Tomoa Narasaki's Revolutionary Step Up Dyno!

Tomoa Narasaki's Revolutionary Step Up Dyno! | Beta Break Ep.14

Рет қаралды 1,117,006

3 жыл бұрын

Check out my in depth video!: • How To Make It Possibl...
Tomoa Narasaki: / tomoa_narasaki
Tomoa Narasaki is a world champion boulderer, but when he tried out speed climbing he revolutionized how speed climbers approach the start of the route. His innovation through his style is the reason why we might see new world records.
/ professorok
My instagram: / professorok
If you're interested in online coaching DM me!
Like, Comment, and Subscribe and let me know what other topics or moments in climbing you want to see next!

Пікірлер: 442

@Svilco 3 жыл бұрын

So real life sports also have meta changes every now and then

@khantin6526 3 жыл бұрын

Lmao This comment soo underrated

@Fabler 3 жыл бұрын

Yikes

@Arisrein 3 жыл бұрын

just like the video games huh

@kaboomsihal1164 3 жыл бұрын

Usually after every other patch or so it seems

@hashir_ 3 жыл бұрын

CODM Vibes

@ibuterin 3 жыл бұрын

I want a relationship as strong as Tomoa’s jawline.

@AlbertOkay 3 жыл бұрын

LOL That would be the strongest relationship ever !

@andrewpatterson3662 3 жыл бұрын

4:04 I'm pretty sure Leonadro Vedoriq climbed that distance faster than I could sprint that distance on a flat surface, lmao.

@fio6459 3 жыл бұрын

Same bruh

@faizaltafian1337 3 жыл бұрын

bet lmao

@toniokettner4821 3 жыл бұрын

so you run 3 m/s? that's jogging speed

@NickRoman 3 жыл бұрын

Yes, these men do not _climb_ up the wall, they run.

@alwaaqiaviandi7403 3 жыл бұрын

Now he break a world record again 5.20 second

@adrien5814 3 жыл бұрын

My theory is that Tomoa is secretly able to fly, his Japanese genes just make him too polite to massively crush other competitors with his giant ass invisible wings

@mindhunter2278 3 жыл бұрын

This comment is pure gold. 👏

@mightypurplelicious3209 3 жыл бұрын

I think your onto something

@noahgreve5679 Жыл бұрын

thats just redbull my dude

@kevinpilon11 3 жыл бұрын

I remember in 2007 watching a dyno competition at my local gym, and no one could get the last dyno, and a guy did a step up dyno and everyone lost it. The competition I mean. Cuz he won.

@OliveTheGolden 3 жыл бұрын

I feel like Tomoa should have kept this tactic a secret for the Olympics

@NickRoman 3 жыл бұрын

That implies that the Olympics is more important than the IFSC. I don't think so.

@clintstechtips6571 Жыл бұрын

@@NickRoman Agreed. The olympics format was a disaster

@feurace Жыл бұрын

@@NickRoman they kinda are ! In a certain way it's more of a country sided compétition. So it's a honor to gain medals

@NoNameAtAll2 Жыл бұрын

@@NickRoman what's ifsc? olympics is known to everyone

@lukea279 Жыл бұрын

@@NoNameAtAll2 international federation of sport climbing

@panda4247 3 жыл бұрын

Tomoa is a beast. With this, he can be a serious medaliast candidate in the olympics. Let's see what Adam does

@shadowmage680 3 жыл бұрын

even without hes a serious candidate for first with his ability to place high in lead and boulder. In IFSCs combined championships last hear he could have not competed in speed and he still would have placed first.

@panda4247 3 жыл бұрын

@@shadowmage680 Yes, exactly. I know he is top in bouldering and almost top in lead (meaning, I would not place him in top 3 lead, but he is excellent anyway) as well. I was just surprised with his speed performance (I don't follow speed at all). I am an Ondra fan, but seeing Tomoa win gold would not be a disappointment for me.

@seanhouchins-mccallum1961 3 жыл бұрын

I think he will win the olympics. Being probably the best boulderer and still crazy good at speed, I think if he places well in lead he’s going to win.

@alexbenjaminrosenthal3989 3 жыл бұрын

Tomoa is my pick for gold. I'd guess Adam will take silver. It's Tokyo, the boulders are gonna be pretty dynamic.

