Hey Trenton, thank you so much for the comment! Don't worry, I will be diving even deeper into this truck. Way deeper lol.

Why thank you kind sir!

It's my pleasure. I know you had a time with yours in the beginning, I just wish I could have gotten these out before you had to do all of that. But, they are here now and hopefully you are learning a thing or two. I know I had a blast on this trans rebuild.

@@RcHelpDotCom It was like a blind man trying to read the menu at McDonald's. With your expert help I got it done. Thanks again.

It's my pleasure. Hopefully you are close or have already got yours running. Mine should be running in about a week if all goes well. Supposed to get some bad weather, and that is the best weather to play with these things in lol.

the shift grub screw will be unique to each truck. You just run it after tuning the engine and adjust the screw until you get the shift point you like. Make sure you are turning the shift screw and not the set screw for the shaft. And the rocking is normally caused by too high of an idle. It is trying to lock into gear, but when it does, it lowers the rpm and the dog falls back into place. Rinse and repeat. www.Rc-Help.com

Not moving could be a few things. Missing teeth on the gears, the pin on the forward/reverse shaft (this is common), the pins on the output shaft, or it can be the slipper is too loose. Come over to the forum and post up a quick video. www.Rc-Help.com

New parts? I said I was ordering silicone grease, but ended up finding some in my tool box that I'm going to use. It's Team Associated Transmission Grease which is black (white Associated grease is for the ball diff, you know, the stuff you use on OWB's lol) so I may end up just going to the store and getting some spray. It's cheap. But all other parts I picked up at my local HobbyTown. If you had something else in mind that you were asking, let me know.

Either the little paw is not slinging out of the 1-2 clutch, or the pin is broke what the paw grabs ahold of. Also check to see if you have the shift screw tightened too far down, this will also cause a no shift situation. www.Rc-Help.com

If you are talking about the idler gear for the reverse side of the transmission, it just screws in. I show it in this series, but I don't think I ever took it out. Best bet is to purchase a used transmission, or even a truck that is completely trashed, that way you have everything inside the transmission. www.Rc-Help.com

All shafts should move freely. There should not be any binding.

I used to. I need to get some more made up.

I had to look it up. This if from the Traxxas site: From the factory the slipper clutch is set for minimal slippage, just enough to protect the drivetrain from shock loads. On slippery, low traction surfaces such as a hard-packed, dry racetrack you may benefit from loosening the slipper adjustment nut to allow for more clutch slippage. This will make the truck easier and more forgiving to drive by helping to reduce the amount of wheel spin. Loosening the slipper adjustment can also improve performance on extreme high traction

I always start out with a very loose slipper clutch and tighten it until I get it where I want. With it a turn out, it will rev to the moon and hardly move, I already know this lol. Just check out the last series when I drive the truck. Slipped like crazy. But I never got around to making a video on complete setup. And to answer your question, there is definitely a difference not only in the slipper of the 2.5 vs 3.3, but also the entire drivetrain. The 2.5 you saw, the 3.3 has a much smaller spur gear with much beefier slipper pads. Like you said, only 3 large pads on the 3.3, multiple little pins on the 2.5 classic (this is all for the 2.5 classic BTW) and the .15.