He made the video to pay for it

Great winner, Batman! We got a botycat here!

@@datadavis Yeah, pretending to be Civvie, on a video irrelevant to Civvies content. Tsk tsk.

If you have ever crawled under a truck with fencing wire, Robogrips and a screaming determination not to spend 50 dollars on fancy aftermarket shit you don't ABSOLUTELY need, then you understand why that level of determination makes this dude a hero among men. Or at least, very, very broke men.

@@fapangel7771 Shit, bailing wire is one of the best exhaust hanger that exists. Second only to coat hangers.

How robust is it over time and with weathering when used outside?

@@101rotarypower Anything used outside in the weather should be painted. Bluing, blackening, browning, etc., will not do well in the weather.

@@billmcleangunsmith heck, paint really isn't up to real weather

If only there was an available paint that actually bonded to aluminium

That's my experience also. If you clean, clean, clean the part and apply it that way it works pretty well and lasts *well enough*.

I mean, you already have that, also calipers with wifi

I saw him going for it and was like, fuuuuu. If it where that easy.....

they do exist. mitutoyo makes them

@@ABVollen kinda hard sacrificing a kidney to get one though :D

they exist lol

i think he is making in cad himself

@@topherc100 Naah, you can see where he plugs in the USB to transfer it. Pretty sure you can get 'em on Aliexpress.

@@mchamster7 i cant tell when you guys are being serious or trolls!

its called poe's law!@@coffeeoutlaws7783

I've seen calipers with Bluetooth actually

But in which timeline…?

I was also a little worried.

*you're

Yer

Eur

same here

Me too!✌🏻

THanks Unfunk!!

I second this. While I do have some interest in machining and CNC. I don't really have intention to start doing it. But Tony's videos are genuinely some of the most funny (in a clever sort of way,) and well edited on this website. The edit and visual gags are unlike anything else as well. Always keeps me coming back.

I have to give a 1+ to this, the way tony does his content is extremely digestible. Thank you tony for the hours and hours of content you have given us.

@koko ko No, you don't just walk around and promote your channel under others videos. FU!

the boogers make sense if he's been keeping his pellets in his nose so far

The real info's always in the comments. The channel host just provides the entertainment whilst we mutually grope around in our intellectual darkness searching for the light switch of enlightenment.

You got me good. 😂

@@dMb1790 stop it. I'm gonna piss myself!

@@steelwheelsminnesota damn, well said.

Magic touch, he only needs to try twice. Us mere mortals can only dream.

Otherwise known as Wrong, wrong right

he is learning from his past mistakes.

USB ports live in a 4+t dimensional space, hense the need for the double rotation. As a time traveler, Tony apparanly can see (or at least peak) in the additional space dimension, and thus needs fewer rotations to insert a USB.

Yes. You have a 50 percent chance of getting it right the first time. And an 80 percent chance of not realizing it is right.

What jokes?

Yeah, if you have to explain...

ToT was one of the first machining channels I watched. I was probably a dozen or so videos deep before I started to think "Hey, wait a minute..." I think it was using the rotary welding platform to 'pop' nuts from ball bearings (Like microwave popcorn) that finally convinced me :D

I haven't laughed so hard in a while.

Why are you using lye? if unattended it will etch into the Alum. part clean your parts with soap and hot water l did it for 10 years at work in the machine shop made alum. fixtures that were to be in the medical assembly line.

@@lberthelon I'll second this one... I work with a lot of drills and saws, dealing with putting holes and cuts in extruded copper and aluminum, and even something as moderate as sodium carbonate (I use it for degreasing and neutralizing acid etching on steel...) will attack the aluminum chips, given enough time...

So far my home shop anodizing works beautifully on scrap but on parts mixed bag of OK to horrific

@@lberthelon Because this was my first time doing this. I made mistakes, and wanted to strip the anodizing from a part to try again. I learned lots of lessons as I did more, and found that my poorly anodized parts were mostly because of my wire connections. After I figured out a better way to get current flowing, the lye was no longer necessary. I'm just a self-taught guy out in his garage.

@@lberthelon Oh, and believe me, I did NOT leave it unattended! I never left a part in the (weak) bath for very long; nor did I need to. But it stripped the flawed anodized layer smoothly and evenly. I cannot tell from looking at them which parts were stripped and re-done.

excellent point!

Would walnut shell media, or corn cob media have been better at both light deburring, and preventing surface pitting by the "sand"?

