we need more people like him in the world.. Excellent presentation and very informative. Packed with good information. Thanks for posting..

Whilst I was in college, I spent two summers working highway overpass re-construction, in my hometown of Syracuse NY, during the mid-80’s. My friend was the son of the Construction company owner, and was the “sand blasting crew” leader. We worked nights, 6nights/wk, 12hour shifts, from 6pm to 6am, on actual in-use highways - the bridge decks were 3-4 lanes wide - the approach was to close off 1/2 the bridge deck, having a 4’ Jersey barrier separating the work zone from the open/live traffic lanes… lanes in which there would be 18 wheelers driving 75mph, literally 3ft away from where you are blasting, causing the bridge deck to vibrate and noticeably move/shake nonstop. The industrial strength sandblasting rig itself was an 18wheeler set-up, consisting of a flatbed trailer with a huge Iingersol-Rand Diesel engine attached to a giant compressor that fed a huge silo-like pressure vessel. Prior to getting to the job site, we’d spend a hour fueling the Tractor and the Diesel compressor rig, as well as checking out the piping, valves, O-rings, hoses, graphite nozzles, protective hoods, (personal air supply feeds, the helmet/hood communications gear, plexiglass shields that protect the glass facial guards in the hood/helmet setup, etc) plus we had to inspect the pressure vessel and clean out any moisture and sand clumps that accumulated. We’d then go up into the sand silo itself to inspect the sand-drop valves (this was a bit nerve racking in that you’d respirator-up and climb the tower ladder to enter the sand silos, rig up into a harness, well aware that you may have to venture out into the elevated sand field to break loose clogs of wet sand that are blocking the chute. Once the pressure vessel was full, you’d exit out of the silos, insure the vessel is sealed and locked, then rock-roll to that nights job site. From early May to EOM July (Football practices commenced in early August), 72hrs/wk@$40/hr, for 11 wks, earned in excess of $30k each summer, for what was truly bat-shit crazy, back-braking and mind-numbing physical labor of the worst kind, yet it was also cool in that at age 18-19, you were pretty much trusted to take on some very critical/dangerous work…

If you want to get every ounce of goodness out of your media, find or build about a 2' - 3' tall stand for your sifting element (whatever it may be). I use a stand from a long-dead table saw. When you sift your media you can actually separate the broken down media from the still-useful media by positioning a regular box fan to blow the lightweight stuff aside as it drops to the ground. It's a little tricky to get it right but, once you've got it, it will help keep your media at a far more effective level than just recycling the ruined media along with the stuff that's still good. And those cheap blue poly tarps HF used to give away are the perfect, no heartburn tarp for catching blast media.

For anyone that is into DIY and wants some real rust removing power, nothing beats one of these pressurized pot blasters. This video showed how useful they are and the modifications he made. Brilliant ! Cheap to buy and easy to use.

This was LITERALLY MY Shop Teacher Guy!! Mind blown, makes sense. Great to 'see' you again Sir.

Well... There we go, Sir! You've earned my sub/follow/whatever. This was great stuff and you remind me of MY old shop teacher, some 35 years ago. I held an awesome friendship with Mr. Tom Butler until he passed from COVID complications at the ripe age of 96. You have that same camber and flow he did... It made him special. You never felt like Tom was talking down to you as he explained things. It's a lost art of teaching and storytelling, being able to pass knowledge by words without droning. Well done!

If you blast with glass WEAR A GOOD RESPIRATOR RESPIRATOR RESPIRATOR RESPIRATOR RESPIRATOR RRESPIRATOR because once the glass particles is in your lungs it is there to stay forever.

we need more people like him in the world.

Glad I found your channel. I had a shop/mechanic class in high school. My teacher had a wealth of knowledge and could have made more money but he loved to help others .

This is one of the best videos I have seen on you tube. A lot of good information with the feeling he has done this hands on. Great!

