As I was taught by a faller fifty years ago now, start with the file low and as it moves forward twist the file in your hand and lift. This covers the whole face of the tooth from bottom to top in one pass and spinning the file uses the whole file and helps to keep it clean. Use only 2 or three passes, sharpen lightly but frequently.

Been cutting with, and sharpening, chain saws for 48 years now. My favorite hobby. This video has VERY good insights and advice. I personally use one hand for the file, and the other gloved hand to hold the tooth steady in the bar's slot....makes for a consistent mating file to tooth. I also, as noted below, put a 1/4 turn twist in each stroke....razor sharp, friends. Enjoy...stay warm...and be safe!

I’ve been falling timber in British Columbia since I was a teen. Hand sharpening is the only way to go, two firm passes with the right size file on either side, one pass on the rakers every third sharpening, takes about five minutes on a 24” bar and with practice to get the angle memorized, you should have big bright chips every time.

I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle kzfaq.infoUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.

All the information I've found about hand filing is quite adament to avoid dragging files back against the material. Make a filing stroke, lift the file away and then have another go, but not back and forth like a washboard. Good video. Nice presentation and no wasted time. Thank you.

I'm an arborist that's been running and sharpening saws for over 40 years. The Stihl and Pferd 2 in 1 sharpeners are the best thing going. Files your rakers to proper depth and sharpens the cutter at the same time. Try em, you won't be disappointed.

Always good to seek out advice, Im always learning. My buddy saved me a ton of time early on by telling me to switch to a shorter bar. Shorter bar less equals less sharpening time. He's been in the wood business for 40 years and like most have said already use good files and sharpen often there's really no shortcuts to getting a sharp chain. Its absurd how many times a tooth hits the ground even with the slightest touch. The older I get the more aware I am of wearing protective gear. One slip to the leg alone in the woods and your probably finished without a tourniquet. Im embarrassed to admit how little I knew about chainsaws when I started 30 years ago, wish I had KZfaq.

As a tool grinder for 35 years the rake angle ( the area that the chip follows after cut) is the most important. To keep that correct I use a file holder. It also shows the angle to the tooth. Well worth the time and money.

It's so sl to hear anybody freely say "this took me four years to figure out." Props to you for being a humble guy and passing along your well-earned knowledge. Obviously good folks watching the video, too. Merry Christmas, y'all.

I take a paint pen and mark what will be my first tooth, when it comes around it is time to change direction and to the opposite facing teeth, until the marked one comes around again. No counting or losing count.

What a lifestyle. I start my morning by dropping a couple of logs, then at work I fell a few logs and at night I'm stihl sawing logs. These vids give me a woody! I gotta leaf now. See ya fellers!

I applaud you for posting this vid and subjecting yourself to all the experts who shower you with their self righteous wisdom. They want everyone to believe they fell out of a vagina knowing how to sharpen a chain

Helpful hint: tighten your chain before you file, it keeps it in the guide groove, and helps you maintain better angles

As some others have said: 1. Tighten - over tighten the chain for sharpening, this keeps the file and tooth at 90 deg. 2. Make sure you have the right size file, it’s usually written on the box of a new chain. Buy two files per chain. 3.File - push the file- towards the sharpened edge only, do not draw it back across the tooth on the backstroke. 4. Those new file guides with two round files and one flat file combined made by, Stihl and others, work well. 5. Maintain the proper angle horizontally between the file and the bar, ie. parallel to the hatch marks on the each tooth. 5. Practise man Practise, I got better at it as I sharpened more. Eventually, it becomes a ‘zen’ thing, Relaxing , and I love doing it! 6. Definitely clamp the saw in a vice, as shown.

This is exactly how my Father taught me to sharpen the chain years ago, he is an industrial machine re-builder, Lovely tutorial.

Also try turning or rotating the file as part of your stroke to use your whole file and minimize build up on the file 👍 kool video Adam

Best advise I've gotten on here is don't let you chain get to dull they say to brighten it up every tank of gas but i get by with every 2 tanks hand file still works great.

Love your "no nonsense" videos. Another good one Adam. Looking forward to your livestream with shifty!

Great video and in-depth explanation. I have an old chain sharpening machine from the 70's that I bought at a farm estate sale for $30. So far, that is all I have needed...but, it is good to continue to broaden one's skillset. I appreciate the knowledge shared.

