MUCH better than the first Vid, I used to do it like this in the "South Bend" daze. Now it's 6 jaw chucks, 2 axis DRO, carbide inserts, reverse threading (cutting away from the chuck), adjustable dies for the final finish, zero (or half-ten thousandths) runout every time . Everybody does these differently, the end result is what matters and that is good work for that machinery. Now re-crowning/threading a damaged Arctic Warfare is different than a Remington 700. Whole different animal. It also needs mentioning (no one has yet) about supporting the barrel at the other end of the headstock tube. A Collet matching your tube diameter/barrel OD is essential to keep the barrel concentric thru the work. The copper wire is OK, but during vibration CAN loosen slightly. Keep the shimming as small (brass shim stock is best) as possible. Also, indicate before AND after the tailstock is applied for runout. Indicate after running a very light, slow skim pass (before using the tailstock) to establish a reference surface you can use. Polish that surface to indicate accurately. Shoot often, shoot small.

Those threads are soooo much nicer then last time...You can really see the difference between a dull and sharp bit...This newb appreciates you redoing this video....

All right you convinced me. You did a much better job in this video. And the outcome is much better.

Dude, I love your work, you're obviously very methodical, that's clear from the little things you do that most "gunsmiths" don't think about. I'm a toolmaker by trade and I'm saying this because I like you.... Stop using rags on running machines!! I'm just as methodical as you, and a couple of years ago I lost two fingers in a moment of carelessness. Just because you tame the tigger, doesn't mean it won't run out and bite you if you leave the cage open one day!

Great video, thanks for taking the time to go through this - not racing to the end. I'm fixing to cut some barrel threads, has been a decade or so since I turned anything that requires thought, so your talk-through and reminders of some of the basics is really helpful. Kudos.

Most passive aggressive machining video I've ever seen. Good job

i just considered this the 2nd part of your 1st video which was a good basic explanation and this as the advance how to do it . I understood both as a novice which forced me to subscribe. / keep them coming.

That is some fine work! Some "gunsmiths" need to learn to use their tools properly. Everytime I watch a video on people doing it right it makes me happy. I feel bad for people that went to the smith I did.

Thread relief.... nice video! much improved over the previous one. Thanks.

Love the commentary relating to the original video... freakin hilarious. Good job on the new video. Looks great!

man I love lookin at those ways

Just gave the 1000th like! Great video, as a beginner I really liked both videos. Some of the comments on the first were a little rough but I liked hearing the feedback on different techniques. Thanks for sharing

i didnt think you did a bad job on the first one, but this one was good too.

Came out nice. And great alignment.

GREAT JOB BRO!

Really like you use of the copper wire ring with (I assume) a spider at the outboard end of the spindle. I will try that.

Nice work 👍

Good stuff! Thanks for posting this :-)

Man you have a beautiful lathe!

What a precision job well done. Where are you located to install one on my rifle???

Very Cool !

Thanks for sharing this method. God bless you sir

I'm trying to figure out why so many "gunsmiths" and other "master machinists" end up buying so much "simple" special tooling from other "machine shops" that they SHOULD be able to EASILY MAKE "in-house" IF their "precision machine tools" and SKILLS are sufficiently "accurate" and "precise" to make use of them.

Thats awesome it was dead nuts!

Thanks mate.

Your lathe ways are FAH-RIGGIN gorgeous!!! Did you regrind and re-scrape? Just re-scrape? I would love to do the same but for some reason doubt I’ll ever get a round tuit… lol

So hey I'm trying to set my machine up to cut these. If you dont mind can you please tell me on that ptg indicator rod. Does that come with a set of bushings or are these bushings a separate purchase. I'm still a little confused on how that rod gets fitted in the bore with the bushing if I have both a .22 caliber rod and .22 barrel do I still need a set of bushings or are the bushings just to make the indicator rod universal ?

Probably a stupid question but do you move the bit that cuts the threads by hand or with a power feed ? Great video you have a new subscriber, I'm only just learning. I've been putting it off for long enough times come to thread the barrel for a break & it's pushing my skills beyond their lèvel it seems. The power feed or not is the main problem if it's needed i need to learn how to use it first.