@joandomenech6708 3 жыл бұрын

@@alexbenjaminrosenthal3989 I think Ondra has the ability to win but under pressure (because of speed) is shown that he can massivily fail just as in hachioji

@wolfenstien13 3 жыл бұрын

I have a theory that a person whos been in their field long enough starts to think about what they've been trained. An outsider on the other hand will experiment with different ideas until they eventually become standardized or ponder upon something better.

@maximillionpegasus5654 3 жыл бұрын

If you press the A button after the third hold, you can perform " A boost jump " that allowed you to have a considerable speed boost.

@riskyridge1177 Жыл бұрын

This is the extra step up dyno jump that was added to assassins creed 2

@izumi1532 2 жыл бұрын

the backflip he did was like..0 gravity. im in love with his skill

@XseuguhX 3 жыл бұрын

2:31 I thought videogames' climbing was impossible.

@AlbertOkay 3 жыл бұрын

IT'S REAL!

@adamlugowski3423 3 жыл бұрын

The video omits the key beta break of the Fosbury Flop: it clears the bar with the center of gravity of the jumper below the bar. The scissor kick has the center of gravity above the bar, so it requires a higher jump for the same bar height.

@klara7247 3 жыл бұрын

Wow, that comment made me feel smart

@AlbertOkay 3 жыл бұрын

I would have loved to go in serious detail about the Fosbury flop as a former high jumper myself, but I didn't want to make the intro too long. There are great videos out there that explain the physics and history out there that explain it more in detail than I was able to.

@user-pb7mr1sh4u 13 күн бұрын

@@AlbertOkay tbh, it'd be better to remove it entirely vs omitting a key point.

@migukmystic3940 3 жыл бұрын

I’m not even a climber but I love your beta break videos. I love seeing the creative ways that climbers get over challenges

@AlbertOkay 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks! Appreciate the comment!

@richardbradley2530 3 жыл бұрын

I hadn't seen the gymnastics moves before. Something else.

@AlbertOkay 3 жыл бұрын

He's so agile!

@pulselx6655 3 жыл бұрын

Got your video recommended for me you’ve got a great channel here keep it up!

@elijahkeay3906 Жыл бұрын

I love how so many of the best beta breaks are so obvious in hindsight. Nobody thought of it until one person looks and goes you know what maybe that will work better for me, and then the route is changed forever

@ekong1729 3 жыл бұрын

Love the series. Missing climbing so much, but I don’t dare go back yet. 😭

@dario2691 3 жыл бұрын

Ha american

@RhodiumMoviesMC 3 жыл бұрын

There is nothing to be scared of

@xFCB4EVERx 3 жыл бұрын

Climbing since 3 months now here in germany

@noneofyourdamnbuisness3484 3 жыл бұрын

Where do u live? In Chicago I’ve been climbing since July 6th

@livix_1166 3 жыл бұрын

Go climb outside

@Potsu___ 3 жыл бұрын

You can see the amazing results of this new beta with the results from the past week's Salt Lake City competition. TWO new WRs in speed climbing.

3 жыл бұрын

Top quality video. The Beta Break series is amazing.

@AlbertOkay 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks so much for the comment!

@Etjsrr 3 жыл бұрын

great channel, loving this beta breaks 🤩 Hope you’ll become very popular soon!

@AlbertOkay 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks val! I already feel like I've gotten so popular it's amazing! Thanks so much for the support!

@Lyuze 3 жыл бұрын

The only two videos of yours i've ever seen are this vid and the other one you mentioned in the video, both of which were recommended to me on the front page. Good work, whatever youre doing is working!

@AlbertOkay 3 жыл бұрын

Heck yes and thank you so much for watching! I'll keep it up as much as I can!

@manons6984 3 жыл бұрын

Looove this serie, can't get enough. :)

@AlbertOkay 3 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

@jonnes__4657 3 жыл бұрын

🐱‍👤 Narasaki Tomoa is a legend in the climbing sport! .

@SteveHofsaess 3 жыл бұрын

It would be a challenge for most people to walk that fast,,, very , very impressive

@_aisan_3052 3 жыл бұрын

This was recommended to me and honestly....I only have 3 more to go in this series!

@ozijak 3 жыл бұрын

The mans unreal!! Absolutely love it! Can't wait for the Olympics haha xD

@StringKing380 3 жыл бұрын

WOW he is incredible! great video Albert Ok

@AlbertOkay 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks String King hope you rule the string well king!

