what’s the exact babe of the lifter?

Thank you sir!

This guy is a good framer

Thank you. My pleasure!

Thank you! Cheers!

Thank you.

Yes! Thank you!

Much appreciated

Thank you so much! I learned from books, videos and by lots trial and error before starting.

@Ali Zaidi Thank you! The concrete slab is 12 x 24. Each post sits 5 inches away from the concrete edges. I don’t have the roof overhang dimensions on hand but I can get them to you if needed. Let me know if so. The posts are 9' 1 13/16" from ground to plate.

Thanks

Thanks! The knee braces are 4' 9 9/16" between tenon corners and 4' 3 7/8" between the housings of the post and plates/ties. I found that arching the knee braces will allow more headroom. The posts are 9' 1 13/16" from ground to plate.

Thanks. Beams are about 26’.

Thank you! I rented the one I used. The lift brand is Genie which is owned by a company named Terex. Here's the Genie website. www.genielift.com/en/material-handling-products/material-lifts

Thank you. I purchased the cedar from a supplier in Houston, but they would have sourced it elsewhere from the West. I naively purchased expensive clear cedar (as opposed to knotty) for the posts, ties and braces because I was needlessly worried about encountering knots where tenons and mortises needed to be. The clear cedar unexpectedly arrived dry. The delivery guy said they do not sell much of the clear cedar so I presume it had been sitting around long enough to dry although I suppose they could have purchased it dry from their supplier. The Doug Fir plates were wet and contained knots and I had no trouble working with them. I was prepared to accommodate all green wood by adjusting the joinery accordingly, but it was nice not to have to do that for the dry pieces.

@@LouisStorms o

Thanks! 4”x10”.

Thanks! The posts are 8x8. The ties (short beams) and plates (long beams) are both 8x12.

@@LouisStorms Did you use any books as a reference? I’m in the process of planning to build one, but I have come across several books, read the reviews and many don’t recommend them for beginners or they really have no much information about “How to do it” any books or websites that may help with joinery, and all that information? Actually I’m having a lot of trouble figuring out the height, and the pitch of the roof.. :(

@@jc-kn5bq he answered that some where else...he recomended 3 diferent books, and he both the plans from a web site.

I rented the one you see in the video from a local rental shop in Houston since I only needed it for two days. The lift brand is Genie which is owned by a company named Terex. Here's the Genie website. www.genielift.com/en/material-handling-products/material-lifts

@Joe Savoury I bought a base plan from TimberFrameHQ.com and then modified it.

Thanks. I looked at various design alternatives for the plates, not so much out of concern about safety during raising but because I was very anxious about the ~24' beam spans. Note that I was working with an existing 12' x 24' slab that was originally a foundation for a pergola. I found that the 12' side made it difficult to add additional posts for example, without compromising usable space. After significant research and spreadsheet gymnastics the beam span calculations indicated that I'd be more than fine with 8"x12" Doug Fir plates.

@@LouisStorms thanks for your answer bro. 8"x12" top plate that is massive. I been searching for thick post in my country....the thicker i found is 8"×8", this kind of timber frame construction is not popular yet.....i hope one day ill be the first one.

@michael Richardson I rented the one you see in the video from a local rental shop. The lift brand is Genie which is owned by a company named Terex. Here's the Genie website. www.genielift.com/en/material-handling-products/material-lifts

How did you get the lift into the back yard. Is it really heavy?

Thanks! The rafters are spaced 34” on center.

It’s the only genie I have ever seen in action on any screen

I might do a brief video to show how the fence/gate has held up on its 1 year anniversary. My next video(s) will likely focus on my current project which is a masonry fireplace (Isokern), corresponding framing and dry stack natural stone veneer for the outdoor kitchen.

I used a chain mortiser for the mortises and a router for the housings.

4, 10” timber screws in each rafter. Simpson Strong-Tie SDWS221000DB-R50 10" x .220 Timber Screws (Exterior Grade) 50ct www.amazon.com/dp/B008XZZK2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7ZH8HYFAE4DRCW6V14EB

J'ai loué celui que j'ai utilisé. La marque de l'ascenseur est Genie, qui appartient à une société nommée Terex. Voici le site Web de Génie. www.genielift.com/en/material-handling-products/material-lifts

Hi Old School. Before you start, I recommend that you learn about the square rule if you’ve not already done so. Chapter 3 in this book covers it. a.co/7zfZMk9. There’s also a “Rules of Thumb” section in chapter 5 that addresses all of your questions around tenon dimensions. Just to be clear, I don’t profit in any way from sales of that book. I bought it myself and learned from it before I started my project. - Louis

@@LouisStorms Thank you Sir, the wife is ordering it as we speak. Appreciate you taking a moment to respond to my questions.

@@interestinoldschool8080 You are welcome. Let me know if you have any more questions.

@@LouisStorms Your videos were very encouraging, thank you so much Louis. Heres a link to my progress, used hemlock though, clear cedar was definitely not in my budget...lol. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jp2DqdOiv7vQc6M.html

@Interest in old school Wow! You pulled it off! Congratulations. That was super fast.

I ordered plans, modified them and then made everything myself.

