Right?!

Thanks. That’s a good point! I just looked it up on Faber’s website & sure enough, they say that they are just “starter” notches. They say the wound string notches may need widening.

​Small update: I actually bought a TonePros roller bridge myself in the meantime. Had the buzzing issue as well. In my case the solution was really simple, though. I use a Towner down tension bar with my Bigsby which allows me to adjust the break angle. Increasing the break angle a bit fixed the buzzing issue (and tuning stability is at least as good as before). The Vibramate you are using seems to give you a shallower break angle - which is great for normal Tune-O-Matics, but maybe not so much for roller bridges? I kinda got the feeling that it works and sounds better with more downward pressure on the rollers. Maybe something worth looking into.

@@mortb6584 glad you were able to fix yours. It’s funny, one of the benefits of the Vibramate is supposed to be a more shallow break angle. Who knows. 🤷🏻‍♂️ It’s just one of the many factors. All the best.

Glad to help…I guess. 😂 And thanks for the subscribe!

Interesting. Thanks for sharing. I never realized that about the Schaller Bridge. So, don’t the rollers move side to side whenever they roll??

@@NathanSink The strings don’t move it that much and actually stay where set.

@@NathanSink I spent a buttload of money on a Schaller roller bridge, and, they are an absolute disgrace. The screws that adjust the intonation back and forward are made of copper, or some material that is as soft as butter. The bridge itself is made of brass, plated with your chosen finish, which is fine. But these screws, they are not even as hard as brass, they are softer than that. So as you adjust these screws, your flathead screwdriver will chew up and mangle the slot! And, also, the screws are F#$*&ING flat-head slots!!! What sort of half-witted moron would use flathead slots here? As you cannot get your screwdriver 100% parallel to screw, there is no other way to do it than come in at a slight downwards angle... so your screwdriver is almost certain to slip out of the slot to scratch your guitar top!! If Schaller had 2 brain cells that worked, they would've used a normal HARD steel screw, and made it a philips-head, so your screwdriver does not slip out. Do NOT get a Schaller roller bridge.

@@An_Idiot_in_the_Wild dang, that’s no good. 😬 Thanks for sharing your experience. Good to know!

Thanks!

You’re sort of right. However see, @22:19 in the video. 😉

Whatever it takes! 😄

Oh no! Is there enough downward pressure on the bridge from the strings (enough break angle)? Maybe try some Vaseline on the rollers? I know how much those things cost. 😬 It’s frustrating when you have issues.

I had actually not heard of them. Thanks for sharing. 👍🏻

The bridge to the posts?

@@NathanSink 👶🎤🙏👶🎤🙏👹🎤👽🙏🖼️🩲🩲🩲🩲🩲🩲🔘🔘🔘🔘🔘🔘🔘🔘🔘🔘🔘🔘🔘🎟️🎟️🎟️🎟️🎟️🔘🔘🔘🔘🔘🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🩲🩲🩲🩲🩲🩲🩲🩲🩲👯‍♂️👯‍♂️👯‍♂️👯👯👯👯‍♀️👯‍♀️👯‍♀️👯‍♀️👨‍👩‍👦‍👦👨‍👩‍👦‍👦👨‍👩‍👦‍👦👨‍👩‍👦‍👦👮👮👮👮👮‍♂️👮‍♂️👮‍♂️👮‍♂️👮‍♀️👮‍♀️👮‍♀️👮‍♀️🎟️🎟️🎟️🎟️🎟️🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🔘🔘🔘🔘🔘🔘🔘🔘🔘🔘🔘🔘🔘🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🔘🔘🔘🔘🔘🩸🩸🩸🩸👹🩸👹🩸👹🩸👹🩸🔘🩸🔘🎄🗺️🌏

😬 Seems like it’s never quite the same.

Absolutely a valid point. When I went away from the Nashville style post on my Gibson, I think I actually made it worse for the Bigsby because the bridge doesn't have much "give" to rock back & forth.

That's just like on racing engines. Everybody always thinks "roller rocker arms" are the bees knees because "it rolls so there has to be less friction". Except that the "roller" only moves about 0.040" of an inch at the most and the wheel actually slides across the lifter face, still. Ita such a short distance that the roller doesn't have time to even roll. But you can't tell anybody that. "It's called a *roller* rocker. It rolls. Duh!" SMH 🙄

I’m not sure honestly. I don’t own a Jet, but I really want one! You will probably have to measure or verify your bridge post spacing to find out. This sounds like it might work: reverb.com/au/item/23044260-roller-adjustomatic-bridge-for-gretsch-guitars-6118-duo-jet

Yes, but it also depends on other things too. For example I had bad tuning with this bridge but it turned out that the issues were at the nut. Once I replaced the nut everything was great. And of course the rattle was able to be fixed too with a little effort.