Was about to yell about Al on steel in that setup. Sadly he didn't use a plastic container for reference. Ah well...

looks like stainless steel which is unreactive

What kind of plastic? HDPE or PTFE?

@@executive Oh to be a young, naïve apprentice again.

@@SergeantExtreme That's a very good description of yourself. Stainless will resist weak, room temperature acids, such as this very dilute solution, and cupric sulfate with ease.

One of his best funny moments in a long time, imo!

I have a set of calipers from iGaging with Bluetooth. It acts like a BT keyboard and actually works really well. I just go to dimension a part in SOLIDWORKS, fusion360, excel, whatever... And push a button on the calipers and it sends the dimension over and pushes enter.

fully expected him to fail, flip it over, fail and flip it over again to the first side for success, like anything you try to plug in to a usb

@@dtroy15 Wow... I hadn't been keeping up! So, calipers from iGaging with Bluetooth... How good is the software for bringing in dimensions to the target software? Does it auto-copy to the clipboard or something else?

@@marcfruchtman9473 it just acts like a Bluetooth keyboard. No special software required. You can even use it on your phone, as I do to record dimensions in excel for tolerancing analyses etc. Just like a Bluetooth keyboard can send a "9" to your computer when you hit the 9 button, the calipers can send a "9" to your computer.

@vladviking Darn skippy it works. I use 2 for use on casings to make more things to shoot things with.

The machine shop i used to work in had one that was old as hell and had been "fixed" over and over again with parts from harbor freight and from the hardest stainless and titanium, all the way down to really REALLY soft brass wouldn't take but a few minutes, the titanium obviously took the longest (around an hour) but the brass and aluminum only was maybe 5 minutes before they were perfectly smooth on all edges that would slice you like a razor before hand

You know you really ought to chase him out of there, the neighbours are starting to talk.

Can you tell me how this solution works? Is it replacing aluminum with copper or/and nickel at the surface and that's what is causing the blacking process? Thanks

What solution is used?

I'm having some issues anodizing, do you mind helping me please

Hi Robert I need to paint some oxidized aluminum on my bicycle could you please give me some advice on surface conversation and prep prior to painting?

Pool chemicals pH- work well too, and easy to get without people thinking you are cooking drugs in your basement.

@@minigpracing3068 its just good ole lye, get some for making pretzels! Or get some to unclog your drain. Maybe even get rid of a stump in your back yard

One question, what kind of dye do you have to use? Is it some stuff specifically for anodizing?

@@CatNolara I've heard of people using Rit fabric dye for anodizing

@@CatNolara it's typically an inorganic pigment based dye suspended in water and the pigments get trapped in the pores.

This monstrocity was intended :D ? Why?!?

I agree with everything you said!

No cap

Thanks TJ!

It works great if you brush it on, dipping not so much

The SDS lists both nickel and copper sulfate and both copper selenide and nickel selenide are black, so that's a decent guess.

@@nathanschley2088 and Jason: Machinists don't make decent guesses on any topics which are not front and centre machining. They just make absolute, massively improbable, wild ass guesses (although they don't own up to that, even to themselves). If you doubt what I'm saying, just launch into a political discussion on a machining forum (and stand back)...

@@Gottenhimfella really off topic. Nobody cares that you argue politics in other forums.

@@UnitSe7en It's not really off topic, just poorly presented. When you have someone who is an expert in a topic (machining, in this case), that doesn't mean they're an expert in other topics (chemistry, in this case). Often they themselves don't realize the extent of what they don't know. So you have to take that part of what they're saying with a grain of salt. It's most obvious with politics since there's a lot of misinformation out there and people tend to just accept wild claims that fit their worldview. Another example I see all the time in my field is software developers and IT. A lot of developers learn the basics of IPv4 and will talk like they have a deep understanding of networking. Then you throw them a problem that involves some simple routing or layer-2 stuff, and they fall apart. I prefer a coworker that is aware of his ignorance than a more knowledgeable coworker who tries to cover it up.

@@jeffspaulding9834 Nicely put. 👍

Same!

depression

@@Lu-db1uf my kind of humor

Never get too nosy about another man's screwing and nut issues.

I also would like to know.

