giving away all my secrets these days! I hope these vids are helpful, this is the content and info that i wish was out there when i started into all this ten years ago. if it just helps one of y'all, heck its worth it. also, here is the budget advance timing light I have that i used in the video - its served me well: amzn.to/3cvxGzE

A little known and much overlooked problem with distributors is the gap between the tip of the rotor and the posts in the cap. This is overlooked because it is impossible to see under normal circumstances. You need to get a old distributor cap and cut a 1/4 slice out of it. Put that on your distributor and check the gap from a post to the rotor. You'll be shocked. I recently looked at one and the gap was 0.075", that's twice the plug gap. That means there is a bigger spark going on in the cap than in the cylinder. Check it out. I made a new rotor tip from brass and reduced the gap to 0.005". Less heat, less cap damage, more power to the plugs.

I have not been a SBF guy since the early 70's, you got it going on kid. you keep doing this and I will keep watching. thanks for the effort.

Well done Luke, it seems you have this down pat. Lots of good information. Thanks for sharing.

Awesome stuff! your videos are a huge help in getting my dads 1978 F150 Running again. Its got a 390 with what he called a "hot" cam. Thanks again!

Thanks Luke! Another great informative video. Appreciate you sharing your experience and knowledge.

Only timing video that truly explains & makes sense. My 455 Oldsmobile thanks you

I'm all for PEAK Performance. Great video Luke!

Thanks for putting out this video. I learned more about timing and using the gun. I have a 63 Falcon. I changed out the Fordomatic with a c4 3speed, because the Fordomatic was bad. I have the original 170, but I've been wanting to put in a 302 and perhaps build it, with guidance from your video you made a few years ago.

Started my classic car journey with 2020 with 0 experience in cars. Came a long way thanks for all the info.

VERY informative,and I appreciate the demo at the end 🙂

Always great information, I have a 88 F150 4.9l with Obd1, love these old trucks.

Cleaver thumb nail with the timing light leads hooked to your ear and hat! I'm going to attempt to apply these tips to my '58 Plymouth Suburban/wagon to get a bit more MPG out of it. Much appreciated for the videos!

Thanks Luke for all you do my friend in giving me a bit more knowledge than I came here with. I still say that you are super awesome guy 👍 buddy 👌.

Thank you for turning me on to Progression Ignition! I will be getting one for my old Mustang this summer. P.S. that old Galaxie is gorgeous.

Great vid, good info. I saw your disclaimer above about using adjustable timing lights with multi strike ignition systems. You have to click 'show more' to see it though. At least I do on my computer.

I searched your channel yesterday for a timing light video! Perfect timing . Going to recurve my distributor at the weekend

thanks mate for what your doing, down in australia we dont get a lot of theses types shows made here. keep up the great work.

Man, have I stumbled onto a gold mine. I love this channel ❤️

I'm glad to see you back

Great info! Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

This channel gave me all my carburetor engine knowledge. You and junkyard digs made me pull the trigger on a 1972 f150 390 v8 it runs but it needs a whole new wiring harness and all the electrical goodies to be on the road. And a lot of rust needs to turn back to metal haha

Excellent video and explanation. This has definitely helped me understand the subject better. Thanks!!

Really good video! I wish you would have explained a little more on the benefits of high octane fuel and the ability to tune your timing for higher compression engines. Most of today's fuels are fairly low octane and with a higher compression engine they really suffer.

Amazing video! Thank you for your time

That is a very interesting distributor. I hope they do well and gain popularity.

That is using the proper amount of washers for that alternator! Great videos...

Very good info, I will look into Progression ignition. Ran duraspark, and with stock HEI modules, MSD and even a Holley Eliminator. The HEI and MSD seemed prettery similar, except the cost. The Holley was noisy, lol old technology. The Engine is a mild stock 1969 429, cammed , with D3 heads, due to valve wear-running Propane, which is hard to light off. Just a single Impco 425, stock intake(weind waiting) in a heavy old 76 F250 Highboy 4x4, 35" tires and sucky 3:55 gears. It runs good though. :-D

Oh heck yeah brother. You just gained another subscriber

Great video! Very helpful!

Awesome video.. I needed that explanation. Now I know how to time my son in laws race car correctly.

