Small correction on the NordVPN integration by someone who actually knows this stuff: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jbx0hKigypy-h40.html
@cowboyboots99014 жыл бұрын
Are you doing a video on building that uv light?
@Tabaskuh3 жыл бұрын
Nice Hoodie, what brand is it if I may ask?
@mrpreston82303 жыл бұрын
@@Tabaskuh Naketano
@oscarbraque3 жыл бұрын
vpn are a scam anyway. You naughty youtuber.
@seastruck54103 жыл бұрын
ID on that sweater?
@thenormanfair4 жыл бұрын
When someone tells me something is safe because it is "all natural" I remind them that asbestos is all natural.
@Runoratsu4 жыл бұрын
And Uranium. And Ricin. And botulinum toxin. And…
@chris7465684624 жыл бұрын
Oil, coal and gas are too... Probably the most polluting than everything else.
@bertieblob33874 жыл бұрын
It's cheaper than my first FDM printer was... Oh dear. Why do I feel you have made up my mind for me? Am I really that weak?
@Sembazuru4 жыл бұрын
Also Nightshade, Hemlock, poison ivy, poison oak, many/most toadstools, etc... Face it, nature just wants to kill us.
@Krmpfpks4 жыл бұрын
Don’t forget poison mushrooms. They are natural and plant based doesn’t mean anything either.
@WhereNerdyisCool4 жыл бұрын
I'm glad you mentioned the hazardous waste aspect of these types of machines. People seem to gloss over not only the health dangers of the resin, but the by products of processing the prints.
@mrtee34774 жыл бұрын
Resin is made out of urethane which only low VOC can be use in california.
@connorjensen96994 жыл бұрын
I kept having trouble with my prints being upside down, I am so glad you showed me a solution in this video. Now I just have to figure out who keeps inverting my spoons...
@MarcRochkind3 жыл бұрын
Until I saw this video, with its amazing solution, I was fixing the upside-down problem in Photoshop. It works, but Tom's idea is so much better!
@TheFujin3 жыл бұрын
There is no spoon
@pappab00m652 жыл бұрын
@@TheFujin YES!!!
@delsydsoftware4 жыл бұрын
I love my Elegoo Mars printer, but I did run into a pretty serious flaw 2 weeks into using it. The FEP film on the bottom of the print tray can get stuck to the LCD from suction when printing large parts. During one long print, I heard a pop and the display showed an error citing LCD issues. It turns out that the FEP film had gotten stuck to the LCD, and when the print arm tried to raise the print between layers, it actually yanked the LCD out of the machine by about a cm, which also destroyed the ribbon cable attached to the LCD. I returned the printer for a new one, and also found out that most people prevent this sticking by putting a thin layer of scotch or masking tape along the left and right edges of the LCD, so that the FEP can never fully stick. Since adding the tape, I haven't had another problem, but it's definitely something to be aware of.
@silverbullet1264 жыл бұрын
I saw the tape mod on some random review video; sure it's saved me from having this issue. Good info for new buyers for sure though.
@ddegn4 жыл бұрын
I tried to order an Elegoo Mars printer last week but they were all sold out. I just checked again and they're in stock. I should receive the printer on Tuesday. I'll make sure and use some tape so I don't have the FEP film problem. Thanks for warning us. Do you guys know which resin will produce the strongest parts? I'm hoping to print robot parts.
@delsydsoftware4 жыл бұрын
@@ddegn I've been using their Gray ABS-Like resin, and it's pretty strong. I'm not sure that it's as strong as ABS, but it's definitely stronger than the translucent resin I've used.
@ddegn4 жыл бұрын
@@delsydsoftware I just checked my order and I had included a bottle their Gray ABS-Like resin. I'll be able to test it out when the printer arrives. Thanks for reply.
@nick674304 жыл бұрын
Wow, that's pretty bad. At least, you were able to return it. I'm using an Anycubic Photon which works just like the Mars (afaik), now I'm a little worried. Gonna google if that's also an issue with the Photon.
@BradfordNeedham4 жыл бұрын
Dealing with the chemicals sounds like a pain, but not very different from a number of other Maker media: woodworking (finishes, strippers, and some wood species' sawdusts are toxic), olde-tyme photography (various developers), working with metals such as antique clocks and jewelry (lead and other toxic metals), even dollmaking (ceramic dust can damage your lungs). My rules of thumb for any Making are: Find non-toxic alternatives when possible; strictly follow the safety instructions; read the warnings on the Material Safety Data Sheets; consider the impact on the planet as well has your home. Thanks for the very informative video!
@4shrivers4 жыл бұрын
That is a great philosophy....👍
@veegee24 Жыл бұрын
Wtf are you talking about? When do you use lead in metalworking?
@veegee24 Жыл бұрын
@@BradfordNeedham Yeah, that's not really metalworking. It's also not toxic unless you eat it.
@3amali14 жыл бұрын
Tom, glad you mentioned those resins are nasty, but really there has to be some emphasis that they are TOXIC in the monomer state. So when those are still liquid they are really toxic long term. I noticed many KZfaqrs under estimate that. Those acrylic resins become totally safe once totally polymerised but before being really cured they are really toxic.