Great video, I’d like to confirm the Stihl 2 in 1 does a great job of filing the tooth and depth guide with perfect distance from tooth to depth guide. Also to stand out better I use old fashioned white out to mark the first tooth. Gary

Thanks for the tips Adam. I’m new to firewood and chainsaws and need to work on filing my own chains soon.

i been working with a chainsaw all my life ,and today . the first filling on my new chain is the sharpest that chain will ever be. sharper than factory .

Excellent video. I've been through the same evolution of saw sharpening you have (in processing firewood) and I've come to the same conclusion. Hand filing and examining the tooth gullet, depth gage, and tip close up is the key to getting that "out of the box" performance.

My family owned a mower store. I am a small engine mechanic. Certified briggs and stratton tech, I have sharpened more than 1000 chains in my life. We prefer Oregon Semi Chisel at 3/8. The flat teeth hold their edge longer and bounce off debris, the hogged out kind have a sharper thinner edge that blunts faster and hooks onto debris which can snap the tooth off completely. I have seen chains run into star pickets, fencing wire, Nails, Screws.. you name it :D I came to say you got it right. Well done. As others have said tighten the chain and don't file on the backstroke. Make sure to file the rakers down under the level of the tooth peak if the teeth are really worn down. (raker height gauge preferred) Thanks for taking the time out to teach others.

Stihl 2 and 1 file I’ve been hand filing my chains for 20 years got it for Christmas last year simple easy and works great

Been sharpening chains with a file since I was ten. Using two hands like he does always crowns the tooth. Much easier using one hand and tighten the chain more so the teeth don’t roll back and move around. Use my thumb on one side of the tooth to stabilize it. Have never had a problem sharpening a saw this way and always a out of the box result.

I always try to think of it like sharpening the chain and cutting a little wood in between sessions....

Make sure you're file isn't dull. They are cheap and a new one can save a ton of time

Eventually, you'll learn to sharpen with one motion that effects the gullet as well as the cutting edge. You'll know when you see the file "marry" the top cutting edge. 3 strokes is usually all that it takes for a non abused chain. Be sure to use a 7/32 file for 3/8th chain. Was a professional logger and have been cutting wood for 45 yrs. Needed to hand sharpen a 20" bar in under 4 minutes.

I took a white marker and marked 30 degree angles on the vice jaws to guide my filling.

Thank you very much for posting this. Been using a saw myself for about 3 years and have never paid attention to the gullet. Nice work!

I didn't realize how little interaction with the ground it actually takes to dull a saw. I knew not to cut into the ground but I thought incidental contact here and there wouldn't hurt. So wrong. That little bit will save me a lot in the future. Thank you!

basically the only video that actually teaches you how to sharpen a chain correctly.

Stihl makes the 2 in 1 file. Excellent tool. It’s all I use now.

Years ago I worked for the US Forest Service and I spent the entire summer on a four man crew thinning and cutting standing timber to reduce the fire loads around a couple of big camp grounds that had major die off from spruce bark beetles. We were not required to buck or limb the downed timber, just get as many on the ground in a week as we could. I discovered that if I did a quick touch up with the file every time or every other time I fueled up that I was able to drop more trees on a tank of fuel then the others. The saw just ran more efficiently and it only took a couple of minutes once you learned the tricks of hand sharpening. The other advantage of always having a sharp chain was that I was much more accurate and had less hang ups then the others. A couple of guys consistently had issues and a few close calls and it almost always came back to them not taking care of their saws and or chain maintenance.

They sell a gauge to set the height of the rakers

Ironically I discovered hand filing does the best sharpening also. Been sharpening with a bench grinder 16 years and found last week that a file does the best job... thanks for confirming

Simple tips took me years to learn(!) : 1) Color a tooth top with a Sharpie so you can quickly see when your sharpening loop is complete. 2) Over time the sawbar groove top surface can flatten out beyond the bar edge so I file away the splay both sides to restore uniform bar thickness. 3) If you don't have a grapple but have a tractor bucket with/without digging teeth, roll the log against the bucket edge on the ground with a cant hook then tie the cant hook handle to your upper center bucket hook (or use a hook on your tie for the bucket top lip) then lift the log so you have an instant sawhorse regardless. 4) Use a wire brush or hatchet away any underlog dirt at each area to be finish-cut before you finish the cut -through after your 75% upper log cuts even if you've no way to lift your log and/or keep it mud-free.

