That’s to bad. It’s true that the key to keeping the toilet from moving is a solid flange.

Exactly what Im dealing with. Offset flange, chipped out concrete leaving big void when original was installed, roots from effing palm trees in back yard below flange. So I had to clean out around the pipe, remove the old rotted sheet metal steel flange. vacuum out the hole and fill with Cement All. Now to attach repair ring to Cement All with heavy stainless screws and install the toilet .

Exactly what I'm doing today which lead me to the video😡.

Thanks for the feedback! You’ve got this!

Glad it was helpful!

That is a good option. Thanks!

Why does wax on the offset flange break apart easily?

Breaking out cement is common experience for plumbers who are not careful about getting the pipes where they should be the first time. Thanks for watching!

Hello Zachary. It is hard to get the flange to exactly the right height if the floor is not there. At the same time, this repair needs to be done before the tile is in. If the flange is a little lower than the tile, you can add an extra bowl wax to ensure the seal. Or you might experiment with spacing the flange up. If you keep it up 1/2" above the concrete you would not be too far off. But you want to make sure that the flange is secured and will not move. So I prefer to just deal with a low flange. Glad this was helpful!

I am located in Utah.

That’s a great option. Just watch out that the inside cutter does not go down the drain.

Thanks a lot!

Hello. Good questions. 1. Yes. I cemented the brass screws in. I made that up. You could just pour cement and drip in some anchors. But I like my method. It would be more involved later. Those brass screws will not be coming out without breaking cement again. But the brass should last a long time which is why I used them. 2. Flange will depend on what type and size of pipe you have. If you don’t need to change the center then you will not need an offset flange. The most important thing will be to make sure it is anchored well. You can purchase metal repair flanges that you can anchor in without breaking out cement if you are just needing to repair the flange. 3. If your flange is above the floor, you can use a single wax. If it holds the toilet up a little bit then you can add shims, but I try not to shim more than 1/4”. The repair flange I mentioned would be tight to the tile. Most plumbing suppliers would carry those of you are looking for one. Good luck!

True statement. Thanks for watching.

Took about six hours not including time at suppliers. I worked on it for two days.

The outlet does fit inside of a pipe, but it is necessary to remove the material from the existing pipe to provide room for the offset.

Thanks for watching!

Hello. Thanks for watching. I just use Quikcrete from Lowe's. It was probably a bit wetter than they would recommend, but I am not the best at guessing proportions. In this case, I agree that it fills in well when it is wet.

There are a variety of options. Charlotte Pipe is good. You should do a search for specs online.

Several options for you. Option 1: 10" rough toilet. Most toilets are made for a flange that centers 12" from the wall. However, manufacturers do produce a version of some of their toilets that are made for flanges that are as close as 10" from the wall. Sometimes they modify the bowl, or just produce a more narrow tank that would fit on the same bowl. You might look into those options for the toilet you have, or replace the toilet. Option 2: tear into the floors or ceilings below to move the toilet flange by repiping. Not fun! But also not impossible. Option 3: Ignore the lid. Put something decorative on top so it is less noticeable. I recommend option 1.

Could be venting issues or problems farther down the drain.

True

Hello. Thanks for watching. Yes, the offset flange should help you move the center over one inch. As you install the flange, you can measure from the wall and turn it to a position that places the center where you want it.

Noted!

Actually, they did. It turned out nice. Any suggestions on what how to do it better? If you are referring to the second half of the video, they put the frame wall in the wrong place. It was bearing the stairs so they refused to move it. I really do try hard to get my pipes in the right place. I check and double check measurements, but sometimes things happen that are out of a plumber's control. I do my best to make things right if I mess up.

Agreed! I've seen some shockingly bad amateur work, and that cut ranks among the worst. If he's a pro, he should be embarrassed. And DIY'ers should look elsewhere for tips & advice.

I understand. Thanks for watching.