Perfect! Glad it was helpful!

Those are the kindest words and best feedback we could ever hope to receive! Hopefully one day our channel will grow to where KZfaq thinks we deserve a raise too ;-) but I'm not complaining. It never hurts if you shoot an email to Pontoon Stuff letting them know my channel has steered you towards purchases from them!!!

Perfect!! That is one of the biggest reasons as to why we have the channel. I don't dig in deep to outboard repairs, but I try to show the maintenance and installation work that folks can do at home who are willing to take on the task. Thanks for watching and sharing that!

Wonderful!! I’ve installed several switches now from different manufacturers. It seems like the blue seas are sturdier quality when tightening wire lugs on and installing into the boat. I’ll be continuing to use them!

Great!! Thanks for watching!

Smart move, and glad this was helpful!

Awesome! We always love it when our videos help out boaters outside of the pontoon area. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching! Always trying to balance talking too much while providing the best information possible.

Glad you found it helpful!! Thanks for watching

Thanks for watching. Hope it gives you to confidence to tackle the install yourself!

Glad I could help!

Thanks!!

I do need to do more investigating into the Blue Seas add a battery setup. It's a higher end way to go, but as you said, it can take some of the human error out...however that then lends to more room for failure when leaving it up to an automatic/automated technology. Yes, that white wire goes directly to the cranking battery. I have now installed several and the supporting dealer suggests going straight to the battery, not the switch. Thanks for watching, and best of luck on your project!!!

Good!! Glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching!

Thanks! And thanks for watching. I always accept beers!!! www.buymeacoffee.com/tomstoons It will go to beer, not coffee, I promise!

Thank you!!

Thanks! Hope it was helpful!

thanks for watching!! Hoping it'll help some folks out there wanting to upgrade their battery setup.

Happy to help!

Thanks for watching!!

Thanks for watching! Glad it was helpful!

Absolutely, yes! This was the simplest way and the way I was taught. I have another video with a similar switch using the ground buss bar.

I should have explained deeper that the option to go 1+2 to get home is still going to require a trickle charge once back at the dock....it would take hours and hours running full speed to charge a battery from dead! In my years of boating and rigging my own electrical I haven't had a dead battery pull the power from a fully charged battery down to any point that caused an issue. It seems to me that as long as the motor is running and pushing charge into the system it's covering more than enough to prevent the full battery from draining to a detrimental point.

Thanks!! Hopefully this helps if you come across any snags!

@@tomspontoons and I subbed, weird I been watching your videos for a month and never noticed I wasn’t subbed, they just show on my timeline 😂

@@osmosisreacts thanks!!!

It’s so funny you say that because every time I do it I am very particular of how I set it down. I made that mistake once in my youth and nearly needed a change of shorts from the scare. Would be much wiser as you said to just never do it…thanks for looking out for me!

I congratulate you on being able to see the most important issue. A small mistake can have fatal consequences.

Happy to help!

The first thing I'd check is your grounds for your new accessories you just added. Where are they grounded in relation to the switch or fuse panel? That's a common question...with this switch you do not get to designate which battery is doing the work for specific accessories. So you can't pick which battery is running specific accessories unless you wire a power and ground directly to that battery...but then you lose the whole benefit of being able to switch power OFF to accessories. Selecting battery 1 OR battery 2 will isolate that battery to power any accessory that you wish to use, but that's the only option to designate one battery to power something specific. Hope this makes sense.

I'll try to hit all of your questions here. Let me know if this helps! - That little box on the wire is part of Suzuki's extra single little power wire. On a traditional pontoon or boat setup you might see a 20 amp resettable fuse for the accessory harness that runs to the dash and powers the switch panel and accessories. Outboards have their own fuse under the hood, so I would not recommend wiring in an additional one. - The only way to really know if you're getting charge from your motor is to have a voltage gauge or a voltage tester to see if the volts go up while the engine is running. Most outboards with electric start have an alternator system to charge batteries. - Your motor has a power and ground wire that come from the motor. Power supplied to the motor through those cables makes its way to the key switch through the ignition harness that's plugged in at the motor and run up to the helm. You shouldn't need to, nor would I recommend, that you make your own ignition harness. They are readily available and specific to each motor brand. They're typically plug and play and simple to install at the motor.

Thanks! and thank you for watching

I'm not sure that you're able to link in the 24v system to this type of switch. You'd need to do some deeper research into a switch or battery system that would allow that. Two batteries in 12v parallel can be worked in no problem, but I don't know about 24v

Thanks for subscribing and for watching!! Hopefully we’ve got lots more helpful and fun stuff for you on our channel!

