450C enough to 3D print solder

Around minute 9 when the little part kept rolling off the desk until you put it straight, IDK why but I found it very funny.

I recommend thinly applying the paste to the thread on the nozzle and heatbreak before inserting into the heat block and don't apply to the heat block. I also avoid getting it close to the end of the threads so it doesn't squeeze into the gap as tightening them up. At leas tthis is the trick I use with the Mosquito.

They really need to make a water cooled motor and heat break version. With a rating of 450C you can get into some great engineering plastics. Pull the other motors and electronics outside of the heated chamber and pump a lot of heat inside and you could print in ultem or even PEEK.

Great impartial, unbiased review. Love how you covered all the various aspects of the hotend. Pleasure to watch. Can't wait for the next video.

This review seems a little off to me. You're comparing what I would recommend as the minimum for a hotend, A genuine V6, to what is advertised as a high end hotend. I would prefer to see it on more equal footing. Copper V6, titanium heatbreak, and Nozzle X. As you stated the price still favors E3d, but what about quality and performance when they are one more equal footing?

Great review Thomas, I'm glad I can count on you for the true redeeming value of content because you know what really matters. That hot end is totally trick, and I love the interchangeability. Thank you," these are things I need to know right now. "You are on the job."

You can almost buy an entire Ender 3 for the price of this thing

I’ve had that heat break in my printed solid cart for weeks now. I had to go ahead and finish my order as soon as I saw you put this out.

Thank you again for an excellent video. The detail you give and your wealth of knowledge is incredible. Lately I don't really consider buying items for my printers unless you review them. It's almost like buying it myself and doing all the testing myself with zero risk.

Good info! I have been considering upgrading My Raised3D E2 to these hotends and this video certainly help confirm the quality.

God, the profit margins on each of these components is insane (probably not)...

If you want to measure the temperature of a piece of aluminum, don't use a thermal camera if you don't adjust the emissivity for the material

This video basically sums up my thoughts on all of the Slice Engineering products, they are definitely not for everyone, but they really shine in their specific applications.

I love the design and love that there is innovation going on. Great video btw. My printer runs on 24V (I think) Is there an easy way to upgrade this or can I even use it?

I really wish they would use a set screw or something to better hold the thermistor and heater. Thermal paste is supposed to be used to enhance metal to metal contact by filling in imperfections...but that contact is still supposed to be metal to metal. Slice seems to think thermal paste goes between the 2 metal surfaces.

Excellent video! Please make more like this

@Tom You should try swaping just the heatbreak, just the nozzle and all stock E3D with a nitride-boron heat paste. Also, but slightly harder to do, measure the nozzle and block temperature with external termocouple while extruding a set amount of material. It's not impossibly the difference in performance you're seeing is actually because copperhead simply gets to a higher temperature from secondary effects, say more loosely coupled termistor.

What a brilliant idea, taking advantage from the modular design! :D

2:14: that key drop ring ...

Thanks so much for the video Tom!

Is the Copper Head heater block the same size as the V6? If you want high temps with e3d, correct me if I'm wrong, you need to go Volcano. But then you have a longer heat block, which may or not be a good thing depending on flow rate needs.

I watched a number of videos on cleaning a hot end, but they all used the bowden tube to push it all the way through the heat block. With the Copperhead it wont allow the bowden tube to move all the way through. So how do you clean it, I looked for a bit but couldnt find a video Thanks

I think where the slice stuff really shines is in the high temp arena like pekk peek psu and so on having that extra 10 degrees C difference can be a much bigger deal at 360c on the hotend

Brass is abt 2x steel in thermal conductivity... not equal

Is there any video demonstrating the non stick properties of the nozzle X?

Thomas, have you ever experimented with PTFE coatings? Such as Miller Stephenson MS-122XD? I guess you can bake this coating above 600F and it becomes a permanent ptfe coating. Not sure how durable it is but I wonder if it would improve the wear of a hotend such as the copperhead or other hotends?

Tom, I appreciate you but i think you need to do a part 2 video. This video only compares the two hotends from the perspective of someone who only wants to print pretty chachkies in pla. While this is most of your viewers, I don't think it's the intended market for this hotend. I think this hotend is more geared toward being a budget alternative to the high temp/ engineering grade plastics hotends. So, How do the two hotends compare at high temps? What does the difference in heatsink Temps look like at elevated temp? Can you get away with not using a fan to cool the heatsink? P. S. While I agree initial hardness is important when evaluating nozzles, it's equally as important to understand how the hardness will change as the nozzles temper over time, this becomes even more important when printing high temp filled plastics.

You should also take a look at trianglelab dragon, I've used it for almost 6 months and it's really good

Sooo, can I put this on my Ender 3 Pro, without a ton of modding?

Indeed, hardened steel is certainly not equal to Brass. The NozzleX sounds fairly similar to that coated hardened steel nozzle and I needed to heat it up a bit for similar performance as with a brass nozzle.

wow! very helpful !! thanks Thomas..