Nice!

question : the end of the barrel is concave in nature but my muzzle brake is convex to the barrel. Will there not be a very small open area between the crown of the muzzle and the brake which could collect carbon ?

Are you using the power feed or handwheeling it?

a mighty mag and one inch travel dial indicator on the z will let you accurately cut shoulders and faces as long as you don't bump it and knock it out of position i used this method all the time when i started in the trade back when nc machines ran off tape and carbide inserts were a luxury item

Nice Vid! Do you know what steel the thread protector is made of? Mild steel or something a bit tougher?

interesting video, how would you go about permanently fixing the thread protector?

How do you re engage the new threads with each pass? How do you match the timing and not just create a fresh cut with each pass?

Thread relief 😉.

Will you be able to do a half inch unf tread a airgun barrel and cut crown?

After you have gone through all the steps to dial in the bore, you then engage the live center. I don't know the tolerances on your lathe but, most of the time the tailstock isn't perfectly aligned. By using the live center, aren't you risking having the muzzle shift from its indicated position, into position with the live center?

what does back end of barrel holding look like on back of lathe?

Looks great. Now only fit a more discreet thread protector... 😉

What kind of lathe setup do you have?

Any thoughts on those "cat's heads" ?

Will you make a video on locating a tapered barrel?

Great job. Is this a .223 barrel?

The rod and bushing you used?

what speed do you turn and cut threads?

I am a hilljack from Ohio and we say "Under Cut" and in the shops that I worked in if someone said "Back cut" I think most of my old co-workers may confuse it with back facing? I wish I would have bought a couple of lathes and mills when I retired and kept all of my tools as I get the urge to "Create" and using a file to "Hillbilly Machine" anything takes forever and the tolerance has to be a +/- of 4.639" haa

Very good job man. You know,I watched your other video and thought and knew you knew what you were doing. Commenters tore you a new one. I say fuc K them. I've been welding and fabing my whole life,over 40 yrs in the work force. I can tell you if I made a video in my shop,everyone and their brother would put me down. First off I've worked in places that the guards on agrinder must be on. In my shop the first thing I do with a new four and a half inch grinder is take the guard off and throw it away. I can see some kid or greenhorn say oh you don't have a guard on your grinder or you should have gloves on. I never lost a finger or put an eye out. Anyone can pick someone else's job apart but yet can't do the job themselves. So my point is as long as you know what's up,do the job the way you feel needs to be done. Critics are a dime a dozen. Nice job on the threading by the way.

Why not just turn between centers to be concentric w the bore?

I am new to lathe, when cutting the thread, movement of the cutter is automatic or controlled by your hand?

Too bad you have a screw on chuck or you could spin the lathe backwards and thread away from the head stock instead of towards it. Tool upside down or on the other side of the work right side up. Takes out the pucker factor and you can really spin the lathe up to a higher RPM.

Wish you were local...

Good video and thanks for sharing your techniques. Sure get a lot of criticism in the posts. You must have thick skin.

savage is the same way as far as barrel thickness but somehow they shoot? Hated savage as a younger guy but no, now! I own sako's tika's rems. czs, savages shoot!

I like how you had to do this to please the whiners.

That looks like a pain to do.

I have never seen anyone bother to use an outboard spider and a range rod to set a barrel up in 3 jaw chuck!!!!! where is your 4 jaw?even if the 3 jaw is very good you have no adjustment unless it is an adjusta=true type and I did not see any mention of adjusting it. Just saying.