@uk0bach4 жыл бұрын
the lines appear when the resin doesnt fully detach from the fep, you can change how much the thing lifts form the fep when it finishes a layer
@UncleJessy4 жыл бұрын
Nice man! Excited to see you working with the Elegoo Mars! My fav resin printer at the moment.
@Gamex9964 жыл бұрын
"shito-box" just amazing
@ZappyOh4 жыл бұрын
I predict a renaming coming up. How about PizzPrint, or LiquidCrap?
@jackjhonson57574 жыл бұрын
Elegoo illegal-o
@Laerun3 жыл бұрын
Ahahahahaha, everytime he said it!
@buurman26353 жыл бұрын
chi tu bed
@abileneaugie89613 жыл бұрын
My cat uses it. But we don’t own a sla printer.
@Nachmed4 жыл бұрын
2:33 /* This printer, actually, prints all your parts upside down. But you can just flip them, once they done. */ Quite useful advice! :) Thanks, Tom!
@Zeriel004 жыл бұрын
I was about to flip my printer upside down, I'm glad I heard this brilliant advice! xD
@Swayzee683 жыл бұрын
😆🤣😆🤣
@jesondag4 жыл бұрын
The best tip I've ever used is to do the final cure with the part submerged in water. It prevents oxygen from reaching the part, which prevents the outer surface from curing fully.
@edumaker-alexgibson3 жыл бұрын
Could you describe your setup a little please?
@johnwig2852 жыл бұрын
But water is made up of.... nevermind fam
@cassie.m.07234 жыл бұрын
EXTREMELY comprehensive video, thank you so much. I've been thinking about getting an elegoo mars, but after watching this, while I still like the concept, I think a filament printer will be a better option for me. Thank you for this thorough look into the product!
@johncabrer23284 жыл бұрын
My experience with resin printers Has taught me that it is not so much the hardware but the resin and resin settings that contribute to great parts or failed parts.
@GMCLabs4 жыл бұрын
Really depends on what you're trying to do. If your into miniatures and strength isn't the priority resin is the best way to go. I got into metal casting, and for making small detailed things like coins, resin definalty has advantages, like you don't need to sand, prime, paint, and sand again to get rid of layer lines. If your trying to make functional parts, FDM is the way to go, many more strong material choices. But resins are getting better and you are starting to see more options like, tuff resinsand even flexible resins.
@WilliamCasolare4 жыл бұрын
Wow - this was great! I've got (2) Mars units and (3) Ender 3's in my "farm" and I was definitely concerned at what the verdict here would be. This video was straightforward, honest, and impartial. Also - thank you so much for responsibly discussing the safety piece. So many other content creators are glossing over it or dismissing it. One of the downsides of bringing these printers to the mass-affordable segment is that so many people are expressing their "opinions" on the resin and that "It's fine, it's never affected me." As you said in the video, it isn't a question of "if" there will be a problem, rather when that problem will arise. There are serious long term concerns if you don't protect yourself from exposure to absorption of the uncured material.
@asive76122 жыл бұрын
What’s your ventilation system like? And do you rent a property to hold all your resin printers?
@WilliamCasolare2 жыл бұрын
@@asive7612 I run a negative pressure cabinet for my resin units that vents outside. The cabinet is in a negative pressure room where all my other FDM printers reside. Makeup air comes from an intake on the opposite side of the house.
@jirij4 жыл бұрын
One of the reasons why Elegoo Mars stood out is that it was the first 1440p "very cheap" MSLA printer in a sea of 1080p ones (that many others YT channels reviewed). It doesn't sound like much, but the difference is very noticeable.
@paulhunter1232 жыл бұрын
what does 1400p mean im new to this
@darkfur18 Жыл бұрын
@@paulhunter123 These printers use repurposed LCD screens (like the one on your phone). 1440p resolution > 1080p resolution.
@mcs33173 жыл бұрын
I came for the printer, now i want your sweater, thats so my style
@Mando_Kor4 жыл бұрын
I am absolutely in love with my resin SLA printer. I have an Epax X1 that is very similar to the Mars, it has a few ease of living items (factory bed plate leveling, no need to ever level it again, that type of thing), but both of them are light years better than an FDM printer for miniatures and high detail items.
@henrycatt58444 жыл бұрын
You've answered all my questions re. resin printing plus informed me of a load of details I wasn't aware of. Thank you so much.
@Jargas1014 жыл бұрын
I just ordered an Ender 3 pro and was wondering if i should have gotten a resin printer since I plan to do a lot of minitures. After watching this video I'm damn sure I made the right choice. Didn't know there was so much hassle and toxicity to resin print
@NorthernKitty4 жыл бұрын
From a detail perspective, a resin printer certainly wins hands down. But you can get still get some pretty nice prints from FDM printers like the Ender 3. There are a LOT of tips out there on KZfaq for doing this, if you haven't discovered them yet already. Personally, I'm willing to put in a little bit more effort in my settings and sacrifice a little bit of detail to avoid the mess and hazards of resins, so I tend to think you made the right choice. I don't print miniatures, but I do like to print small things with detail, and I'm very satisfied with the Ender 3 Pro. (Quick edit:) Oh, and I should add, printing with filament gives you a TON more choices both in colors and materials. Resin printing has a lot of catching up to do in that regard.
@traxfpv3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for this very thorough overview. I was curious but now seeing what is all involved, I dont think its something I want to get involved with right now! Keep up the great work!
