I did rebuilds on numerous spindles during my 26 years as a CNC tech on Mazak machines. The reason for the grease being thrown out of the bearing is that the bearing must be totally dry (no oil) before it is greased. The grease does not stick properly to the bearing if there is any oil present. I used to wash the bearings in an acetone bath before fitment.

that button you have on the power drawbar is such a great idea, I'm gonna copy it

I bought in the past GMN bearing from Germany that come shielded very good quality and the price is lower than NSK and the precision grade was P2 (ABEC 9). Also next time heat your bearing in toaster oven and put your shaft in the freezer overnight. Your assembly will be super slide fit and you will be able to screw the bearing nut to the proper torque without having to fight against friction.

16:35 When having bearings in this arrangement it actually is quite important to torque them accordingly, that is specifically important for the longlivity of the bearings. If you put it too tight the stress on the bearing can easily become problematic, it's good that you were gentle. They should provide a spec

I miss my old job at a spindle repair company where I worked. I was a breakdown tech. I started at the very bottom breaking them down then cleaning them. Was wanting to rebuild them but the company got bought out and will be moving out of state soon. Still enjoy watching these videos though!! Thanks for filming it!

Very informative video on a spindle rebuild ^^ Remember watching Robin Renzetti's tips video a few years back and learning a ton

Fantastic teardown and explanation. Thank you!

This is an awesome video! Thank you for all the detail on the parts and repair process!

Very good video, we have cnc router router that we had to replace the spindle on last year, different configuration but i would assume the working principles are the same, what happen it just got to where it would move over the tool to make too make a change, push down to load the tool and stop, it was like the gripper would not close down on the tool Itself, thoroughly cleaned and lubricated the grippers but got the same result, re cycled the machine while it was over the tool in the load postion I gave a tap wlth a dead blow hammer and picked up the tool. I would assume that there are some type of spring or connical washer either broken or sticking. called around most spindle rebuider's where telling me that between 8and 14k to rebuild. I actully purchased a used one off ebay and has worked fine , thought bout just tearing into the old one and attempting to do the repair or rebuild myself, just dont think it could be that complicated, i have a lot of experince rebuilding other type's of machine spindles for example moulders and shaper's.

A lot spindle repair technicians will massage the grease of the bearings. before sticking them in the spindle. Robin ranzetti does a excellent video on how he and others do it. Something that you might want to look in to when you do a replacement next time.

Great to see you making videos again. Awesome video by the way. Think I'll attempt the rebuild my spindle when it fails after seeing this. Once again Tormach end users fixing their issues.... /sigh

Most excellent video! Thank you very much for this.

I had a similar problem to one of your older videos. I had a part pull out the vise and ended up stalling out the mill by jamming against the part/vise/end mill (it was exciting). Had the same symptoms with the spindle binding up and noticed I had the same rubbing issue on that collar. I measured about .0002" of run out on my BT30 mounting face. I believe the spindle is good and that collar is a little to tight and messing with my world right now. Back to your bearing question, my spindle has sealed bearings, HP7008C-2RZTN1/P5 DBA for the bigger bearing and HP7006C-2RZTN12/P5 DBA for the smaller bearing. Thanks for the informative video.. Also I use XTREME CUT 250C and it doesn't nearly eat away at my paint like yours does. I have been using it for about 4 years and am really happy with it. You can always ask the distributor for a sample 5 gallon bucket to try it out.

Hey, Jayson. The oil that is puddling around the spindle is pnuematic lubricant coming from the power drawbar and oil from the coolant mist. Mostly from coolant mist. Thanks for the video. Just submitted my request for a new spindle with tormach. If they warrantee it (like they should), I’ll be replacing the bearings in the bad spindle.

Brilliant Video

Hey Jason! Long time no see. Great video as always, hope the business is doing well. Ciao, Marco.

Great video, thanks! Shocking to see the orings sliced up straight from factory. Just a small chamfer would take care of that but I guess it's 1 op too many for the factory 😔