Your clogs are caused by moisture at the mixing point. I owned a sandblasting business for years. I used an industrial compressor, and a 500lb pot. It was basically the same in operation as your little one. My setup went through 500 lbs and 5 gallon of gas/ hr. When the compressor air heated up the moisture clogging quit happening. Also humid days were more difficult with clogging.

This is an excellent job of explaining this device to a clueless newbie like me !! They should sponsor you !! Very thorough and i will take ALL your advice up. Thanks again !!

We used wet blasting years ago at the Corvette Bodyshop I worked at during the huge GM peeling paint days. It was so much easier to deal with the mess in our bays that way. We were stripping dozens of cars and trucks weekly to deal with that waterborn primer issue.

You, sir, are a crack! We do not have 'shop' in Australian schools, mores the pity. But if there was, half a century ago, I would have appreciated your fast paced, informative and humorous approach. As I do now.

Fantastic video! Thanks for all your efforts and showing the upgrades/mods you did.

This is a really good tutorial, with lots of tips and tricks. Thank you for sharing.

Thanks, great overview for DIY to keep the cost down, really good tutorial

Thanks. Wish I had checked out blasting earlier for a project I did. But now I know more.

Excellent presentation and very informative. Packed with good information. Thanks for posting.

Great video, very informative. I restore vintage tools and other metal objects. i’ve been looking for a sandblaster for a while, and I believe I’m going to go with something that’s similar to your set up. Thanks for all that info...

Excellent video. You got a new subscriber because of it. This is the exact video I needed to change my blasting ideas into blasting reality. Kudos

Wet blasting, also known as vapour blasting gives metal more of a satin/shiny kind of finish depending on the grit, great post processing after sand blasting and gives a beautiful finish. We use it on the cast aluminium car/bike parts after repairs and welding, the parts come out like brand new from the manufacturer, very desirable surface finish by a lot of customers.

I’ve used brass ball valves as you have instead of the deadman. They do wear out and leak due to the abrasive material going thru it under pressure particularly if you don’t open it fully. Don’t use it to regulate your flow. Still better than the deadman. Enjoy your videos, can’t wait to see the finished truck.

I bought mine off marketplace used for 30.00 and you give me hope as I want to sandblast some tire rims and powder coat them

Yesterday I wanted to blast two brake calipers prior to overhauling and painting, we have a small pot blaster which I had never used. I hooked up the small pot to the workshop compressor and tried it running at 80psi, my nozzle is an airline fitting, say 4 millimeters, and the results were perfectly acceptable on small parts.

Super helpful descriptions. Thank you.

Well that was a blast to watch.

Can't wait for part 2!

Great and informative presentation!

I have been running the bigger 20 gallon model, for two years. I ran 3000 lbs of 50/100 Enviro Grit glass thru it in one summer. I'm blasting log buildings on a big property by myself. Word of advice, upgrade to Princess Auto 6320005 gun and hose that fits it. And "Always" make sure the hose is straight as possible off the pot. At 7:26 the "crazy device", Do Not use brass to replace. I had that part and the hose both fail at the same time and I got blasted in the foot. My boot saved me but was destroyed, and it blew about 20 lbs of media 30 ft out the bottom before I could shut off the air. Granted I use a rented 185 CFM diesel air compressor @60 PSi. Your setup or mine, a blow out can cause life altering injuries. Best way to stop clogs is always close bottom mixing valve when filling. Fill and pressurize tank then slowly open bottom mixing valve while opening blasting tip. Stay Safe Eh!

When you operate the lever on the pot and it 'pukes' out of the nozzle like water, it's called 'CHOKING' the pot and it's done to clear blockages or damp sand coagulating in pipe or valve 👍

Thanks for a very informative video. The tips from your experience are fantastic. Cheers

Great video. Just would like to add, make sure you wear ear defenders (not good for tinnitus)and a good breathing apparatus for your lungs!

You present well Sir!

Great tips and info! I’m looking into one now! Thx

I went to school for auto tech probably the same time you were in school. I had 3 amazing shop teachers and mentors. I truly think the world of them. They put good ideas in my head and money in my pocket for over 20 years now. It obviously isn't a contest but I think you could beat all of them in an arm wrestling match and probably get a date with at least two of their Mom's.

