Can you also publish a guide for 4v owners on how to fix any identified issues? Thanks.

To be fair, Artillery and pretty good with communication with their customers.

Engineers 🤣🤣

Wow... I kind of feel cheated. So many 3D print hobbyists on KZfaq were very very positive. I've had the machine (V4) since June - and got it exactly because I'm not an electrician. Pretty much plug-and-play, it seemed. Now I'm kind of scared of turning it on TBH. Yeah... I feel cheated.

@@rhysdavis2852 Yea, This was my first printer which I purchased over a year ago. I do not have these problems and it prints great. If you spend a few minutes on their facebook page, you can learn what to do quickly, like printing strain relief guides and other things. I have been to a lot of 3D printer facebook pages and it seems all 3d printers have many issues that you will sometimes have to print extra pieces to correct and the X1 seemed to have the least amount of issues. (they do have a legit ribbon issue but I also read up on that ahead of time and corrected my ribbon so it would not come out of its socket and short), No problems after a year of use.

@@iBert0 - I found a design I liked on Thingiverse. Just go to that site and search for "sidewinder strain relief". You'll have several options to choose from. I suggest also adding a cable chain or something similar. For me, since I was already pulling the print somewhat apart in order to replace the bed heater, I ran a piece of filament inside the cable sleeve along side the power and thermistor cables. I don't know how long this solution will last, but so far so good.

Same here.. I saw All the great Reviews.. but Mine is pure pain .. good to know that this Thing is a timebomb

For example extrem Z-Wobble after 150 mm build hight. The Partcoolingfan is doing a extrem anoing Sound during printing. The printbed was absoluty Not flat and my prints didnt Stick Well to the printsurface. The Firmware is so Bad adjusted (for example so linear advaced enabled) the time in Spend in this printer to fix all the Problems i Had is to much for 400 €. I own 3 printers and this Thing was Out of the Box the worst one. (Sorry for my bad english)

@3D Print Wrangler I can operate a 3D printer and have successfully done so. I've owned a Monoprice Maker Select v2 for almost 5 years, maintained it, upgraded it, and know it inside and out. It just is not available for me at the moment. When I said they sent parts "without any concern about my ability" it doesn't mean I dont have the ability. I asked for documentation and all they said was "mark the cables". I know I can figure out how to replace the motherboard, but what I want is to figure out the actual root of the problem so I can have peace of mind and avoid it in the future. I'm sure that I could figure it out, however the faster the better because I don't have as much time as I used to these days. I sent them pictures and a detailed description of the issue. They didn't ask for pictures of the motherboard, log files, or any sort of diagnostics on my end. It's taking weeks to get the parts and we don't even know if this will actually solve the problem since the new motherboard may have the same issue. I asked them if this was a known issue that they had solved in the new motherboard and did not get an answer. So yeah... its ok to send parts for a year old machine if you're going to work with the consumer, but if you're not going to solve the issue and aren't willing to at least gove some details so it can be prevented, then I dont think its unreasonable to ask for a replacement. This printer was my first upgrade. The maker select was sold and and marketed as something you would tinker with. The X1 was sold as something that was pretty much good to go with all these safety features, so the expectations are different. Then of course you use the machine for almost a year and trust the safety features will hold while you eat your lunch in your own house 2h into a print. Of course it wouldn't likely have burnt my house down because I take precautions like running it only when I'm home and checking the octoprint every so often, and I have a fire extinguisher on hand, but the fact that it wash starting to burn means that there was a very real risk if I hadn't taken those precautions like many people would.

I would never leave ANY 3D printer made in China in a room working while no one is around to keep an eye on it..well, that goes for any electronics made in China. I even unplug my printer from the wall when It completes printing and I'm done with it. Glad you caught it in time.

@3D Print Wrangler Mabye you could use some of the arguments if the printer was a kit, and even then I would think some of your points would still be a long bow to draw. They are sending out dangerous products and putting it on the user to fix them if there are issues to boot. As for no other manufacturer would replace - Im pretty sure my Aldi would (where I got mine) but then again they aren't about to burn my house down either.

@3D Print Wrangler watch Tom's unboxing video ( kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bc6TndaLt6jZp6c.html ) the link will start at around 15:10. He talks about the heat bed cable. You can see the type of sleve he has on it and how the cable is kinking. This is the style that I have and that I think the majority of the people have. You can see that it is a coated braided sleve. IMO it is the coating that kills the braid. This is why I say that the PET braid would be better.

follow-up... take it apart and use the parts to make a well designed strong printer yourself...