@sgs261 3 жыл бұрын

Great series

@DickinHand 3 жыл бұрын

Great video! I love this series

@AlbertOkay 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

@andulasis6283 3 жыл бұрын

Awesome introduction of this issue :)

@AlbertOkay 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comment!

@smoothemoveexlax Ай бұрын

Tomoa is a beast. His kid with Akiyo Noguchi is gonna be a beast someday.

@stefanhaas-heye6722 3 жыл бұрын

great video, great wrap up comments

@AlbertOkay 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Stefan!

@sagebauer1077 2 жыл бұрын

Congrats on making it to NPR!

@corkforktork 3 жыл бұрын

So sick!!

@mollycollins2125 3 жыл бұрын

They didn't do that scissor jump standing from two feet. They most often did the straddle technique

@dervakommtvonhinten517 3 жыл бұрын

VERY well made video

@gregglockhart9551 2 жыл бұрын

Crushed it!

@uzumakiwo 3 жыл бұрын

Good analysis！

@al-b 3 жыл бұрын

awesome video

@AlbertOkay 3 жыл бұрын

Ayy thanks Albert- Albert

@al-b 3 жыл бұрын

You're welcome Albert! - Albert

@aidanang 3 жыл бұрын

1:10 well, I’m a minute in and am realizing that the title is in fact not clickbait - there’s no way this anime protagonist didn’t change the sport

@n3gi_ 3 жыл бұрын

I'm so scared of heights that my hands and feet are leaking sweat like tap water, on a cold winter night.

@eklor 2 жыл бұрын

Wouldn't it be nice to implement a new speed route? I mean ok, the whole purpose is of course to train over and over a movement pattern, but maybe it would be nice to create more than one route to let us see more beta break :)

@TP1R 2 жыл бұрын

The style of high jump you showed prior to the Fosbury flop is not how athletes were high jumping prior to the introduction of the flop. They were still running into the jump, not standing still as was shown.

@aminahrahman3045 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Albert ok for the new video.

@AlbertOkay 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comment!

@ridwanap6166 Жыл бұрын

narasaki is one my favourite

@siamesetwin2996 3 жыл бұрын

Cool video!

@AykutTurem 2 жыл бұрын

In my opinion the main advantage comes from skipping the left hand hold and the step-up dyno just adds a cherry on top, that's all. So, if we wanna talk about something revolutionary in speed climbing, "The Reza" is the first thing that should be started from!

@mrfancyshmancy 3 жыл бұрын

I've been looking for than clip of the weird dubble dyno(idk what you would call it) fir 2 years and i finally found it

@NinjaTwinsKids 2 жыл бұрын

Wow! Amazing

@beanzz4370 3 жыл бұрын

Its pretty much an adaptation of the Reza skip.

@AlbertOkay 3 жыл бұрын

Kind of!

@vengal6251 3 жыл бұрын

Yep

@pascaljutras178 3 жыл бұрын

with this new technic you save one foot placement, so maybe that 0.02 sec you need to get faster

@bayulistiantaraaji3296 Жыл бұрын

Thanks tomawa Jenius and good

@jonkrause6714 3 жыл бұрын

Great learning video as always. 🙏 Assimilation of pervious beta to now - curious to see how many more “beta breaks” may occur from now till Olympics?

@gdog5514 3 жыл бұрын

i wish these videos were longer

@AlbertOkay 3 жыл бұрын

I'll make longer episodes in the future! Had a busy week this week. :)

@sarahpreston4558 3 жыл бұрын

Would you consider doing a video about why Russian and Indonesian speed climbers are so fast?

@estiandeysel1713 3 жыл бұрын

What makes Leonardo Veddriq’s WR break unofficial?

@arenlykos2421 3 жыл бұрын

From what I understand, you have to get permission from Guinness to break a WR before the attempt. Then you have an official on hand to verify and you only get 3 tries. Magnus Mitdbø recently did a couple of videos where he "breaks" world records. Here's the first one: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kLKFlqaUktSwoKc.html They talk about some of the rules at 2:44 & 19:57 (but watch the whole thing, it's pretty cool!)