I didn't pay much attention to the ignition timing curve when I first started playing with cars. It was several years before I realized that you can make an otherwise good combination of parts very disappointing if you don't take the time to tweak and optimize ignition timing. I realized all of this when I hooked my timing light up to a Mustang 5.0 HO and saw the timing curve start at just off idle and increased very quickly. The old Camaro I had at the time barely showed any advance. Come to find out the mechanical advance was frozen! No wonder it felt like stepping in a bucket of mush when I floored it! It felt like power doubled when I fixed it.

Well, hello! I've been waiting for a new one and here it is.

Great work mate 😊

awesome videos as always Luke!

Back in the 70's I had a 70 Mustang fastback with the 302 two barrel. I set the initial timing at 10 degrees before top dead center and filed the stop on the centrifugal advance to get 32 degrees BTDC total without the vacuum advance. Later I pulled a 351W from a 69 Cougar along with the FMX auto and 9" rear and transplanted the drive train to my Mustang effectively giving it a 69 Mustang Mach I drive train. I set the timing the same as the 302 and it was quite peppy. I enjoyed humiliating 6.6L TransAms with that car!

Your video really helped 🤙 thanks

That ol truck sounds gooooood!!!!!

Thanks now I am more sure of what to do.

That Progression Ignition distributor looks pretty awesome, wished I would of known about it a few years ago when I bought a pertronix for my Cleveland.

Hi Luke! I need your advise sir. Got the 460 BB Mustang ready to fire up after finding TDC on # 1, marked & cleaned balancer and Installed new MSD timing tape (yes, the correct one 6.75"), hand rotated crank/balancer to 18 degrees (initial-Idle) and dropped in the MSD (non-vacuum advance) billet distributor rotor pointing exactly at # 1. I want 36 deg total. NOW, with my dial back timing light, (same one you use) do I set total at 36 first, or 18 deg idle first? Recurved the Dist. light springs and big black bushing that is supposed to limit 18 deg mechanical advance all in by 2500 rpm. Thanks I appreciate you very much. Subscriber Bob

Thank you for the explanation of why total timing in around 3000 rpm is where you want to be and beyond that you do not need more advance because of magical witchcraft :) I have spent years messing with this stuff and never had any one explain the why.

I'm switching to an HEI distributor for my 1970 Ford. Any insights on the summits or the No Name eBay with the blue cap and wires included?

Luke is it true the bigger the cylinder or cubic inch the more timing a car wants? Thanks great real life content

Your the best brother, thanks

I took a shot every time you said "leaving power on the table". So now I'm drunk until Independence Day. In the meantime, what's the story on the Galaxie?

Awsome. Thank you

Another great video;

Good video my brother

Hey Luke. Do you have to do this all over again if you , for example, change the intake and carb from 2 to 4 barrell?

I'm following along with your ignition timing videos. I get that firing too early or too late is leaving power on the table. How do you know the ignition timing is spot on? Butt dyno?

The electronic dizzy that your buddy made. Is there a Ford V6 model or a model I could use in a Ford V6? Ive got a 84 171 V6. Ford Ranger. Couldnt find a Ford V6 model so I figured Id ask the master if I could use one in place of it.

Great video

Thanks Luke .i like how you bring the point home .but getting the highest point will it burn the cylinders up faster? And my 318 has two marks on the hb one all the way across and one half way which is the right one?

Thanks for the cool video

What bracket do you recommend for a 1406 eddelbrock to connect the throttle cable to the carb. What comes in the box does not work. 69 mustang with a 302 and a C4.

Here is a tip for you. Need to check the hormonic balancer to make sure the degree alinement hasn't moved. I have seen them slip on the rubber 12 degrees in the passed.

Thanks. Good videos

Hey! So, I have a '74 K20. I got it running and driving, but it didn't have much power when I stepped on the gas. I thought I needed to adjust the timing and tweak the carburetor. Somehow it was running in a random order before but i didn’t label when I took the plugs off. So I started with the HEI distributor, set it to top dead center, dropped the distributor in, and put the spark plug wires in the right order. But it's still not running right, even though I know there's spark and it's getting gas. It cranks but won't fire, and now the carb is spitting gas out the top.

Thinking about redoing suspension on my 1973 ford f100 any info will be helpful

7:19 and what happens if while throttling up around 3000-3200-3300 rpm, I can see the line on the balancer retarding itself slightly? Bouncing around is more like it. Chevy 350, GM stock HEI, stock vac advance, using stock weights, however I'm using one strong spring and one medium spring. Everything is dialed in but I get a knocking sound under load. Car has power. Running at a base timing of 14 degrees and total at 36 minus vac advance (note sure what the stock can is putting out, 20?)

