Thanks for the video. My new direct drive should be in tomorrow. I will be re-watching this video over again.

This helped so much, Thank you for making this!!

Did same direct drive upgrade on my ender3v2 bit over year back, huge increase in reliable prints and quality, have a very high success rate. Also added extra z rail(2 motor kit found online), auto leveling, new springs and knobs on bed. Currently can print Nylonx speeds up to 140mm with good prints best print speeds seem to be around 125mm. I also added the surround cover to keep heat study around unit. I put rolls of filament I will print either into a Sunlu filament heater and also inside the surround area with the bed plate temp set for 98C 6 hours before I start prints with filaments which are sensitive to moisture. Shorter filament heat times are used when only using PLA. I am having great success with NylonX using 72C bed temp with fan off, and nozzle temp at 259C. Took awhile on settings but have found increasing retraction speeds and amounts plus running slightly faster print speeds after base layers finished give best results. I use mixture of glue stick and Aussie 2x hairspray on the default-build plate which came with the unit and 90% of time hardened steel .06 nozzles. Very happy with this upgrade to unit purchased few years back. My next unit will be the Bambu Labs at some future point, this unit will primarily be used with .06 and .08 hardened tips keeping print speeds towards top end and will serve as second printer for small production runs. This was a great project to really learn fundamentals of 3d printing at much higher level while getting massive improvements in prints. The auto leveling upgrade must have, even though I did great job of leveling plate manually in past, just speeds things up and gives repeatable results. The direct drive is fantastic upgrade highly recommended for minimal investment, but make sure you add the second z axis for rigidity and get it installed perfectly level along with autolevel feature on older Ender3Vs units. The enclosure while cheap serves as great way to remove moisture pre-run from filaments having bed temp sitting at 98C for several hours with filaments sitting in the enclosure.

Very nice upgrade! I'll have to try that with one of my Ender 3 V2's after you do a lot of printing with it (and see the results). Parts seem cheap. Thank you for the instructional video.

Just print a mount for your existing extruder and motor. No real need to buy a whole new carriage. 🤔

Great topic, thanks 👍 will use it to mod my kobra 2 anycubic

You should put the bltouch/crtouch bracket in front of the fan shroud otherwise it adds distance between the heat break and fan and therefore won't run as efficiently and thermal runaway might occur.

Thank you so much for this! I thought I had to install a new version of Marlin to support the direct drive. Looks like I don't! 👍

Your cube could use some pressure advance tuning, those corners are bulging!

is there a way to bypass the z step stopper thing? or any 3d printable mount that u know of?

nice video. i'm having issues with installing my cr touch to my bigtree skr mini e3 v3.0. my cr touch is not leveling correctly. got any tips??

Did you already try input shaping? What speeds do you print at?

Would this extruder work with a v6 hotend? I accidentally got the direct driver version of the hot end and figured I would try out direct drive but can’t find good info on what DD to get for the v6

the 2pin connector on my old extruder is yellow and blue im assuming this one the red and black 2 pin connector goes in that spot since its there

My new direct drive doesn't have the yellow and blue wires with the 2-pin connector. Is it an upgrade/new design?

Hot melt glue will release if you put isopropyl alcohol on it. Like Magic.

I swapped out mine and changed retraction, but it so spotty. I even lowered retraction to .2 and it’s still spotty. Any suggestions?

I recently did most of the noctua and fang upgrades from your other video. Now I'm contemplating a direct drive. Does it work with noctua fans?

This is not a true direct drive system because there is still a Bowden tube, even though it is short. I ran my ender 3 with this setup for a while but eventually my extruder wore out and wouldn't grip the filament well and was grinding the filament too easily. I switched to the sprite direct drive extruder and it works alot better.

I put this mod on my v2 neo

What are those snazzy purple rail inserts? Is the a dress up kit out there or an stl file to print them?

Got mine last night off amazon for 30 bucks. 🎉

where did you get the part to mount the z step thingy on? Mine didnt come with one :(

great job still, what a mess man u destroy those sokets simply u just need to grab both side of sokets and push inside for take it out

I think his favorite color is purple

With much less $$ you could just buy a cheap dual drive clone and a pancake Stepper motor. Print yourself a afterburner, if you believe this is a good mod, de Voron afterburner will blow your mind in every aspect! If you wanted that mod you could just buy the modified eplate cheaper. I got one here, never used it and never will , it's very heavy, not user friendly, and it uses those bad original extruders. Another tip: you don't need to remove the gantry to slide off the eplate, just get the eccentric wheel loose and it will come out, dont need to remove the idler either. Kinda curious on what you have going on in the electronics under the printer ...

How are you liking this vs the bowden tube setup?

After installing and trying to auto home it failed you think you have any idea why?

Alot of weight on a single z axis machine (inertia )

I did not see estep calibration is this not required?

Mustang updates?

09:14 that poor extruder motor... just sitting there.. wishing you would have used her to just print the piece to put the motor in and she could still be in use😢😅

A bit of editing would make it a even better video

Kida... ABSOLUTE NO.

Orrrr you can 3d print a piece and just move the extruder motor alll for FREE?!

This is a bad idea since you are increasing a lot the weight on the X gantry. You need dual Z configuration for this.

Why are u yelling at me!

cool video, do you have any interest in collab?

Deleting comments??? Are you making money on selling people stuff they already have and hence don't have to pay $40 for?

its not direct drive when its still using the belt, its still belt driven , thats the entire difference between direct drives and belt drives lol