That bearing vibration analysis is F ing impressive. Good job

That's analysis of bottom brackets blew me away. I'm no tech genius but I could follow your explanation. Much more enjoyable than listening to why the world is tanking. I mean why go to college when I can just watch your videos! Thanks for the work you put in to help people like me. Mahalo and Aloha.

YESS. NEW HAMBINI VIDEO. I love hearing your failure analysis and problem solving. Looking forward to getting one of your parts one day!

O.M.F.G I knew you were good I had no idea you were so blooming amazing. Glad I asked for your assistance. Blown away

Hambini, you're amazing! That sound analysis is wicked science in a good way.

wow what an elegant way to analyse the creak. I have a similar creak on my cannondale bb30, will attempt the same. subbed.

Impressive diagnostic. My experience with this BB is that after one cycling season road grit, dirt, sand penetrates the seal between the bearing and the bearing holder and distorts the fit. Solution is to remove the bearings from the bottom bracket, clean out everything well, grease, and reassemble. The location of the crank makes it essentially a dirt, grit, sand magnet. Cleaning regularly should solve the problem of creaking and extend the service life of the bearing holder.

Amazing Engineering solutions to problems that shouldn't exist. Glad I have a traditional BSA BB (on all my fleet.) Also the bearing analysis (size distribution and stiffness) is great. While it would be great to be able to get a bag of bearings do a size analysis and return the undersized. For me knowing the NSK (NTN difficult to source in Australia) has a very tight size distribution (and excellent stiffness in general) is vindication as to why I use them in all my sealed bearing wheel hubs. Keep up the great work

Brilliant, utterly, utterly brilliant!

Absolutely incredible, just love the tech info and expertise here. My own bike is running smooth as silk since putting NTN bearings in from your good self, I recently returned from a camping trip to Iceland and am contemplating cycling round the country one day, led me to think how I would cope if the B.B. started to creak! Would have to be a Hambini system to avoid issues I reckon 👍

Thank you for this video, you have inadvertently solved the problem I have been having with Campagnolo freehub bearings prematurely failing, the bearings are so tightly pressed in they are being deformed inside the freehub body and of course fail in no time, I have replaced them with Enduro bearings that whilst they we’re not a slip fit, they barely took any pressure to press in, problem solved 👍 thank you again, without this information on bearing size it would not have been possible to solve the problem! 👍

More Hambini! Hooray! :-)

Thank you for going into such detail. 👍

Hambini, your client friend is not out of the woods yet. The longstanding problem with the BB90 is failure of the non drive side bearing due to moisture ingress. This is more an issue with how the frame is shaped in the immediate area around the bearing opening. Typically, water or sweat from rain or water bottles or even the rider, will run down the downtube and seat tube and get funneled down to the non drive side bearing opening and it will slip by the orange dust seal and land right outside the seal of the bearing. Eventually degrading the grease and causing failure due to rust or lack of lube. The drive side doesn't have this problem just due to how the carbon is shaped there. The water will usually run down and around the bearing opening and fall to the ground.

I’m refurbishing a trek madone with BB90 and I was pleased to learn you have a kit on your website. 😁 Then gutted to find they are out of stock. 😟 Please get some more in soon 👍🏻

Another excellent video.

Always blowing minds...

IF any company in the bike business hired Hambini, their credibility and sales would immediately skyrocket. Bike guys, esp racers are technical people who want a mechanical advantage in one way or another.

So glad to see you’re back posting really educational/techy videos rather than just ranty slander (however grounded the comments may be) - it’s what I enjoy, and I believe what sets your channel apart (it’s why I subscribed). Anyone can be an opinionated cünt (#trump) - that doesn’t require intelligence - not everyone can communicate the physics and engineering. Brilliant work. Keep it up.

Thank you. Learnt a lot from your video....

TREK AND EVERY OTHER PRESSFIT BBs WINGNUTS SHOULD HAVE YOU DESIGN THEIR BBs then they would NEVER creek or fail ever !!! Keep up the great videos !!

Great video loved the frequency analysis. Very interesting to see your approach to GXP at 17:40. You may have seen I tried the same approach by freeing the NDS z translation for a GXP crank by stepping up the 22mm to 24mm with a collar and using a normal pf86 BB. I did not like it though because there are still some issues with this design idea (if im not wrong), what are your thoughts on below...? 1. The NDS shoulder sets the chainline. You'll know from Shimano tech docs how anal they are about setting chainline to 100 microns. Even the latest Dura Ace and Ulteg has been shifted by 100 microns. So without locating the shoulder as the datum, how do you set the chainline and q factor relative to the centre line of the frame? 2. And rather more importantly, the NDS shoulder sets the tightening torque of NDS crank bolt. Yes it's a tapered spline but the torque only really starts to build when the crank is butted up on the innner race of NDS. Without the abutment, the soft alu female spline in the crank can over-introduce and completely lunch istelf. Removal and reassembly can then really shag it. Also without using the abutment, what is stopping the bearings being over axially loaded? These are the reasons why i shelved the idea. Would be great if you could let me know your thoughts on why you're going with it. If not on here via PM or something. Cheers!

