This could actually help all motors but no one does it

Yup! I do it all the time. Service manual says 2 minutes minimum.

Get a chip and it will do it for you

Mr Wilson - a chip? I think a turbo timer will do it but I dunno what this “chip” is

walmart $3/gal www.walmart.com/ip/DEF-Diesel-Exhaust-Fluid-2-Jug-Bundle/384243022 free shipping

I just heard about this a few weeks ago from Bus Greese Monkey. Who would have thought? Lol

Good for gas engines too! A "shot" to dry the ignition components (when needed), and another down the intake. The WD-40 isn't just fuel... it can help bring up the compression (by "sealing" rings and valves) in extremely cold AND/OR worn gasoline engines allowing them to start easier.

Starting fluid is like crack to diesel

Don Martin well except for crackheads don’t spontaneously explode when using it

@@donmartin9640 yep. Give them one hit and they need it every time.

If you use ether do a short shot of it before starting, & TURN OFF the glow plugs. If your glow plugs are turned off it won’t pre-ignite, & do damage. Fowled glow plugs doesn’t count as turned off glow plugs. Any idi w good glow plugs will start without ether, I’ve never used ether on her, & hope I never do. If you need a starting aid use WD40.

Upgade exhaust tips lol nothing stupider then a giant exhust tip

You cant lite Diesel on fire

It sounds like your 7.3 is still running strong! I've only heard bad things about the GM 5.7 diesel. Supposedly it's a common problem for the blocks to crack, they messed up with the casting and didn't let it cool properly or something like that. It stinks that you had to do so may repairs on the 5.7. At least you've got a good 7.3 now!

@@Rnddiesel Im pretty sure the GM 5.7 diesel was based on a standard 350 cubic inch gas engine. I think they actually did go to four bolt mains, but that block was never designed to handle the much higher compression ratios and cylinder pressures that diesels create. These things were born to failure!

@@Thedoug369 I really don't know all that much about the Olds 5.7 diesel other than its terrible reputation and lack of power. I had the impression that the displacement was the same as a 350 gas engine simply because GM already had the tooling to make everything that size, but that the block and cylinder head makeup was different to account for the diesel cycle. Supposedly if the 350 was just converted to a diesel cycle, it wouldn't have even had a fighting chance of living. The Olds 5.7 was beefed up at least somewhat, but apparently not enough...

@@Rnddiesel I read a report years ago about the 5.7 olds Diesel and what it said was that the biggest problem was the fact that the compression levels were not close enough and what it would end up snapping cranks and cracking blocks. cylinder compression with vary from 17 to 1 to 21 to 1 so you can see what would happen there. Once they got the compression levels even the engines held up. My brother had one back in 79 + it ran like scalded dog. Not much good in the mountains though. It could have you used a turbo. It got low twenties for fuel mileage.

LOL, I just bought a 97 7.3, flooded it, and blew the airbox up with ether :-/ $350 on ebay for that air box!

Thanks for the advice! We've got a couple old tractors with the built in ether button as well, but go figure that doesn't work on a 50 year old tractor. I think a lot of it depends on the design of the engine. I'm sure the built in ether mechanism is designed to administer the stuff in a somewhat safer manner. Definitely being cautious when using ether is a good thing, though ideally the engine would start without it!

It goes to below -30° here. I run my gasser for like 20 min so I don't have to drive with gloves on. Your power steering pump sounds like a sheep passing a kidney stone when you start your vehicle.

Here is me starting a Cummins ISX in the cold. It was plugged in and still made nasty noises kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rbOempOYttu8gYE.html