Great tips! I have always taken my file 5 to 7 time past the depth gauge. I find that I can cut 3 to 4 as much wood before a sharpening. It was a old tip that my father in-law taught me years back. Not a good idea for a one handed tree saw working from a bucket though!

I quit sharpening freehand 45 years ago. I use a Granberg jig. This maintains the angles I want for hard and soft woods, keeps me from over-filing and saves me a lot of money on chain. The jig fits in my tool bag and I can use it anywhere. While it won’t give me a new ‘out-of-the-box’ chain it’s close and makes cross-cutting and ripping much more productive and yes... There’s that great feeling I get when the saw cuts like going through butter. Good video.

Another tip (you may already know this ) I learned last year that the most efficient way to saw through wood , is in fact the rocking back and forth from nose to dogs pretty well , not just straight cut where you leave your saw level and cut through that way , it helped me alot

I've had really good results with the Stihl 2-1 sharpening tool. I know, it looks like a gimmick but it works and it's easy! Wranglerstar tested it on his channel and was surprised and impressed. Sharpens all of these edges in one pass.

Great sharpening tips! A bench sharpening trick I’ve found helpful is using long nose vice grips to clamp the chain to the bar. Also, I’d set rackers first, in case I accidentally nick the cutting edge. Thanks!

Great video, thanks for mentioning our LogOX 3-in-1 Forestry MultiTool as a good solution to this common problem. Along with helping you buck up logs as a cant hook or timberjack, when set up as a Hauler it's also useful for moving rounds and loading a log splitter while taking much of the strain off of your back and arms.

If you flip the saw upside down in the vice, the body of the saw is out of the way and you can sharpen more teeth without moving the chain. Also when you have a brand new file use nice light strokes until you break it in. The files are acid sharpened and the cutting edges are very fragile. If you put too much pressure on those edges big chunks break off making the file dull. If you use light strokes then just little chunks break off keeping a sharper file.

Ok that was the most informative demo on saw sharpening that I've seen. Good stuff Adam, thumbs up.

Thank you for taking the time to make the video!

You have no idea how much your video has helped. It is amazing

My teacher always said when it is below zero and/or the wood is covered in snow, the chain will get dull faster than in non frozen wood. I will try to wipe the snow of or just knock it of with another piece of wood. I myself and my co workers at work always use these file guides that you put on the file, they will help with sharpening the edge of the cutters and in the same pass creating the half moon shape. If used in the right way, those guides guarantee a sharp chain

Nicely done, Adam. Thanks for sharing. -Ed

My man. I've been running chainsaws pretty often now for a few months and this video was on point. Thanks.

Never pull a file backwards, it rolls the teeth over, wears it out quicker and just like your saw blade, makes it cut inefficiently.

I'm old school and I have always felt I do a better job with a hand file. I think that touch ups are important too. If the chain isn't really dull, just a quick job will help a lot. I have used the Stihl all-in-one sharpener, but I still like hand sharpening.

Buckin Billy Ray All you need to know about chainsaw and how to.

Get the gullet! I've done this as well and it really makes a difference. Thanks Adam!

That is a really good informative video sir I've been sharpening my chainsaws by hand since I was 12 years old and I'm 50 now

I think a good thing to mention is sometimes you may need an over sized round file for your chain or an under sized round file on hand because sometimes pending the shape of the tooth on the chain you will need it for correcting damaged teeth. It helps get the half moon shape back perfectly

I use the little oregon bits like you showed EXCEPT I put them in a die grinder that spins 20,000 rpm and I get my chains razor sharp. I actually sharpen brand new chains before using them because I can get them to cut better. Also the other thing A LOT of people dont do like you said is lower the rakers as they sharpen a chain over and over. The rakers are what sets how deep of a cut each tooth on the chain takes. If you sharpen the chain over and over and dont lower the rakers it will never cut well.. You can adjust the rakers based on the HP of your saw, more HP the lower you can set them and really make some chips.. The other thing is that chain you show is a "safety chain" with rolled over rakers and they dont cut nearly as well as a "pro" chain with just straight up rakers....

