Lol, I literally just said, welp I’m sold on it.

Same here, as soon as I saw that cut - on Amazon ordering now.

Fit's&Tight ! :D

What kind of weirdo shares a KZfaq account Howard & bec dove 🤣🤣🤣

Never use MDF in wet areas!

Just watching it now!

Could you show us how you made the 2 degree cut next to the tub . Thanks

Bow do you go about finding angles on tiny pieces like quarter round and small wrap around areas? I find the t bevel and other protractor are top long to fit in these areas. I'm having trouble

I watch Scott brown all the time such a great channel

You're vs your. Check it out.

Ahaha

A carpenter's buddy is a painters caulk lol

Do your best caulk the rest!

Caulking is key to a pro paint job. Your corners can be tight as hell but paint will not hold that miter doing expansion.

SOLD!

Just added it to my buying soon list!

That's an awesome tip. Thanks!

Thanks, I thought mine was defective since they didn’t line up and I couldn’t find a way to adjust it.

I'm a carpenter, not a hater. :-)

Just direct them to that taylor swift song and move on

Waste of time took to me but good for diy people and I’m assuming you’re one of them

@@adrianitis3750 hater talk haha. It is a cool tool and it can be used for professionals if they would choose to but to each their own it is a matter of opinion and preference. Still a cool tool

10,000 likes and 200 dislikes. I can only assume the 200 people are carpenters and are hating because I won’t be calling them cause thanks to this vid I will do the work myself thanks to this video. So I understand completely.

Hi Richard. I am a recent subscriber and am considering switching careers and going into carpentry. I have enjoyed watching your vids and find them to be quite helpful. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Did you go to a vocational school or basically learn on your own?

William Mead: Check his earlier videos. He has one video where he gives a talk to a high-school shop class about how he got started and advice for noobs starting out. It's a great video. Edit: found it: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qsmilNyDntWopaM.html

Finish Carpentry TV good video, what kind of glue is that?

I got that tool 5yrs ago. Never knew how to do the single cut option until today lol

awesome tool ! what kind of glue are you using?

smokingcheeba420 yeah it was on the history channel. Ancient aliens brought this technology and blessed man kind with it

@Joe T They also used plumb roberts, I mean plumb bobs.

Me too!

Tony Grace exactly my thoughts!

Probably with many tubes of painters caulk

Lol just plenty of trips back and forth to the saw 🤣😂

Better you than me.

Mike's Content when I was a 1st year apprentice in sheet metal I made the mistake of pronouncing it star et. Was corrected immediately and never said it again lol

Robbie Vigil haha sometimes.

matt smejek oh yeah in my house we only heard one way.

@@Robbievigil Ditto.

You ain't buying that tool at Walmart

Great point Mr. Clint Price!!!! In my house that I did not build, the builder used MDF ALL over including the bath and kitchen areas. Poor decision!

What should you use in those areas?

Good question, I would try to use poplar, or clear pine, or paint grade maple. Something that is more water resistant.

But then he can’t charge to redo it lol jk

K00K, my sentiments, too. I LOATHE bullnoses corners. I see them as a mask to cover up lousy drywall workmanship where they couldn't make a proper corner fit.

Not a big deal just a thang bullnose is actually pretty simple

At least once a day I spend time ripping out bullnose corners and flushing them out with angle beads. Old fashioned!

Knock-downs (the drywall finish on the walls in this video) are hideous. They also make any repair to the wall a much more difficult job. But they weren't invented for the sake of the homeowner. They were invented for the sake of the drywall contractor that wants to hire cheap labor that doesn't have any idea what it's doing. Use of bullnose could easily be a sign that you are dealing with a drywall contractor that only works in production mode. Not quality mode. I've seen the bullnose used as far north as Ocean City, Maryland. That protractor is a great tool, however.

This is interesting. In Colorado, I find bullnose in more of the “higher end” houses and square corners in everything below.

I was going to comment this as well. Any tips for a long run of base when theres a hump in the floor? Loving these baseboard vids!!!