I've used for the past 5 months the bimetal heatbreak from trianglelabs witch got for around 15 euro, and must say that is an awsome uptade for my original e3d v6, i used titan heatbreak before that and only print petg and i had some clogs with the titan heatbreak..with the bimetal one never had a problem!

Video was great! I want to see the upgrade for the V6 design. The successor from E3D.

I like the screws to hold the thermistors in. On mine, the head of the grub screw always gets stripped when trying to remove it, with e3d and all others heat blocks.

Doesn’t higher flow from a larger melt zone equal more ooze/stringing?

Thomas is back ❤️❤️❤️

Hi Thomas do I have to use the slice engineering boron nitride padte for holding the het brakevinside the hester block or can I use another paste.

can the copperhead be used insted of phatus dragon in the Voron 2.4 afterburner PIF parts?

I purchased a copperhead for my home built coreXY & I personally love it. I purchased the full basic kit groove mount kit. The only things I did not purchase was the fan. Since I put it together and pid tuned it I have not had to mess with it. I have not even had to clean filament off the nozzle. Maybe I have just been lucky with it so far and am glad if so. Only time will tell if it was truly worth it. I have already gone through a couple V6 hotends. If this copperhead last long enough then it definitely would have been worth it. I will say one annoying thing about it though. The thermal paste is a bit messy. For anyone that uses their thermal paste be mindful that in the tip of the syringe for it the paste will dry up and harden. Tale a needle and make sure to clear it out before you put any pressure bin trying to squeeze some out. If you don't that harder plug of the paste will pop out and the paste will ooze out quite fast. I had mine do that and it got all over the place. 🥴

i wonder if this could fix my clogs when i'm printing tpu wih my mmu2s on my mk3s. i've had such mixed results and i'm struggling hard to get a stable profile :(

I got the bimetal from triangular lab in my mini and it worked great.

@2:08 you casually remove the "Heat Break" from the heat block. It has no tooling on it (that I can see) How do you get that thing off?? I had to buy a whole new hot end because I didnt know how to remove the darn thing.

Thermistors would not measure above 250°C (as far as I know). The thermometer on the Copperhead must be a thermocouple. Is Marlin prepared to work with thermocouples?

Back to the basics review. I like it

The bi metal heat break seems like the first step for me just to increase the length of the heating zone. The old 60 mms is so slow. My printer just needs more heat to print petg consistently at 100 mms.

Thomas, I love your videos, they are super helpful and informative. Keep up the good work!

In my experience (with full copperhead) the flow rate rivals my volcano but has more control when changing temps (less overshoot). Still waiting on flows rates directly from slice on copperhead, I bet it’s close to mosquito. Also for the idex folks, with full copperhead, you can set height of each nozzle very easily and accurately.

It would be interesting to see if the differences still persist if the V6 got some of that fancy Thermal Paste.

Great review Tom ! You should compare the SE heat break to the Triangle Labs version 😀

I currently have on my MK3 the E3D plated copper heater block, E3D titanium heatbreak, and Spool3D Tungsten Carbide nozzle. I wonder if swapping the titanium heatbreak for the copperhead heatbreak would do anything for me. I do change nozzles, but only a few times per year only to change the orifice size (I have the TC nozzles in several different orifice diameters, but usually just use the 0.4mm one). I do occasionally print abrasive filaments (CF filled, metal filled, glow in the dark, etc). I'm planning on doing a PM tear-down soon (to also apply the MK3S+ upgrades) so that would be when I have the best opportunity to swap heatbreaks, especially since I plan on applying fresh thermal compound as part of my PM activities. Side thought... I wonder if copper based anti-seize compound would be a good replacement for the standard boron nitride white stuff. Need to look up how well the carrier fluid in anti-seize holds up to high temperatures... I do have some arctic silver lying around, but again I don't know how well that stuff holds up to 300°C+ temperatures...

Did you ever compare the E3D heatbreak with Microswiss Twinclad XT?

You'd still have to buy the heatsink if you have the stock Creality hotend though, there's no way to fit the Copperhead block to a Creality heatsink. Had someone go and measure the measurements of both hotends and their respective blocks and heatbreaks and they don't fit. They will work with a V6 heatsink though.

Would like to see a follow-up with the titanium heat break for the V6 or hemera

Good review, however I wonder is the Volcano and Nozzle X would be a better comparison.

thank you for the review

why wouldn't copperhead hotend (only the hotend) work on Hemera? I thought Hemera uses v6 style threading on the hotend side; since it uses v6 and can use volcano hotend also.

Now the question is, do any of these fit on my Anycubic Kobra Max?

Stupid heatbreak stay put already! Might be time to level that table out for videos like this lol

Wonderful video

Hi Tom, have you ever reviewed the FELIX 3D printers (NL)

12:12 you have a leak. usually the nozzle and throat need to meet in the middle of the heatblock and need to fit perfectly onto each other to seal it, because the thread is not sealing anything... Thats why I use actually a self made block of steel to be able to tighten the nozzle more (aluminium and copper/brass threads may wear out quickly or break at the tension that I use to tighten it)

Where can i get the gcode for that flow/speed cube?

