Yes, you should always be aware of your positioning to ensure the blade is cutting in the waste.

Thanks for watching!

Great to hear!

Thanks!

Great!

You can do it!

So easy to make and works great! Let me know how it turns out!

Very welcome!

Thanks, glad you liked it!

Awesome! Glad I could help!

Go for it! They work great!

Awesome! Thanks!

That’s the way I did it. I used these jigs for many years until I decided to upgrade to a dedicated track saw.

Thanks!

👍

Thanks! 👍

Go for it! I've used them for years!

@@biscuittreewoodworks Making one is a good option because if I get a Makita one, I'd need to buy an adapter to go with my circular saw as it won't run on the purpose track. BTW, if I want to do a 45 degree or other angle cut as well as straight, I suppose I'd need to make another one for that???

@@steveraleigh100 Yes, you will need a separate jig for beveled cuts.

​@@biscuittreewoodworks I could add a detachable section to the raised guide that moves the saw over enough to accommodate for a 45deg angle, which will probably be the most used.

Thank you!

Go for it!

Thank you!

If you try putting a piece of rubber under the track, it lifts the track off of the wood you are cutting and you no longer have a zero clearance cut. This makes more tear out and is less accurate.

Thanks!

When I use the factory edge to cut off the freehand cut edge, the guide and edge of the jig are now parallel. The ends of the jig can be slightly out of square, but it doesn’t matter since nothing gets referenced off the ends of the jig. The reference point for your cut is always the side where the blade runs.

@@biscuittreewoodworks Got it...thank you very much for prompt reply and explanation !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've been using mine for years!

The measurements aren’t critical, you just don’t want the parts to be too small.

Depends on what side you place your guide on. Put the guide on the side you want to keep and you are cutting in the waste and will get a perfect 3”.

@@biscuittreewoodworks Yup, totally agree. 👍

You put the track on top of the piece you are keeping so the blade cuts in the waste piece.

Sorry, I don’t. At least not yet.

@@biscuittreewoodworks I need one!

@@waterlilly62lori if you have specific questions please let me know! I can help you out or put together a video if it makes sense to. Comment or email me at biscuittreewoodworks@yahoo.com

Most of the time the simplest answer is the best approach!

👍

True, you need to account for the blade kerf or put the track on the keeper piece.

I've used this setup for years. It's very accurate as is!

The sight holes are great because you don't have to look vertically down to long up the guide. Looking from an angle the mark can be obscured. I've tried both and sight holes are leagues ahead for practicality.

The saw can drift away from the guide if you don't keep pressure against the fence. That's no different that using a table saw or band saw. The difference in using a straight edge and these guides is you don't have to compensate for the distance between the straight edge and blade. I can just lay the guide exactly where I wan to make the cut. For me that is a huge improvement!

the track saw has 2 advantages ...you address one ...but the second ...which is the drift (controlled by the track grooves) can be addressed easily too@@biscuittreewoodworks

With this it’s very inexpensive compared to a track saw, especially if you buy one with the saw. Most woodworkers already have a circular saw. With this one keeping some pressure on the saw to keep it tight to the guide isn’t really any different than keeping a piece of wood tight to the fence on a table saw. Now if you’re constantly ripping sheet goods then a track saw might be the way to go. For myself, no more than I rip sheet goods it’s not worth the price to buy a track saw. I have a 4 foot version of this and also a 6’ level and an 8’ aluminum straight edge that works just fine. Of course with just a straight edge you have to figure in the width of the saw plate. A fix for that would be to rip a piece to that width and fasten it to the piece you’re using as the straight edge. Measure and mark the cut. Line up the straight edge with the hinged piece down, clamp it, flip it up and cut. The only thing about having the saw guide on the motor side. If it’s like my saw the motor hits the guide piece when trying to set for a full depth cut. Not usually a problem with sheet goods, but if you’ve built a thick table or such, you might not get it all. That’s where a simple straight edge works well. It just has to be tall enough to keep the saw from riding up on it.

Saw rides against a straight edge and on top of a track, but that’s my opinion. I’ve used these kind of saw tracks for many years and never had a problem with them drifting.

@@biscuittreewoodworks Nah you're making up definitions here. A track has 2 guides, not an edge. It's an overcomplicated guide. You should listen to your audience, many people have said the same thing, you are the only one making up definitions. It's not a track because it runs against a single edge.

@@fryertuck6496 Well, I call it a track since it rides on top of it and not along the side. You are welcome to go make your own video and call your version whatever you like.

The saw rides against a straight edge not on it, and you have to account for the distance between the straight edge and blade. With this diy track the saw rides on it and makes a zero clearance cut, just like a track saw.

@@biscuittreewoodworks it's still not a track saw, just an edge guide.

If you say so. I've never heard it called a slip board, and I even did a couple google searches for that term and not a single result called it that. I don't see how gluing down a cut off piece of plywood is more complicated than drilling, countersinking, and screwing down a piece of angle, but you do you.