New friend here from arms family homestead, thanks for sharing I also cut firewood and this is great information! Stay safe!

Use the Stihl 2 in 1 file holder, it gets your rakers and the tooth perfectly every time you sharpen, it even has an angle guide to help you.

It helps a lot to tighten your chain so you can just comfortably turn from tooth to tooth, this makes it more rigid and easier to sharpen.

I have that same bit you referenced early in the video. Use that thing in a dremel and it’s awesome. I have had good look with it. Will try your file method sometime too though

Good job explaining the parts of chain and their functions. When sharpening a chain on the bar, it is a good idea to tighten it to keep it in the groove, especially if a jig is used, to keep consistent angles. For those having a hard time getting the angles correct, Granberg has a great guide for hand files called the 'File-N-Joint'. I prefer the 12v 'Grind-N-Joint' grinder. A guide that keeps everything aligned can be a great help for beginners.

I've gotten fairly experienced over time. You made some great points that should help. Thank you. Doug

I never used full chisel I've always used semi it's I'm always in dirty firewood. But I also touch up the chain after every tank and I never have a problem going dull.

Good stuff - Here's another top tip to give you an even sharper edge - ROLL THE FILE (approx 1/4 of a turn counter-clockwise as you push) this smooth twist of the wrist will sharpen that top edge even more.

Great info on how to sharpen properly. I was totally unaware of the gullet and cutting edge being different and having different angles. Thank you

I would like to start off by saying thank you for posting this video. I have been running chain saws for about forty years now and I still found it helpful. just wanted to add another good way to check your rakers is to bore into your cut. If it cuts easy and the saw wants to go in with little to no help they are just right. If you're pushing and the chain is sharp, they need to come down. It will also let you know if they are too low. Thank you for letting this old timber faller pass on some advice. God Bless and be careful everyone.

Been in the logging and tree service for 43 years have sharpened by file and grinder had one like yours but ended up getting 2 Oregon ones it's best to use two or three chains throughout the day when one gets dull switch it out with a sharp one as soon as you think it's getting dull and then spend 15 minutes sharpening all of them on the grinder will keep your production up. I use a cheap Windsor Carlton or Forester brand chain might not last as long but I'd rather have three sharp ones than one that I'm fighting with, the three of the cheaper ones will cost about the same thing as a good Oregon or stihl

I'll second the 2-in-1 tool recommendation. Also, the same tool is available from a variety of other manufacturers for other saws, e.g. Husqvarna, Pferd, etc. The 2-in-1 tool makes sharpening a snap. That said, even a plain filing guide for your chain is a great improvement over the "file the depth gauge, cut, repeat" process. You can get the depth gauges exactly to the proper height relative to the teeth on the first try. Naturally, make sure the round file is the right size for the chain. Using the wrong size file is going to put the shape of each tooth out of whack relative to the rest of the chain geometry.

Thanks. Learn something new every day. I tend to tighten the chain more for sharpening.

Been sawing and bench sharpening for years but never knew about the gullet, thanks for sharing and I will now try to do it right. Great video and well presented

Tighten up on that chain and QUIT dragging that file on the backstroke!

When he mentioned the gullet I thought about buckin billy ray, then he referenced him 😂

Great video Adam. just wanted to share, i had a logger show me once that if you twist the file as you push it thru it can take care of the gullet and the cutting edge at the same time. seems to work well for me.

Love your videos. I work in the sawmill industry, for most sawmills the debarker allows the scanners to get a better view of the log before its bucked into blocks.

I feel like my brain just increased its capacity by a factor of 20. Thank you for this exceptional, humble and honest training video. Wow. Man you just don't know how stupid I was before I saw this video.

When your sharpening your chain tighten up your chain more so it’s not coming out of the bar

I love how informative this channel is! Keep it up! Loving this channel and now a subscriber 🙂

Thanks for the added info on this subject even though some ppl have contrary opinions. The video is still a good submission of context to learn from. Thanks.