That’s the Pontoon Stuff led stern light. You can go lower, but the rule is that it has to be visible 360 degrees around.

True! It seems that they have a few different versions of similar four position switches

I welded this box up. You could have a local welder fabricate one for you no problem. Thanks for watching!

Great question, and one we’ve been asked several times before. Hook your trickle charger(s) straight to the battery(s). You can put them straight to the positive and negative posts to charge when off the water, avoiding the switch altogether when it comes to charging systems.

Thanks...appreciate the help!

I haven’t played around with lithium batteries yet. Most pontoon setups don’t need lithium because there’s plenty of space for regular deep cycle batteries and the weight isn’t an issue. Glad you got that sorted out!

@@tomspontoons yeah what i was under the assumption that when u turn on 1&2 its both batterys on and there seperated but there not when u do that they are in parallel

@@nathanw5747 exactly!!

Thanks for watching! This is a much simpler setup with the batteries just being put into parallel when on position 2 or "both". I haven't done much with ACR or VSR systems, although I've heard a lot of good things about them and people have been happy. I'm old school and like to know I'm not adding in anything that could potentially fail in my electrical system.

Thanks for your reply, very helpful :). keep it up, thanks again 👍 😊

As far as I know they are working on that…but designing to prototypes to production is a lengthy process. You could absolutely make something work with the help of an upholsterer. Using Pontoon Stuff’s vinyl you could have it match perfectly too. Maybe if we build another boat down the road (if Pontoon Stuff hasn’t released it yet) I’ll build one from scratch for everyone to see the process!!

@@tomspontoons Now that would be impressive. PS has some great stuff but a semi custom would be really cool.

@@piper8463 we will see what happens I guess!!

It can be anywhere, but usually is found by the batteries because the longer the run to the switch and then accessories the more power loss can occur…plus that 4 gauge wire isn’t cheap!!! Ideally, you wouldn’t want your engine battery cables much longer than what they come with stock because so much draw is happening to start the motor.

Do you mean your engine negative to the bus bar? Essentially, everything can run to your bus bar as long as that negative makes it back to a battery negative post AND you jump a negative across connecting both battery negatives. I don't do bus bars often because I like to avoid those additional points of contact when possible, especially on larger HP motors where every bit of power is needed to start them.

@@tomspontoons great. Thank you for taking time to reply.

@@noelortega6028 happy to help!

Correct…just don’t mix types of batteries. Lead acid of different sizes. AGM if different sizes. Lithium of different sizes. But never mixing those types. I am old school and use all Deka brand lead acid batteries. Usually 24M7 for the starting battery and a 27 class deep cycle for the house battery.

I would not run a trolling motor system on this switch. I would just run a trickle or solar charger for the 24v system. I’m not sure if it can or can’t be done, but I personally wouldn’t incorporate it into this sort of switch or battery system.

That’s why folks bring me their boats….it’s a lot of work and not for those afraid of some demanding physical labor! Hope my videos will guide you along your way and make it a little easier at least.

I'm not familiar with that battery in particular. As far as I know these switches are fine to use with lithium batteries, but you can NOT use different types of batteries together on it (like lithium with lead acid).

You'll want a charge controller going to the LiFePO4. A bonus with that is the ability to charge with solar as well as the alternator.

@@klassica Sounds like I need to research that option!

I would definitely look to replace that switch. There could very well be something broken inside that’s catching. All the switches I’ve installed and used continue to turn easily!!!

That’s a serious amount of batteries!! Typically you won’t see the trolling motor batteries connected to a switch related to the motor simply because it would take too much for the motor to keep them charged. It’s just too much for the motor to even try to help with. I would just run your 36 volt system on a plug in 3 bank charger by itself. Then a cranking batter and a deep cycle on a switch in the rear. The deep cycle can power all of your accessories including your fish finder. Those items are very low draw and to protect your cranking batter you can turn the switch to the deep cycle only if your main motor isn’t running. That’s how I’d set it up!!