@3D Print Wrangler Really??? I have (had) 2 of them. Yes, more then the 400 you mean even, almost 500 here. Also have helped 'restoring to work' a couple of others here in the Netherlands and Belgium. Yes, better then Creality in many regards in electrical problems, but 'no indicents'? Maybe not reported in for example the States and since here in Europe we are mainly responsible for our own stuff we have to fix it ourselves or throw them away. Also I have been following the forums and did a review of these printers myself. Some are earthed, some are not, bed-heaters coming loose from the buildplate: plenty. Shortconnects in the bedheater-cables: here in contacts near me: twice. Luckily we have very strict rules in Europe for the electrical systems so no-one was killed for as far as I know and no house burned down because of this. Other issues like melting ribbon cables: quite normal after a while. Just need to replace them regularly or change the system and or the subboards. 'Burning PSU'? I had two and some others have had more. But many problems can also be related to we in Europe have between 230 and 240 Volt as an official voltage and have different beds and settings on the PSU's. I have seen and have had in my hands all mayor versions from start to the beginning of this year. Since Corona-virus makes it almost impossible to visit other people and limits my time more, so there might be yet another change after the start of this year that makes them better but still have messages every time about electrical problems with this modells. Yes, in my experience better then Creality but still many issues. I threw all of my Crealities away, only used in parts and one of my modified sidewinders (other PSU, extra 24 V. bed with PSU, other cabling to the nozzle-heater, stabilizers) is running nicely here mostly every day. Yes, it was a strange feeling and smell a good year ago when the PSU of one decided to melt and make special noises, actually the second original PSU from Evnovo that was. Also needed new stepperdrivers, new mainboard later because of other faults in those parts.

Can you send me a link for the pei Building plate you used?

I too have a mid/late 2019 model, and I too printed strain reliefs for the bed cable, and also for the ribbon cables. No problems with those so far. I've been a lot happier with this machine than with a Creality CR-10 S Pro that I had for a while.

I'm also interested in the PEI build plate.

Yes please post the link for the pei build plate

Yes please post

And don't put your fingers inside the printer or the power supply if you don't know exactly what you are doing.

You are completely right. Tom should pin this

Yes, the ce is pretty much just a declaration that the manufacturer or seller claims it fulfills the ce criteria. If a product has a ce marking on it but doesn't meet the criteria then the maximum penalty is three months in jail and a £5,000 fine for the director of the offending company. If they get caught. The real kicker is that the product may not be sold in eu after that. If they get caught. Also the sellers have a legal responsibility to ensure that all relevant goods they sell have appropriate CE marking. In the UK, the penalty for supplying non-compliant products is imprisonment or a fine. If they get caught. So I wouldn't say it is meaningless. If you trust the product maker enough to buy their product then you can trust the ce marking as well and assume they have done the work to meet the criteria. The ce marking does have its issues when chinese companies can get around a lot of the penalties and checks by just selling hardware to the eu area from china. And with world wide ordering and shipping of consumer devices the ce becomes hard to enforce.

@@erwinlommer197 If you see the incorrect CE marking then it’s a good indicator that the manufacturer hasn’t even looked at the requirements for CE. Chinese manufacturers often copy everything on a product. I used to work for a company that made fan heaters (amongst many electrical items), and some reps came back from China with fake heaters complete with the company logo on the knock-off switches because they assumed it was some form of safety declaration. (Spoiler: they were very unsafe indeed.)

You can download the CE logo from the European site, going true it myself it's one of the first things mentioned. Like Thomas shows there is only 1 correct logo and all others are considerd fake Chinese stamps. Tells the story about how much they care🤔

@@rhysdavis2852 The existence of an "early" printer with the same name and markings is itself an issue. Phantom revisions are common in chinese printers and are a terrible practice for consumer safety and the reliability of received products. If it is true that there is a newer v4 it would only reinforce that artillery has no issues changing aspects mid-production without alerting the public. While I agree that might make some complaints invalid, I don't think it would affect the final recommendation status.

Also if you would like to see some more in depth i got 2 vids from the X1 if you like

@@NoizieWorks link please would love to check it out. I have the SX1 v4 and so far so good

Try to laminate with the same parameters but creating a custom printer profile, you will see that the printing time is drastically reduced. There is something wrong with the 3D Nexus print profiles that makes the prints too long.

Yea seems like he wasn't excited about the printer from the start, all the positives you list are why I got this over many other printers with similar features at higher prices. I haven't run tons of prints on it but after the simple assembly and basic bed leveling its been printing like a champ. Also I dont see the power cable issues Toms unit has but that will be good to watch out for.

@@Zayllyaz for the bed to cable connection there is a strain relief part on thingiverse, I highly recommend printing it if you haven't.