You've got a switch that turns the relay on or off or are you completely bypassing the computer controlled circuitry with the switch to manually engage the relay? 'Monitoring' probably isn't the best term to have used in describing the setup, I probably should have set 'regulating' more or less. For the sake of being more general, some engines have what's called a 'post glow' function. Essentially the glow plug relay is left on for a certain period of time by the computer even after the engine is running. This helps it run better when warming up especially for folks who are less patient about waiting for the truck to be warm enough to drive. The 7.3 psd does this to some extent but it's not as sophisticated as having 'monitoring' capability from my understanding. I could be wrong in that regard, I haven't had the chance to crack into the ECM programming and see how it determines glow plug on time. Based on sensor readings like engine oil temperature, the ECM determines how long the glow plugs should be set on for. This is partially why the wait to start light stays on longer when its colder outside. Glow plug on time is done very carefully to prevent the glowplugs from overheating. You may also notice that the glowplugs may kick off and back on if operating properly. Basically the glow plug control system switches the glow plugs on and off to ensure they don't overheat. If you left your glowplugs switched on for a significant period of time when the engine is running, odds are you'll generate way too much heat in the glow plug and cause serious damage to them. While many modern glow plugs have a self regulating functionality to them, it still isn't good to keep them switched on. You may be able to get by with manually controlling the glow plugs, but for someone who's never done it before and may not know from experience what an adequate amount of time is, odds are they'll mess up the system. I definitely don't feel comfortable enough to manually control the glow plugs because the ideal glow plug on time is a function of temperature, and I don't know what that functional relationship is. Either way the original system is designed to be 'foolproof' or darn near close to it. This way bingo players like up can just turn the key and let the computer handle the proper glow plug on time for cold startup. At least that's my understanding of the system!

Years ago I worked for a guy that had an old Ford that had a bad glow plug controller and had thus done the manual conversion. I did not know they were short-duty cycle plugs on those engines at the time and did the standard 30 seconds to a-minute burn time before starting. A day later we found out I took out all the glow plugs doing that and he had a fit and told me I was stupid and knew nothing about diesel because nobody ever runs glow plugs that long on anything to get it started. I then commented on every diesel-powered piece of equipment he had from the old forklift, and skid steers on up to his big cranes, tractors, and old heavy trucks and asked him how long he runs the glow plugs on them to get them started. His answer, at least 30 seconds to a minute or they will never start. 😋

@@tcmtech7515 I decided to add the option of manual control to the truck by wiring in a switch under the dash. It's not hooked up though as I fixed the factory system and its been doing ok so far. If it fails again, I'll have the option.

Which motor? Oil warmer? We had have MF, but some of them are a pain in the ass in winter times.

IDAK Mr. jjj

On my 02 7.3 van fortunately i have the 5r110 trans ...

@@brucedressel4523 So you got that swapped in from the factory 4R100? I would like more info on this. I have an 01 7.3 and, yes, the 4r100 is trhe weak link.

@@melrobinson6919 The van already had the 5r110 when i bought it used from culligan water company ...

@@brucedressel4523 Nice... Always thought the 5R100 came out with the 6.0, so during the 03 model year. Would love to have that extra gear.

I've never used it in a smaller diesel, but have used it hundreds of times in the past in the large engines. You need to understand that it usually only takes a quick shot or two to get one started - preferably by a second person while someone else is starting it. A little is OK. A little more can be destructive. And whatever you do, once it starts, resist the urge to hold or pump the accelerator at WOT until it smooths out (seen it many times). Use just enough throttle to keep it running because there is a lot of weight slinging around inside the block that may not be getting enough lubrication to be run at WOT until it warms up a little.

I was always told that th more you use starting fluid on a diesel th more youl have to to

When you shut the engine off you cut off its oil supply. Not a good thing if it's hot and spinning at 200,000 rpm.

Rnddiesel If you live in a cold climate plug in your block heater this is for everyone who has a Diesel truck

@@chanseormon That's definitely not a bad idea if you have access to power where you park!

Rnddiesel use the Archoil AR6200 and AR9100 Fuel and Oil Additives

@@chanseormon I've heard good things about the Archoil products, and I probably will try them out one of these days. It's just hard to justify at the time being, Archoil isn't cheap!

There is absolutely NO modern diesel engine running "well north" of 20:1 compression. That being said, gasoline will indeed destroy a diesel engine, due to BOTH detonation and lack of lubricity.

@@benjaminconnolly5655 Forgive me, I was raised on the older/naturally aspirated diesels, which sit around 25:1. Modern turbo diesels are between 15:1, to 20:1. I humbly apologize for my mistake in clarification.

This is not at all correct. When oil is cold the viscosity is higher, not lower. Watch a Project Farm KZfaq video where he tests oil and you will see it flows very slowly when cold.

Or you can use brake cleaner, it cleans your brakes AND starts your truck at the same time 😂😂😂

Idling in gear while holding the brake not only puts the engine under a slight load and causes it to warm up quicker but it also warms up the trans oils quicker as well. I do the same thing myself.