Definitely have a set up going on. Kind of piggybacking off of what Tom said above, your ultimate goal is to keep everything as simplistic as possible. One critical thing you need to look at with all these batteries is that you’re using the same type, size etc. for your batteries that are hooked up at 36 Volts, otherwise, you risk damaging your batteries if one is stronger than the other two, they will draw it down and shorten its lifespan. Like Tom and I had talked about a top with your system. I would honestly do it very simple just like this. You split your whole electrical system into 3 parts, each part will have its own dedicated one way on/off switch. This way when the boat is parked/docked you can turn all three off and know that there is no electrical draw on any of the batteries. Battery 1: Battery - switch - motor/starting sys Battery 2: Battery - switch - accessories Battery 3: 3x Batteries 36V - switch - trolling motor Now I would install two battery isolators from your primary battery/charging source. Isolator 1: to your accessory battery Isolator 2: to your 36V trolling motor system What’s the isolators will do is allow your primary charging system, which feeds battery one to charge your other batteries when your boat is running, and the isolator detects the correct voltage/amperage. As long as you have all three switches in the on position while you’re driving the boat, it will be charging all your batteries without you having to do a thing or turning a switch, etc. throwing out a hypothetical scenario. You’re on the water and using your trolling motor all day as well as your plotter and your trolling motor batteries stop working because they’re dead. That is where your isolator comes in to play because it does just that and isolates all three battery banks from each other, so you can walk over and start your boat because your starting battery will be at 100% power because it’s isolated. Once boats started it’ll start charging up ALL of your batteries and you’re good to go. With the switches depending on how you hook everything up or what kind of switch you use, you could be potentially hooking all the batteries together at one time with the wrong kind of switch, therefore draining all of your batteries, including your starter battery that’s where the isolator again comes in to play and doesn’t allow that to happen. I know that was a lot to throw out there. I tried to make it as simple yet understandable as possible. Hope it helps, Tom I hope I’m not stepping on your toes lol also used talk to text so I hope all this came out, correct lol Good luck buddy. Let us know how it goes.

HAHA! I don't think anyone can say that without getting Geico upset!

I try to match or exceed the gauge size of the motor battery cables. Typically I run 2 gauge or 4 gauge from each battery to the switch, and the same for my ground jumper wire. Hope this helps!

I haven't installed an ACR setup yet, and because I'm pretty old school I'm not sure that I ever will unless a customer requests it. On the Blue Seas website it says "The ACR should disconnect/connect..." which scares me because it SHOULD. It has its benefits, no doubt, but there are delays in charging and disconnecting...and I like having the control of a simple switch in my hands instead of relying on an automatic system. Again, definitely benefits of both options and comes down to personal preferance.

I'm not familiar with that type of switch, sorry!

These switches don't decide which item receives power. They only decide which battery the items connected to the switch are being powered by. It's a common misunderstanding. This switch allows you to use one battery for its specific purpose, or both batteries to help charge both when the engine is running. Everything connected to the common/shared post on the switch will receive power when one or both of the batteries are selected. If you want to shut off power to your dash while the 4 position switch is on you'd want an additional master on/off switch in line to those items.

I haven’t run into one of these modern style switches going bad yet. Yes, the common post should be hot when either battery is selected.

Two or four stroke? I’m a huge fan of Deka Marine batteries. Great reliability and longevity for a good price. I’d use a 27 class deep cycle for the starting and a 31 class deep cycle for the house battery…that’s the exact setup I did on my tritoon with a 200 Suzuki four stroke, with the 4 position battery switch and all.

@@tomspontoons Four Stroke. Since I have you, I'm having trouble finding new gauges as well. Any advice on brand, site, ect?

@@user-wl8gm5uw4s I usually install the Faria Chesapeake gauges. Otherwise, give Vans Sport Center a call. They’ll ship you Yamaha brand gauges and components. They’re a Yamaha dealer. I get tons of parts from them. 616-364-0666 ask for Brad in Parts!

You've got great questions there!!! It's pretty much in the fine print, which is why I make it a huge point to not touch while the motor is running, or if you must change it, be sure to be very careful which way you're turning it!! It would also make sense to make the OFF position farther away from the others, like way at the bottom. They are ignition protected usually which will prevent a fire or spark from happening, but that power has to go somewhere and usually ends up feeding back to the motor and frying something...blown main fuse at best!

You could BUT if the switch gets moved while the motor is running to Off or position 2 it would be potentially catastrophic for the motor. For that setup we would run a single battery without any worries, especially if upgrading to a larger 27 or 31 class dual purpose battery (starting + deep cycle). If you're running the motor most of the time while using those accessories you'd have no issues at all as the motor likely kicks out enough charging to more than cover the amps pulled by all the accessories combined. It's when adding a more sophisticated stereo with an amp or multiple high draw graphs that I would get nervous running just one battery.