I rented the one I used. The lift brand is Genie which is owned by a company named Terex. Here's the Genie website. www.genielift.com/en/material-handling-products/material-lifts

When I studied timber framing concepts, the authors often pointed out that knee brace pegs don’t really have much practical value. As long as the posts are anchored at their bases and sufficiently secured to the plates and ties at the top, the knee braces can’t come out. They are essentially locked in. I bought the saws just for this project. I’ve since used most of the tools I purchased on other projects. The one notable exception is the chain mortiser. At some point in the not too distant future I hope to build a timber frame cabin on rural property (that I don’t have yet). When that time comes I’ll be glad to still have the mortiser.

@@LouisStorms It would be nice to see a break test on that type of joint.

There’s no stress on the pegs in the braces. If there is something else has gone terribly wrong.

timberframehq.com/knee-brace-tenon-and-mortise-1-12-layout/ “Braces have been found in old barns without any pegs at all. Braces work in compression. “

@@LouisStorms If you read down the page you linked, you will find the following quote from Mario R Kodrzynski: "Under wind load one brace of the portal frame is under tension and the other is in compression..." The rest of his post is in line with my thinking. You can imagine looking at the side of your roof as the wind hits it from the right. The wind would try to push the structure to the left. The knee brace on the left corner would be in compression and the right would be in tension as the rectangle formed by the posts and beam tries to lean to the left into a parallelogram. Failure with your design would require breaking the 3 pegs and joint at each end of the cross beam in addition to the 2 pegs in the knee brace under tension. Of course there are other factors, and maybe your roof is good like it is. However, I don't see anything about the shape and angle of those knee brace joints that would prevent them from pulling out if a tension force broke the pegs. I could be missing something and be wrong, but I also build structures and like to make sure they are strong.

Ayub Mohd Nor 8”x8”

Я использовал переводчик гугл. Я надеюсь, что это имеет смысл. Я арендовал лифт, показанный на видео, в местном пункте проката. Бренд лифтов Genie принадлежит компании Terex. Вот сайт Джини. www.genielift.com/en/material-handling-products/material-lifts

I rented the one you see in the video from a local rental shop. The lift brand is Genie which is owned by a company named Terex. Here's the Genie website. www.genielift.com/en/material-handling-products/material-lifts

I bought my base plans from TimberFrameHQ.com and then just modified them.

@Herr Leonhardt It hasn’t been through it’s first hurricane yet which I suppose is the benchmark in Houston for “sturdy enough”. Otherwise, it’s done well in typical inclement weather. Doesn’t move, shake, sway etc.

Slab is 12'x24'.

4x10”

@@LouisStorms thanks....👍

The program is called SketchUp. Jay Bates has great guidance and tutorials here. jayscustomcreations.com/sketchup/

@Scott Tillman This was my first timber frame project.

@@LouisStorms Very Nice. How did you calculate the cuts and dimensions? Did you use some software? There seems like there is such precision that a design seems to be a must.

@@tillmansr2002 I bought plans from TimberFrameHQ.com for a 12’ x 16’ frame. I then modified the plans to accommodate my 12’ x 24’ slab and created a 3D model in software called Sketchup. My videos don’t show the many, many hours of lessons from mistakes on practice runs. This short video shows a couple of the practice pieces for example. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/etmgfJad0s6uf4k.html.

@Scott. What lesser beam size, in Doug Fir, for a ~24’ span, stays under the deflection limit for a roof load in Houston, TX?

@Lance Keen. Awesome project. Absolutely love it. As for your timber logistics challenge here’s what initially came to mind based on the info you provided. Presumably the timbers are too long to be towed behind anything such that they’d clear the switchbacks. So, my first pass idea is to use anchored wench points along a straight line from the bottom to the top. Clad each timber in a protective sleeve. Could be sacrificial 2x4s or plywood or sheet metal. The sleeve design is a project itself. Once the timber is protected, wench it to the first anchored wench point, anchor the timber and then move the wench to the next anchor point. Repeat until the timber is at the top. Remove protective sleeve and repeat. If it’s too laborious or treacherous for you to climb down the straight line between anchor points to reattach the wench cable to a timber, maybe taught smaller (in diameter) cable segments between wench anchor points could serve as a zip line for lowering the heavier wench cable. This would allow you to drive back and forth between each wench location without having to climb up or down.

Может, у них друзья бесплатно не помогают?

@@user-fe9nq4vn6g ага) как в том анекдоте: "...нет у меня больше друзей... ")))

@@Egor_ZDE если бы у нас можно было бы тоже взять в прокат такой волшебный подъемник - я, может, и сам бы такой навесик построил:)

@@user-fe9nq4vn6g про подъемник, согласен, интересная штуковина, при чем, встречаю еë уже не первый раз на видео разных авторов. У нас таких не встречал.

@Mario Gatica Hi Mario, I wish I had a better explanation for this. There was an old pergola on the slab where I built my outdoor kitchen. I used the same kind of post bases for mine. That said, I did some homework in advance, but only to validate the suitability of the post bases for my structure. I didn't look into alternatives. I can generally recall that I liked: 1) The bases keep the posts about 1" off the ground and out of any standing water. 2) They can withstand the uplift forces in Houston, TX. 3) They can move slightly around the anchor bolts to accommodate any minor errors I made that would impact the post location.

@@LouisStorms thank you for your answer.... Yes, i notice that this kind of post base, let you move the bolt and the base a litle, if need it. And thank you again..you always willing to answer any question....👍