200 buck can get u a decent dro

three (3) jaw Chuck's don't cut it for action jobs or barrel jobs sorry bubba

You cut off the original "target crown" and then decide to "protect" the muzzle? I gotta say that doesn't make a hell of a lot of sense since there's no reason to jack with the original "target crown" beyond what will be removed by cutting down the barrel OD to thread the barrel. Messing with factory crowns is pretty much always a bad idea. But you're not the first "gunsmith" I've seen whack off the whole end of the barrel and ruin the original crown just to thread a barrel for the hell of it, so you're not the Lone Ranger, I guess. Your "recessed target crown" that's cut in the end of the muzzle and rifling isn't exactly how the "factory" crowns barrels. Typically a crown is "rounded" and reamed and "smooth" and leaves the muzzle de-burred and "lapped" so the rifling outer edges end up "radiused" rather than "sharp". Crowning barrels is something that's better left undone than done improperly and there are "cheap" old guns with "raw" barrels just whacked off like a hacksaw was used and left that way where "finishing" the muzzle of the barrel was impossible to do "correctly". My 1950s-vintage Savage 24 "camper special" .22/.410 over/under rifle/shotgun is one of them. Looks raw and unfinished as hell but since the two barrels are a "one piece" deal and they were unable to "finish" the entire end of the barrel by radiusing and crowning them individually, they just left them "whacked off" and raw. And no doubt some hand work was done to de-burr and lap the bores at the muzzles. I also haven't yet figured out why its necessary to thread barrels with a single-point cutter on a lathe when a conventional die will work just fine, produce better threads when a quality die and proper thread cutting lubricant and practices are used and you can get plenty of thread on the barrel with a standard die and are better off NOT going as far as possible with the threads regardless since you've got a chamfer and/or crush washer to take up space whether using a thread protector or "muzzle device". Nor can I figure out what the "rush" is threading "precision" parts at "high speed" with a single-point making multiple passes to end up with what is not a "standard" thread with a "specified" thread depth/engagement and isn't automatically a "good" thread just because the "muzzle device" which is generally cheap, mass-produced one-size-fits-all "quality" threads on easily and "doesn't wobble." In fact, its "normal" with "correct" thread depth and profiles for there to BE some "wobble" in threads until the components are completely screwed together and "torqued". With no "play" you have too much thread engagement and will usually end up with too much friction and can easily gall threads during assembly and then strip them during disassembly. "Standard" threads as used everywhere else in a gun or any other machine will typically have about 65-70% "thread depth" and that "clearance" is what lets the material in the threads and the threads themselves "grow" as torque is applied without LOCKING in place and permits the parts/fasteners to "relax" when the torque and tension is removed later. If you're not using a quality THREAD PITCH GAUGE to "inspect" your finished product to determine that the thread pitch and shape are correct and a micrometer/caliper to measure the "major diameter" of the threads after cutting to make sure a "1/2-24" thread is .500" in diameter and if anything on the "small" side, you haven't done even an "accurate" job of cutting the threads, much less a "precise" job of doing so. I don't know what kind of barrel you're working on there besides "Remington" but since it's out of the receiver and probably an AR or 700 barrel and a "factory" barrel at that, only if you did this work for "free" for someone else or for yourself was it "worth it" compared to simply buying a "replacement" barrel already threaded since this barrel obviously wasn't too good and too "valuable" to jerk out of a rifle, toss in the lathe and whittle away on. Good machinists and gunsmiths don't perform unnecessary work or remove unnecessary material or modify "original" parts in good condition just for shits and giggles and good gunsmiths NEVER jack with a FACTORY CROWN unless the muzzle is damaged and even then only with a hand "reamer" to "touch up" the factory crown. If the damage goes too deep, THEN they MIGHT "shorten" the barrel and recrown it "inside and out" (quality threaded barrels don't have a sharp edge on the OD of the "cut" and are lightly "de-burred" and "radiused" there as well) as a "last resort" IF the rifle/barrel has "accuracy" issues and the rifle/barrel otherwise "check out" and don't show damage, wear etc elsewhere that could be causing or contributing to the problem. If the chamber, throat and bore aren't in excellent