@potatojz384 жыл бұрын
With resin printers, you need to have a use for it. Like minis for example, your not going to get the quality and speed with FDM compared to resin. You CAN get good FDM minis but with the expense of time, where you could print a whole plate full in the same time as a single one. (Assuming the z height is the same) it has many advantages in that respect. For larger or strength required parts, FDM wins all day everyday. Resin is very brittle even tho it has a high tensile strength. For me I mostly print minis and arts and crafty things so resin is amazing. The details are epic, not having to sand as much (just supports) is absolutely worth the added expense over FDM for post processing. The wash set-up, I see non-issue with Ikea containers vs some ridiculously overpriced container system, like the forms station. There's no way you can justify spending that much money for what it does. There just containers... And you can print a mount to hold the plate in the bath. Which also is a great way to cut down on mess and gloves. I do agree they should supply a proper curing light but that would be added cost and it easy to source a cheap UV light setup. I simply transfer my plate onto amount and let it soak in a container without even using a glove, because I'm only touching the knob to unbolt the plate from the printer. I only wear when handling uncured prints or cleaning. Rubber reusable kitchen gloves are also a much better solution to wasting hundreds of gloves. The smell I also found varies per brand of resin and by the person. I personally am not slightly bothered by the smell. I smell way worse at work lol but that's my opinion (and many others) my gf HATES when I print ABS filament and says it stinks but has never said anything about the resin. Ultimately it depends what you wanna make/print. I personally like having both resin and FDM printers. Miniatures and small detail items are great in resin and larger prints in FDM. I recently made a Rick Sanchez mask and printed all in PLA and printed the eyes in resin as I KNEW the hole would be an issue with FDM or require some post processing. Where the resin eyes came out flawless. You can't really say one's better than the other when they both have their own strengths and weaknesses.
@ilikenothingtoo4 жыл бұрын
Careful shaking the resin, every brand I've used ends up leaking at the cap. I use a paper towel wrapped around the top whenever I shake it.
@chethammer4 жыл бұрын
You should have far more subscribers than you do. Your channel is one of my go to's on 3d printing. I bought a Prusa MK3S after watching your videos on it and it was possibly the best choice. I even sat through hours (and hours) of your homemade Prusa. Thanks Tom. Much appreciated.
@MyName-tb9oz4 жыл бұрын
"Sample size: Two." ROFLMAO! That little quip was hilarious.
@Thorhian4 жыл бұрын
I'd love to see you extensively review the Prusa SL1 and the Curing/Washing machine. I think Prusa was trying to make the process as easy as possible (of course you still have to get resin in and out of the machine).
@goldbunny19734 жыл бұрын
It shouldn't be to difficult to design a system that keeps light out of the resin/printing area yet still lets us top-up & remove the print safely. I think designers need to stop copying each other & obsessing over appearance as this is the Enemy of Well Designed Invention.
@SenorRu4 жыл бұрын
Little off topic but with plastic and resin printers being so common, I wonder why no home solutions for powder based printing. It sounds like it has some benefits like not needing to print supports and a lot of materials.
@PaulojnPereira4 жыл бұрын
Disclaimer : "No SLA parts were fatally injured during the presentation of Nord VPN"
@tomcypher38644 жыл бұрын
Free idea for resin printer manufacturers: make a compartment at the bottom of the printer for curing parts with the same UV LED.
@Man-kk3bn4 жыл бұрын
YES! I spent 60 hours printing a curing enclosure with a tevo tornado
@cil7ea4 жыл бұрын
Hi Thomas. I love your videos. Could you please film with a more wider depth of field next time you show printed parts? The DOF is so narrow that I just can't see the quality of the print very well. Keep it up!
@user-kk4yd7ms1j4 жыл бұрын
must use all aperture... need moooore bokeh :D
@FJB2024_4 жыл бұрын
@@user-kk4yd7ms1j bokeh man bad
@joeperch44864 жыл бұрын
Until recently, I have had ZERO interest in resin printing. Now, with the significant price drop, I am considering making a purchase. However, Tom hit on one thing I had never even considered: proper disposal of waste products. I don't know why I had not considered this. But I didn't until he mentioned it in this video. Does anyone know of a resource describing how to handle this part? Tom briefly touched on it but only indicated that he now had a tub of "hazardous waste". I don't like the idea of turning my home into a a hazardous waste storage facility. It would be good to know how to properly handle this material.
@AsraffAmzani4 жыл бұрын
Years ago someone asked me about these higher quality one that uses 'liquid' and why didn't I own such printer that time for very detailed print quality. It is just too much hassle for me to use resin printer. Everything about the 'hassle' to handle a resin been discussed several times and I probably won't ever gonna touch resin printer anyway.
@ttgydddsd63054 жыл бұрын
Looks like a nice, fair review. Thanks Tom!
@7Trident33 жыл бұрын
I am looking hard at the SLA printers, I have an Anycubic FDM printer, and like the brand, but the Elegoo Saturn looks better than the Anycubic Mono X at a much lower price. The Anycubic has a slightly larger Z axis, but that's not worth a $330.00 premium. I hope to have an Elegoo Saturn in my future. Thanks again for the thorough reviews. Something about a German accent that lends credibility to anything technical. Keep up the great content!
