I love the way Hans reacts to all of this. You don’t see many people nowadays that would admit that they don’t know everything about their job

I really appreciate how thoughtful you are, Travis. Understanding nuance in any high level craft takes a lot of critical self reflection. Many people let ego drive their perceptions and thus perpetuate myths or plateau.

Wow I thought I new a lot about the cons of sand blasting but the tape was the most informative thing I have seen on the tube full stop. Can't thank you enough for this. The time and effort you must have put into this before the day of blasting. The cost to you for theses videos you do is priceless for us. Sylvester Customs are the bench mark in auto restoration. Thanks again Travis

It was actually very noble of Hans to do the test knowing it could be incriminating to his business. I applaud him for pushing himself past his safety zone to better understand the damages of what blasting can do. Knowledge is power.

Just like everyone else has said, fantastic information! I was super surprised that even stripping and etch blasting for the epoxy was enough to warp the panel to that extent! Cheers mate 👍

Great video and great explanation. Been trying to find something like this for a while. I have been trying to explain it to people a lot lately.

Awesome information man, you and Mike are a great team!!

Fascinating video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

Thanks for how in-depth you guys take this discussion. I used to think paint remover (nasty stuff) followed by hand sanding then applying primer (to stop corrosion) panel by panel was the best way, but you've given me a lot to consider. I appreciate it!

great video, well explained as usual .. Cheers

Travis you never cease to amaze me . Your dedication to being 100% knowledgeable in every aspect of quality repair techniques is second to none thank you for sharing all your knowledge

Another great video Boss, Thanks Again.

Great video. Thanks for making this!

Im a little behind on your videos, this was a lot of good information. Thanks for putting this together and sharing.

The heat alone really surprised me . Great video Great way of explaining, and showing what will happen.

Best channel on KZfaq!

Great video. I used to blast yrs ago and was using the coal product. I wasn't blasting many body parts but everything is true what you said. Had the light go out while blasting and watch the sparks fly.

sir just started watching this channel ,Awesome tutorials Travis thank you for your humble approach at teaching your skills and attension to detail, knowledge your sharing.Im Getting invaluable direction from Slyvester Customs to fix my 1981 XD Ford Falcon thankyou so much ,watching your videos from Begining, with pen and paper love the channel,learning so much.

I recently had a 1973 ford f350 sandblasted. The guy used coal slag at 40 psi and kept his distance. I was very pleased with the results. I'm presently dealing with two cars that have a great deal of blasting damage from a different blaster. It is absolutely not a job for a person whos not experienced.

Brilliant demo. Gotta try the heat gun on my next round of wet blasting.

Thank you that was interesting. I learned something.

Thanks I learn a lot with you.

Awesome video!

Thank you so much for the information

By far best video about this problem on youtube period!!i 23 years ago in our shop we had decently preserved Opel that was about 50 years old at that moment.Car was sent to sand blaster who was and probably still is ignorant fool.It is pointless to say that he destroyed car.I spend days traying to strait damn thing,hammer and dolly ,torch and water,spotter...all in vein!It took about 90 kg all sort of material to make him look nice.And it was round little car "OLIMPIA".AFTER THAT NEVER AGAIN!If it is necessery only inner structure,door yambs....and it is sprayed with rattle can and i'm standing 6 feet behind sandblaster watching every his move like a hawk(ready to kill him).Paint stripper+light sanding with palm random orbital sander will do job just fine.I saw a perfect hood from 70's Cadillac at my colleague shop that was stripped with dry ice and they warped it,how i don't know?

Great video!

Amazing visuals.

Wow, awesome!

I’ve done quite a few cars wet with medium crushed glass for body shops, never dry though as it heats up the metal too much. If the panels aren’t on the vehicle you have to be extremely careful because there’s isn’t any structure to them and can easily cause warpage. Also I generally won’t blast the interior of panels at all, too much risk. With the proper stand off and angle wet you shouldn’t have any issues. I’ve never had any complaints from any of the body shops that I’ve done work for 🤷‍♂️. Great video‼️

I think experienced sandblasters should watch this, pause, rewind and watch certain parts again, plus new hires, trainees , should watch and pass a written test and verbal review before ever putting on a suit or touching a hose nozzle. It is failure to do specialized work correctly without the proper training first! Great demo! I know Hans will think about this for years. DK. ASE Master retired

Thank you, people said I was crazy when I said this. Black racing stripes on a hood will show thru the next paint job at certain temperatures....

this was a well put together video. i work for a company where we sandblast on a mobile commercial scale where we blast transport truck frames, trailers tri axle, and once in awhile we will sandblast some aluminum stuff.

