I owned one of these for many years. This one was for my daughter. It will do a great job on powder snow do7.pl/toro however deep, as long as you stay ahead of it. Very reliable and well built. Since it is electric It also eliminates any starting issues or the need to store gasoline. The downside is heavy, wet snow.

Your snowblower should last a good number of years the way you take care of it. It was a very informative video and thank you for posting it.

I've always just added an ounce of Seafoam to the gas, ran the engine a while so the gas gets thru the carbs, then shut off the gas at the tank and let it run out of gas in the carb so it drains. I make sure the tank is always full if it's a steel tank like a motorcycle. And they always start up like they were just shut down in the spring. I've been doing this for 39 years with not one carb problem and never cleaned a carb since.

This video help me get my machine back up and running thank you for taking the time to make this video!

Like said before , take out the bolt just below and to the right of the oil fill hole. That's the oil drain plug beside the numbers. 121 -4228

Great video, well presented. Mike

I stabilize premium non ethanol fuel and leave the tank full all summer long on my Cub Cadet 2X 26". I feel that it protects the gaskets to remain full. I do try and briefly run the engine for a few minutes monthly on cool mornings keeping in mind that the blower oil is very thin. I follow the same full tank storage with my Generac GP2200i inverter generator .. also run that unit monthly. In the fall season, I siphon both tanks and replace with fresh stabilized fuel prior to the winter. I've never had any carburetor problems on any of my engines from storage as long as I use non ethanol fuels.

decent advice as everyone has their own way. I just run the fuel out on my 2 stroke 210 r. I changed the plug twice in 11 years. That's all besides paddles and scraper. Definitely made the transition to tru fuel as the fuel went bad mid season in a snowstorm. I rather pay more in fuel and have the equipment work than gamble with fuel that last 60 days or less and deal with the shop and be shovelling.

A couple of friendly suggestions: Replace the WD40 with Fogging oil. WD40 will dry out. It’s basically a solvent. Replace the Seafoam with a good fuel stabilizer such as Stabil. Loosen the bottom center bolt on the carb to get all gas out. Don’t spray the engine with water. Asking for problems. Drain the oil by unscrewing the drain plug. That’s why it’s there. Great video!

Informative video and answered all my questions.

Bro, drain oil from drain plug, not from oil check filler

Great video. Thank you !

great video. Thanks.

Should of drained it from the plug in drain pan not fill hole.

This was great thanks...

WD-40 is not oil, and is not close to being the same as motor oil. WD stands for 'water displacement' which is what WD does well, it does not lubricate the same way oil does, and it evaporates rather quickly. WD is 90% mineral spirits, which is paint thinner or charcoal starter liquid. Gun oils are light oils that do lubricate, and they also come in spray cans. 3-in-1 is a light weight machine oil that can be used when you want some lasting light lubrication.

SEAFOAM!!!!

If you are not going to use motor oil in the spark plug hole I would recommend fluid film as it is a much better lubricant than wd-40 , it is also a good rust inhibitor . It has a widespread usage . It can be obtained at Lowes or online , a little expensive but well worth it .

Thanks for the video. But it looks like your snowblower was never used. It was so clean, even before you washed it down.

my fule n oil mix snowblower throwing white smoke have any idea y sir thanks winter get close am trying to fix that problem plz help thanks

great video for me as a first timer to move snow. But, what is the ratio of fuel stabilizer to gas. Many thanks.

I have a Toro snow thrower from 1995 with a 2 cycle engine ( you have to mix oil into the gasoline ) is there oil in the crankcase that needs to be drained / changed ? The entire engine is encased in a plastic cover that I don't know how or if it comes apart. Surely there has to be some kind of crank bearing(s) and connecting rod bearing(s) that need bottom end lubrication. Don't tell me to "look at your manual" because I don't have it and I don't know what model it is. Not checking or changing such oil for 27 years would have certainly caused ANY engine to seize or blow up by now, I would think. My Toro looks the same as the one in this video ( for the most part.) Except the engine isn't readily accessible.

how often do ya change the oil

Another friendly suggestion: get CleanCarburetor kit and remove all the fuel from inside the jets - this is the place where the fuel gums up.

This machine will last you 100 years...