This vid is from 5 years ago.....how can Hambini be 5 years old!?!?! 😊

Resourceful, wicked smart and funny like nobody. Thanks

Good video. Affirms what I observed. A BEER CAN will work - in case you don’t have a machine shop. In my case, the bearing shoulder was causing creek. You had mentioned a sleeve as a solution. Since I didn’t think I could buy such a thing, I made one. I cut a ribbon of aluminum from a beer can with a razor and straight edge that was the width of the bearing. Given some “research” I found a typical aluminum can wall is 0.102mm. Since thinner is better, you can work the metal with some kind of roller, like an old bearing, and make it thinner. A single ring fit very snugly in my case, but I suppose you could continue spiraling around 1 and a half times to fit bigger gaps. Yes, I can see how that would cause misalignment. My geometry suggests a 0.102mm deflection over 90 mm is probably within tolerance of “Trek” square. Clearly Trek needs to use a metal shoulder here. IMO, it was not worth shedding the grams. I have a 2010 Modone 5.1 with SRAM and ride at least 3000 miles per year. A shop replaced the bearings the first time and it didn’t stop creaking. I got another set of bearings and put my sleeve in. So far so good. BTW, it was the non-drive side that failed. I would be interested to know if this is a hokey solution to preserve a 10 year old bike or if it is close to how a bike engineer would solve this.

you said hole and shaft

Am I understanding this correctly; for GXP, it’s better to have a minute amount of lateral play for the axel? Does that not create wear on the axle?

Hambini, for the loose fit, what some guys are having success with is taking the bearing out and putting a round or two of thread sealant tape on the outside of the bearing, and pushing it into the netmolding. This takes up the clearance needed in many cases to stop any movement. If that doesn't work then they resort to the oversize bearing.

Hambini - great video. I actually own a Trek Damone BB90 and I don’t have a creak but hate the press fit design. I went online to your website and am very impressed with your BB designs. Do you have a distributor in the US or do you ship everything from UK? Great stuff, I’m very impressed and may try one of your bearing sets for my next B.B. change.

That is pretty damn cool you can diagnose their problem by running Fourier analysis on the audio of their video!!! lol

In either case, the Trek BB90 is a perfect candidate for angular contact bearings, as they can tolerate additional side preload and I think that as one of the things this arrangement really needs to keep things from moving around in the netmold.

Hambini, I was wondering what would work with my bottom bracket. I currently have a wheels mfg bb86/92. Which threads together. It’s for a dram gpx crank arm which has 22and 24 mm crank arm. the bike is a trek pro caliber and I’m assuming has a similar bb as it was specked from the factory with a press fit bb I’ve tried to clean everything out and put locktite on the shell and greased the threads and its still creaking everything else on the bike. Would this also be a lose non-drive side bearing or something else wrong with the bb it’s self. Thanks a lot!

another brill video

Would you say the the shimano hollowtech 2 system is superior to gxp?

Excellent video, I have an Emonda SLR which has a mixed bottom bracket bearing from Enduro and HSC ceramics. I’ve been considering NTN bearings now to replace them. Thoughts?

MVP

what bearing size from your website would you recommend for a Trek Madone 2019? I see they all have 25 inner diameter whereas Trek requires 24 with a shimano crankset. Thank you so much

All black fan...big up ..mr Hambini

Hambini, brilliant video! I have a Trek Madone 9 RSL with the dreaded BB90. Im experiencing major creaking issues. I saw online that you can use Loctite to “fix” the bearing into the shim and eliminate the creaking. However after the trialing this I experienced the creaking again after about 1,500 Km. I’ve removed the bearings and they were in a bit of a state. They had rusted a little and the plastic seal over the bearing was slightly deformed. My question is what bearings should I replace them with? I’m not overly keen on spending £££ on ceramics. Also how should the be installed into the BB? With grease? Is the Loctite solution a good idea? What is the life expectancy of properly installed bearings on BB90? My LBS said that they should be replaced as much as tyres and break pads... that seems excessive? Thanks for any help you can give... it’s driving me crazy.

