Trad Climbing "The Seal" 5.10a/b | Looking Glass Rock, NC

Рет қаралды 3,626

10 ай бұрын

I've always wanted to get on this route after seeing many pictures of it. What I was told would be the crux, ended up being rather easy. As I drew nearer to the anchors the difficulty of the climbing steadily increased. The technical footwork required to negotiate the last 30 feet grew on me but I managed to pull it off. This route was very physically demanding but it was every bit of 5.10a footwork. I'll never get used to the learning curve of NC slab.
#tradclimbing #climbing #leadclimbing #climbing
🔴 SUBSCRIBE HERE: www.youtube.com/@climbingforl...
📸Instagram: @tim.wheat_ / tim.wheat_
Edited and Produced by: Tim Wheatley

Пікірлер: 33

@keithwood6459 7 ай бұрын

When I climbed the first pitch in 1989 the guide book said it was 5.9. It thought it was considerably harder. I felt like a chump, blowing hard on a 5.9. I feel better now seeing it rated 10a/b. I think most people keep their heads out of the big crack and do the burly undercling all the way across that section, making a run for the narrower part and some protection. Few people had the the cams for the wide stuff back then. That's the way I did it. I haven't seen it done your way. Nice job. You're really good with your gear and feet. You should do the second pitch of this route too. It's pretty good and ends at a nice ledge. Double rope rappel from there. Also, NC Slab is great! It's really fun when it finally clicks and you can just walk up 5.9 slab confidently! So fun.

@climbingforlife1 7 ай бұрын

Thanks i really love feedback like this! Its such an amzing route, although i haven't heard great things about the following pitches and when i was doing some aid it looked dirty. Perhaps it may clean up nicely and just needs some love! Apparently theres some hidden jug on the outside of the wide part making it way easier. LOL

@ccolagio_ 9 ай бұрын

still a sub5.9 leader - got to say - the way that you preplan your gear placements (put piece in your hand before youre at the location), rerack cams to the front that you know youll need for an upcoming section, just overall efficiency of placing pro....so smooth! very clean style.

@climbingforlife1 9 ай бұрын

Haha Thanks! If you want any other beta let me know or if you wanna climb sometime shoot me a dm on instagram!

@summitseekersexperience 9 ай бұрын

Nice, glad you made it out to looking glass. FYI, there’s a big jug on the outside of the flake when it opens up at the top you can grab (blind) and avoids using your head in the flake. Maybe I’ll see you out there this fall season, I’m headed to Laurel/Whitesides next week Monday/Tuesday I think.

@climbingforlife1 9 ай бұрын

Ill probably see you. Thanks for the beta!

@danielu1763 2 ай бұрын

You all are missing out on placing nuts and hexes. Lighter, more placements per unit weight.

@danielu1763 2 ай бұрын

I remember leading that in EBs! Rated 5.9 at that time.

@dr.x.8614 9 ай бұрын

Placing the First piece so high indicates great psychological stability 👍👍

@climbingforlife1 9 ай бұрын

Absolutley!

@danielu1763 2 ай бұрын

And allows the next pieces to zipper if it pulls…

@climbingforlife1 2 ай бұрын

bro what hahahahha

@talkaboutwacky 9 ай бұрын

I love the color of that rock. Well done Timmy!

@climbingforlife1 9 ай бұрын

Thanks man!

@256climber 9 ай бұрын

Amazing climb man! I’ve been sport climbing like a mad man! I’m ready for trad and that’s the next step I wanna take! I live in Alabama, hit me up sometime man let’s get some climbs in!

@climbingforlife1 9 ай бұрын

Shoot me a dm on instagram! @tim.wheat_

@rgr195 9 ай бұрын

great job

@climbingforlife1 9 ай бұрын

Thanks!

@user-fm5gz6xm8k 9 ай бұрын

Its like circus circus on steroids.

@climbingforlife1 9 ай бұрын

Yes it is!

@DanielTennison 7 ай бұрын

Dialed great job

@climbingforlife1 7 ай бұрын

Thanks!

@wyattmadson 8 ай бұрын

do you think there was a way to jam in the wide section of the crack? I haven't climbed that route yet, but it looks so cool.

@climbingforlife1 8 ай бұрын

It is so cool. I don't think theres any way to jam in it as its like a foot wide. You'd have to go inverted or something ridiculous.

@wyattmadson 8 ай бұрын

@@climbingforlife1 i have been training for century crack, so maybe its a technique kinda like that. if i go there ill try something

@bonefishboards 2 ай бұрын

Can't be an onsite; too quick with the placements. But, well done.

@climbingforlife1 2 ай бұрын

I promise this was an onsite lol

@evansnipes7473 2 ай бұрын

Lol don't be silly, just cause you can't size gear quickly doesn't mean others can't. I thought he was slow on some placements that were obvious

@climbingforlife1 2 ай бұрын

@@evansnipes7473thank you but also lol

@PitsToPeaks 9 ай бұрын

Did you climb this the same day as me?

@climbingforlife1 9 ай бұрын

Naw twin

@jacqueslamontagne6890 3 ай бұрын

You could slow down a bit... Where's the rush?

@climbingforlife1 3 ай бұрын

Nah its not about moving fast, its about being efficient. Climbing quickly through the easy bits and more slow and thoughtfully through the hard sections is the way to do it.