Hey Jay, I was just talking to my dad about you, and your video on the Spindle replacement.. plus raving about your knives. I was discussing that you've replaced your spindle bearings a couple times now and your machine is going pretty much non-stop.. So, I went back to see if you made a video on when you got your machine. I saw the video on machining carbon fiber. My Uncle Ernie, who passed away suddenly a couple years ago, on Dec 16th (MASTER Machinist to say the least) said you can't easily cut carbon fiber and warned about cutting it, as it may mess up your CNC bearings or other things.. like the small conductive fibers that can possibly get into your servos, etc. Do you think it's possible, that small fragments of the carbon fiber, got up into your upper spindle bearings, leading to pre-mature failure? I noticed you run coolant. I haven't gone through all your videos, so I'm unsure if you run some type of a filter, but Carbon itself is one of the hardest substances on earth. Great material, but it has consequences according to my uncle. I wish I could call him up right now and ask his opinion, but sadly, I have to look for other source of information, or spread the weee bit of knowledge he shared. You'd have loved that dude in your shop! He'd do math in his head and has stuff still in his old shop, that's a mystery to me how it even functions. Cheers.

thanks once again

FYI VC, before changing bearings I attempted to spin spindle faster, and it was not happy even around 12.5k. This was about 6 months ago or so. I just replaced bearings because I washed them with a ton of mist coolant/lube, and they weren't happy with that either.......so after swapping bearings I was able to spin up to 15k with no issues. I havent tried cutting anything, but figured this may be useful, at least with short toolpaths with small tools.

Hello Mr. Edge since you had the spindle out have you measured the OD of the spindle and the length of the spindle that goes in the housing? I was wondering if this spindle would work in my pcnc 1100. Thanks

muy bueno

Pressing is the best way

It's interesting that the new bearings get hot just like the stock ones. I fully expected that the bearings in my spindle were getting hot because they are cheap and low quality. I pointed one of my coolant nozzles directly at the spindle nose to help carry the heat away. It helps significantly. I think in the future I will make a collar that fits the nose of the spindle, with the nozzles pointing towards the tool, that way the coolant flowing through the collar can take some heat, and the coolant still gets sprayed on the tool.

Great to see you making another video! I have a question about the bearings. The ones removed were sealed… the ones that went back in were open sides. I know you made a Kapon ‘cover’ but, is there a spindle nose seal at all? What stops coolant and chips working their way upto the lower bearing beyond the nose cap? Is it just your Kapon Tape seal?

Hi Great Video..... does the new spindle have a maker name on the box?

17:00 "I guess the torque doesn't matter". Oh yes it does ! It sets the preload, and that is the single largest factor when dealing with spindle bearings. The NSK docs will go into it in excruciating detail most likely.

So I followed this video and replaced my old bearings with the ones you used. Spindle is immaculate. However now i am having trouble with spindle orientation.

awesome videos! looking at ordering one of these so your videos are very helpful. run a diesel engine machine shop and also a gun shop so having one of these to tinker with would be awesome! mainly would be working with aluminum and then steel for doing optic cuts and or slide cuts on pistol slides. how well does it cut through steel? thank you!

Just wondering how ths preload can be correct when you have the tape on outer bearing race face and not on the inner?

You wouldn't happen to have one of the old spindles laying around would you? I'm looking for the outer diameter and length of the cartridge housing above the mounting flange.

Angular contact bearings should have a continues force applied. It is best not to hammer on them but have a continues force (use a press or something similar). Note the < mark. This mark tells what wall force can be applied to. Make sure to calculate out the proper grease amount G=K*Gref. Check out SKF guide on initial bearing fill (it is based on bearing inner volume and rpm). Please don't put tape on the angular contact bearing. Also, make sure to break in the bearings slowly so the grease spreads evenly in addition to evenly distributing the grease when filling the bearing.

Personally I would put one back together and sell the machine as fast as I could. Not only is it likely going to continue having problems… but I wouldn’t really want to continue supporting a company with that quality of workmanship and quality control

Thanks for the video. By the way, what coolant are you using?

good afternoon, can you please recommend some good literature on repairing and duplexing spindles?

See the video of robenz for greasing with kubler on taper bearing

Why are the painting falling of your machine ?

Where did you find/purchase those bearings where the total price put you in the mid $300's?

Could the O-RINGS be just from a bad batch. They have a tendency to harden over time depending on conditions where they're being used. Do these O-Rings come in different specs? I'm only asking bcos I dont really know my friend. I'm relatively new to the Use of O-Rings but weren't the O-Rings one of the issues with the the SPACE SHUTTLES? I'm getting off topic from a CNC but u get my meaning I hope. Why are bearings so important in Spindles? Hope u don't mind me asking man.. I am hopeful that ur good self or somebody in the comment section can help me with some answers and maybe some advice on my own home built CNC Router.. Can I also ask why Balancing would be a bit over kill when it would maybe or obviously make things much better for u in the long term usage of this machine my bro??

Where can i buy the bearings and the grease? great video!