Great, detailed tutorial as usual. Im understanding the base metal theory but if I build a car here in Indiana with high summer humidity for a customer in a different climate, is it possible to prevent any phantom wave or is physics gonna naturally work against the materials regardless? I install a lot of fiberglass kits on classic Mustangs and I know first hand how much fiberglass moves but can it be prevented with metal? Also, do you still 80 grit bare metal after blasting with coal slag or is it enough tooth to go right to VP2050? Thanks

I've just started a blasting bisness and wow you opened my eyes ,im in Oz and would love to go to the States and learn my craft

As a metal shaper and panel beater i had no clue it was this bad and ive fixed alot of sandblast damage especially hoods its never fun .this is also kind of metal work 101 at the same time though you get shape in panels from stretch and shrink values relative to eachother when you understand that in depth your unstoppable

Fantastic

Acid dipped the cab and bed of my 46 Chevy Truck in 1984 and still own it. Best decision ever.

When i blasted back in the day i could do a whole car with no warpage but it took me two cars to learn how to do it with no damage. Luckily the damage after blasting revealed that the panels should be replaced installed of repaired. The technique for blasting without damage is low pressure distance and angle of attack. Most people just go at it. Very good video.

I use my old stuff out blast cabinet to hit my welded areas before epoxy also

I haven't done any sheet metal, but I have a lot of experience with industrial blasting and coating. My first thoughts were how either walnut or corn cob blast media would work. I'd be interested in trying some out.

Gotta say I'm quite happy that none of the blasters wanted to touch my vintage Austin van. All 18ga. So I paid a fortune to have it chemically stripped. Came out squeaky clean thru out.

This is one of the most informative videos I have ever seen on sandblasting. I have always wanted to do a whole car sand blast with my 1980 camaro but I have heard that after sandblasting the grit gets stuck in all the crevices and then after painting it acts like sandpaper and grinds into the meal exposing raw metal to the elements and then starts rusting. Is this true? What are the issues with a whole car sandblast? I wished I lived in southern California.

WOW !!!!!!!

When the video starts you think that Hans will be the one doing the teaching... bait and switch lol.

cool vid

I tried watching this video again and was trying to hear what material and grit was used for the test? He did blast the painted area and wanted to know if was going to switch to a different media etc. It seemed like he had no issues with the aluminum oxide. Would that be a choice for removing paint with primer with occasional surface rust?

so with all that being said I have a 68 mustang I was going to do now I don't think so. what would you recommend just old school sand on a sanding disc. thanks

I can't believe in the USA you still use sand and class for sandblasting in Australia it was band more than a decade ago because it of silicosis. We mainly use garnet or metal grit

I have a dustless unit I use crushed glass On older cars 19 gauge the thick metal On some cars newer stuff you have to be careful I just did a 78 Elcamino I polish the metal after and I check my metal with a block before priming I don’t get warping Crushed bottle glass shatters when it hits the surface I find the priming and blocking stage my metal stays straight I own my unit it’s on a trailer with sulair 185 diesel compressor You have to have the right setup doing it myself I love the results I get Distance and keeping moving is important

Why do you not recommend to introduce grease/wax remover to a blasted area? Thanks

How thick would you recommend fiberglass filler to be on warped welded patches ?

“Back in the day” when I was doing frame up VW’s, I would have the pans dipped and bodies were plastic media or walnut blasted, never warping a panel. Yeah, it cost slightly more up front but I didn’t have to shrink panels 😉

My blaster does crushed glass he does the whole car dry and jambs just not face of any body panels because of warping I hand strip sct and 80 grit da then delfleet primer epoxy they say is the best . I have had cars with ghost waves hard to get out of metal so stretched .

