, you want the circulator to be on the return side going back to the wood boiler. Too many times I have seen circulators fail prematurely because they put them on the hot side supplying water to the house from the boiler. There is a reason the vast majority of heating systems have them on the return side. That is why. The amount of water is based on preference. Water is a better mass than the couch style masses people use. 500 gallons of water can heat a 1500 square feet all day in cold weather with only one 2 hour burn per day. That's with proper insulation.

More water = thermal mass = longer lasting heat. The only issue with efficiency is how you build your burn chamber[s] No one wants to tend a fire every 2 hours around the clock. The most efficient systems use 600-2000 gallons or more in VERY well insulated tanks but they are able to achieve gasification and a complete burn from their wood at temperatures high enough to melt steel. So you are left figuring out how to gassify wood as fast as possible and extract as much heat from the exhaust as possible. This absolutely means running a blower, but it also means you have to run the exhaust through the water as long as possible. But this is where people run into creosote issues. Creosote is caused by unburnt fuels. One of the biggest causes of unburnt fuels is burning wet wood. Steam attaches to other gasses and passes them quickly through the system until it finds a surface cool enough to attach to, leaving deposits behind, before eventually leaving the system and forming back into liquid. This is why people insulate their chimneys with double wall, triple wall, they do everything they can to trap the heat and send it right up into the air where it does nothing but waste energy. So they put dampers in the pipe to try keeping a warm fire that lasts all night, but this only compounds the problem! Many people actually believe in putting wet wood on the fire and damping down the flu for the night.. This is sheer madness! I see creosote in your chimney as being akin to diesel trucks spewing black smoke everywhere. You think you're going fast but you're really just fouling it up for yourself and everyone else. So many problems, and little to no solutions. There are a few manufacturers on the market that almost have the perfect setup, and many are from countries with much colder climates. I wish I had the solution. But the more I research the more problems I find. But the search continues. Thanks for sharing. Maybe one day I will be able to do the same.

Why have the pump on the hot supply not the cold return? Cooler water would have less wear on the pump. Not prone to overheating.

How do you know when the pump isn't working?

how do you get a pile of wood to burn for 12 or 24 hours? how much wood does it take? and is that with a fan on all the time?

I don’t know why you put the pump where the water is hotter. It’s a better solution to place the pump to push in the boiler. Mainly if you want to avoid cavitation problem. Can you explain me your point of view because i don’t understand it’s the lowest point of the system at the exit of the boiler!

Would you be opposed to posting a video about the electrical side off the outdoor wood boiler? I need to re-wire one and there's not much help out there. I'm replacing the ranco temp control and wiring.

I'm definitely not an expert but it seems that a fan, although making great heat, would also be blowing your wood right up the chimney. FAST!

How much do they cost?

I wish u could figure out how to combine the wood boiler with a pizza oven 🧐

Why so many commercials?

flow on the top return on the button otherwise okay

Wouldn’t think a professional would not know that mild steel is pronounced mild, not milled.

Sounds like a guy could buy a junk wore out unit and buy the kits you sell to rebuild the used unit and save alot of money rather than building something from scratch

why are you calling it milled steel when it is mild steel. pronounced like wild.

There is nothing wrong with your diagram. I laughed when you said "WIMMEN ARE THE COMPLAINERS" regarding fan hum. Nice.

Its not DIY if you buy a kit.