@JohnOCFII4 жыл бұрын
Very thoughtful video, Tom. Thanks for that approach. I too find the fumes and the hassles of resin printing to be beyond my threshold of hobby enjoyment.
@jockspice4 жыл бұрын
Great honest review. I know there is a lot of embuggerance using resin but I was happy to take the plunge on this fairly solid and reliable printer. Just wish I could find someone stocking the spare resin tank kits, as changing out is a complete pain!
@adickurig4 жыл бұрын
Purchased one of these about 2 months ago. After stumbling through a few prints with clear resin, I found my groove with some Elegoo grey. The quality and precision are amazing. I've created prints with a resolution higher than my eyes can even see. As for your "lines" . . . I use a 12s ON-1s OFF exposure for (non clear) resins as the resin still hardens slightly after exposure. I don't have any lines that are detectable with out careful inspection or a magnifying glass.
@Henchman19774 жыл бұрын
Too late. Bought a Mars 2 weeks ago. The build quality really surprised me.... Very solid construction. Also, worked perfectly out of the box.
@DesignIncase4 жыл бұрын
I felt like I was cheating. I'm still tweaking my Prusa. With the Mars, I just needed to understand support placement. I've had two failed prints. One was on my support placement and the other was just something went wrong.
@PiefacePete464 жыл бұрын
This is a case of "Horses for courses". FDM 3D printers have been a game-changer for me. I had fallen in love with CAD software, of all types. Having spent countless hours (I wasn't very good!), I could only admire my masterpieces (and bore my friends with them) on the screen. Now I can print my work out and take it with me to bore them at the pub, or over dinner! That's progress. I can live without the better quality of SLA, and avoid the hassle. Serious people will have a different view! "Horses for courses!" Thanks again for a top-class video.
@makermatrix98154 жыл бұрын
Detailed yet concise summary of all the issues around resin printing. Good one! If you like the Mars you would really like the Photon or X1.
@JohnSmith-mk8hz4 жыл бұрын
In Chitubox you can add and change the size, depth and location of any holes you want to add to the model.
@macmund4 жыл бұрын
Thank you. This is very nice review not only of the printer but what is to expect with Resin printing. Kudos!
@hannuhanhi1834 жыл бұрын
After 3 years of FDM printing switched for small parts to SLA printing and I'm never going back to FDM. The dimensional accuracy and surface quality is outstanding. What comes resin smells I havent experienced it the same way as Tom. There are resins with very mild smell, almost odorless. Plant based resins which can be poured to sink. Tough resins outperforming PETG, ABS. Lot of choices here. For additional work required the end result is well worth it. FDM as a technology has reached it's top. Now it's the time of SLA.
@RinnieParkBroadcast4 жыл бұрын
This is a good video and does a good job of showing who would need a resin printer, albeit not overtly. If you just look at the prints you can tell that the two types of printing have different use cases. If I'm printing miniatures for tabletop gaming I'm printing them in resin. If I'm printing a sliced up stature of Spiderman that I plan on assembling and painting then I'm going resin. If I'm going to print parts bins to put into a storage container I'm going FDM. Same with printing terrain pieces or buildings for tabletop gaming. It's all about the level of detail you want and how much post processing you want to do (ie sanding, priming, sanding again, priming again, sanding again, painting vs cure, light sand, prime, paint) to get the detail you need. Good video.
@ennbee4 жыл бұрын
Chitu Box has a feature in the menu for adding holes to the print and will even then add the removed hole "plug" to the print bed automatically so after printing you can just put the plug into the appropriate hole. Also, you should have 1 hole at the top and 1 at the bottom so that the resin can drain through the low one and air can enter through the upper.
@bobbylittle69964 жыл бұрын
I worked in a plastic shop for 15 years, and yes you'd must be aware of fumes and hazardous waste handling. Couple of tips 1# to save on ipa put your part in a Ziploc bag and use a ultrasound cleaner with water in it. Make sure the top of the Ziploc bag is sealed and no holes. That way there is no fire hazzard. Tip 2# use a uv lamp on the ipa for a hour or so. Then filter the ipa out. The resin is cured and you can throw away the plastic and reuse the ipa. Tip 3# build a fume hood an vent outdoors. Make a window adaptor similar to a window AC unit adaptor to run your hoses. Can use it also for painting too. Yes this resin printer can be used for making many things like for metal casting, lab equipment, jewelery and prototyping parts. I have had lots of hobbies, woodworking and metal working. Fixing old classic cars ect. ect. If you think working with resin is a big hassle then you need to take up knitting. Oh! go out and buy some finished AD&D models, they cost a small fortune. This is ware you really save money. Have you seen the prices lately.
@AndyboyH4 жыл бұрын
If you have trouble with a hollowed model and not getting all the uncured resin from inside it, I’ve found a syringe with a coarse needle (1mm) filled with IPA is great for that.
@haenselundgretel6543 жыл бұрын
One of the best ads I've ever seen! Now I'm really thinking about using it.
@KenJones19614 жыл бұрын
"...sample size: two." ROFL! Great video!
@MyName-tb9oz4 жыл бұрын
Yeah, I thought that was pretty hilarious, too.