All I really want to do is stop parasitic drain while sitting for a long time. But Wow, thanks for answering so quick!@@tomspontoons

@@frankwolf389happy to help. Go with a simple On/Off switch then. It’ll cut any draw at the switch preventing draw from the motor or accessories. I need to do a video on the simple on/off switch soon.

I wire the solar panel(s) or controller(s) directly to the battery(s). Nothing with the solar panels goes into the switch. Hope that makes sense!

This is seadoo btw

@@mikewhitlock1849 I've never encountered that before! I've seen boats with interference when the stereo and engine are both on, but that's the closest thing. I would guess that there's power leaking or interfering to/with the speaker or stereo. Is it just one speaker? I'd start by trying to figure out if it's coming from the stereo or through the speaker wire itself somewhere between the head unit and speaker. From there you can trouble shoot on the solution. Worst case, I'd take it back to the dealer and have them sort it out if it's a new/newer boat and didn't do that whine before they worked on it last.

Definitely interference, run a filter or move the speaker wires away from power cables

Also you say when I am trolling and the big motor is off I should switch to 2 or leave switch on 1+2? Would there be any instances to have switch on batt 1.

@@zop133 Sounds like you’ve got it figured out. Your ground buss bar will have a heavier ground wire run straight to the battery negative post. Either one will work as you’ll have a jumper connecting the two battery grounds. You’ll have a positive from the common or shared power post that runs to your fuse block. Each positive running out from the fuse will go to a switch. It’s usually ground to the very top post of the switch, then power to the upper post lower down, then the accessory itself will have the power wire run on the very bottom post. Not every switch is the same though, so if you’re starting from scratch you may need to test some switches to make sure you understand how they work. I’ve got some videos where I break down switch panels from Amazon. Is your trolling motor all electric? Or are you trolling with a gas kicker motor? If your kicker motor has an alternator and has charging capabilities then I’d leave it on 1+2. Otherwise I’d switch it to your deep cycle (aka house) battery to run your electronics while you fish. Then switch back to 1+2 before firing your main engine back up to run back to the dock. Let me know if this all makes sense!!

@Toms Toons Pontoon Refurbishing. I am running a 36v trolling motor that is isolated from the starting and house batteries.

@Toms Toons Pontoon Refurbishing another question. Should the main power cable to the boat that has the bilge pump and accessories be connected directly to the house battery so they always have power to them .

@@zop133 then yes, I would run your electronics off of the house battery when you’re trolling…it’s just like using the house battery only for running a stereo and lights when beached for party style boats.

I always reference a bass boat for questions involving batteries, switches, etc. being near fuel tanks. Bass boats have always PACKED electrical and fuel systems close together under the back deck. As long as you're vented properly and things are done correctly for wiring and fuel system there shouldn't be a problem. I've worked on many pontoons with a fuel cell and battery in the same compartment in the stern.

Hard to say without seeing how you have it wired. If it's wired exactly as this one is then I'd guess you have a bad switch. Be careful of cheap Amazon switches, this isn't the place to save a few bucks. Battery one (starting battery) positive wire goes to post 1, Battery two (house or deep cycle) positive wire goes to post 2, all motor and accessory positive wires stack on the common or shared post. Grounds of both batteries are connected by a jumper wire or a ground buss bar and grounds for motor and accessories are connected to ground(s) on batteries or ground buss bar.

Thanks , I am using the one you demonstrated on the utube. Does the positive engine wire go to common post? Will everything still come on if on setting one? Thanks for your time Tom. It was a good KZfaq. I just wasn’t real familiar with these switches.

Yes, the positive engine wire hooks to the common. All the things needing positive power need to have their positive wire on the common post. This switch DOES NOT select which items are given power. Instead it selects which battery is supplying power to everything connected to the common post. Super common misconception!! How to Use a 4 Position Battery Switch kzfaq.info/get/bejne/lc6bhrGHlaqanoU.html

That’s a step outside of my comfort zone and expertise to be honest. My initial thought was “that seems like a Blue Sea Systems question”…I would reach out to Blue Seas directly with what you’re looking to do to see what they have to say.

Thanks, will do.

@@jeffreykropp7664sorry I couldn’t be more help!

Every positive wire gets connected to the common or shared post (accessories and motor) and will be powered no matter which position the switch is in other than off. By selecting 1, 2, or 1+2 you're just choosing which battery (or both in parallel) is supplying the power to those items connected to the shared post. That make sense?