Hi, it seems the problem to the BB90 nightmare is the high precision bearings you supply, except would I know without measuring the bb shell itself. These bearings may be very precise but if the bb shell isn't they may not actually fit any better, is that correct? I dont have to much extra cash so wanna make sure I'm making progress.

Great explanations. I'm also a mechanical engineer (with kind of aeronautical background) and owner of a Trek Emonda SLR8 although it has been a while since I haven't dealt with bearings. I've recently noticed some creaking on my bottom bracket as well, but I'm not so sure it the creaking actually comes from the bottom bracket, because the frame is only a few months old (never ridden in rain). I'm about to replace the bearings with ceramic ones, but still need to think about it a bit. Can anyone advice? Otherwise, why not going for the SKF ones?

Yiur brilliant, should do an update in an england shirt lol. Anyway, can you point me in the direction of a bb90 gxp bb. Also whats your thoughts on retaining compounds from the likes of locktite

Very helpful. Although I own BB30 SPECIALIZED. I guess apply the same

I’m worried. I now have creaking on the bb9O after 3 years . Last time cranks came out swap over the cartridge bearings literally fell out. Is this really bad

How do you buy a bearing at the top end of the tolerance range, does the manufacturer class them or are you going through a whole pile of stock measurung everything?

So with Trek/bb90, would the rider have been best off using a shimano system in the first place? Any thoughts on compatibility and creaking issues running campag ultra torque with bb90? Thanks, very informative video!

Nice work and great explanation. Did you have to buy and measure a lot of bearings to find one at the outer limit of tol.

I can still get a 2019 Domane SL6 (BB90) for around the same price as the new SL5 with the T47. Is it worth getting the T47 even though BB90 has Ultegra?

Hello, On your webpage you write “Installation of this kit must be in conjunction with Activator and retaining compound” what are the best options for this? Loctite 7649 and 641?

I’m “late to the channel”. . . but that big meffer of a bearing you hold in your hands reminds me of some bearings that were replaced in a small airplane I owned. . . Six bearings, which I can not see any problems with. . . but, with aircraft, you really are at the mercy of the “certified” mechanics. But, cutting to the chase, the six bearings were Timken roller bearings, angled races. I wonder why these are not used on bicycles rather than the point contact ball bearings. . .

This was fascinating, thanks. I've just asked my LBS to fit my Quarq power crank which is GXP into a new Trek with a BB90. No idea how they plan to do it so it was really interesting to see your approach and I loved the creak audio analysis. The GXP has another metal & rubber washer on both sides, as well as the wave washer on the drive side, which face onto the bearing inner races - do you keep those?

Hambini's ALIVE!!! The sound analysis of the bottom bracket was very interesting, Thanks for showing that. So, what tolerance does Trek specify for their bottom bracket diameter and do they meet it? what about other manufactures?

Interesting video, I have a trek bb90 with with 37x24x7mm bearings and shimano. It looks like the only option is to replace with Enduro bearings for this size. The NTN/SKS bearings you mention appear to be good in terms of fitting into the shell, but does the internal diameter not need to be 24mm instead of the 25mm in those bearing types?

Hi! Great video! I came here when searching for a problem with my Trek Boone with BB90. I've noticed recently that the crankset (I use SRAM GXP) has a side play, even though everything is well tight. I disassembled the crank and the NDS bearing is a bit loose, I can take it out easily with my own hand. I was told by the mechanic that this is the carbon that is already worn out, and the bearing is loose, and even if I replace it it with a new one, it won't solve the problem...basically he told me to contact Trek for warranty and pray. Do you have any opinion on this? Does the carbon gets worn out in the bearing interface or will a tighter bearing might solve it? Thanks!

What's you take on the Sram DUB BB system? Thank you.

I saw Trek BB90 and swear I was going to hear the word 'shit' at least once in this video.

Great Vid- my BB90 never creaked ( lucky I guess), but I love your highly technical and detailed analysis. Not to hijack the thread, but Aircrash Investigations is my favorite series on youtube. Did you work with the NTSB or on the supplier side? Now your valuable bike analysis makes sense based on your background. Glad to see this stuff on such a technical level. Please keep doing it.

@hambini Would there be am advantage to using 6805LLBP2 over 6805LLB for the bb90? Thanks in advance

Production / Quality Improvement statician Edward Deming is a big part of the reason Japanese industry is know for good quality control / engineering tolerances.

hey Hambini, great video once again. Did you see the new release of the specialized venge? It suppose to use FreeFoil profile in its tubes instead of the Kammtail on the Madone. Do you think is it going to be faster? How about a new aero video?

Perhaps bike companies would be better employing you to design their various systems. I take it the systems arent designed with particular engineering in mind? In your opinion what is the best BB system(s) on the market.