@@NathanSink Thank you! I also have same issue, do not know if it is from compensated nut of bridge on a Schecter E1 SLS Evil Twin!

They actually did reach out not too long ago. Someone actually sent them my video. 😂 They said they looked but didn’t have a record of my email (I sent it through their website). Anyway, they wanted to make it right. Hopefully you get an answer. 😕

Here’s a video of me playing the guitar with the roller bridge (starts about 5:50 in): kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o7KXl8qbr9Clhp8.html

Thanks for the info. 👍🏻

Thanks for the info! So it’s: Z - zinc A - aluminum M - magnesium A - aluminum K - kopper 😁

@@NathanSink hah, that could be the reasoning for the naming i have no idea, i only know because im looking at a bridge replacement for my epihone limited 59 as the B string is buzzing thanks to the bridge and im considering faber, had a look at tonepros only reason i checked out what zamak is tonepros seems quite overpriced compared to faber tho

@@SubutaiTuul I got this TonePros on Reverb for about $60. The Faber one I bought was about $70.

@@NathanSink Im in europe and the one im buying from Faber Germany is 45 euros. with brass saddles. its around 70+ if i want Titanium but i think ill stick with brass

@@SubutaiTuul oh, gotcha. 👍🏻

Good thought, but it’s supposed to be able to roll or move with the strings as the Bigsby is engaged. Wouldn’t that hinder it?

Thanks! Playing it this Sunday! 😊

I just don’t like the way Schaller bridges look for some reason. 😬

I won’t argue with their performance, but they look too bulky for me. 😬🙂

@@NathanSink You wouldn’t notice, I had them on both H150s, they worked and strings seemed to last a little longer (Slinkys 9/42) as they had just that minute movement especially when you’re continuously bending the B+E strings, it has a low profile albeit just slight wider than stock but never noticed any differences of maneuverability or hindrance..

😂

FACTS! They’re shite

I don’t disagree, but I’m sort of a minimalist with regard to looks. The Schaller is pretty bulky. The good thing is that there are options! 🙂

😂😬

Yeah, they ignore you and they don't seem to sell any spare parts. Why can you not buy spare saddles for example?

@@ryanstark2350 the first rule of business is “The customer is always right”….unless you can get away without providing any customer service at all. 🙄

Where I live our guitar/music store options are extremely limited. In the past I was used to going to the store, rummaging through their miscellaneous single strings & getting what I needed. However, I’ve recently found that you can get packs of single gauged strings on Amazon. Score.

Well…it’s the only way I make any money off these videos…so. 😂

@@NathanSink pardon me, not popping at you...this is on almost every video I see on KZfaq...I think they're a bad platform..interruppting sensitive music, censoring us, spying on us....have a good day

Rest is best.

To be fair, TonePros did eventually reach out to me & seemed to want to genuinely help. I pinned a comment at the top with a little more detail.

Yeah, it was definitely an unpleasant surprise to me. 😐

@@NathanSink i ordered a schaller roller type, i hope its gonna be good. Im using the stock Tonepros bridge on my LTD ec1000, the saddles are from this zinc alloy, wich is just awful. it sticks, corrodes, i need to fight for harmonic content...

@@attilahavasi6987 hope it works out for you!

So… 1) I’m not German: I grew up in the southern US. What do you expect? How do you pronounce it: FAH-BEAR? 2) It’s not an IKEA table. I came up with it myself (here’s the video if you’re interested: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jZeIqauXlbaXfmQ.htmlsi=qzJkeN9oPyltYrmz No, the top isn’t real wood, but you can most certainly do a drop test on it. If two pieces are dropped & sound different it works: the sound is relative. 3) You comment later that I’m “cheaping out” on the bridge, yet you suggest using teflon tape as a solution? 4) I don’t believe the TonePros bridge is cheap or inferior. I got a bad one, but I fixed it & now it works perfectly.

@@NathanSink 1. I thought it was funny. 2. Didn’t mean to drag your table. The drop test is better done, on a more solid surface. Yes, the sound *is* relative… To what you drop it on. A solid surface will better transfer the metallic sound. 3 & 4. Tape is a solution, for an existing problem. If you’re replacing the bridge, on a Gibson, you should at least get a quality replacement. Not saying you should drop $400+, on a Four Uncles, but at least a Schaller, or Graph Tech. Both are similarly priced, to the TonePros, but much better quality. You’ll notice the difference.

Interesting. I’d be curious too. To me the biggest consideration with Graphtech is the possible change in tone. I would imagine though the PFT would make the strings slide back & forth with ease.

@@NathanSink it appears that on a new fender model they pair the bigsby with the jazzmaster mustang bridge which is rocking, however bushings are available from darrel riely that eliminate the rock, apparently this could work too