An absolutely exquisite repair. You Sir are a true craftsman !

WOW!, You certainly aren't afraid to work on these. It must be your years of clock repairs that give you the confidence. I'm afraid I would end up with a bag full of bits if I tried it. I look forward to next weeks result. David.

Good morning, it’s interesting that when you dissembled the crossing you found a connection that looked to have been poor from the day it left the Factory! As you point it’s a rather complex piece of track and wonder how many were simply thrown away in frustration. I’ve resurrected a few and experimented with bridging some of the connections. But I think a complete rebuild is looking like the way to go watching your video. It looks to go back together really nicely once you have that screw in place and you should have excellent conductivity. I’ve found the railheads on the alloy parts can be quite poor with a surface like somebody’s dribbled icing across the top of them! Just smoothing these down transforms them. But perhaps they shouldn’t have left the factory like that in the first place! Pat Hammonds book indicates that they weren’t a popular item back in the day. He indicates that between 1965 to 71 about 800,000 of each left and right points were made. But during the same period only 70,000 of each left and right diamond crossings were made. Looking forward to seeing them fully reassembled and in action on the next video. Oscar

Not at all long winded. Such a complicated repair and it is obvious you are used to dealing with tiny components. Very informative and useful, for when I manage to find some crossovers. They seem to be hard to find. 😊

This is a fabulous and useful video,thank you. I have managed to ruin more than a few of these with some ham fisted use of a soldering iron but with practise Ive managed to refurbish these sufficiently to use on a layout without fully disembling as you have done but your method is far more thorough. I tend to clean off the brass to alloy/rivet studs underneath and put a tiny bit of solder on to enable better conductivity this is usually successful and I clean off all the brass to steel junctions as you do as tarnishing and corrosion is very common. I thoroughly enjoy reburbishing these and the points , however I now have more diamonds and points than I could ever need for any layout. Maybe its time to sell a few on fleabay. :-)

Once again a wonderfully explained video, like OP in frustration I've in the past "hot wired" ,due to poor running over these crossovers... It'll be interesting to see if mine where Friday afternoon Jobs....Thanks again

I can't thank you enough for this video. I have a bunch of these which are not working and are kind of intimidating to disassemble. The initial design is poor considering how well thought out just about everything else Triang ever produced.

G'day Mr Snooze, enjoying learning from your very entertaining videos. I have a layout of sorts with Triang Series 3, Dublo tinplate 3 rail, Trix twin bakelite 3 rail, and a double DCC/DC line all on a round the wall unscenicked layout. In Australia, it seems to be quite difficult to source series 3 track especially points and the points I have are derailing and/or not isolating the track selected. The video you produced on your super 4 point upgrade doesn't seem to be included with the current selection and I wondered if you could give a link to it as dismantling and repairing super 4 shouldn't be too different to series 3 and I could use all the help I can get. I started with second hand Triang as a schoolboy in 1957 and in my dotage, am really enjoying watching and emulating the pleasure you are obviously getting from your vintage trains. Long may you continue. Regards, Jim from country Western Australia.

Disassembling a large amount of track (I found some 350 buts in the loft!) Seems a lot of hassle, especially the points which as you nite are fragile. What I will try is to derust the track *with the rails in situ* using evaporust .. I will remove the cardboard insulation tab from points to avoid that soaking in evaporust but otherwise.. just leave the steel rails on situ ?

Hi There Mr Snooze Have just recently started watching your channel and have enjoyed watching your videos of the renovation of Super 4 track. I have some Super 4 that I am currently trying to restore and wondered if you could tell me of a good source for compatible replacement fishplates? Many thanks