Heres how I have learned to scribe base to match humps or dips in floors. If you have a hump, level the base so that you can transfer the hump. To simplify it... if you have 5/16 of a gap on the left of the high spot and 5/8 on the right. Set a scribe to 5/8 of an inch start on the right and mark to the left. Cut the waste side of the line and either belt sand or hand plane to the line to make a cut that matches the floor perfectly. Fast cap accu-scribe are a life saver. They have made 2 variations, are well worth the 13-20 dollars they cost.

I do base in sections as a complete, uninterrupted run. So if the base starts at the edge of door casing, turns an inside corner, then an outside corner then stops at a door casing I would cut to length and dry fit for length all those pieces together. That would be a complete run. Cut everything to length and do a dry fit and temporarily tape together any outside miters to keep them from falling. I shim the ends of each piece so the top of each piece is perfectly flush with the one next to it and so that any outside miters are closed. Longer pieces might require a 3rd shim in the middle if they sag. Narrow shims are best so they don't interfere with your scribe. Unless there are fabric panels or some other wall treatment that's going to sit on top of your base and it needs to be level most base doesn't need to be dead nuts level. Generally if there's a fat hump in the middle of a wall I split the difference, but each situation is different. For marking/scribing, and especially for stain grade, I prefer to use masking tape or green painter's tape and a .5mm ink ball type pen in a Home Cheapo compass, it gives a very thin but clear line for jig sawing or freehanding on a table saw and then belt sanding or block planing. For high end residential with somewhat bumpy solid oak floors, (high end as in $550 toilet paper holders in each crapper), I'll remove the ink cartridge of a pen and hot glue it in a small block of wood. If for some reason there's a seam in the floor planks within an inch or 2 it can throw off your scribe if you're using a compass or any of those larger expensive scribing tools. Also, the base might be sitting on a small natural bump but that bump might not extend all the way out to where your big ol' scribing tool is riding. No Bueno! A small block of wood with a hole and a pen in it and some hot glue to secure it is your best bet for bumpy, uneven floors. Like a small chunk of MDF that's 1/2"x1/2"x1" with a hole for the pen cartridge about 3/8" up, or positioned wherever you need. There's a million tricks, and that's just for wall base.

I didn't hear him mention a glue. On another video showcasing this miter tool the person used LePage 10 minute Wood Glue for its quick drying ability while doing miters.

It's a cyanoacrylate. It's essentially the same thing as "Super Glue" but he's using a gel version.

There are several good coping vids on KZfaq. Try to watch as many as possible. A hand coping saw is good but a Collins coping foot is really good if you've got a lot to do. Also, a round file, about 3/8" thick and a small triangular shaped file is good for precise coped joints.

Wud Dude I would be lost without my Nicholson 4 way

All my coping I use a cordless angle grinder with 36 grit sanding disks. Then fine tune it by hand with sandpaper as needed. It you have to take out a lot of material, back cut the cope with the miter saw, they cope with the grinder. It's super fast

Haven't heard that one. LOL!

Caulk and paint make it what it ain't

fuck it that’ll do...... not my house 😂

I know a painter who can fix it!

fakeittillyoumakeit

Pretty sure Starrett's stock was, and will continue to be, just fine with or without this or any other video. They've only been around for about 150 years.

Still Worth IT!!! The results prove It!!!

I sure bought one..lol

James Myers Sr. Yep i was going to say the same I'm only 30 and i scribe all my internal joins. I can see how it would be good for external corners.

Speaking of gluing up first, last year I had the opportunity to use a set of Jim Chestnut's clam clamps for door and window casing. At first I was skeptical because of the 4 pin holes it leaves in the finish, but now after using them, in the words of the Monkeys, I'm a believer. Have you ever used them?

Yup, it’s a waste of money to me to buy that tool I’ll loose that tool really quick because I won’t need it since I already knew how off it was by looking at it

Home Depot has matching waterproof base board trim for wet areas. I've used it before and love it.

Good point, Giter Dun. I wouldn't use MDF anywhere close to water. TBH I wouldn't use it period, but that's just me.

CA Glue with a liquid spray activator. 3-5 seconds it’s set up so practice the placement of the meters before you apply it

To late found it bro lol love it

Matt Holman just the face and sides

What type of glue is that? I’m new to all this. Thanks.

Challenge Floyd cyanoacrylate aka super glue

CA Glue - essentially a super glue with a spray activator to harden quicker.