Glad it helped

Good luck. Remember - firm, quick shifts work every time.

I have another video showing you how to remove those parts.

@@TigerCreekFarm i didnt see it on your page.

Here it is. First mod I did after constant ES failures - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l7V3qMig1cmWm30.html

The bipass kit is available.

It should still display current gear and not be stuck in gear. By removing the "transfer gearing" all you were doing is eliminating the electric shift motor from being involved in the shifting process. Sounds like something was not reinstalled in the proper position and that the shift indicator is not plugged in.

TigerCreekFarm The only thing that I unplugged was the connection at the frame. I then removed the motor and pulled the three gears. Reinstalled the motor and connected the connection. I even double checked the connection. Not sure how this caused this because, like you said, all I did is remove mechanical parts. I didn’t mess with the electronics.

CJPrasek05 I know you don’t want to hear this but you need to retrace your steps. Something isn’t installed correctly or you wouldn’t be having any problems. Been there many times with many projects and it’s usually something simple or overlooked.

TigerCreekFarm I will. This time I won’t reinstall the steel skid plate until I know it’s working correctly. Just don’t know how anything is incorrect. It’s straight forward.

CJPrasek05 it happens. Good luck!

wsfd4321 we were selling an old vehicle and the fellow offered this as a trade. We took him up on it. Motor is very dependable - electronics are not. Use this thing all of the time around here - ended up being a good trade. Still can’t get over the fact that a 4 wheeler can be worth more than a car 🤦‍♂️

Mine was a similar experience as yours. The ES has the built-in option to manual shift but I believe the intent was to be able to limp the wheeler home. In our case when they prove unreliable and really costly to fix properly we need options. I have been using mine completely manually shifting for several years now. It takes a bit of practice to shift properly - short quick shifts - so you're not hammering the transmission. My opinion is if you are considerate of your machine and aware of the conditions in which you are shifting you shouldn't be harming the transmission. One of the reasons I removed the gearing between the ES motor and the transmission was to limit the drag and the opportunity that I could bind or strain in the shifts. Good luck and use huge doses of common sense and you should be fine.

I greatly appreciate your reply... thanks At first I thought it was an issue with the handle bar shifting buttons ..... a replacement part being $500 or so. I talked to my local small engine go-to-guy and he did some work on the shift-motor and all seemed to be well. When the problem reappeared, we talked again and thought it might be the shift sensor and/or solenoid ..... but now I'm leaning more towards the over-heating possibility .... after all, snow-plowing does involve a great deal of forward and reversing and not much chance is had for any decent air-cooling to happen. I'm still going to make-up one of your manual shifting lever fittings ...... as you say ..... at least I can "limp the wheeler home" if necessary !! Thanks again for your come-back.

Not in my case.

AMEN! That’s why the old 300ex were bulletproof! No electronic crap!

Oh ya man I drive same foreman es manually by foot or hand with that same emergency wrench those man has. It's a old farmers wheeler do what u gotta do dont rely on that electronic crap lol

There is no clutch - a momentary lack of accelerating allows the shift to happen.

That's a brake not a clutch !

Garrett Brown simply put, I removed the shift motor. It is not necessary but it helps to eliminate some of the resistance felt with the motor gearing teeth still engaged. Pretty simple job. I demonstrate it here - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l7V3qMig1cmWm30.html

A temporary or rider specific change is what makes this hard. Your grandson's idea (they will always come up with something!) is a pretty simple and direct solution. Another thought along those same lines is a solid rod with a shoe that would fit over the end of the pedal. It would allow for pushing and pulling - and could be slid on when you need it and off when you don't. The other thought is to change the angle of the shift pedal to give you more room and leverage - or lengthening it along the same angle. Good luck!

I’d spend $20 to buy one like this.

Hope it helps.

Norman Rose yep

450

Thank you.

Something in the range of a 3/16 machine bolt.

Thanks

Brandon Jackson I ran across a video from these people years ago - before I started having all of my shift problems - and it left that seed planted in my head. hondaesshifter.com

TigerCreekFarm awesome thank you!!

Brandon Jackson 👍

The hand shifter did not solve my electronic shifting problems - it just made manually shifting easier for me rather than using the foot shifter.