I’ve built them several different ways, but those high pressure clamps can be sourced from Southbend Industrial which is local to be, or Harbor Freight carries them in store as well. The trick is to index each end of the part accurately then fill in the critical point working towards the middle of the part so you don’t chase it out of alignment working one end to the other.

Here’s a fixture video! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bdmllbSbqZ2nl6c.html

Thanks! Fun looking back, this is a few years old & I’m always learning/working to improve

I’m always tweaking and adjusting years later, travel speed and torch angle really come into play as well

Awesome, glad I could help!

Thanks I appreciate it!

Thanks! Development of the tooling is just as fun as the parts themselves

Good luck with it! Take your time on the prep work & fitment and it’ll make welding the fun/easy part

Right with proper back purge. The point of that example was that cheap imported parts that are fusion welded typically are not, and a very weak and “sugared” weld is the result. You cannot out run oxidation on reactive materials. Some kind of preventative measures need to be in place to shield the back side of the weld, otherwise it’s going to be porous with only microscopic penetration

They don’t list them as extruded, but Verocious & Stainless Bros sell them “90 degree Elbows, 1.5D bend radius (normal) or 1D would be tight radius

Alrighty. Thanks!!!

I clean them up with a 80grit flap disk and as little pressure as possible

Blue Demon pink, 88amps for .065 and 105 for adding hangers & bungs

The polished stuff is 3A food and dairy grade 304 so it’s already nice and shined up inside & out right out of the box. To prep mill finish 304 I use three different grit of scotch bright working from course to fine which works very well

It’s Weldtables.com 36x48 3/8” thick, and I absolutely love it. I plan to buy a second identical one so I can spread them apart for large jobs like a driveway gate where one big table wouldn’t be realistic

It’s been a popular one, I’ll definitely do some more welding/fabrication specific videos

@@BaunPerformance subscribed. Good work bro

No I’ve never used it, but it would absolutely be better than no purge solution at all.

Used it years ago to repair ss aircraft exhaust manifolds, works well.

It gets the job done without sugaring but not the best but good, no replacement for back purging

It's a reasonable alternative to back purging but it leaves a glassy residue where it's been applied and then subjected to weld heat. Most of the time that is no issue. After it's applied and before welding it's easy to wipe or scrape off so you need to be a bit careful. It can be an especially good problem solver if you are unable to back purge.

www.ticonindustries.com/collections/tools

Thank you!

Absolutely, being properly purged is the biggest thing

Thanks! 🇺🇸

Good idea! I do have a short showing the process, but I could do a full length video as well

TIG Welding Arc Shots! Adding 304 Stainless Hangers to Mk7 GTI Exhaust kzfaq.info8x9YG_dgLxc?feature=share

Thanks!! Any recommendations on that size rod to buy and where to buy rods? Is it more cost effective to just buy a long rod and make the bends then buying pre bent rods? I’m making a custom exhaust now. (1st job ever). And Im stuck with hanging it up since some of the factory locations won’t work anymore.

I purchased this 1/2” 304 stainless bar stock / exhaust hanger rod from Verocious Motorsports. It’s much cheaper than pre formed 90* exhaust hangers (which I also use from them, but won’t work in this application due to odd angles & my fixture not allowing for ball ends). IIRC they sell these in 3’ lengths to save on shipping, so even if you buy 12’ you’ll get 4 sticks, 3’ long.

@@BaunPerformance thanks I’ll look into it.

100% Argon on the TIG, but back in the day when I only had a MIG I used Trimix on it for stainless.

@@jakebaun8422 thanks. Yea I have a mig. Thinking about going tig for exhaust work and cleaner finish work

Verocious Motorsports, I use them for almost all of my materials

For 0.65 butt welds I run 88amps, and v bands or hangers I crank it up to 105 (slower on 1/2” hangers than the flanges).

@@BaunPerformance I appreciate the feedback.

There were a few insisting on using 60amps for those type of welds and it took 3-4x longer than you were taking. Another youtuber discussed this in that the 100amps you are able to work much faster and put less heat into the product as a result for a cleaner weld. It certainly looks like the 105amps you discussed is about perfect.@@BaunPerformance

.065” 304L

Keeping it clean!

Verocious Motorsports

I can, but it would still be about $200 plus shipping

It’s so hard to bite my tongue on some of the “big name” stuff out there people eat up without realizing how poor the quality really is.

Shot in one take, they’re never perfect

Lol