Your video is excellent for the operation

Yeah man the same last thing is great. They got all over my picnic table everything is sliding everywhere. It worked great for titanium knife skills. Thank you for taking the time sir. I used 70/40 grit from the cheap harbor freight one with a 3 gallon compressor it took a minute because I had to wait for it to build up air pressure. I guess for knife skills I was tapped blasting and. I would like to go on full force like you were on that hood. Yeah I need a box and shit went everywhere , lol. All in all I think this is great for anything that needs paint removal except for interior homes. It would be great there though I’ll tell you what I’d love to use it in someone’s house or somewhere we could if it was needed me

Nice clear explanation

Thumbs up,good presentation style,enjoyed the transfer of experience.

I just got one, screw top. I was already planning to add a gate valve to the inlet, but i think I'll replace the annoying tap underneath with a longer arm version and do the valve mod at tye business end too. Thanks for the tip on pressure and tip size. I chewed through a 50 lb bag of fine garnet way too fast. I had the regulator wide open, but my big compressor couldn't keep up, and equilibrium was about 30psi. I will make a cabinet for sure and investigate cheaper media types. Cheers :-)

I had a mobile set up on a truck . My pot was for bi carb media was great for removing anti fouling off boat hull ,also used to run garnet through it best abrasive ever . 350 cfm duetz compressor 100 psi at nozzle 1 1/2 inch hose with a 3/8 -1/2 inch Venturi nozzle blastthe spots offa Dalmatian 100 feet away 😅

I removed the air gun and syphon from my sandblast cabinet and used that with a 5 gallon pail of crushed glass. Cost was the blast media alone. Worked great.

Good video Greg! Lots of info there which I know is learned over some frustrating learning the hard way. Hopefully this saves some people the trouble we've all had!

Excellent video, very helpful!

Pretty descriptive.. MANY MANY THANKS for this :)

Bought me a camping tent to work in. recycle my sand eazy vac. keeps it all in 1 place.thank you for sharing 👍

Glad I came across you.

I got quite a few laughs from your video and also learn a lot. You're actually a very funny person.

Very good video! I never knew about glass media or how the blaster works. Your experience will save a lot of learning!

Love your videos! I was just researching one of these to strip down my Ford 9" housing.

Once you get above 50 CFM (like with a diesel compressor) and a 3/16 nozzle, it's like a whole different world.

At 5:30, you can buff those face shield clear the same way they do auto headlights, or just do a quick 600+ grit wet sand and spray bomb them with clear coat... Makes em as good as new, except for their longevity (Course I was in a hurry and hit them with one coat of cheap spray can clear and a heat gun).

amazing video, teacher!

awesome. I think this works great at home. One thing to note for commercial work, where a blast profile needs to be a specific depth, but also profile: re-using blast media makes for a more rounded profile on the base material. This can lead to poor adhesion. This matters in things like internals on pressure vessels on tanks. I've seen it come off in sheets due to re-use of sand on a rounded blast profile in metal. Stick to new sand if it needs to stick in a tough environment.

Very informative and well explained! And…SUBSCRIBED!!!

Thanks, I needed this video!

Thanks for sharing.

Great information. As well as saving money by doing it yourself, there's other spinoffs. Sure, it may take a lot longer than paying someone who may do it in a fraction of the time, but there's no other feeling when you stand back after doing it yourself and getting that self-satisfaction. You are also building your skills for future projects so even more cost savings down the track. It's always that balance between spending money to save time, or spending time to save money.

The biggest issue with blasters is to match the nozzle to the compressor, the size of the tank is basically irrelevant, it all has to do with the nozzle, psi is going to be a direct relation to efficiency, you running down below 60 psi is very inefficient (compared to someone doing this for money) . The ground glass is great for the application… all in all this is a great home job., just keep up on your nozzle..

Loose that nozzle and replace it with eigth inch pipe. And run a halfinch air hose supply too it. Talk about night and day difference. Great video keep em comin

Great information. Thanks.