The flowrate of the v6 you compared must be limited by the heating cartridge; since the other limits (thermal tranfer through nozzle and heater block) are not improved. So only buy a better heater cartridge for to get higher flowrate. By the your controller board an firmware has to support the higher current/voltage of the new heater cartridge even if you buy it as a set.

I watched a level of thermal paste being used that rivaled the install of the heatsink in The Verge's gaming PC build video. This might come back to bite you. At least you got your "Needs More Thermal Paste" merit badge :D

While it is nice to see companies like E3D making good parts that are priced for the home user, it's definitely time to see companies making high-end parts for more commercial applications, where there is more budget available. I think Slice will successfully push this envelope, and I can't wait to see what they do next.

Where can i download the 2d documentation?

the heater block looks really nice

2:14 That "ring" was so satisfying ^^

Thanks for all your work and insights on this wonderful video. I understand your points on the cost in comparison but $180 is not a lot of money. Second, isn't the copperhead really for high temp materials?

I thing it is a professional tool: if you have money and want to print with exotic filaments go on and buy a coperhead. But an e3d V6 suits all of my and the most people's needs, I don't print with PEEK, PEI and other exotic filament.

0:36 Thomas so bada** he rolls sleeves down when work starts. Thanks for all you've done for 3D printing!

2:13 outch Sound incoming xD. that one hurts in the ears

Wait till you add the dyze design extruder to it. It's the ultimate hotswap. Best upgrade I have ever done

The magic is the heatbreak. Install it on a V6 and u get the same perf. Remember to get V6 copper to go over 300c

when will they do same to the heating element. Element around nozzle, and heat is more even, and instantanious.

5:05 why would you want good heat transfer between the heater and a thermal break?

hope to see more mod videos for hotter temps on ender 3 v2

Copperhead is PEEK (or any polymer) at higher flow rates. Combine with a CHT nozzle for best performance.

Is this compatible with e3d hemera?

You should try out the triangle labs dragon hot end, its probably the best one I have tried

There are bimetal heatbreaks available on Aliexpress, they've certainly been there for several months, but not sure how long before then - search "copper heatbreak" and you'll find them for most styles of hotend.

Great review, challenging Jeff today ey?

Du zitierst JACKFRAGS?! Consider me impressed! And since this is youtube: I like the outro.

what about Dyze hotend?

My prusa mk3 is giving me major heat issues. I feel like at this point, I've done everything software wise that can be done and ruled out the slicer. I downloaded cura and sliced a benchy with the same settings as prusaslicer. It didn't complete. 30 minutes into the print was clicking from the extruder and nothing coming out. I was already printing at 220 and bumped it to 240. The clicking stopped and the filament started again but maybe 40 or so minutes after that CLICKING AGAIN. And no filament was coming out. 240 is way too hot to maintain for PLA IMO. Over the past couple of weeks, I've swapped out the nozzle, reapplied thermal paste, releveled the bed, first line is perfect, PID tuning, tons of tweaks in prusaslicer to profiles, different filament, printing from a drybox, replaced the PTFE tube, tried different models, printed from SD Card and not octoprint. I'm sure something else I'm missing. So basically I would hope something like this or the mosquito would fix the issue. When a print does complete, there's often missing layers, looks like layer separation (gaps in the line) I've had my prusa 3 years so I guess it's time to replace parts. Trying to get it to a mks+ but can't get parts to complete.

It's nice of them to put some effort into improving the hotends and follow thru with some other ideas that E3D may not have had or have abandoned for reasons. It just seems to me that the return of investment with Slice Engineering designs is always very bad. Maybe they will find a good middleground at some point, offering improvements that seem to be worth the money spent.

That wrench is in tune

I would be interested to see a comparison to the nova hotend. i've seen some pretty amazing videos of that and it would be interesting to compare several of the more expensive options.

4:49 the heat carterage will expand when heated, probably engineered so the expansion will remove the gap

would be interesting to compare the E3D copper Heatblock VS this Slice engineering compound stuff I have the E3D copper heatblock and it works perfectly in any situation

I would go hemera option for this price.

I'm so glad I'm a CNC machinist. 😉

@ThomasSanladerer I think it’s time for a hotend showdown! Mosquito, copperhead, E3D V6, Revo. Bonus test the E3D Hemera vs the Bondtech/Slice copperhead setup for extruder/hotend combos.

is it weird i just have boron nitride laying around?

was just about to warn about getting the boron nitrate paste into the hotend bore... then at 10:24 the results of that happening were uncovered and you addressed it.

Please test titan heatbreaks!

TBF, I believe Slice Engineering Copperhead pricing has come down quite a bit. Currently, for the kind of money you're talking about, one can buy their very highest top end Mosquito Magnum water cooled.

Hello Tom my name is Daniel and I own my own Manufacturing business with cnc machines. I have been following your channel for years and used your videos tp get started wi 3d printing

Like for the parts rolling all over the place and Tom not flipping out.