I've seen that for vw too

In germany you can do that, no problem …. To prevent gelling of the diesel …. @32F = 0C no gasoline …. For every -1C after that 1% gasoline …. Up to a max of 20 or 25% The American’s on the other hand say oh no, no gasoline …. But the manual of my 91 cummins said, in an emergency you can run it on kerosene 😂🙄🤦‍♂️ Now with modern (2007 and never) personally i would not put gasoline or Kerosin mix in the diesel….

Not entirely true. If the block heater is plugged in, it should start without it. Done it many winters.

@@wushock92 not practical for the machinery and trucks that are on location without power

@oShane Kasper LOL. Reminds me of a story about the founder of Cummins having to light a fire under his fuel tank on a road trip to Washington, D.C. to display the motor in an automotive application. Up until then, diesels were primarily used in marine applications. The book was called My Days With the Diesel.

@@wushock92 can u do that on my aircraft running diesel. jet.A...in the dark.

Not all vehicles have that. It's a nice feature when you do though. My old van, a 1995 G20, didn't have a gas cap hanger like that. But my 2006 international pb105 has a feature like that, the cap has a chain on it which holds the cap near the neck of the tank. SUPER useful feature.

Austin Sparks yeah our international 4400 hates the negative weather... but I can’t bring myself to use ether. We plug in the block and have a tender on our 3 batteries.

Once you use it it is dependent on it

Fuck no. Starter fluid has lubricants in it. If it wasn't my engine I would use brake kleen

Brake cleaner is the WORST thing to use! Not only can it damage paint, and plastic but it also washes away any oil in the cylinders. A lot of big diesel vehicles and equipment have a bracket and line under the hood for an ether bottle (same size and type as a propane torch bottle). All of our 5 ton trucks as well as others when I was in the Army had that feature with a “cold start aid” button on the dash to spray a metered amount into the intake.

@@bigdaddy7119 And Ether doesn't wash away the oil . I think you mean brake fluid .

@@juliogonzo2718 Starter fluid is PURE ether.

Paul S no sir, brake cleaner will eat up paint and plastic. And as someone else posted, your starting fluid ether has a small amount of oil in it for lubrication. Spray some on a piece of concrete and when it dries, you can see the outer ring still there because oil doesn’t evaporate

I'm sorry to hear about your truck! It's certainly going to take a lot of torque to turn the engine over. It may sound obvious, but have you tried charging the batteries and then cranking the engine over? Basically rule out that a bad alternator would have caused the truck to die. If your batteries are low on charge from a bad alternator your starter won't be much good. Diesel engines are hard to turn over by hand already. Assuming that's not the case, you may want to try taking off the valve cover and seeing if there's anything obviously wrong there. If you were really pushing the limits of the engine with the tuner, and 13300lbs is a heavy trailer, you may have damaged the engine with excessive exhaust gas temperatures, which there is no factory gauge for. I'm hoping that's not the case as the engines are fairly resilient. It could be any number of things, and without personally being there I'm afraid I won't be much help. Also make sure the transmission isn't causing the engine to be locked up.

On my 7.3 my ac compressor locked up and shut my engine down and locked her down. Had good batteries and a new engine but was shocked that that would stop it.

40+ years of turning wrenches, that's impressive! Its sad to hear stories about engines being ruined with ether. It's my #1 thing to not do as well, I probably should have numbered them in the video, but I ordered them from not so bad, to worst in the video. So you've never had WD-40 give you issues with ruining an engine?

What’s runaway?

@@debspeakes9750 basically it starts to use oil as fuel and starts a reaction that ends with the engine exploding. Taking the key out of the ignition does nothing, it's pretty insane. Reason I keep a fire extinguisher in my truck.

Al Killian I have no idea who Cummings is

Yeah a lot of these do pertain to older diesel engines - at least that's the reference I'm coming from. I did try to throw in a mix to account for more modern diesel engines as well. Though frankly most of these topics are also applicable to modern diesel engines.

Now you know helicopters don't fly........they beat the air into submission! 🤣🤣🤣

Much respect to you.

Very true, but gets stuck in wet grass. Had to get rid of mine for that very reason. Garbage when you're trying to actually do something rather than look pretty.