I started swinging a saw when i was 14. The guy i learned from showed me how to file a chain and wouldn't let me run the saw till i could sharpen to his satisfaction 10 times. It took me 2 days to get it right and now at 57 i can file my saw without my glasses on. This was definitely a good video for beginners

I always file from the opposite side than you demonstrated into the tooth to prevent a wire edge from forming on the cutting edge. Kinda like sharpening a knife edge. Your technique for the 2 step sharpening is spot on to get the entire cutting edge sharp but I seem to get a cleaner sharper edge filling from the other side.

Very good vid bro. I have been sharpening saw blades for decades with little tips other than the basics. This one was detailed and easy to follow. 👍👍

Brother You can do it in the same pass watch those long timer saw guys roll there wrist as they are moving forward also make sure you use a large enough file so hit hits both. You’ve definitely came a long way in four years!! I enjoy your videos. ! You have a peaceful energy about and always come across humble about things not like you think you have it all figured out!! God bless Andy.

You really need to get rid of those safety chains. Since you've been cutting for a few years you know about kickback and shouldn't have that issue. Those big safety rakers just just stop the blade from cutting faster. And tighten up that chain when you sharpen it so you're not filing it sideways when it rolls out.

I really like those square tooth chains. They cut twice as fast as a low kick back chain.

I have tried a lot of sharpening tools. The one that I think does the best job of sharpening the gullet and cutting edge is the Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener kit. A little slower than a hand file, but more reliable.

I was always Leary of doing this until I found Buckin Billy Ray. I’m on the path now. Thanks friend

Love the video Adam! I just started hand filing with mixed results. I think I’m gonna try out your method!

Watching, learning, and appreciating with a like and this comment. Thank you Adam. 👍🏾

You got that chain cutting nice. It took me a while to get good at filing. I was fed up with the hardware store butchering my chain with their grinder.

I've got an idea that may be a long term sort of update theme, where every so often you test a brand of chain, once when brand new, and then just whenever you feel, after periods of use

The electric chainsaw sharpener you showed at first is often miss-used and that's why it does not get good results. What you pointed out is right. With electric sharpener, first don't touch the face of the tooth but sharpen the gullet. Then as you raise the sharpener, push-in on the sharpener wheel as you exit to sharpen the face. You will get better results this way. Forth years of sharpening chains teaches you things. Hope this is helpful.

Agree with the other comments on tightening the chain. Get it so tight that its a bit of a struggle to move it, and the sharpening goes better. I've never been a pro, but have been cutting firewood for 50 years, starting with an ungodly heavy Mac. I also tried grinder options and hand files always won out. Like so many things, the quality of files has gone downhill. Nicholson used to be good. But now the best I can find are pferd, but I have not yet tried the Vallorbe files.

I’ve never used a chainsaw in my life before moving to the mountains where I live now. I was fortunate to be neighbors with someone who’s been cutting and dragging trees off the mountains for decades using mules. I’m not sure if even he knew about the file not sharpening both at the same time. He taught me how to do it by hand. I’m going to have to pass this on. Thanks for the education.

I use a plastic felling wedge on the bottom of the bar (in between the drive links and the bar rail) to keep the chain from being so sloppy. I’m no expert, but I do cut a lot of firewood and sharpening chains has been part of my daily routine for the better part of a decade. Good video!

Can’t ever go wrong referencing Buckin Billy Ray!

Working in the woods every day with a saw one develops the skill to make a saw cut free hand. This is true for a chain right of the box, not sharp, well not sharp enough. Needs to be touched up with a file. Now that I am not running a saw all day, every day, the out of the box chain seems good enough for me now. The skill one looses from not being active is also apparent when I walk up to the tree. Look for the lean and not seeing it right. My experience is if you don't use it you loose it.. this is what separates the pros from the rest of us.

The only thing I would add is remember to keep the correct angle when filing. Also, if you are just starting and dont want to do it by hand with the individual files get one of the hand file guides. I think stihl and echo both make some good ones and husky probably does too. They're usually pretty good at shaping the teeth and help get the raker height right. They can also be better than some of the electric jigs like the one you showed as although those jigs deliver consistent grinds on each tooth the way they're built doesn't quite shape the tooth correctly. I believe the dremel guides are alright at shaping the tooth but they don't really do much for the raker and they of course cut much faster than a hand file which has its pros and cons.

Great video. I will share a tip I got from my uncle years ago about sharpening. A larger file will sharpen gullet and leading edge at the same time.