Thanks Tim! Professional shooters like yourself need a professional product.

Beautifully done, by a meticulous craftsman!

Thank you Lana! We've had our share of influential people come through the shop and I must say, hanging with Dick was definitely a highlight. Especially the karate lesson he gave us. LOL. Thank you for sharing him!

@@trentgriswold A music pioneer/creator legend all the way and like a son to Leo Fender. Pioneered all of the fender equipment with Leo and yes, the greatest of the Greatest souls ever. My husband was forever beyond the beyond!!!!

Thanks LZ! You make slammin steel at 1000 plus yards look easy!

Thank you sir!!

Thanks man! Been meaning to reach out. Lots of requests for original GBG shirts. People have always been stoked on that artwork. Our screen printer had our artwork archived and they closed up shop. Gotta figure out how to get that goin again!

@@trentgriswold I think I still have the art files on an external. Or we could something new. Let’s talk!

Great input Paul! That’s exactly what I was looking for. I’ll definitely do that!

Thank you Dewayne. I appreciate you watching as well as the feed back. What type of videos do you have an interest in seeing?

Nice work! One can make a living correcting factory intolerance. You should do a video on it. I’d love to check it out.

Words to live by

@@trentgriswold might send you a barrel to chop and thread!

@@ballensince88 shoot me an email at griswoldbros@gmail.com

Thank you! Cheers!

Great question. Many times if you have access to the breach end of the barrel through the receiver you can use a mandrel. I do that quite frequently on bolt guns and in some cases AR style uppers if the client doesn't want the barre removed for a number of reasons. Since you don't have access to the breech end of the barrel on a ZV58, you could chuck up the receiver and use a steady rest and or brass live center on the barrel I suppose. I'd probably go the piloted crowning tool route on that as you wouldn't be expecting bench rest accuracy anyhow.

Good observation. You can most certainly leave it engaged the whole time. On that particular lathe, it depends on the thread you are cutting as far as when to engage. You can actually engage on any number for 1/2x28 threads. Not the case on many other lathes. Thanks for watching!

@@trentgriswold cool thanks for replying!! Keep up the good work

The accuracy increased. Many people correlate velocity with accuracy and that’s simply not the case. A shorter barrel is more rigid and has less “whip”. With that said there are reasons for wanting or needing higher velocity, stability at extended ranges or just in general, expansion or penetration etc. But for instance, many of the bolt guns we build for LE swat teams are shorter than 20” and as short as 14” due to them not typically engaging targets over 75 yards. I still shoot my 20” .308’s well past 1000yds. You just need to way all those options and come up with a formula that fits your mission. If you don’t need it shorter and it already meets your accuracy needs I would probably leave it as is. I do plan on doing a video measuring the loss of velocity when cutting down at some point.

Its a just used a radius on a piece of round brass stock. You can buy brass laps pre made but they are cheap and easy to make. I use Clover lapping compound by loctite. Both the 600 and 800 grit work well.

We actually adopted the metric system in Cali so we’re good.

This particular barrel is made of 416 stainless.

@@trentgriswold Are pistols also made of the same metal or does each part of a weapon have a special metal?

@@funnytimes1262 some pistols are made of stainless and some are made of chromoly steel. Same goes for rifle barrels. The parts of most firearms vary greatly as far as their alloy depending on their function. For example, locking surfaces that are high friction need to be extremely hard and might be a different alloy and heat treat than another part. Hear treat is also another important aspect. A firing pin is case hardened with an extremely hard exterior but if the entire firing pin was hard it would be to brittle and shatter. So it’s case hardened to have a hard exterior to keep from deforming but soft and flexible inside as not so shatter or crack.

It varies quite a bit depending on weather it’s just threads and the barrel can stay on the action or a full cut and crown, as well as type of barreled action etc. Ballpark anywhere from $150-$225.

Ask whomever taught you that a left had lathe tool cuts right to left for a refund. I’ll give you a free tip after nearly fifty years in the trade. If you want to cut threads close to a shoulder flip a left hand threading tool upside down and cut left to right with the lathe in reverse. It eliminates the panic mode as the tool nears the shoulder, the tool just passes cleanly off the end of the part. you can take a narrow grooving tool and cur a shallow relief at the shoulder and advance your tool into it before engaging the half nut.

Great question. Because it’s in a Four Jaw and “dialed in” in don’t want to disturb how it has been set up. If it was just a Three Jaw chuck torqued down nice and tight I could take larger bites. Thanks for watching!

@@trentgriswold makes sense. I think I know how you made that 4 jaw, genius. Do you have a video of it being made?

I don’t have any video of it being made but may do a video on how it was made at some point.

Not sure what you are referring to

The chamber was not cut with a 223 Wylde reamer, therefore it’s not a 223 Wylde. Good observation though.