Hi, do you know the measurements and size of the spindle cartridge friend........ps love your videos

Is the spindle still performing ? I thought I saw a FB thread somewhere that said you may be having it rebuilt by a professional rebuild center and at a much higher cost.

You should convert to 5 barring and air oil. if you have clean air.

As Stefan says, 'When you buy chinese, you are just buying a kit of parts'.

*4:30** Nice knife, what is it?*

The other spindle you showed had the AC bearings mounted in the wrong orientation (21:40). That might also explain why they failed prematurely

Wow! Such an awesome Channel I came over here to check you out, because of your comment over on my channel. The parts you show at 1:05 , you left tabs on there, but I have so many questions. I am doing something similar, but having a chattering issue with final cutout. Unsure how to contact you, but if you do contract work, or, you'd be willing to work as engineering consult, etc, let me know. My 1100mx is still under warranty, but Tormach has not dealt with my issue at all. My machine is brand new. The only thing I tend to do during the day, when I can't work on it, is use the lights on the machine for photo booth, lol. I'm afraid my brand new machine, with this spindle issue right from Tormach, is going to be needing bearing replacement. They've been silent and they've seen my video. Let me know! I left you a comment on my video as well, but seeing you've got activity on this already , you might be a bit busy. Thanks brother! Appreciate you taking the time to come over to let me know.

Ok, after a long series of conversations, referencing the video, Tormach was nice enough to send me a brand new spindle to swap out. So, John (amazzzzzingly helpful and SUPER nice dude by the way) and I spoke about your video here and even your response to me originally. I am going to make a video as well, before and after. It's not my motor for sure. I bypassed the spindle reference on Friday night, with John on the phone, disconnected the belt and the motor it quiet as can be. So, my spindle bearings, or something in the spindle hasn't been right since day 1. I'll be doing my own video this week, and also putting a link in to your video if you don't mind. Do you mind if I use some of your video here, with permission, to reference and link back? I'll make it a privately viewable video at first and send you a link (somehow, not public) and let you give me a thumbs up. I sincerely appreciate you! Cheers!

how about making one of those spindles. Completely oil lubricatet it is recomended for spindles running high rpm. In higter rpm grease becomes obstruction, because surface tension. It is like hitting water with your hand. Do that for whole day your hand is going to hurt.

Please make a simple screw jack kind with a metal plate and 3 studs to remove or fix bearings onto the spindle shaft. Dont hammer

This is why we use metal shields on our bearings, it keeps the grease in place and debris out even without the spindle cover!

How much NM(newton force) / Kw of a spindle power as minimum required for steel milling process ?

I think it was necessary to grind the rings to achieve duplexing

6:28 there is a P5 digits on the product code I can see, this probably means it is a P5 precision class bearings. P5 is the cheapest and the lowest quality for precision parameter. A P2 precision class is the most precise bearing, with nanometer-scale tolerances, you would have a runout of less than 1 micron on such bearings and a spindle would cost about 3k to 4k USD

Boi your coolant is eating your machine, what coolant are you running?

Wait what was that knife?

they have tested it with 10000 rmp . the result is clearly visible,, spindles should run in an oil bath like on engines,,

So Uh, How does the grease stay in with TAPE on one side my friend? Risky...

Wow.. what happened to the paint?! Looks like there has been paint remover slathered over parts of the machine. Great video BTW,

I rebuilt my spindle with the same bearings, but it never ran as nice as a stock spindle. I ran the rebuilt spindle for about a day, then ordered a new one f4om tormach. In my case, the rebuild wax an expensive waste of time, especially seeing how inexpensive a tormach spindle is.

Maybe oil vapor is being drawn to the warm bearings.i should probably just be quiet lol

8000RMP grease will be thrown out,,I don't understand how they make spindles like that,,anyone with rotation in their head can see that it won't be there very long

Spacers and shaft compete with in 0 micron level then the spindle is running long time

Should be shielded bearings, not sealed. The surface speed is to high for sealed bearings.

Make a labret seal

Bearing not impact hammer Because not good Assembly with bearing induction

Good explanation, a shame on china made

The paint on the mill is awful, being stripped by presumably coolant, should be a two pack epoxy paint, but looks like a one pack synthetic, shocking for a reputable machine manufacturer. The loose paint flakes will get into all moving parts.

OMG ! and 17:38, you just tightened them together and "gave it a little extra"..... DON NOT run your mill until you redo your spindle. No wonder your bearings are failing ! These bearings are expensive, I use them too, you may have already ruined them....

super cheap and crappy design of these spindles I must say