It was a fun build, our 3rd conversion, each bigger than the last. One thing I could say, first thing to do is place the "toys" you plan to haul and work the floor plan around that. I plan on posting more pictures with motorcycles on our next trip!

Thank you. Will be posting some camping trips soon.

absolutely

I made one and the wall(aluminium exterior) be all waved after 1 year with the heat of the sun

@@gabrielnoel-rivard6868 after spray foam?

Thank you. Still adding small things for conveniences.

Thank you.

I believe its a Dometic brand.

Pink 2X4 are pre-cut studs. For an 8' foot wall you have two top plates and one bottom plate. So the stud is pre-cut to 92 5/8". When you figure it out, you can put up drywall for the ceiling and still fit 2 sheets of drywall on the walls - horizontal- 8'

P.S. - they are cheaper than full 8', but be careful when handling. You'll leave pink hand prints everywhere!

Thanks...as a toy hauler, important to leave the back open. Nice and cozy place to sleep.

The materials ran about 5,000 all in. The most expensive cost was the a/c at about 1,000. No labor cost since we did all the work.

I would add no more than 500 lbs. We empty the water heater while traveling. Of course that's not including the removable stuff.

The black water tank is below the toilet. You could use an elbow to connect units. But with a camper style tank you don't get much water pressure on a flush. A direct drop leaves less means for clogs. And easier to fill and rinse tank when emptying.

I didn't know that was an issue at some campgrounds?

Never had a problem with types of trailer accepted at all the State Parks or other campgrounds. I'm not expecting the Ritz, more like a saltine.

The question comes from a discussion I listened to on another KZfaq channel "I Ride" Tiny House Adventures

Not silly at all. Manufacture is Forest River. Continental Cargo Trailer. It is a "car hauler" type trailer that we ordered to our specs. I wanted the door set back to allow the extra space in the front. The frame is super heavy duty for support of heaver loads (car hauler), so working bathroom plumbing was a little tricky, but doable. There is a trailer place near us, "Stringer's Trailer Sales" in Picayune, MS. A mom and pop owned company that we've ordered several trailers from. They deal with the manufacture, who builds to order, no aftermarket tear apart and rebuild. Basically, you can start with a base trailer design and add or change most anything to your need. You give them detail measurements like placement for door, windows, ac supports, ceiling vents and we also removed the beaver tail to flatten the floor throughout. It's only limited by money. We ordered just prior to Covid shutdown and received it after 10 weeks. We even had them install the awning! We've done a 16' and didn't want to tackle a 20'.

Thank you. It's a 8.5 x 24 foot car hauler.

Hey Wayne We insulated the floor with 1 inch ridgid foam. Cut and glued with liquid nails to underside. Cut for a tight fit. Used several times without coming loose.

@@robinwho2883 Thanks. I was thinking about nailing down 1" furring strips on the factory floor at 2ft oc, laying 1" insulating board in between then covering back with 3/4 plywood. I haul a RZR in mine and was wondering if it would support the weight. About 1700lbs. Thoughts?

@@waynevenable1973 With the weight distribution, you should be fine. As long as losing almost 2 inches in head room still works for you.

@@waynevenable1973 I'm NOT an expert, but I'm guessing if you used higher density insulation board (250?) You could skip the furring strips and just used some kind of block at the tie down ring spots. Maybe glue everything down and use long screws at the perimeter? Probably save you some headaches cutting foam boards to fit. Thinking that's what I'll try. Either way, good luck on your build!

Panama City Beach, Florida

It is a 2500 with diesel

8 X 24