Pull it and tap it.. don't rig it, Cam's are the heart beat of the motor, they come out of sync your motor dies as the price or turns into a high dollar fix vs just spending a little more time. The motor has a access hook on top to lift by hoist or you can just put a block of wood under oil pan and disconnect motor mount and get the front wheel off, for ease of access, It's a little tight but do able. Clean the threads out and re-cut them. If there is not enough meat may have to helicoil You JB weld something that is meant to come apart and something happens again and it can't come apart, then what? New motor over a .15 cent bolt? That don't make sense man... if it were a non-important fastener that would be one thing, anything internal I'd always make sure to fix properly.

Non interference. It's worth trying a new timing belt.

Should all move together with no play.

the cams only lock in place one way!!

TheDareall If it has a slot a piece of metal can slide into like it shows... and his belt came OFF.. then yeah it can be 180 off completely the other direction is what he is saying, and can be instant catastrophic failure and he don't want to do that, he is asking if there is any other things that show these cam's are pointed to TDC so they are in sync with each other and the rotating assembly. That's a very logical question. Yeah they can lock in one way.. OR THE OTHER.. don't be so quick to be such a smartass, because your misinformation can cause someone else to fuck their whole motor up because you didn't know what YOU were talking about. If you know the answer then answer the damn question. What are the indicators and which direction is it pointed? Does it point at the balancer like it would a V8 (no) or does it point up with the indicators for TDC. That's the question... he wants to know how he can tell.

BoostedBadBoy It's literally written right in there, in the manual, it's on all the forums, that's like the easiest part of the job. It's clearly shown in the haynes manual, the shop manual would detail further I expect. And btw, it's the second one on the silvertop, to the right, there may or may not be 3 marks but the one to the right is supposed to be it. Who knows, maybe the other is for the 1.6 turbo models?

this can be done in about an hour. The person who did this video probably took about 2 hours to do this job

If you even think its your timing belt, stop trying to start it. That can cause major cylinder head damage.

Also a timing light can help.

The Ztec is NOT an interference motor. Continuing to try to start is going to run your battery down, not break anything.

97warlock ismyname If you still have the car, rest assured that the silvertop engines (in America/Canada) are non-interference.

@@edlingja1 UPDATE............... its about 3 years later since I posted my comment , I just jumped timing, 140k miles on the motor, NOW im faced with the issue now.

@@edlingja1 Are u sure theyre non interference in USA? atleast that would be some good news.

Gslash25 The only way to professionally lock the cams with the ford cam tool (diy flat-stock length). It's like impossible to do it without removing the cover..

ah, I know that now because I did mine 2 days ago but thanks though

HaroRider03088 It was the computer compensating for slightly off timing. There was definitely clunking going on in there. Could have just been valvetrain noise as the cams settled though. Potential of uneven cam bearings/related problems. Glad it's a non-interference engine still running alright :)

What are you talking about??? It's been nearly a year and all is fine on this repair.

EdzGarage I don't want to poke, but you're lucky it's a non-interference silvertop model... It didn't initially tun over because the computer was trying to start on the fixed map fuel table (2 mins long after start up), the note was definitely off but as you know by driving the car it's okay. The computer is just working harder on not detonating and such. It should pretty much sound like a rough metallic purr & NO clunking. It isn't exceptionally smooth but it's decidedly NOT clunky when done correctly.

3865roofer You got the blacktop one then. Get the correct part and it will fit perfectly. Google doesn't help very much, just buy a shop manual instead. Use that to correct the haynes manual, and you can do almost anything!

derzx 479 Lol, you can change the cam bearings and stuff as well? Maybe he wanted to get it all nice and clean. I mean, if you're opening stuff anyways.