@jerrylyaw4 жыл бұрын
I love my Elegoo!! I've had more fun with it then my FDM printer! Sure it might smell but its not as bad as printing with abs. Plus its more reliable. But thats just my opinion... I enjoyed your review!
@cinnamonbeardstud4 жыл бұрын
Give me one resin why I should start using this.
@stvcolwill4 жыл бұрын
Great job on this video Thomas!!! I thoroughly enjoyed it. I've had my Mars for about three months now and I really love it!! (old, still working printer is a very stable reworked to the nines, AMX-AnetA8). and yes, each has it's purpose and both are very useful!!!
@stvcolwill4 жыл бұрын
I really feel like my Anet A8 isn't really that -- I switched out the board Gen7, the limit switches, the display, changed out for linear rails, added two new power supplies (one for heated bed), mosfet upgrade for the bed, heated build plate, build plate braket and of course the entire frame (aluminum extrusions)... basically the only thing left from the anet are the xAxis rods and end holders and the extruder (though I have build-tec on standby). so yeah, it's not really an anet anything anymore.
@theKashConnoisseur4 жыл бұрын
Tom: Holds skull. Me: Alas, poor Yorick!
@misadventuresin3dprinting.5454 жыл бұрын
Alas, poor @3Dprintingnerd i knew him well.
@timmc60094 жыл бұрын
I recently bought a elegoo mars printer and I LOVE it. My biggest issue is sometimes prints don't stick to the inverted base and you won't be able to see if your print stuck to the bed unless it runs for a while and clears the resin tub.
@m3chanist4 жыл бұрын
Alas, poor Yorick! I knew him, Horatio, a fellow of infinite jest, of most excellent fancy.
@Dieselfitter014 жыл бұрын
Way to much room for error with this technology in a household environment. You always produce great content with your incite. All inspiring!
@nerys714 жыл бұрын
There is an issue with the center curing more than the outer edges when you print a solid models like you have you won't notice this issue but when you start printing models where you have to fine-tune the burn time just right you have to get it as low as possible so that you don't fuse movable printing place links for example if you wanted to print the flexi butterfly this becomes a problem when I tried to fill the bed plate with multiple little butterflies the ones on the outside edge didn't cook enough and malformed but if I adjusted it upward the center fused a minor issue for most people but it is an issue you have to be aware of To greatly extend the life of the machine use Clear resin this allows you to use much much shorter burn times per layer and you can use your 0.1mm layer Heights Because of the near-perfect layer alignment and consistency that a resin printer gives you 0.1 layers look far superior and you still can't see the laser lights just enable anti-aliasing for the low resolution screen 1440p is actually pretty low resolution in this regard I have otherwise been extremely pleased with my ellegoo Mars although the newer machines with Matrix array LED's should work a lot better
@russelleubanks28852 жыл бұрын
I've been thinking about a resin printer, so I found this very informative. I print for fun and, to be honest, resin sounds like way too much hassle. And I wouldn't know how to dispose of the chemicals. I'll stick with filament for now. Thanks!
@kazuyar4 жыл бұрын
I've had one about 6 months and I've got it down to a fine art, its not as messy as people make out, i don't get any on my hands, i don't even need gloves, flick the model straight into a sonic bath for 5 minutes, wash the bed with a toothbrush and solvent whilst holding it by the large nut then sit it on a piece of paper towel, unscrew the bath and place it on another paper towel, put paper over the bottom lcd and loosen the grub screws on the bed "before" you place it back on the machine, (so it cant just drop like Thomas's did). level the bed, tighten the nuts, raise the bed, remove the paper and replace the tank, put the lid back on and turn the machine off. by now ya models just finishing cleaning so take ya it out the bath, at this point the flash comes of easiest while its still soft so clean it up now and then stick it under a uv nail hardener lamp for 10 minutes....job done, no mess
@sleepyzero53634 жыл бұрын
Thomas Your videos are just Amazing. I don't know why, but every time you upload I just can't help but watch. Keep up the good work Man! You are awesome!
@TheMuffinBagare4 жыл бұрын
So, if I do not have the space to place one anywhere other than my bedroom (sharing apartment with a friend), a resin printer would just be a no go? How bad are the fumes? Can it be solved with a bunch of open windows etc. or would you guys just say no to that? If so, my understanding is that most filament/FDM printers just aren't detailed enough for finer miniatures where detail is very important, which is what I'm mainly interested in printing. Is this supposition wrong?
@bill84784 жыл бұрын
Thanks Tom for another good video. I was considering getting into resin printing because of the great print quality and the opportunity to learn more about this technology. Your reaction to the fumes when you removed the cover was enough for me to change my mind. I really don’t think this technology is ready for hobbyists. The resins are too nasty and the machines don’t include proper fume venting systems. I’ve seen some FDM machines with better fume venting systems than any of the low cost resin printers currently available. I’m going to stick to FDM for now.
@sinformant4 жыл бұрын
Wotrhy to note: chitubox does not notify you that your thumdrive is full. If there isn't enough space to save the print file, it will simply save the images up until the point it is full. When you print the file it will simply freeze at the point the file stopped saving. I had a print failat 78% and assumed it was some sort of power flicker as my power company sucks. I tried it again and it did the same thing. I resliced it after clearing space on the thumb drive and it printed fine
@robertwesterfield34542 жыл бұрын
Thank you sir. We will be purchasing one because of the clean prints we’ve been using filament for last seven or eight years and are just getting tired of the Cleanup time before we send it to the Casting department
@justintime5021 Жыл бұрын
Its exciting how much resin printers have changed since this video. The resins are better the slicers are better the machines are better. Its great!
