No2TheNWO true I couldn't agree more.

A stick huh

Justin Riley it’s the same difference just more work removing the Val covers

Yeah but be sure it drops back down into the oil pump drive. It will only line up in 2 positions unless you turn motor over and push down on rotor botton.

On the Balancer

You need to disconnect the timing connector which is either located on the firewall or behind the glovebox. You don't disconnect the plug on the distributor. You start the truck, then you set the timing to 0, turn the truck off, and plug it back in.

Helo

Help

Yes.

Fuel Injection Sucks I did Tdc at 0 it didn’t work then I did 20 it didn’t work, where should I set the harmonic balancer before dropping in the distributor?

@@z28punisher42 it has to be 0 on the compression stroke, make sure it's not on the exhaust stroke. The mark will line up two times.

Fuel Injection Sucks alright thank you I’ll try that now

Backfiring through the carb is a lean issue. Sounds like you have a vacuum leak. The carb is a little undersized but it should still run fine and not cause the issues you are having. Are you using a spread bore to quadrajet adapter? Because those are the devil.

@@FuelInjectionSucks it's the square borebi believe

@@FuelInjectionSucks besides it running like this why does it run fine for a little bit after it back fire out of the carb

@@tommyyarbery379 idle surging and backfiring is not running ok.

@@FuelInjectionSucks no definitely not. I just meant that after it would back fire the surging would stop and the truck would run smooth for about 30 min give or take then it would surge again

Initial at idle. Total is your total combined timing once the mechanical advance is fully engaged, usually between 2500-3500 rpm.

@@FuelInjectionSucks Gotcha. Would it be true to say the following? If the manual is calling for the following: Remove vac advance and plug from carb, start engine and run at idle speed, set initial timing to 8 degrees BTDC @ 900 RPMs; you won't dick around and try to set total timing after setting the base timing correct? You should get 32-36 degrees of total timing around 3000 RPMs and that's taking into account what the distributor is adding when the vac advance is kicking in? This is for a Chevy 350 in a Corvette with no A/C and manual.

@@pattygq Yes. They unplug the vac advance just to make sure it's not engaging, but it shouldn't be anyway. Then you set the initial to 8. Mechanical advance should get you around 35 total. Factor in vacuum, and it's probably 45-50, but vacuum advance disengages under load.

u time it like vw time it at low rpms and at high rpms find the in between setting for timing but i would get the vacuum advance u will get better performance and mpg

@@jeffrey4547 im working on getting the distributor with vacuum advance, gonna try it properly this weekend,,thanks ,

s did u know a sb chevy distributor is the same as a bb chevy all u do is change the counter weights works the same

Giovanni Krasniqi learn to work on your own stuff and you won't have to worry about other people opinions

I realize you posted this a year a go but allow me to explain what your guy meant. A distributor has a specific amount of advance available. Depending on the manufacturer, usually about 20 degrees total. So if your guy set the base timing at 14 he is essentially setting total timing to 34 degrees. (14 degrees base + 20 degrees built into distributor = 34 total timing) the 20 degrees built into the distributor comes from a combination of mechanical and vacuum advance. So your guy feels the total timing is more important for engine performance Most performance builders dont care what the base timing is set at. They want to make sure timing can advance enough for high rpm performance. So they will set the distributor up so total timing is 34 to 36 degrees. If set at 36 total, subtract out the 20 built into the distributor so base timing would be 16 degrees. Some older V8 engines specs called for 8-10 degrees base timing. Add the 20 degrees built in to the 10 degrees base and that makes the total 30 degrees. 30 degrees total timing makes for sluggish performance at higher rpm. Thats why they like using total timing. Mechanical timing usually start advancing at about 1000 or so rpm and is usually all in at 3000 or so. Vacuum advance if connected to port vacuum will start advancing timing as soon as you step on throttle. If vacuum advance canister is connected to manifold vacuum it will advance the timing while the engine is idling.

​Farmer Jim Close, but not quite. " The 20 degrees built into the distributor comes from a combination of mechanical and vacuum advance"...this is incorrect, mechanical advance and vacuum advance never combine to get 20 degrees. The 20 degrees comes from the mechanical advance weights and center plate in the distributor only. The vac advance has its own amount of advance it adds. The vac advance was designed to add extra timing during low load/high vacuum conditions because lean mixtures burn slowly and rich mixtures burn quickly. What are the low load/high vacuum conditions? Idle & cruise. Vac advance adds extra timing in these conditions to light the fire earlier in the compression cycle to ensure a complete burn and MUST be connected to manifold vacuum as it was designed to be. Connected to ported you will not get the extra advance needed at idle (which also helps with cooling) and during acceleration you'll be adding advance to a rich mixture that actually needs less advance. For peak engine performance, driveability, idle cooling, improved gas mileage, and efficiency on a street driven vehicle, you need vacuum advance connected to full manifold vacuum. Period

You're trying to tell us how to do timing and you ain't never done your time in yourself we're supposed to take your word somebody to let somebody else do it

Yes, but if it is still fuel injected you have a bunch of other things to contend with. Your timing has to be set using a scan tool.

@@FuelInjectionSucks how much will the factory ecm allow the timing to be taylored with the scan tool? Are there 'read only' ecm's versus 'open' or programmable ones available somewhere?

Its a 350. Its a GM 195hp crate motor.

yea i got a chevy 350

Tom Ibach correct Tom its call static, when the engine is running is called dynamic timming.

???...

Everybody got their thing I guess..

the rotor should be pointed towards the number 2 but it has no relation to the block what so ever if you look at the original schematics its pointed in that direction that is the only way u can get accurate start at all times not every once in a while have a slip in the start and also have maximum power with advanced timing.

u are correct on the compression stroke part and being able to put number 1 wherever u want but u will know the difference when u take it to the track.

diegomora you haven’t a clue.

John Phillips jr Seriously tried the way the original schematics tell you and then test it after that and see what response you get from your vehicle and trust me you would never do it another way again