@@tomspontoons TY so much

@@mozee01 happy to help!

Every switch is different, so check the specs on yours!! I just did a quick Google search and it looks like this is rated to 350 amps. Others are in the 250 amp range.

I do not YET! It’s on my list of videos to make…lots of electrical videos coming in the near future I hope!

I attach them to the switch panel so a switch can power it on, which is powered from the battery switch.

I don’t see why not, but I would check with the outboard manufacturer and the switch manufacturer.

Yes, 4 gauge, and I wouldn't go any lighter to be honest (unless you're running a small outboard motor). Any time we add interruptions to electrical there's the chance for some flow of power being lost so by going heavy duty it reduces the chance of that. The biggest reason is that we're running the motor's battery cables to the switch which are for a large hp EFI four stroke. Those battery cables are typically 4 gauge to start, so I definitely don't want to come off the battery with anything smaller gauge to the switch. If running an amplifier for your stereo it's the same scenario. They usually call for 4 gauge wire from the power source to the amp so we want to match that or go bigger from the battery to the switch. Remember, you're always better off being higher gauge closer to the battery and going down in gauge as you near the accessory. In the end, it's another one of those topics where I learned it that way years ago from outboard mechanics I worked with and so I continue to do it on my own now.

@@tomspontoons Nice, comprehensive answer. Thanks for taking the time. You are much appreciated! Keep up the education, some of us need a handholding... Until we don't.

@@BuenoToob I'm here to hold hands, that's the whole point of our channel!!.....and to have some fun and show what we do on a day to day basis!

That’s a great question. I’ve never seen an isolator on a battery system on a factory boat. I’m not sure that it’s completely necessary on a typical pontoon boat just running two batteries. On a more complex setup or a boat with multiple battery banks and high draw items I could see it being more necessary. Thanks for asking!!

@@tomspontoons the reason I ask is because with an isolator you’re able to put your starter battery where it would be which is hooked up to the starting system, etc. and the isolator is designed to automatically charge your second battery as long as the voltage and amperage it sees is correct. I use them all the time on side by side and actually installing one on my pontoon boat today to get ready for the 4th. That way you’re not trying to manually turn a switch off & on and in the event that your secondary battery goes dead, you can still turn the key and start the boat, because no power is being pulled from your primary battery as soon as the boat starts , it will automatically start charging up your secondary battery and this was a perfect failsafe when Mud Riding because often times you would be stopping and talking to people or listening to music and your bike will be shut off so in the event that your music turned off, which meant you drained your secondary battery, you could still walk over and start your bike with ease since you weren’t pulling off your primary battery, Just a thought. Pretty much the same difference without having to turn a switch, Long story long lol. Nice install though, and very informative!

@@Wrensspeedshop I totally understand that! It’s a fail safe IF someone forgets to turn the switch. Makes complete sense to me, just nothing I’ve heard of on a boat in my years. I’m sure they use them on big battery bank setups and such for the reasons you mentioned. Thanks for the information, I really appreciate the comments!

​@@Wrensspeedshop do you have a master switch too ,? To kill all the power ?

@@21MRMISCHIEFI have two master kill switches. One specifically powers the boat motor as well as gauges. The second switch is what powers all accessory lighting, stereo, etc

Got your email as well and responded!

@@tomspontoons ok great. thank you for the tips! I will try that and see what happens. Just doing some RE-configuring to maximize performance of setup.

Need to look at the wattage/amperage each device would use that way you can determine how you want to put your batteries in a bank. Making the assumption all your batteries are the same or that you have one starting battery and four standard deep cycle, batteries, using your dual bank charger you can put that on your “starter”battery, then the 2nd bank on your other four batteries. Making sure they’re wired in parallel (all the positives together, and all of the negatives together) that will keep you at 12 Volts and increase your amp hour rating substantially! Is your trolling motor 12/24 V?

@@Wrensspeedshop Are you a bass boat guy? Power boat with big battery systems? You seem very knowledgeable on this stuff. Thanks for commenting and giving some input!!