@sprocket55264 жыл бұрын
I just bought a Elegoo mars for making parts for models, scratch builds and such. not some thing I can use a FDM printer for, but I will most likely make some sort of contraption/box thingy-ma-bob I can stick the printer in too, and vent out the fumes to the outside.
@iviaverick524 жыл бұрын
if the washed IPA is now "hazardous waste" how do you dispose of it? No one seems to touch on that and I'm willing to bet people say "Don't put this down the drain, now look away while I put this down the drain".
@Beeks814 жыл бұрын
ChiTuBox (The one i got with my Mars), actually has a "hole" feature you can use to make a square, round, or hexagonal hole into your hollowed prints to let the goo out and the Alcohol in. There's even an option to "Keep Hole", where it will make a separate body representing the hole it removed so if you like, you can glue the model back together. I don't know if a tolerance is built into that or not, but resin swells slightly as it cures so you could find that the hole needs some help to fit. (I haven't tried printing holes, only snap-fit parts, which worked with about 0.013" tolerance between them. I printed Hot Wheels car-sized rims with removable/swappable tires.) The advantage is that if you can be clean about it, you could use uncured resin as glue, and throw it into your curing station to get a good bond.
@felixdietzCGN4 жыл бұрын
2:36 so thats what I’ve been doing wrong all the time 🙃
@TKs3DPrints4 жыл бұрын
light off time is handy i tend to have it at 6.5 and during long prints i set to 15 seconds. this gives the uv and screen time to cool down between layers and stops the screen from getting burnt out. :) also to help removal of supports. after cleaning. before you cure the parts. use a hairdryer to heat up the supports then then should start to bend and you should be able to brush them off and not have bad pockmarks in the prints. just use an airbrush to dry the ipa of the parts before heating the supports.
@dhupee4 жыл бұрын
Better review than design prototype test :P
@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany4 жыл бұрын
Waiting for my Orange 30 tracking number from the Kickstarter. Will be using a sonicator with yellow magic 7 instead of alcohol and UV nail curing hood
@DesignIncase4 жыл бұрын
I think if you are into printing models that have a lot of detail, a resin printer is a great way to capture all that detail. An FDM just isn't going to do it no matter how fine tuned you got it. The key thing is the size. You have a very small build area and while some companies are making Ipad sized resin printers, these smaller machines aren't near that. Maintenance - The LCD screen will fail thanks to the UV. The FEP will fail after enough use or accident. Though FDM's have parts that will need replacement. Smell - Just because you can't smell it doesn't mean nothing is in the air. Odor wise the Anycubic eco resin doesn't really smell terrible. It's closer to a generic plant stem. Anycubic's regular resin is low but not that low. I can still make out some of the odor after clearing the tank and not running for a few days. The eco stuff never stuck. Safety - No one says non toxic. I keep seeing this use for some resins like the plant based stuff by posters but the actual companies have never made that claim. Ease of smell and cleaning, sure but the never claim safe to handle with your bare hands until after curing. I agree with others, an FDM printer should probably be first because if they can't handle that, they can't handle a resin printer. If you are a painter/caster, someone working with similar chemicals that is an exception.This is business as usual. For me I take 5 to 10 minute between the clean to putting it under a uv lamp. I wear a mask and gloves but I think I've done more clean up with FDM with all the support and filament bits. Cleaning wise, beside IPA, there are some effective but less smelly and safer chemicals to use that are worth exploring. There is definitely an opportunity for a solid cleaning station that goes from the tank to the UV without ever being exposed. The Mars Pro might help address the fumes a little more but I feel like the fumes pop up after the print is done and the lid is off. I'm loving the mars right now. Will I feel the same in a year?
@peterlekkerkerker44824 жыл бұрын
Before going to Resin printers you could also try FDM printing with smaller nozzles. I recently did this to get better details on a small functional part in PETG, and I was really happy with the result. This was on a stock Ender3 pro. This will for sure not come close to what a resin printer can do. But if you want more detail than what the default 0.4mm FDM does, just spend a couple of bucks on a smaller nozzle. Maybe an idea for a new video?
@bluephreakr4 жыл бұрын
Resin printers are indeed totally worth it for that level of detail so long you hold your nose and don't breathe around it or your work. Of the product - for the display, there shouldn't be any issue with creating a UV-resistant backing plate to hot snot behind it to help with longevity, and the suggestion of a fan swap is nice to know because your first time using it is always going to be the safest; once it's full of resin, it's full of liquid death you should not inhale. The USB issue is easily solved with an extra USB extension lead and a 3D-printed part to retain the socket end.
@DrkShadowSonic4 жыл бұрын
The quality on this video is insane! I feel like I can see the details on these prints as if I was holding them. Awesome job. I did have one question. You said once the resin is mixed with the alcohol, it becomes hazardous waste. What do you do with it then since you can't put it down the sink? I use a resin printer at work (different brand) and they say you can do that. So now I am confused and what to make sure I am doing what is best xD
@BullScrapPracEff4 жыл бұрын
Hazardous waste has too many meanings. Technically you should leave the container outside in the sunlight and let it evaporate. This will leave behind cured resin that can be thrown away.