I get the thing about hot glue "securing" connectors, but it is an absolute pain in the a** to get it off if you want to f.ex. update the TFT firmware (which I have done on the Artillery Genius). So ihmo it is a tradeoff that's not really worth it, but it probably saves them some support time.

I'd second this, but I still consider my X1 a "learning project". When I got it, I was expecting to improve it - hobby is hobby... But for 375 Eur, I was not expecting an original prusa with larger volume. Since May, I have about 10 rolls down the extruder... Problems: - uneven bed -> changed to aluminium bed - kinked cable -> exchanged all bed cables for longer ones and modified the construction, so if cannot knick any more - tracks and a flexible support outside - Suddenly heavy underextrusion -> mechanics were ok... final solution: updated Slicer. That's it Sofar, I have heavily modified it (2 Firmware updates, checked all electronics out of the box, braces to stabilize the Z-Frame, aluminium bed, Flex-Plate... Best tuning result for me: Firmware update with 3x3 Mesh leveling. ABL will be next. A friend's Genius also got similarly updated and the printing quality is great. Honestly, I love the quiet and that I can print really acceptable at speeds over 80mm/s, but if I look into the total expenses, I could have bought a Prusa. I' do not regret it, as I was expecting what I got. @Tom, thanks for the great review, I'll use the weekend and check it out again :)

You will not see wear on the bed heater cable. The wire will break inside of its jacket. This can cause a high resistance area, which could rapidly heat up and burn. My bed heater wire broke, thankfully no sparks or apparent burning, but from the outside the cable looked completely fine. I figured it out with a continuity tester.

Shill detected

Yup, but they didn't go in-depth with the electrical connections. Given the printer's ability to produce good prints, the large area, and relatively low price it's still really good in my opinion. Even the electrical part is better than a lot of random Chinese printers out there, like my previous delta lol

Other youtubers mentioned that their units were grounded and there are even some vids showing this. I am not saying Thomas is wrong. Envovo likes to iterate on their printers without saying anything about it, and there could have been some downgrades in quality.

@@NullNamos I did measure resistance to ground on the unboxing livestream - it doesn't make contact on mine. They are trying to ground the frame through the powder coating, which sometimes works, sometimes doesn't, but it's definitely not the proper way to do things. @Lucas Abdala @ManikWeet The other reviews may very well have been accurate for the units they received - but it looks like Evnovo are constantly making changes to the printer, some for better, some for worse. That, in itself, is an issue because you never know what you're going to get. Considering some of the poor design choices that were made on the X1 I received, it's got me questioning Evnovo's general approach to quality control and reliability testing.

@@MadeWithLayers yeah that's kinda suspicious 😬 They also made a video about quality control issues and demonstrated their quality controll, but I guess they haven't really learned from those complaints as demand started to rise again! 🤔

@@MadeWithLayers Yes, that is a real pain on these kind of printers. I have (had) a couple of those printers, from earlier runs but of course with the same name and numbers on them. Both were earthed well over the PSU and did not have this issue with the bad bedcable like yours have but much better flexible sleeving. Did have more issues with the ribbon-cable (boards) though and other electronics-problems. Actually, one is in parts and used for other printers and the other has been changed for a lot, including electronics, extra 24V heated bed (external Power-supply) for the full bedsize and such to make it a very well working 3d printer with a .8 nozzle. .8 works really well including PETG, it has an extra-capacity-hotend heater (stock) and can run well with a 1.2 mm nozzle as well but then the speed needs to be lower because of the clone-extruder. So, it might be a nice starting-printer to build on further yourself. but not too well when stock like you mention. Thanks for the review, keep them coming please.

Works fine for me too! But only with Prusa slicer. Cura creates wierd small layer shifts. Have it since last year Christmas.

@@allcrafter3747 Huh, I've been using Cura without much issue at all - PLA, PETG, and ABS. I've been using Angus' profile imported into Cura (I think) with a few acceleration tweaks and it's worked wonderfully.

@@alekz0987 Gonna try this profile

Same here

Yes plz!! I just bought one from Amazon and this video causes me so much anxiety. I feel so bad about myself for missing this video before hand.

That describes my bedroom...

Hot glue isnt a bad thing, as it can make sure plugs dont become undone in transit - but it shouldn't be the primary connection method of mismatch plugs...like wtf they cost almost nil (the plugs)

Exactly what I thought too. Crowned with that dodgy forged "certificate". Some people might get a nasty wake up after insurance company refuses to cover fire damage caused by non-certified machine. Even worse, they often jeopardize other people (e.g. neighbors,etc...), not just themselves...