@Asdfghjkl-ls1or 3 жыл бұрын

@@arenlykos2421 that's only for guiness world records. Usain bolt didnt get permission from guiness for his world records

@panda4247 3 жыл бұрын

@@arenlykos2421 Guinness is shit, they became too commercial ale give out records for everything. That being said, I think the sport records are governed by different body, such as some Olympic committee, or that sport's federation.

@violetnhz 3 жыл бұрын

I think it's because the event wasn't officially recognised. I would have to refer to the original video, but I suspect the equipment might not be a hundred percent official, might be a small regional Indonesian event.

@AlbertOkay 3 жыл бұрын

Great question! So walls have to be officiated in order for the records to count as official. Differences in walls can be slight variations in angle, texture, hold positions, etc. Events such as world cups, olympics, and some other events have the walls confirmed official before the event and in this case the wall wasn't confirmed ahead of time so it didn't count. I have no doubt that a performance like Leonardo's could be repeated on an official wall, but we'll have to see in the future if that happens!

@JamesWongLife 3 жыл бұрын

Where can I find a compilation of tomaos trick climbing?

@AlbertOkay 3 жыл бұрын

Check out his instagram instagram.com/tomoa_narasaki/

@wickedwolf8438 3 жыл бұрын

this is the type of videos you watch at 3 am

@NightFore 3 жыл бұрын

When you discover a new speedrun trick in real life

@trucid2 3 жыл бұрын

Don't try out of bounds skips in real life.

@lukasvedalutnes4399 3 жыл бұрын

very nice

@AlbertOkay 3 жыл бұрын

thanks

@fluttersheesh8884 3 жыл бұрын

NIce Video again

@CamMackay96 2 жыл бұрын

Why was the 5.406 time not an official world record if it was done on the standard route?

@peterhawkins7130 3 жыл бұрын

My thoughts(I only free) the snap of the belay helps

@jadefae 3 жыл бұрын

This sounds EXACTLY like a video game speedrunning tech video

@aspuzling 3 жыл бұрын

How is this different from "the Reza"?

@jonathanw6884 3 жыл бұрын

Reza uses the far left foothold and puts up his right foot when going from the first speed hold. Tomoa entirely skips the far left foothold and puts his left foot on the first speed hold.

@aspuzling 3 жыл бұрын

@@jonathanw6884 but is the Tomoa skip faster than the Reza? Both seem similar to me and maybe it depends on personal preference?

@TheAznphoenix 3 жыл бұрын

@@aspuzling Theoretically the Tomoa Skip is slightly better in terms of physics as it it doesn't require the climber to shift their center of gravity even further to the left to hit the far left foothold. When it comes to a sprint, the more time you spend going straight the better as it is more efficient use of your energy.

@ninjajoker250 3 жыл бұрын

@@aspuzling it is pretty similar but the execution for the Reza is a bit strength base while the Tomoa skip is more to technical and flexibility by doing a dyno step on the second hold.

@AlbertOkay 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks to all the great commentators for explaining it for me!

@dtofficial9091 3 жыл бұрын

you know, when i'm 12 years old, i am try to jump from 8th point to 10th point (on indonesia we call it points btw). With an experience of 2 years of climbing, it's actually, 60% easy and 40% hard to dyno through the 8th point to 10th point if you have enough power and adrenalin, and also an experience. One more thing, wall climbing is the easiest way to being an world class athlete on my country, it's very easy. The competitors is so little compared to other sports.

@Meta-Drew 3 жыл бұрын

13 years of the same route with a single noteable improvement to the beta, how exciting

@Alorand 3 жыл бұрын

I wonder what the record would be if you could set up any holds you would like...?

@constantinosschinas4503 3 жыл бұрын

at least there are some channels with actual climbers making money from THEIR climbing. not commenting and click baiting.

@AlbertOkay 3 жыл бұрын

Okay sorry

@1998sini 2 жыл бұрын

And then he failed his own move at Olympics, which cost him the gold medal in the end :(

@HuslWusl Жыл бұрын

4:04 for a moment I thought you just mirrored the footage for some reason. It's crazy how in sync these people are

@existenceisafarce._.172 3 жыл бұрын

Narrator dude: *“Japan’s Tomoa Narasaki”* Me: *”He’s kinda hot 🤪”*

@trexbait895 3 жыл бұрын

Somebody come get her she dancing like a..