shape and clean and bright and not pitted, frosted or "worn", they might go ahead and cut down and recrown the barrel IF they can do so for significantly less money than doing the work. If not, they encourage the owner to replace the barrel so its a known good tube going back in/on the rifle. THEN if there are "accuracy issues" they're not doing any "truing" or other "accurizing" of a "bad" receiver and then screwing the "old" barrel that will probably need reamed and headspaced again regardless back into that receiver just to "test fire" the whole "original" package again and maybe to get "acceptable" accuracy and precision out of it. The proof of a true professional when it comes to machinists and mechanics and other technical tradesmen is that they'll save the customer money at their "own expense" whenever possible encouraging him or her to replace rather than "rebuild" or "repair" or "modify" used parts and in the process save themselves a lot of time, stress and uncertainty putting their own time into "rebuilding" or "repairing" or "modifying" something that's still going to be used and less "valuable" post-modification/repair/rebuilt than in "good original" condition as a "core" for someone/something else and will use the time they save doing it "right" and "fast" with the new part made to do what the customer wants on the next project that is ALWAYS waiting for GOOD professionals. When it comes to rifle barrels they CAN BE good "cores" and especially if they're factory 700 barrels can be rebored/rechambered for other larger cartridges and doing so with "shot out" barrels in something like .30-06 Springfield and reboring/rechambering them for .338-06 or .35 Whelen is common practice and some guys want "junk" factory 700 barrels just for that purpose. They're originally bored straight and are "seasoned" and have FACTORY MARKINGS and when applicable are drilled/machined for factory "iron" sights that most hunters who want a .338-06 or .35 Whelen for "large game" like elk and moose and maybe bear like to have on their hunting rifles for BACKUP and that add a BUNCH of time and/or expense to "rebarreling" with an aftermarket replacement barrel that has to be drilled and tapped and possibly machined for factory sights and will NEVER have factory markings on it. And the older the "donor rifle" the more "valuable" its "junk" parts generally thrown away or tossed aside by somebody "building" a "custom" rifle they decide they have to have a "composite" stock and "high-end" barrel and the receiver/bolt "trued" and "squared" and other "improvements" done on. Cast off wood stocks for "vintage" 700s and "take off" barrels can go for $50-$150 apiece and that's not even the really "desirable" ones. There's a reason Remington charges and gets $400 a pop for brand-new 700 receiver/bolt sets while "gun experts" wanting to build "custom rifles" walk right by "steals" like I found at Cabela's a few years ago on the "used rack" and the BOTTOM of the "used rack" next to what I consider "mil-surp junk" like Mosins and Arisakas and a Lee-Enfield or two. A 1967-vintage Model 700 ADL in .30-06 Springfield in a fairly "fancy" but kind of beat-up glossy, fully checkered Monte Carlo stock with probably 80% original bluing, a pretty nice and bright bore, "vintage" Weaver scope mounts and a "cheapo" Tasco 3x9 "optic" and a pretty obvious and well-done "trigger job" with even an old-school "trigger shoe" on the trigger and an "aftermarket" and pretty damned "vintage" Pachmayr recoil pad AND the original front sight but unfortunately no rear sight assembly. For $200 on the tag and about $215 out the door. Shoots like a vintage 700 should and that trigger is as crisp and sweet as any trigger I've got in any other gun with a good, light trigger and I've got several guns WITH good, light triggers. It needs "restored" but I'm not sure what direction to go with it. But I'm thinking about making a "sleeper" out of it, leaving it .30-06, glass-and-pillar bedding it, getting a "regular" wood stock for it (I'm right-handed but shoot lefty so a RH Monte Carlo is kind of a waste for me to refinish, repad and reuse), putting a factory rear sight back on it and maybe putting a "vintage" Leupold fixed power or possibly a 4-7X on it and using it to shoot circles around "long-range" and "extreme long range" shooters/guns out to 600 yards or so. I've thought about reboring/rechambering it for .338-06 but I won't probably go moose/elk/bear hunting and if I do I'd still have at least two different bolt-action .30-06s to choose from and .30-06 in the right hands is "enough gun" for all of the above if the "hunter" is "hunting" instead of playing "sniper" from "long range". What I won't do is make it "tactical" and/or otherwise "modify" or "upgrade" it and especially won't let some wannabe "gunsmith" with a lathe and low standards for "precision" get ahold of it.