Ever notice old zero numbered Stihl chainsaws lasted forever, even still going. About 20 years ago instead of recommending and including a 40:1 mix with the saw/ manual they suddenly went to a 50:1 mix ratio and included it with the saw and manual. Within a few years ( I am a former certified climbing arborist/ tree service owner over 20 years) everyone started saying aww man these new saws just ain't built like the old ones, wear out fast. Same metallurgy, same oils( I've researched) and what you need to know is that especially if you are heavy cutting, day in and day out, disregard the manual and mix your gas( non ethanol, hi test if available) at 36:1-40:1 whoopety Doo it'll smoke a little bit, but when you run out of gas and it leans way out ( scorching piston and cylinder) on 50:1 you are literally losing thousandths of an inch throughout the saw. At a richer mix this isn't nearly the issue, over time you won't develop piston skirt slap, low compression issues ( in fact it raises cylinder pressure) and the saw will last forever with even a modicum of maintenance. Moral of the story. Spark plugs are cheap. Saws are not. Thank me by passing the knowledge on. Along with the witness of the salvation of Jesus Christ.

I too have a way of reducing the work of pushing the saw… I make my son do it as I supervise!!!

Good tip 👌 👍

Thanks! I actually just thought to get this thing after I received a cheap vertical guide that I sent back because it is not square at all and not easy to install securely. Anyway, will go chainsaw milling tomorrow using my alaskan like mill. Greetings from Germany 🙋🏻‍♀️Anna

I’ve been running a new 462 with a square grind and light bar for a few months. Such a lightweight setup for the power. Extremely happy with what I got for the money spent on it. Did Cody get a 462? I knew he was in the market again but didn’t catch what he’s been running lately,

@@lukes.2014 I think he still runs a 461 among other saws. But I couldn’t find one in the store. So I settled for a 462 with one of those chips. We’ll see if it’s as reliable as older tech.

I have a 462 I love it. I added some bucking spikes and I have a few different lightweight bars 20, 28, 32. I've been thinking about getting a bark box muffler for it as well.

@@forreststrong797 that’s good to hear. I’m always hesitant about adding complexity but your feedback is reassuring. What brand bucking spikes did you use? And do you use one of those full wrap around handles?

@@forreststrong797 also how does it run a 20 inch bar. That thing must chew through anything

Buckin billy has a great channel

Gotta go look into this I got a couple chains that pull

I'm 4th gen logger. This is true. If you file too much it will pull and kick like a mule. The best sharpener I've seen is the orange one made from aluminium with a carbide sharpener that you can use for either side of teeth and not have to adjust it again. I believe my father got from Northern Hydraulics catalog. It was around $80 I believe. This was years ago. Most have u adjust it for each side. Getting the rakes right is the key. We used to precut and mark out logs for log homes or whatever ppl wanted. We used a bandsaw mill after the old Frick with a 671 detroit diesel and solid round blade was just too much to run and not portable. But we could saw 50 feet on it no problem. It's hard to find ppl that can hammer those bog blades and sharpen them. It's a dying art. If you're going to do alot of sawing a wood mizer is tge way to go. You can even get extensions to saw long logs. It was so nice to take to job and saw what we needed and have alot less mess and clean up. Idk who this Billy is but I'll check him out. Ginger Billy is really funny, I can guarntee that. Check out ginger billy. He's a redneck comedian. He's not vulgar and still very funny.

@@jasonchristopher2977 buckin billy is a animal!

@@jasonchristopher2977 oh you definitely lik bucking billy ray ! Old school feller an climber. Runs husky but he loves his old macs who still runs those ol school saws lol he got alot of them hot roded out but still a logging saws . Any way definitely Check him out if your into cutting idk how you won't find content on his channel.

that is a good tip.

Yeah I would definitely let it idle for a minute or two, and hit the throttle a couple times in between.

Hell, it'll give his grandkids the fizz when they're old geezers.

I think you can hear rain in the background. Could be a fan though I guess.

@sgtish: you're doing it right, a chainsaw needs to be at full throttle before being brought in contact with wood. If it isn't at full throttle, you will risk that the saw will be pulled away from you or pushed towards you, and cause you to lose balance and control.

opposite: they want the hardest base so as to NOT absorb the blow. I guess it is that this maximizes the impact of each hammer blow into the working material. There is a ball bearing test where the bounce it to test the rebound. The higher the bounce the better.

Marking is a good idea, but on a saw that's been cutting recently, the file removes the sap and pitch deposits, leaving the tooth clean. If one is sharpening correctly, there will also be a tiny burr on the outside of the sharpened teeth, easily found with the fingertips. Cody doesn't talk about filing the rakers in this vid, but they are just as important. If they are left too tall, the teeth cannot bite into the wood. Rakers are especially important when ripping. If not at the correct height, they will not push the cut material out properly and the saw will jam in the cut.

I'm afraid not, East Coast guys bar is not long enough,

I was wondering the same thing. I’ve been hobby milling with a Alaskan mill and watching videos makes it look easy. Most cuts take me atleast 16 minutes a pass.

I’ve heard many folks talk/demonstrate how they sharpen. You’re only the second person I’ve heard say to file from outside the tooth toward the inside. I’m definitely interested in hearing more. Heck maybe I should just sharpen two chains one each way and see for myself.

@@cowcatcher9186 please try it out or we can ask Mr Wranglerstar to try it. push the file into the tooth. afterwords, run your finger on the outside of the toot/cutting edge. you will feel the difference. the cutting edge will be much sharper. i also use a file guide to make sure all the angles are correct and constistent. im sorry to say i dont have the time to make a video demonstration. the best of luck.

Wranglerstar maybe do a video on it and see what cuts faster.

It's not available for retail yet, I've been talking with Motion Pro trying to get my hands on this system too. They gentleman I spoke with blamed C0V!D for the delays in certification. If you contact them; allegedly they will add you to a email list when it's available