@Psychlist19724 жыл бұрын
FWIW, the Prusa resins don't smell as strong (they do smell, and I have an open window near my SL1), and they don't burn or even irritate the skin. It's messy, but no worse than paint or glue. I like the vat pack container approach on the Mars. That's really smart. But, I really like the washing/curing station with the Prusa (it's not available separately, but it's a huge time and mess saver). If you can try out that system on-channel, you should. Yes, you pay quite a bit for all that, but I don't mind supporting Prusa.
@aspmos4 жыл бұрын
I liked the configuration of having one hand with a glove and the other without :)
@3djimmy2524 жыл бұрын
Thomas glad you made it home safe. Thanks for the info you give us.
@WHJeffB4 жыл бұрын
Very good review... I have an Anycubic Photon myself and I really like it. Writing primarily to reinforce your warning about the toxicity of the liquid resin. I've been using the Elegoo resin exclusively for a few months now. Two weeks ago I was removing and print and cleaning it in IPA. Was wearing Nitrile gloves like I should, but at some point I wiped my forehead with the back of one of my gloved hands. I must have had resin on the glove, which transferred to my forehead. A few hours later, I showered and went to bed. Woke up the next morning with a blistered/scabbed over spot on my forehead, which grew to about twice its original size over the next few days. Two weeks later, the scab has slowly started to dissipate/heal. Long story short... Be careful when handling the liquid resin! It most definitely is harmful to living things, though some may have a higher sensitivity to it than others. Also, do wear dust mask or respirator when sanding or filing the resin. As I found out the other day, the dust is a very effective irritant for your respiratory system. Resin printers are great... Incredible detail and resolution. It's also a great feature to not have to wait weeks for your preferred online 3D printing service to deliver your parts, but do take the recommended precautions. You only get ONE life.
@colinwiseman4 жыл бұрын
* unless your a Buddhist. 😉
@ihavekalashnikovyoudomath92754 жыл бұрын
How do you dispose of the resin/washing alcohol? How many times can you use the alcohol to wash before you have to dispose of it?
@kl0wnkiller9124 жыл бұрын
Just leave it sit outside with the top off... evaporation will take care of it for you. just don't leave it in the rain.
@kyzf2 жыл бұрын
Knowing nothing whatsoever about it, my wife arranged to get us a 3d printer for Christmas, and so I'm now trying to figure out what else I need to invest in to even use the dang thing. Knowing about the resin fumes is helpful, especially considering she also didn't factor in that we have zero space for this at all, let alone a ventilated space. So in making my list of things I need to get this up and going, sounds like some ducting is also in order. Fun! PROTIP: PLEASE DO THE RESEARCH FOR YOURSELF BEFORE BUYING SOMETHING LIKE THIS FOR SOMEONE ELSE.
@SergiuszRoszczyk4 жыл бұрын
I will stick to PLA and PET-G. For me resin is too much hassle and too dangerous just for DIY use. Eventually I'll just send my model to print somewhere. But I'd like to say that a sponsorship part was done very well in this video. I mean it didn't feel like it was forced placed sponsored content. Just announced and explained. Keep going forward! 👍
@integza4 жыл бұрын
Hi Thomas! Been a fan for a long time :D Could you tell me what your main camera is? Que quality is amazing!
@abizershihorwala50414 жыл бұрын
Thats Pteter Mckinnon Intro music!!! ;)
@ClokworkGremlin Жыл бұрын
Greetings from THE FUTURE! I have about 7 years of *very* light experience with 3D printing, generally a couple of weeks at a time of intense printing followed by several months of not. I used to hate resin printers, but now, while I would still recommend a filament printer as someone's first 3D printer, I'm really kind of hoping I never have to go back to a filament printer. Sure, prints are more expensive (resin prints reportedly cost an average of twice what filament prints do), and there's cleanup involved, and they're a *lot* more fragile (less of an issue now with the prevalence of inexpensive "ABS-like" resins, but your average filament print is still much stronger within the printing plane than even the strongest resin prints), but... With a filament printer, there's a lot that can go wrong, and it all manifests with the same symptoms: parts fail to adhere to the bed, and the nozzle clogs. Print temperature too hot: nozzle clog. Print temperature too cold: nozzle clog. Wrong kind of filament: nozzle clog. Filament out: nozzle clog. Extruder gearbox failure: nozzle clog. Feed gear stripped: nozzle clog. Everything causes the nozzle to clog! With resin printers, there's less that can go wrong (they really only have 2 moving parts, and one is the cooling fan), and it's almost always pretty clear what it was. Parts not sticking to bed: insufficient first layer exposure, insufficient first layer count. Layer delamination during print: insufficient exposure time. Prints come out looking "chunky": too high exposure time, dirty or poorly-mixed resin. Parts come out looking "chalky": your alcohol is choked with old resin, you dirty dirty boy. And the problems are generally easier and cheaper to fix, too, because most of them are things you can do right there at your printer or slicing software. (I completely replaced the extruder on my old filament printer, twice, to no avail, before finally throwing in the towel and selling it to someone who wanted a project to work on.) In short, I have found resin printers to be, while generally more effort-intensive and a lot more expensive, a lot more reliably and a lot more reliably good, and the range of available resins these days largely mitigates a lot of the structural deficiencies they've historically had as well. It helps that my newest printer, a resin printer, has a 190x120x200mm build volume. A little over half what my old filament printer had, and enough for almost everything I've wanted to run off copies of so far.