Guess the can was half empty..

honestly the worn pitted look might be cool.

well, it could very well be that one of them was aluminum and the other was aluminium

@@andresaofelipe hahaha

pog, congrats man

This isn't an oxidizer. it's an etchant that simultaneously performs a copper selenide deposition and a phosphate conversion. It's basically fake black oxide, made of a copper and selenium matrix, with a little nickel phosphate for wear resistance. It etches the existing oxide layer, then because of the consumption of that oxide layer, the solvent potential of the solution goes down and deposits the mixed matrixes onto the surface which used to be covered in aluminum oxide (or not, it tends to work better with freshly milled parts because it acts as a primer in a way.) Continued application dissolves the existing matrix which repeats the process, allowing you to "layer", even though it is nondimensional. Best applied with a brush or carefully applied with cotton swabs. It is pretty much identical to Gun Blue or Cold Blueing solution, except for it's slightly chemically different. Both are copper selenide reactions, NOT true oxidation. They don't form a real oxide layer.

@@D-Vinko so is there any real way of performing cold oxidization of aluminium at room temperatures?

Cold Blue for steel or aluminum ?

@@jesseherman2453 Steel blueing. TOT mentioned it only works on steel, but it works on other metals.

Was thinking this as well, I think powder coat would do well too. Just have to be careful with the thickness of the coats being applied.

Cerakote actually adds size

@@Turbogto_guy well yeah, but between 0.0005" and 0.001" isn't going to make any difference to almost any part.

@@craigm5511 it did on a receiver I coated where the barrel slid in.

@@craigm5511 it adds a LOT more than that. It's marketing. I even discussed this with their senior reps this year when I met with them. Their take is that you remove material from the part when blasting and add it back when coating. It's a give and take that is not exact and can be very misleading. I don't think you actually understand the measurements you gave and how small they really are and how that can not, and will not be achieved uniformity with the use simple hand tools. Average droplet size factoring in the VMD(aka DV0.%x10) of the nozzle and knowing that cutting the droplet size in half results in 8x as many droplets you will see that come out, and with the average droplet size being 30μ (1-120μ VMD) You can see how the advertising of 8-25μ is misleading. Just one droplet can be .005" while others are so light that it requires a second pass which send out more droplets ect ect... So the point is you need to know what you are talking about and not just type marketing phrases as a truth. You won't see consistent 1mil coverage on any part done by hand. And the smaller parts as well as more corners and curves only makes things worse.

Aluminum should naturally oxidize with the surrounding air, creating its own oxide coating. Since bluing, both hot and cold, add a protective layer of oxidized metal, I think cold bluing is only to pass aluminum as blued steel. Aluminum is/was notorious for its oxidization (Hence thermite being a relatively modern invention) so naturally it never needed bluing in its relative recent modern usage.

Cold bluing is NOT bluing. It's a selenium dioxide coating. It's cosmetic. _Actual_ bluing is a black oxide (iron) layer, not _on_ the surface, but _in_ the surface (the topmost molecules). Black oxide is _stable_ unlike _Red_ oxide, also known in the "body and fender" trade as "cancer" -- because it is very _unstable_ -- growing and growing, spreading and spreading, eating its way into the steel. That's why steel is blued -- to have black oxide instead of red oxide. Even so, it's not a "force field" -- especially if there are any nicks, scratches, and so forth on the surface. That would be enough for red rust to gain a foothold. Before the advent of hot salt bluing, people did "rust bluing" -- which is still a superior form of bluing. It's pretty simple. You brush the part with an acid (they sell "bluing acid" for not very much money), to promote the rapid formation of an even, velvety coat of red rust (from atmospheric humidity), and then you dunk the part into boiling water for a while. The boiling water (water being "hydrogen rust" so to speak -- an oxide of hydrogen) will convert the red rust into black "rust." You then brush away all surface "rust" (now black) with a file card, brush with acid, and repeat. After several iterations, the part will get darker and darker, until it ends up with a deep, lustrous black. BTW, the main corrosion resistance provided by bluing is via the microscopic pitting it creates on the surface, which will retain oil when you coat it (and rubbing it in with a rag helps). An even better treatment in that regard is Parkerizing, which can be gray or black, and will be _visibly_ rough, able to hold more oil due to the coarser texture.

@@This_is_my_real_name are there any types if black corrosion resistant surface treatments for steel surfaces that need to be degreased and oil-free?

@@RC-fp1tl nitride/melonite/QPQ, some flavor of nitrocarburization.

no big deal, just a hint of nitric acid and a more reactive metal, in this case selenium cements/"plates" out.