@rahmanhakim944 3 жыл бұрын

Bruh I didn't know my country country got some amazing ppl in speed climbing

@pwe...2626 3 жыл бұрын

GAS GAS GAS

@sghost128 3 жыл бұрын

Why is Veddriq's WR unofficial? EDIT: Never mind already answered in the comments. ^_^

@triggereddoge1847 3 жыл бұрын

He used 100% of his brain.

@Bohonk212 3 жыл бұрын

Check his wrists for spidey shoot stuff.

@SHOOPWOOOP 3 жыл бұрын

tomoa said YEET

@AlbertOkay 3 жыл бұрын

YEET

@CrouchingGrandpa 2 жыл бұрын

1:14 anyone else think "oh here comes the sponsor"?

@brimroth5238 3 жыл бұрын

On topic of collaboration between sports: I think it might be nice to have a bouldering, speed- and sport climbing triple event for the same points where we'd crown an overall champion for best indoor climber. Something like treat all three sports as the same number of points and the one with the greatest average on points takes the W. Most similar I guess to nordic combined cup as a sporting event

@kittenmimi5326 3 жыл бұрын

"GAS! GAS! GAS! GAS!" 😂😂😂😂

@thorstambaugh1520 3 жыл бұрын

Wait for the single point cheetah lunge.

@shadyshrimp4169 3 жыл бұрын

When i heard "Japan" i was like: OooOooh Some Anime Sh*t is about to go down!

@choongching 3 жыл бұрын

I actually thought it was Reza Alipour who improvised and created that infamous 'skip'? Reza has been executing that skip years before. Someone, please educate me. Thanks!

@DragoniteOW 3 жыл бұрын

Reza places his foot on a lower left foot hold to skip the left hand hold. Tomoa skips that foothold as well and instead performs the step-up move, saving a bit of time (the time it would take to place your foot on the left, since this new move is done within one fluid motion)

@BloodyBrilliant 3 жыл бұрын

Back then when Fosbury flopped out his Dlck 😲

@marka.6879 3 жыл бұрын

So the difference between the current world record holder's beta and the tomoa skip is the use of the second foothold, right?

@benwhiley9680 3 жыл бұрын

Specifically talking about what holds are used, yes, although it's the third foothold and not the second. The Reza skips the 4th hand. The Tomoa skips the 4th hand & the 3rd foot.

@QwertyUser1983 3 жыл бұрын

Iku wong opo cecak yo? Manjate ngebut tenan. ٩(◕‿◕｡)۶

@joejim9739 2 жыл бұрын

Its so fast, looks like the rope is pulling them up

@josephchen920 3 жыл бұрын

This may be obvious, but why was the new male WR unofficial? Looked like a legit comp

@AlbertOkay 3 жыл бұрын

That's a great question! So there are a few events a year - world cups and olympic games for example that the walls that the competitors are using are officially verified. The wall Leonardo climbed on might have met the standards for officials, but since it wasn't officiated for the event the record doesnt stand. Differences in wall angles, texture, hold positions,etc. Can all result as the wall being invalid

@josephchen920 3 жыл бұрын

@@AlbertOkay thanks for the explanation, and for the killer vids! Unfortunate for Leonardo haha

@AlbertOkay 3 жыл бұрын

@@josephchen920 Yeah haha, honestly though I think he can break the record on an official wall in the future. He's so fast all he needs is one good day!

@tubulartuber 3 жыл бұрын

what competition is at 3:30 ?

@AlbertOkay 3 жыл бұрын

I think it was a german youth event

@SkrappyQ 3 жыл бұрын

irl speedrun meta development

@tusharjamwal 3 жыл бұрын

I love it when people make extra efforts to pronounce other people's names properly.

@markellii3093 3 жыл бұрын

Speedrunners were doing this for years now

@masa-qi8cx 3 жыл бұрын

Wait till they see my double jump.

@TheCebulon 3 жыл бұрын

What the Heck is a „Beta“? Greetings from Munich, Tom.

@Max_Alive 3 жыл бұрын

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beta_(climbing)

@THExJMC 3 жыл бұрын

Beta is basically a way to climb the route. There is an intended beta made by the routesetter but different climbers can come up with their own betas that suit them better. In this case Tomoa’s beta is better since it allows you to skip holds and move more in a straight upwards path. Typically most speed climbers climb the route in the exact same way as it is a standardized route. Tomoa did it differently and thus he broke the beta, since his beta is better.