3m p100 filter are perfect for blasting plus great for welding fumes

LOL! Thank you for those ending remarks.

What a great review, you gained another Canadian subscriber. The critical point is the 5HP compressor, with a flow rate well above anything that runs on 120V. I bet a lot of the negative reviews are from people who don't have the right compressor.

I enjoyed your presentation. My experience with blasting was exactly like yours, except I was using a siphon blaster and sand. Even slower than this unit.

I'm thrifty and save old spark plugs and use the ceramic for tips. All kinds can be made to work from small chain saw plugs to Ford V8.

Something you might want to change out is your rubber hose. I've been using a hydraulic line, and it's far superior to the rubber and has fittings on the ends. You won't regret it. Picked mine up at Northern tool.

Great video!

Great video presentation style . Informative ( could be a little more brief but hey ☺️)and clear.

Thank you

Good rundown. Subbed👍🏽

Great videos! I built a blasting cabinet to help with the restoration of my 1962 Chevy C10 (for wheels and other small parts), and started with plexiglass and then Lexan (but lasted a few hours), and ended up using glass (got about 20 hours per pane). Not sure glass would be good for a hood, but thought I’d mention it. Your videos give me hope for my restoration project. Thanks!!

I made my blast hose longer . I purchased bulk A/C hose. can't remember the size but was cheaper than buying the Blast hose. I've had really good luck with it been using it over 20 years ,without a failure.

Cheap guy here. I cover the plastic (vision) screen with plastic kitchen wrap. Easy to do and protects the plastic screen nicely. This also works on the glass pane in my cabinet blaster.

Great job often thought about one of these, just have too many tools and can't justify it without a major project like your truck.

When I was sand blasting, I used a 400cfm compressor at about 160psi to 200psi. 600 pounds of sand lasted about half an hour or a little more. I did not have a dead man, but there was a man at the pressure pot just in case. The helmet was like a space suit with positive pressure air. Sometimes I did it in -20 to -30 degrees Celsius. The tip was worn out to about 5/8 of an inch. I could blast a D8 in about an hour. A 4x8 sheet of steel in 5 or 10 minutes to white metal, depending on what I'm removing. Like comparing a fire hose to a pencil. Still, I would like to have one of units for smaller projects.

great video !

I have issues with my blaster. I'm not getting any air . I have checked the nozle and feed hose. I even changed over to 1/2 pipe fittings after watching other videos . Any suggestions?

GOOD STUFF THANK YOU!

Very helpful..Thanks.

I was playing more with my used marketplace unit and decided to blow the hose out as well and I was shocked as I took the nozzle off and just blew air from the compressor and wow a huge amount of wet sand came out that obviously would have plugged the nozzle up several more times so my conclusion is that each time I finish using it I will take the nozzle off and blow the sand out of the host as well

Sand vs vapor bladting...which one is better to etch glass?

AMEN Brother! Patience is a virtue and it cost less than a rat on adrenaline.

if you keel over and die what difference would it make if the sandblaster keeps going till out of sand?

I know they have commercial versions with a vacuum function built in, but being the thifty fellow I am, I'd opt to run a funnel around your exit nozzle and tee down to a shop vac to collect your spent media. I'm sure you'd reduce the vac filter's life span by orders of magnitude, but sweeping a hundred pounds of media is a real time burner in itself. Weigh your time value versus effort and maybe allotting for an el cheapo shop vac to dedicate to the system. To do one better, you could also run a cyclone-style dust collector between the vacuum and dump directly into a 5 gallon/20 liter bucket. They don't catch every single particle, but the heaviest stuff drops straight into the bucket, leaving only the junk and smaller particles to collect in your vac tank. Borrowing one other item (not sure what those tips run but I'm guessing they come several to a pack), I wonder if running a hardened steel line through one of your blown out orificed nozzles would be an option. Not sure if brake line would be much better than whatever the stock option is, but it'd be a handy way to just swap out an add-in line on the fly. Ceramic seems to wear better in high friction applications, but that sounds like more work than its worth.