Awesome video, new sub here. I have my 84 Nissan 720 times wrong. The distributor/oil pump gear is off a tooth and advanced 10 degrees at after being turned to it's max. Seems to be running fine though, and I really don't want to take the front apart again...

When checking total timing with a timing light, does the distributor vacuum hose need to be disconnected ? If so from what point, the carburetor or distributor ?

I was just watching this good video,my question is Im running a 350 with electronic ignition on a 69 c10 my distributor doesn’t have vacuum advance so in order to adjust a total timing do I disconect the single advance wire to adjusted? Thanks!

Curious do you have any of those regulator brackets left if so how can I get 1

The engine, a 4-cylinder 22RE, on my 89 Toyota pickup got wet, and I had to change the airflow sensor. Although doing that got the truck going again, I might have thrown the timing out while trying to fix it because the idle is still very rough. Can I make the timing better from just adjusting the position of the distributer without necessarily using a timing gun? Another thing is that I think there's too much grease build up on the timing cover and balancer to see a degree setting, or does the gun somehow let you see what's needed even if there's grease buildup covering that area? Thanks.

very well made video

What does it means when there’s a very strong fuel smell coming from the tail pipe? I have a small block 350

How do I know how much total timming I need? Your video is better than most. Actually explained what it is and how to get find out where it currently is without all the filler. Lol But would like to see something that goes into setting up an unknown engine.. find and set base timing, adjust carb, and setting total timing to that engine. As you said.. they are different depending on the engine. And even with better ignition components and different fuel than what was available 50+ years ago. Might have required 5deg timing back in 1949.. but now with better stuff that same engine can run better on 10 or 16.

I was told to turn your balancer till your #1 pistion is on TDC and mark the 0 line with white marker paint and the line on the balancer. then take a digital caliper and adjust so the one tip is on the O and the other tip is on the 10 and lock it then take a white or some other color paint markers and measure out 10° s each time and draw a line so you have 20,30,40 lines on the balancer so you can get a more accurate reading with a timing light on stock balancers

The MORE you learn, the LESS you know...

I have a 1984 ford f250 I believe a 302 with a 1405 edelbrock carb. I can't seem to get it to go past 45mph in 4th gear. Would correcting the timing help with it? It goes faster in 3rd gear. When I shift into 4th it drops power and speed. Any advice is appreciated.

I found a conservative timing can help you run the cheap 87 and when you can spring for the 93 you can add 3 to 4 degrees detonation is a big issue for me in Florida we are on the average 40 feet heat soak is also a big issue for me a lot of times I have to keep my timing modest when you stop at a gas station and heat soak put you at 210 degrees the cylinder pressure can get high when you took your Galaxy down south to go to school did you have to pull a little timing? So it would start easier in the afternoon when it was all heat soaked

thank you

Hi Luke, thanks for the video, can you or anyone else explain this to me plz? This is the first time I did the timing belt on my '93 Accord. The last time the timing belt/water pump was done by a mechanic about 5 years ago, who has been since retired. The car was running smoothly, however when I opened up the timing cover, I found the crank pulley was 1 tooth off to the left of the mark where it is supposed to be, the left balancer pulley was about 2 teeth off to the left, and the right balancer pulley was about 6 teeth off to the right. I marked all the belts and pulley location as where they were. I then set the pulleys and belts to tdc and lined up as per service manual. Put everything back together, and now the car doesn't run like it was before I set the timing belt and pulleys back according the manual, what gives? Was the old mechanic correct to off set the pulleys in the first place? Should I go with the manual and keep it as is and then adjust it with the "ray" gun and the distributor? I've everything marked so I can always go back and set as the mechanic did but would prefer to do it as the manufacture intended it so I can learn along the way too. Thanks.

I’m running a standard GM HEI (1978 unit) on my 350 olds. I’m only getting 8-10 degrees mechanical advance out of it. Causes me to run 22 initial just make it to 30 total timing in by 3k rpm. I’ve had the distributor apart, cleaned all grease out and made sure everything is freely moving and still the same issue. Any ideas or is it just a smog era distributor and I should be looking for a replacement? I’ve also tried the Moroso recurve kit and didn’t do anything for my mechanical advance . Thanks

Soo what can be wrong on my 1955 ford y block. Renovated the engine and bored to a 292 from a 272. Had to go up in size on my main jets because it didn't want to respond to the gas above idle. Now it does that but over half throttle it's dead. Nothing happens more than it want to backfire at higher rpms in the pipes and the carb. But on "cruising" it works ok. It feels like timing issues.

a way to build a cheap engine dyno just using basic sensors it may not be computerized but it would at lease show you the gain you do on the engine enjoyed your video take care oh i want to see that oven in the back to lol

I just put a new crank seal on my mustang and replaced the timing belt. I tried using a timing light I got from advance auto which has a bunch of buttons and stuff but the light was just constantly on. why?