Hi does wet blasting with glass beads do the same? Im about to blast my car ready for repaint. Cheers...

Would it be safe and effective to use an sct first and then long board with 36 grit or maybe 80 grit before epoxy or bodywork?

I blast professionaly for 12 years.. we use soda on open areas...and very fine glass on car bodys...fine as baby powder...we have done many mopar drag cars with very thin bodys...with very good results..

Took my car in for repair. Hood had to be repainted. My windshield looks like a ton of paint overspray. Lots was removed but not all. A person said the windshield looks sandblasted. Does this mean my windshield was effected by the blasting on the hood at the shop? Do they not cover the windshield properly? Is the hood usually removed prior to repair n paint?

Wow I can't believe he allowed you to make this video. Must be a pretty stand up guy.

Hes blasting at to direct of an angle. Blasters need to learn about impingement angle. I fill in the holes on the underside of bonnets and boots with 2 layers of blast tape so I can blast the frame to stop hitting the inner skin. The demo with the tape was a good way to demonstrate how easy it is to damage. Use the blaster to on a more level angle of about 15° or less so the media is used to basically sand it or wear it away rather than smashing it from above. You'll end up with a not so aggressive profile too. All in all good demonstration and information. Garnet and aluminium oxide works best to remove paint and rust in my opinion.

This is very good. Why didn’t you cover plastic media blasting,using the correct particle size

I used the Eastwood svt. On my hood, and got low areas.the rest of hood I used paint stripper. Has anyone having problems with svt. Heating metal and causing this problem? Did I use svt wrong?

I would like to see you do the same test with a wet blaster

I had my ‘65 VW Notch blasted by a very reputable shop. No damage done by the blaster. The roof already had numerous “oil can” dents due to probable hail damage. The body came out perfect and was in DP 90 that night. Car is painted black and is straight as is humanly possible. I think acid dipping would be ideal if you could dip the cleaned body into a vat of epoxy so that every nook & cranny was sealed from air, moisture & eventually rust.

Hello, I’m wanting to use a Sand blaster hookup to my power washer to do the bottom of my cab and firewall on my square body. I don’t have easy access to a blaster in rural Iowa. So with that being said… bare metal and water = no bueno. What can I use afterwards to neutralize the flash rust before my epoxy!?

You’d be shocked what the dustless wet blast does I’ve been painting cars my whole life I’m 61 I love the dustless unit look up dustless blasting Huston Texas

Fine crushed glass is recommended also.

Great video - intelligent presentation. I have for years been cautioning people re blasting. And also staying away from the term "sand blasting" -- NOBODY should be using sand and if they are - tell them to FU-K OFF and not touch your vehicle etc. Abrasive blasting (HA - NOT with sand) can have its place on SOME areas - bur be CAREFUL where you use it - and yes - there are good abrasive blasters and FU-KWITS that should not be let near your car etc. Me - I prefer dipping a shell, and sometimes, spot abrasive blasting - but ONLY on areas that I have no other option. 'Horses for courses' - sometimes. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.

How would you prep a hood that was already blasted years ago and has accumulated some oils and contaminants? Degrease and DA?

I got a question...does acid dipping the body of a car take care of the surface rust that are in between panels that are spot welded?..if not what's the best way to take care of that problem?..I feel like I might as well drill out every spot weld and rebuild the whole car..is this necessary? Any advice is helpful..Thanks again😎

What would be the best way to strip a vehicle that’s been sitting out in the elements? Surface rust, minor pitting, old paint, etc? Bottom of floor pan, quarters? I’m thinking of putting the car on a rotisserie having it sandblasted then coating with epoxy primer.

Is it okay where the jams are? Don't blast doors, hood, trunk, roof?

So what happend if you sand blast both side of the fender or a piece of sheet metal ?

Your compressor pressure is pulsating that's your problem. You need consistency in pressure, media, distance from surface and constant nozzle movement.

Starblast is not coal slag. It's a mined mineral that it mined in north Florida. Starblast is very similar to sand but has a lower silica content so it's safer for the operator.