@XY-nc7nc4 жыл бұрын
I put my printers in a cabinet with dedicated vent system and located on the balcony. in the same time, i noticed that high quality resin doesn't volatilize much? almost no smell(just cost maybe 3 times more). whatever it is, i wear gloves and mask with carbon filter with vent on all the time. take it seriously
@rodrigoenriquez27474 жыл бұрын
Hey thomas, thanks for the review, love it. But big question, whats that jacket? looks great! want one haha
@gaetano2224 жыл бұрын
Another top production by Tom. They say practice makes perfect, guess they´re right...
@teiwaz6564 жыл бұрын
They've just announced a mars pro!
@FJB2024_4 жыл бұрын
now all we need is a Boring Company Special Edition from Mars. Preloaded demo of Elon Bust.
@ZigealFaust4 жыл бұрын
@@FJB2024_ I'd buy that for a dollar! Actualy as soon as my Mars gets here I'm going to make a vinyl sticker of Elon and slap it on the side, lol.
@3DPrintTechDesign4 жыл бұрын
Good overview of resin-printing! Meshmixer does that hollow+holes combo (guessing 300ppl already wrote it tho)
@AlexanderChen254 жыл бұрын
Loved your review and content. Wondering if you could do a side-by-side comparison and review of the Anycubic Photon. It seems to be a direct competitor to the Elegoo Mars and is popular with people printing miniatures and artisan keycaps.
@andreasthaler70684 жыл бұрын
Mal paar Tipps: Du bist offenbar recht empfindlich, was Resinduft betrifft: Monocure 3D Resin Rapid riecht kaum und gilbt tatsächlich kaum nach. Nett von Monocure ist Monocure CMYK Set zum selbst Farben mischen. Zum Workflow: ChiTuBox ist ganz gut, bessere Supports setzt allerdings Prusa Slicer. ChiTuBox warnt nicht vor Saugglocken, das kann PreForm sehr gut. Also mein Workflow: Supports in Prusa setzen, das Ergebnis als STL in PreForm laden. Der zeigt Saugglocken oder problematische Teile beim Support an. Dementsprechend Löcher mit ChiTuBox machen, nochmal in PreForm checken und, wenn dann alles gut ist, in ChiTuBox slicen und ab dafür. Ich nutze übrigend den SparkMaker FDH und bin sehr zufrieden (bis auf die Qualität des Kaltgerätekabels. Das hat tatsächlich nen Kurzen.) Auch der Schalter wird von einigen bemängelt. Und noch einen zum Postprocessing: Isoprop ist wunderbar, wenn es nicht um transparente Drucke geht. Da ist tatsächlich ResinAway oder TEK 1969 (von Keytech) die bessere Wahl (allerdings sind das wirklich nur Nuancen). Allerdings teurer Stoff. Ein letzter Tip noch: Beste Waschergebnisse liefert ein Ultraschallbad. 5 Minuten und wirklich alle Reste, auch in ganz feinen Rillen, ist weg.
@Redstoneghost1334 жыл бұрын
"when I was travelling to Earth..." ah yes, another martian
@GMO--ge4ir4 жыл бұрын
I had similar thoughts.
@enrilopez4 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for your videos, you're very good explaining stuff and that's one of the reasons I recommend your channel when new people start 3d printing and have no idea where to start!!!! Again, thank you so much!!!!
@JPWestmas4 жыл бұрын
I'm experienced with the peopoly moai machines. I actually find SLA printing to be much more fun because I don't have to worry about mechanical parts as much, heat sinks, nuts n bolts etc. failing. The liquid resin part is kind of annoying but that's just something that slows me down a little. In the end I think one just needs to do a lot of printing with these types of printers (in a garage or a room with a lot of ventilation) and then it will just become second nature like FDM printing is for Thomas. I recommend buying a UV lamp from peopoly or matterhackers. You can also use that lamp to cure the resin that is in the IPA, strain it out and then throw the cured resin away in its hardened form so that it is less toxic. I also recommend smearing dawn dish soap on the part after washing it in IPA. Then let it soak in warm water for a half hour or so. That gets the tackiness off quite a lot. Curing won't remove the tackiness ime. Also keep in mind that not all resins are created equal and some give off worse fumes than others. I also find CA glue to be way more toxic to myself. So it's not like high toxicity is a new thing that model makers have to be aware of ;) The peopoly resin is kind of like smelling permanent markers for too long, so definitely have to put it in my garage. But at least it doesn't make me choke or mess up my nose and throat. But that's just me.
@rjpeterson14 жыл бұрын
Great video Tom. I’m sticking with FDM.
@eric.is.online4 жыл бұрын
Looks interesting but I think, as you mentioned, that you have to think of the whole production 'ecosystem' and not just the printer with resin systems. For me I would want to build a fume hood with extraction to the outside as part of that ecosystem and logistically that's unfeasible currently.
@BodywiseMustard Жыл бұрын
There are two of the letter I in aluminium. Check the table of elements