@@tomspontoons I’m a little bit of an everything guy lol. I’ve been working with Car Audio for over 20 years and aftermarket stereo systems on peoples side by sides like Can-Am Maverick’s and Polaris RZRs over the years. Living in east Texas (the south lol) we do a lots of mud riding and going through streams, ponds, you name it, where sometimes the depth can be upwards of four or 5 feet of water, and or mud and some situation’s. You learn real fast to make sure that everything is watertight and use high-quality heat shrink to avoid moisture getting to your tables and oxidizing them. Also, using various types of batteries, do power the systems since the factory batteries are about the size of one that goes on a lawnmower lol. Back to your original question, I actually have a 25’ pontoon boat. I’ve been working the last few days like crazy trying to get her ready for the lake for the 4th of July. I did install one of those one way on/off switch’s for my primary starting battery, and then my secondary will also have a master on/off switch in place that will be used when the boat as parked so that neither battery has a draw on them. When she’s in the water though, both switches are on and I let the isolator do what it does. It’s a perfect failsafe sense time flies when you’re on the water and in the event that you’re not paying attention to the battery level and the stereo shuts off, that’s a peace of mind knowing that your primary battery is 100% charged and will start the boat, just like normal and will immediately start charging the second battery through the isolator. Keep up the good work on the videos, I can tell they help a lot of people out. I may need to do a quick video on my setup once it’s done and cleaned up.

I always stick with a marine starting or dual purpose for that…biggest thing is making sure you’re supplying enough cranking amps for your motor. Check the owners manual for that info!

Ok thanks!

Happy to help!

Thanks for the kind words! You've got a great question...that's why it's so important to change the switch to Battery 2 (house battery) when you turn the motor off and continuing using your electrical accessories. When it's time to head home, switch back to 1+2 and you will get the full power of your starting battery to start even if your house battery is dead. You will get SOME charging pushed back into your house battery, but unless you have an hour ride back and you're running at mid to high RPMs, you'll still likely need to put a charge on your house battery when you get back if you want another full day anchored out running off your house battery. If you only park once in a while on battery position 2, and mostly cruise on 1+2 setting, then yes, eventually that house battery would get charged back up, but it may take several outings! Hope that makes sense.

Four position switch? Yes, you’d just run the starting battery to post 1 and never change the setting other than 1 and Off. It leaves the option to run an additional battery in the future

I have not idea why they'd ever recommend that?! The marine mechanics I've worked with and am friends with are the ones who taught me how to install and run them. You could put a simple volt meter on one battery positive and negative post at a time while the motor is running and not running to test voltage. You should see a bump in both batteries when running, even at idle. I've heard people argue that if one battery is totally dead, that starting on 1+2 will draw down the good battery and not allow the motor to start. Again, asking the experts in the field, I've been told that the 12V in parallel will still go to the motor to start even if on 1+2 and that the dead battery will not hurt the whole system. The only reason there's a 1+2 position is for charging capabilities. I've run them on my boats for years that way, always running on 1+2 unless beached or anchored, and batteries have held up great!

@@tomspontoons thank you for the response. Everything in your video makes absolute sense. And it’s the way I always thought it should be. I don’t know enough to know how to test the batteries with what you’re describing, but I’m sure I can teach myself. I did more research after watching your video and I did find one explanation that stated that the alternator simply isn’t “strong enough” to charge both batteries at the same time, so they need to be placed on battery one, to charge battery, one, and battery two, to charge battery two. Which is ridiculous because if you forget to keep switching them when you’re out on the boat, then one of them will eventually drain. Then I always thought what’s the point of having an option of 1+2 if it only charges one at a time? I have a mercury 250. I would think the alternator is big enough to charge both simultaneously? When I was putting the batteries back in the boat after winter, I put one battery in fully charged and had absolutely no power. For whatever reason the boat is wired from the factory that I have to have both batteries in to get power to anything. And then I realized if I had, for example, battery two in the boat, but hooked up the cables from battery one to the terminals on battery two, then I could start the boat with only one battery. Hope that makes sense? But I’ll get to the bottom of it because I want both my batteries to charge on all and perhaps they do and the mechanic is wrong telling me this when I bought the boat? But he told me under no circumstance leave it on battery 1+2. Because it will not charge the batteries. Which makes absolutely no sense to me. I appreciate the help. It was bothering me, which is why I sought out your video. it just doesn’t make sense what they are telling me.

@@tomspontoons actually, I do know what you’re saying, I have a buddy with a voltmeter who is a retired mechanic, I’ll have him check it out next week. Because I did find another video with a gentleman stating how surprised he was that both of his batteries were charging on 1+2 when he tested it with a volt meter.