Most excellent shirt... Go the AB's! Cool video analysis as well thanks... :)

What's the actual application of that laser. It was made to measure what please?

Very good that you take the time to share. I had a Giant TCR and it creaked badly and a Colnago C60 which creaked its tits off.. Now back riding a steel colnago with threaded BB and I can ride in silence. Id love a new bike or frameset but what to buy? Is push/press fit here to stay? Can you recommend brands with awesome tolerance and no creak?

Fcukin' Brilliant!

Love your videos. Have you covered T47 yet? I run this on a couple of bikes ( one Ti and 1 steel ). My experience is I still get bearing creak/clicks under load and frequently have to service ( re grease ). I also have enduro bearings which I’m learning, thank you, are not the best. Any perspective on T47?

I don't even care and I watch it!!

What about a creaking Shimano chainset on a bb90?

Hambini, you should try Boca Bearings.

Trek actually sells what they call BB90 v2 bearings with an OD of 37.1 mm (Trek Part Number 428781). Search for "trek bb90 v2 bearings" to find discussions detailing what a nightmare BB90 is.

Which is worse BB 30 or BB 90?

This fix was to put a GXP BB in a BB90 frame. What is the fix if one wants to stick with Shimano?

Not to be an idiot, but what is the actual nearing I.D. for the SKF bearings for a BB90?

I am returning a cheap ANGSI Montbike that was not pro fit geometry, they did not put the proper components that fit and it sounds like the spindle is rocking up and down on the bearings or the bearing cups are loose. Cheap peddles are the first thing to check that have no bearings but after buying MKS the noise was getting worse, the repair shop said the bike is not fit for purpose with no EU/BS standard certification either. COBRA BIKES will refund. I will buy a TREK MARLIN and build it myself with ACERA if possible. 14:25 they renew machine components before they wear out. This is why some housings are loose too with tubes being built with old machinery.

Only just discovered you...you make my brain bleed

Pressed fit bb is ghetto fabulous

On my Felt F5, a AU$1750 bike, came a BB30. This BB started to creek after about 10,000 klms, so I asked the bike shop about it and they said ooh that will cost a lot to fix. Mmm, I didnt want to spend a lot of money on this great bike, so I took this opportunity to do some research on KZfaq and ebay to replace the FSA bearings with ceramic bearings. I bought a set of Chinese bearings on Ebay for $22, a set of BB30 bearing press dollies $9 and a big galvanized bolt for a press. Knocked out the old FSA bearings and pressed in the ceramic bearings. Now just before I put the cranks back in, I thought, if this was a motor cycle you wouldnt put the crankcase together without oil in it, mmm. So I put in about a tablespoon full of cheap penetrating oil. That oil worked a treat, made the bearings very happy and contrary to advise, it never leaked out, and those bearings never creaked again. Low tech solution to a high tech problem. Cheers.

hambini make a 2 piece bb for the trek bb90.

It would be great if you added time stamps to this video.

So am I nuts when I tell you I got my bb90 creak to go away by tightening the skewers? Well thats what happened.

Why don't all manufacturers use an internal sleeve to accomplish perfect hole caracteristics? It's been proven many times over that working with carbon molding is difficult to say the least.

I am going to buy an endurance bike in about 6 months. Trek sl6 with T47 BB doesn't seem to have the creaking isssue of their BB90, according to their website : 'No more creaking. Smooth operation. Fast bearing replacement.' www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/equipment/cycling-components/bike-bottom-brackets/praxis-shimano-t47-inboard-bottom-bracket/p/593089/ at least they're aware of this issue. Has anyone experienced creaking with T47?

Mentioning the "customer's" name at the end is GDPR compliant? :)

All blacks fan?

Pick cartoons for 100 man!!!

Token Ninja Zenith BB solves this problem

Why are you wearing an all black shirt?

GXP. Worst bb format in the bike world.

The more I see his vids the less I get how Trek, Cervélo, etc... charge thousands of dollars for pretty much garbage products. Holly effs

Are you Hambini an aeronautical engineer?… You just need to understand what the industry standard is for any device that incorporates bearings. Sorry for my English. In order to function properly, a bearing needs an adjustment in its housing on both the inner and outer race, and requires being placed or removed under pressure with a press. Only then will a bearing perfectly fulfill its intended function. This does not happen in a bottom bracket whose axle is placed or removed by hand, and soon, whether threaded or not, it will produce clicking, wear and large clearances in both tracks that are impossible to solve, because a toy technology was applied for a bottom bracket. Misalignment has a negative influence, but carbon is not a material that can seat a steel bearing with guarantees a bottom bracket.