Ford diesels are junk, just because the 7.3 won’t blow up doesn’t make it close to the best.🤦‍♂️ Ford diesels have been screwing over their owners since 2004 😂

Alex Kent what’s a better diesel then? Not ram or a duramax

12 valve Cummins, 05-07 5.9 Cummins, LBZ duramax. Take your pick

Nice! I ran fresh cooking oil once when I was desperate and couldn't get diesel. It still ran fine, though I did run some mineral oil and that did cause some white smoke... It's all clean now though!

@@Rnddiesel Boy thats crazy, gotta do what you gotta do. Maybe if im in TX some time we can talk about all the crazy things

It sounds like that would work! The only thing with modern diesels especially, is that they tend to have plastic intakes tubes. You'd have to be careful to not melt those in the process!

Rnddiesel just put it on low. And don’t hold it right in the intake

Basically this is what the Cummins uses instead of glow plugs. Has an air heater in the manifold entrance. Definitely works if you do it right!

Traditional way was a rag soaked in diesel and burn it beside intake so flame is sucked in, it does work but I once saw a forklift with cylinder head removed and cylinder was nearly full of half burnt paper and rags

Yes definitely! Great thinking! You definitely don't want oil burning inside a hot turbo.

Jeff Leblanc 0-40 is wicked for winter, definitely easier to start in -40 lol

I see your points! Cheap exhaust fluid can leave minerals deposits on the surface of the SCR catalyst which will definitely be detrimental. Also I'd imagine that some minerals could react negatively with the precious metals as well, though I'm no chemist. It definitely wouldn't be good if you added DEF fluid to the diesel tank, I know the Ford's have the DEF fill next to the tank, so it wouldn't take much to accidentally add DEF to the diesel tank. Regarding the Sea Foam, I have no idea! I've heard good things about it working in gasoline engines, though I'd need to do more research as to whether or not it decreases the fuel lubricity if added to diesel. Thanks for the input!

Def is used in the catalyst to eliminate nitrous oxide after the egr screwed up the combustion process to lower temps to reduce formation of nitrous while increasing smoke because of incomplete combustion , requiring a particle trap that needs to be burned out . There are reports out of Europe saying that this system is causing new pollutants that are extremely carcinogenic . All of this was brought about by manufacturers getting laws passed to require it (follow the money trail). I used seafoam in a 97 diesel that had been sitting for 7 years when I put it back on the road . It runs great and no problems .

The SCR did make a difference in fuel economy too from my understanding. Running less EGR probably helps the engines last longer as well! I hadn't heard of the new carcinogens being caused by the SCR. That's definitely concerning. If it's not that I guess its the diesel particulates that'll give you lung cancer one thing or the other.

It's primarily the egr that screws everything up , the scr and the trap are just taking care of the problems . I was talking to the Detroit diesel rep in 2009 and he said that they expected engine life to be cut by about 500,000 miles and milage by about 2 mpg. How that is supposed to help the environment I have no idea .

@@cbmech2563 Holy cow, that is ridiculous! Most vehicles don't even last 500,000 miles! I can definitely see why a lot of 6.0 psd owners delete the EGR.

I'm not too familiar with wastegated 7.3's, my OBS with the stock turbo is non-wastegated. From my understanding though, pulling the red line either limits the functionality of the wastegate or disables it all together. The wastegate directs exhaust gasses around the turbine in the turbocharger. This basically allows Ford to get away with using a smaller A/R ratio housing on the turbine to improve low end response. The disadvantage to that is that the smaller housing becomes a restriction at higher flow levels (i.e. at high rpm and boost pressures). The wastegate allows exhaust to bypass the turbine to reduce restriction up top and to keep the turbo from over-speeding. You'll probably see some increase in boost on the higher end but at the cost of decreased turbo life (due to over-speeding) by disconnecting the wastegate red line. Also disconnecting the red line will decrease turbocharger efficiency on the top end as well. It really wasn't designed to spin that fast and work well. I have heard plenty of stories of people doing it anyways and everything remaining okay. It's basically just a band aid to getting a higher performing turbo. That's just my two cents though, best of luck and have fun!

I have heard of the guy! Awe man, maybe I'm weird, but when I see any of these things done, I can't help but cringe. Heck even when those Honda Civics fire up in the morning and its 20 degrees outside, I still cringe when the 'owners' immediately romp on it after start up!

He is minty

I don't really know enough about propane injection to have an opinion one way or the other. Anything that does push the limits of the engine beyond its design power level however is likely to decrease the life of the engine. Of course that only applies if you use that power with your right foot.