I'd like to know more about vacuum advance, and how to use it under load to get the best performance

Funny, I see all these dist. with vacuum adv. I was in H.S. in the late 60's early 70's, lotsa HP cars around. I built a 56 chevy panel van with an olds motor that kept up with very built 350 Camaros. Point being everybody thru out the vacuum advance and curved dist without.

Thanks Um I don't think you mentioned anything about high altitudes requiring advancing the timing more for those vehicles that live there.

Hey I need help ! I took your advice and got a progressive ignition installed it with relay that ws easy enough but generating a table ?? need help I got a stock 390 got under 100 k miles on it stock tranny it was doing OK but distributor was worn out I'm planning on upgrading to a mild cam so I decided on progressive ING I'm Jerry out of kingsburg cal I could really use a hand

So how has the progression distributor worked out? I've contacted the owner a few times with questions and lucky to get a half ass answer

I'm starting to believe you are rite even on my tractors that I pull my farmall super m woke up thanks

Do you by chance live in North Ga.? LOL If so I need to stop by

So how is your new distributor from progression ignition? Any problems?

What SC...brand...u running on that I like how the carb..is on top of the SC...

@thunderhead289. Dont you think that setting total timing you basically ramp up the engine to the 3000 rpm. And then adjust your distributor in the same fashion you do with manifold vacuum except your finding the balance with total timing. Of course as long as you have your transfer slots not pull vacuum on idle. But in other words.. your engine is only going to pull a total timing no matter how you adjust your distributor left or right. There will be the sweet spot. Again as long as your transfer slot is right. And as long as your mechanical advance is working right??? Help! Cuz Im not sure if Im getting everything out of my motor. Or if its just that my stock heads wont flow right. I have AFR and have things right there. But i get a shaky motor around 2000 rpm to 3000.

Thank you TH289!!! Trying to get my 460 BBF (Carb) engine back in timing to start it. When I pulled the MSD distributor To actuate the oil pump to prime the engine (sat for 2+ years) put everything back just like it was before, now it wont start. Balancer has not TDC mark or tape on it. So i did the finger over #1 spark plug hole until it blew my thumb off the hole. Is that close enough to mark a TDC mark on balancer as long as rotor is very close to #1 position under the cap on #1 wire? Thanks, I don't understand the piston stop thing yet.

This is great and all, but I'm still confused about how the timing light knows when 30 degrees or 35 degrees etc has passed on the crank. It only gets one signal from the wire so how would it know it's turning at 1500rpm or 5000rpm? Does it measure every 2 sparks to determine how to trigger the strobe by figuring out the time in between each plug firing? Like does it count how long it is between every 720 degrees and then divide that time by 720 to figure out every degree? I hope that kind of makes sense

I love the guys that adjust timing by ear🤣😂🤣😂

EXCELLENT video! How would I figure out what the total timing should be?

Can you get an idea of your compression ratio by total time

hi guy because i beleive cam was upgraded an i didnt get a cam card when i bought car i dont know if this effects the timing.but if i use this type of gun can i use it in reverse to find my true timing . if i have gun set at zero my timing is about 12 degreese can i start turning up this type gun till my mark hits zero n thats what my timing is supposed to be ???? thanks scott

Oh man I need your help for my timing on my 1994 mustang gt I’m trying to advance it

Where should the rotor be facing on a 351 w its at top dead center

If the initial timing doesn't match the timing mark on the pulley, you'd have to compensate for that, correct? Say it's showing an initial 5 degrees advanced when it's actually 0. If you're shooting for 33 total timing, you'd want the light to actually sync with the timing mark at 38 degrees. Is that correct?

Hey Luke, I have a question! How do I set my idle set screws with only ported vacuum?

So, my truck pulls really good but when shifting from 2nd to 3rd (4spd manual) under hard acceleration, it stumbles bad getting back in the throttle. That an initial timing issue or jetting issue?