Thats crazy, I have used mine for maybe 4 months and I got an error with the heated bed, likely due to either bed cable that moves in the back, or the motherboard. Many people also have this issue. Thats how I know how to fix it.... But unfortunately for me I didnt begin using my printer immediately after I bought it so its out of warranty.

Then please tell us how to figure out the latest "Revision". AFAIK he has the "V4" because of the reset button beside the TFT. That is the newest Revision i know of, by watching almost every YT Video available on this printer. When i buy at a reseller right now, it seems to be a blackjack game, which development level i get, without knowing how to figure out, what Revision they are selling to me or having laying around in a warehouse.

Would be great if you could put out a formal response on what you've done or provide Tom with a production updated machine for review?

I had to open mine up to repair it and I must say the electronics are wired quite mickey mouse. The cables are crimped inside and no heat shrink used. Also they hot glued all the cables to the motherboard. Very suspect.

That is also something I came across and bought the SW like a year ago. Other youtubers even mentioned, that their units are grounded. Just checked my SW bed cable and it is way more flexible than Tom's. There was a change in v4 to another kind of nozzle and maybe other parts were downgraded, too.

First of all you could easily ground the frame of the printer, that would be a great start. The cabling for the bed can be replaced with silicone wire that bends better, or at least figure out a way to make the cables flex around the whole cable instead of certain points, perhaps with a cable chain. Replacing connectors with proper ones would be a possibility but if they're make good contact and are secured with hot glue, I wouldn't start messing with it. It's super sloppy but it's not going to set your house on fire.

There is one step you should do on every printer with AC bed: Use a residual current circuit breaker. There are cables available there these protection is integrated. The problem with maybe causing fire due to the heatbed cable is not solved by this. The best in my opinion is to let it be changed to a cable like used on an iron. Be aware in some contrys working with AC is not allowed without formal certificarion (beeing an electrican or electro engeneer). For example in Germany it is a high risk you take: If you do modifications on AC, you be responsible 30 years. In civil law, as you did something illegal, you have to proof you did everything alright if someone get hurt (there was just auch a decission on a German court). Also in the EU the importeur is count as "manufacturer". So not only risk customs keeps the product - If you sell it after a few years (or even gift it to someone) you be responsible as producer. No way to avoid it, No way arround - exept dissassembling it and sell the parts (exept for the AC parts). By the way: Any kit you assemble also makes you "manufacturer". So do not give it away... There is obviously a reason Tom made a teardown of a functional printer he does not use anymore. He also lives in Germany...

What I'd do to my specific unit is to replace the entire heated bed assembly - glass with no heatspreader is a poor choice to start with. I'd also look into replacing or at least reworking the internal cabling and electronics. Keep in mind that apparently other X1 units are built differently (that is, better or worse) in the spots I found.

The V4 is the newest version.

CR10 is out of stoneage. Artillery much more refined but not without problems. I think it's a good printer.

It's not just some "imperfections". Not following CE compliance rules and non existing safety standards with mains voltage handling/wiring are a sure way to get your machine banned from the market, at least in europe. I am pretty sure that the FCC logo for the US market is protected by laws too, and you can't just slap that on your product and think nobody will get back to you at some point. Maybe you just don't care about safety and certifications right now, and thats fine. I just hope nobody gets hurt, or killed, once that machine shows it's true evil potential...

You have really not payed attention to this video if that's your opinion...

Jesus arent you a special snoflake huh? Next time write your will and testament too.

Thank you ❤️

@@Prusa3D But please speed up design of the planed big size printer... I by the way prefer the mk3 over the mk3s. The problems with old filament sensor were only caused by PET-G being reflective, so inside the sensors chamber was to much irritating light. The old sensor work great after printing the printhead from non-reflective Greentec pro filament.. So I do not like the downgrade from mk3 to mk3s...

wtf, ender 3 is one of the best printers in 3d printer history. You understand what you are saying? I mean, Prusa is good, but you cant just be racist.

@@Wraith-KryptosCalm down. Ender 3 is good for the price and Creality seems to be one of the better Chinese brands. But it have had its share of issues from time to time as well, depending on the batch, contracted manufactures etc (for example: there was some issue with some Creality machine having bad connectors for a batch a few years ago, don't remeber if it was Ender or not. And I have heard of quite a few Ender 3 being delivered with warped beds). And that is the issue with many of these import machines, including the Artilliery: quality varies and you don't quite know what you will get.

@@Wraith-Kryptos Its fiddly and cheap. Its popular for its super low cost. The Prusa or Lulzbot are superior. I have owned all 3.