@@MaynarddGlad the volt meter thing made sense!! I just have a cheap Minnkota meter I’ve had for a decade, but it works and helps in situations like you’re in. In 1+2 you’re simply putting the two batteries in parallel, there’s nothing more complicated about it. In the very worst case of paralleled batteries you’d have to top one battery off before the other could start charging. But with the switch you don’t have a “top” and a “bottom” battery, so both positives are receiving charge from the common/shared post equally. A 250 hp, even at idle, has enough juice to charge both, and at higher RPMs will push tons of juice. You may have had the issue of things not working with one battery missing if all the accessories and motor were grounded to/through the other battery (or a negative buss bar connected there). So with one missing you didn’t have the grounds for those items in the circuit to create power. Hope that makes sense. Please be sure to report back on what you find. I’m confident that you’ll see voltage increase on both batteries simultaneously.

@@tomspontoons Will do, and thank you !

Just adding here of what I need to understand is the order everything needs to go, and if I need 2 batteries, are they hooked together? Are they used separately? What I’m gathering is I need a starting battery and a deep cycle battery, but in this video you’re using them together (1+2) to start the motor and keep running? You only switch to the deep cycle only if you have the motor off and you need power to the electronics?

And one last thing is the deep cycle I have now starts my motor…. So I can I only have 1 or do I need to have a starting?

@@lejendmerchant6472 You can definitely run one battery if you don't plan to park and use electronics. The battery switch on 1+2 runs the two batteries in parallel which keeps everything 12v, but will allow the system to give enough juice to start the motor if one battery is dead. You can keep the battery you have as a starting battery as long as it meets the cranking amps your motor needs. I run two deep cycles on my own boat, one having the ability to crank the outboard too. The switch just allows one to isolate batteries AND charge both when it's set to 1+2. Let me know if this helps or if you have more questions!

Got it. So I think to be safe- and because I’m building one thing at a time and will eventually do all the wiring. So I can do 1 deep cycle and 1 starter battery- hooked up as you did in this video. So my questions are : 1) let’s say DC is #1 and starter is #2, when I go to drive the boat do I put it on #2 only, or always 1+2? 2) when I am stopped in the water and motor is not running, but I am running electrical, it should be on Deep cycle only? 3) do I ever need to charge the batteries? I see some things online about people saying they have to plug their batteries in after each ride? If the batteries are setup as in your video, do I need to charge them using something like a trickle charger? ​@@tomspontoons

@@lejendmerchant6472 I always run my switch on 1+2 for starting the engine and using electrical accessories when the engine is running. If I anchor or beach and turn the engine off I switch it to my deep cycle if I plan to continue running the stereo and other electrical items. Personally, I haven't ever beached long enough to drain my deep cycle to where it needs to be plugged in to charged, but yes, if you drain it down you'd likely need to put a solar charger or trickle charger on it between trips because your outboard alone would take an incredibly long time to fully recharge the deep cycle. So for your questions: 1) Always start and drive the boat on 1+2. 2) Correct, after the motor is turned off, turn the battery selector to your deep cycle option. When you're ready to start the motor again, turn it back to 1+2 so that you get the power from your starting battery too, AND so that you can push charge to both batteries (hopefully recovering some of the draw your deep cycle took while parked). 3) Possibly. If you have an amplifier and high power draw stereo system or you're running your electrical accessories for an extended period of time with a short time running the motor between, then you might need to plug in a charger or put a solar charger on when the boat is parked at the dock or on the trailer. I've never needed to do so when running that 4 position switch with the way my boat is set up (no amp, basic stereo with 4 speakers).

I don’t have one complete video, more so little parts broken down. One of these days I’ll do a whole boat electrical breakdown!

I haven’t seen breakers between the battery and switch before. Each item would normally have a breaker between the switch and item to protect the system and individual item. I would go with 0 or 2 gauge to make that long of a run. It can’t hurt to have too heavy gauge to keep the flow from being restricted. I use 4 gauge for the short runs, just up to 2’ - 4’ usually. I would always prefer to run items direct to the switch, but if that’s your only option then running another jumper will have to work. Again, err on the heavier gauge side of things!!

Sorry, this boat is long gone. All the grounds for everything going on the switch go to the ground of the battery (or a ground buss block). All the positive wires for accessories go to the common/shared post.

If you have an auto-bilge then you need to run that auto positive wire directly to one of the battery's positive posts. That way regardless of the switch position you will always have power to the float switch in the auto-bilge (or float switch that powers a standard bilge) so that it can kick on if there's ever enough water in the bilge to activate the float switch. Hope this makes sense!