I Have a ten gallon pot! it works just fine but I need a booth for blasting my small boat engines eg 2 Cylinder Kuboto and other small two cylinder engines I now have a professional cabinet I want to get it all up and running however I am just waiting on an op on my hip. All your tips are fine with me. Thanks.

I run the hose and gun inside a sand blast cabinet and look thru the window . Almost all my automotive parts fit. It keeps the abrasive and dust contained and is cleaner as I have a vacuum hooked up. Maybe similar money to the hood and all the other safety gear; but I actually had the cabinet first so it was not a consideration in my case. I like walnut shells, found that my equipment last longer and the shells do a good enough job for the parts I clean up. I also use a wire basket sieve to clean up my media. Bought mine did not steal the wife's.

Excellent video Sir! Thanks for sharing! Any chance I could get decent results using this type unit with my 5.2 SCFM / 200 psig compressor?

You’re Canadian. I’m Canadian but I’ll bet you’re not located in Ontario. I watched your upgrades to your sand blast cabinet. I’ll bet you are using Princess auto glass beads as media to blast. I say that because of all the flour that is blowing around your cabinet. Yes I do the same. Use it till there is nothing left. It does give stainless steel a lovely finish though. You might consider getting rid of the ball valve on your gun in favour of a foot valve. Much more betterer. On off at the push of a toe. And the “gun” is much less bulky. I have an all steel cabinet that is a bit smaller. I also recommend a piece of laminated glass in the viewing port and sandwich that with a much thinner piece o& clear glass underneath and on the inside layer. The thin piece is way cheaper to replace as will happen when after blasting larger parts the glass will eventually get cloudy. Usually because the items I have in my cabinet are a kitties closer to the glass and the media tends to bounce. Nice deal you got on the lathe. Gear head lathe very cheap. Good for youz. I wasn’t aware of there being any “shops” in high schools any longer. In my day we had 2 well equipped machine shops, 2 auto shops, 2 woodworking shops with the thickness planer some stock and other machinery in a large room between the shops. We also had a basic electricity shop on the main floor with the electronics shop and lab on the 3rd floor. Then there was the tin bashing shop and at the rear of that was the welding shop. Around the corner were 2 printing shops. And again on the 3rd floor we’re the drafting classrooms, both mechanical and architectural. I might be forgetting something more but it was over 55 years ago. And the computer rooms were still using punch cards and card readers. I’m old. Last time I looked all the machinery from my high school was sold for scrap or dealers who sol$ it to guys like me and you for inflated prices. And you just can’t find a 1940 or50 era Cincinnati universal milling machine anymore from a school. The may have a few dings but they did not have long hours o& production time on them. I did have a lovely French tool room lathe but I didn’t have access to 550 volt power in those days and there were no VFDs to help. Nice channel

What type of air dryer do you recommend?

That intro … spoken words of truth, and a hint of creepy ! 😁 fantastic haha!

Thanks man

Mom And what is happening? I bought this jeep on Harbor Freight today after I try to analyze some knife skills, titanium. They kinda look good but there was a couple spots that just weren’t driving with me. So I bought 5 pounds of media and this little tool worked really really good. I was impressed except the mess I should have done it in a cardboard box with plexiglass over top. I would recommend using new cabinet because the media went quick and it is not Cheap

Where can I get that blaster and how much did it cost?

I have this exact unit and tried it a couple days ago and of course I know nothing about it but I hooked it up to my compressor and it did go up to 50 lbs pressure but when I opened the valve on the to the tip there was very little air coming through . I did not put sand in yet as I wanted to just get familiar with the operation, perhaps I need to go back and clean the tip out what are your thoughts

I like this pressure pot blaster but my compressor can not handle the volume of air needed.

Keep an eye on the condition of that ball valve, it won't take long for the abrasive to change the shape of the inside of the valves brass. You'll be fine generally, but it will wear a lot faster than you'd guess.

Your video was my answer l went and pulled the nozzle off and took it apart and it was plugged with wet sand so problem solved thanks

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