What’s the best way to remove paint?

Would love to do a Laser Cleaning collaboration!

What about wet blasting like dustlessblasting ??

Some people wreck their car by machine stripping deep gouges with course paper , and wire wheels. Acid dipping also removes metal if left to long , a combination of everything is best

I always thought this warping controversy was all BS... Until I spot sandblasted the underside of mustang roof after spending a lot of time getting it straight and it made a mess.

Sandblaster pulsating was the problem. Also when sandblasting you need to blast at an angle. This is why wet blasting is better. The water keeps the metal cool thus preventing warpage. Crushed glass is also the best medium not beach sand.

That's why you go dustless when blasting car parts (using water, rust inhibitor and an air cooler to cool the metal as it's being cleaned. 👍

If your doing a test, how about a real comparison to other media. Plastic media leaves the same finish that the original part started out as, no profile to the metal. Also will remove powdercoating. Using a much lower pressure at the nozzel, We used to get about 1 sq ft of paint removal per minute using plastic at 30 psi, 1/2 inch nozzel, 800 cfm compressor. Lot of volume, no pressure.

Who would sandblast the centres of body panels anyway?

Process control is key. I heard "tooth" quite a few times and thought I'd see anchor profile, surface roughness, and other controls. Nope...nothing Also, I saw the temp gun and thought ok...but while sanding never saw a temp gun. While I was impressed with level of thought put into getting quality results, I was a little disappointed in the identification of a special process and how/why it should be controled.

Great video but please stop calling it sandblasting. It’s media blasting which can be many different types including: sand, glass, soda, plastic, coal slag, and others. Your spot on by saying it’s the peening effect that warps the metal. More so than any heat induced. Heck a black car on a hot sunny day can see panel temps get up to 200°. Any media that is harder than the base metal can and usually does cause warpage. I prefer plastic media blasting myself mainly because I have no one near that can acid dip, it’s cost prohibitive and I am set up to do PBM myself. It’s gentle enough I have done large low crown panels and it has left the acid etched USS logo that was on the steel before it was stamped. But it doesn’t touch rust or leave a tooth for epoxy. Most of the cars I blast are paint jobs that I’m doing myself and I have never found that it has warped a panel, yet….

Man....can you beat around the bush er what ?

So how did they strip cars back in the 50s 60s

It's not heat its air pressure and the abrasive, i blast and have never felt the panel hot as the air is cooling do fast, i had a bonnet wrecked just with high air pressure by the time i told the man to stop it was to late , 250cfm at 150psi through a 1/2 inch nozzle and it bends steel

I media blasted the inside of a hood once. Ended up with a prefect transfer of the structure onto the outer skin. 100% ruined. Good lesson though, lol.

Sand blast definitely causes damage to your car. I have worked in a restoration shop and worked on hundred of cars that have been sandblasted. The sandblasters say that they don’t cause damage because they are not body and paint guys, they just don’t know. Not only that they get dinged up because they are stacked, moved, handled, and stored in their shop for weeks to months they get all beat up there too. I had a 72 Camaro blasted that my dad bought off the showroom floor new. The body work should have been easy considering the car was all original and factory straight. When I got it back I had to put 10x the body work into it than expected.

Do\ these\ findings\ also\ apply\ to\ soda\ blasting-_?

A couple of guy's endorsing the use of WET blasting ...... NO heat and warping issues then...

Water blast it is the best then acid dipped

Sandblaster- no warpage Me- you ever do bodywork before?

Starblast media, enough said

Two words: Soda Blaster. I just did my oak kitchen cabinets with a soda blaster and it worked great and did not harm the wood at all. I know it is more expensive and a bit messier, but i fyou are concerned about damaging the substrate... I am surprised they did not even mention this option.

it all depends on the IDIOT doing the job ? = sand blasting is fantastic and used in many areas - antique furniture restoration = but i prefer the paint stripper method paint on scrape off ! good luck and take care !

Wet abrasive too

The way they clean extremely expensive turbo charge blades on commercial marine engines is walnut. That goes bare back bone at it. No issues.

Dustless sandblasting