​​@@tomspontoonsSo I went ahead and installed a 24 size for starting and a 27 size for the house. My next question is, if I want to put a charger on to make sure they're nice and charged, is there any special I have to do? Do I disconnect them and charge one at a time?

@@ItsLRivera That's a common setup I use. Hook charger leads directly to each battery individually as if there was no switch...a positive and negative from the charger to the 24 class, and another set of pos/neg to the 27 class. The switch should be in the OFF position when charging if you can remember to do so. In the OFF position they are completely disconnected from one another besides the shared ground which won't be an issue. I've use a NOCO Genius dual bank on a number of boats that are set up just like yours. Just plug in an extension cord to the charger and top the batteries off.

@@tomspontoons Awsome! Thanks for your help and quick reply. Keep up the great videos.

@@ItsLRivera Happy to help! Thanks for watching!

You can't determine which battery the accessories are pulling from specifically when using "both" or "1+2" as it basically combines the two batteries (in parallel) into one big 12v battery. When the dial is turned to either battery 1 OR battery 2 the switch will pull power from only that battery and supply it to ALL of the accessories connected to the shared/common post. When the switch is turned to 1+2 it will essentially put the two batteries in parallel giving you power supplied from both batteries at the same time (still 12v in that scenario). The beauty of 1+2 is that it'll push charge through both batteries when you're cruising which can help keep both batteries topped off. If you always go park and drain the house battery you'd still likely need to put a charger on that battery as the motor would not be able to completely charge it from just running for a short time, but having the starting battery there on 1+2 will let you start the battery even if the house battery is dead or close to dead. That make more sense?

@@tomspontoons Yep, that is what I kind of was assuming. Basically 1+2 is just doubling(or about doubling) the single battery capacity assuming they are both the same battery.

@@brianlb78 Correct. The main reason for 1+2 while engine is running is to push charge to both. I like running a smaller dual purpose or deep cycle for starting battery, then a 31 class big heavy duty deep cycle for the house battery. Hasn't let me down yet!

@@tomspontoons so if battery 1 is dead will you put the switch on 2 or 1+2 to start it up? Can you start the motor on 1+2 even if one of the batteries is dead? or do you have to start it on 2 then switch it to 1+2 to get it to charge both batteries? Hope what I am asking makes sense. Thanks for the video I am looking into installing a battery switch since I had to bypass my master power switch on my dash.

@@griffinbanta Yes, it should still start just fine on 1+2 if one of the batteries is dead, but you could also switch straight to 2 and start. If you do that, just make sure your switch can be changed of position while the motor is running!!! It’s asking for trouble if you accidentally turn the switch off as it can fry electrical on the motor!!!

Correct. Everything is on the common or shared post. We can't control what's hooked to that, but we can control which battery is supplying power. I've personally had a nearly dead house battery (#2) and was able to flip the switch over to #1 and start my motor, even with all the accessories still on. It did its job for me in that case!

I was thinking the same thing power is still going to everything know matter what battery you use the switch is only switching from one battery to the next 2out ours will make the difference

Not sure what you're asking there?

@@tomspontoons I FIXED IT MY SCREWS WAS SPINNING WHEN I TRIED TO TIGHT THEM DOWN . SHOULD MY WIRE FROM THE MOTOR WHEN KEY IS ON BE HOT , TRYING TO SEE I HAVE TWO WIRES COMMMING FROM THE MOTOR .CONFUSED ONE SHOULD BE HOT I THAUGHT

@@TERRYSMITH-vu6er You should have a positive and a negative coming from the motor. Positive should hook to the common post so that it receives power from the batteries when the switch is on. The negative from the motor should hook to one of the batteries grounds or a ground buss bar. You should only have power to the motor when a battery is selected or both are selected. That's when power will push to the common post to power the accessories and engine connected to the common or shared post.

Shouldn’t hurt if the switch is on or off. Same as charging a battery with accessories hooked up directly. As long as the accessories are turned off there should be no issues at all.

🙋🏻‍♂️

This system is very common. I was taught to run this system this way from a marine mechanic who’s been in the business 20 years and has expertise in electrical systems. I have to trust him on this one! Think of it like running the batteries in parallel when the switch is on 1+2. Common practice even from boat manufacturers.

I have run both my boats on 1+2 for years and haven’t caught anything on fireb

Fire from starting / running with both batteries connected 😂 😂 the hell you say! I guess the million vehicles on the road with two battery setups are burning up ??!! Sit down and stop spreading fake news!

Can i run 2 deepcycle batteries? No regular battery?​@tomspontoons