Not sure if you mean your compressor because the alternator should be direct belt to engine. I really cant stop unless you belt breaks off or it will lock up and the belt will squeal till the friction breaks it off

Debbie Smith do you get any codes on your display ? Could be, fan related, or low refrigerant.

Debbie Smith I have the same on one of my trucks. Not only doesn’t my compressor shut on and off, but it squeals very load when it comes on

@@nrwktruog It's the belt when its squeals.. 4 sure .. replace it and make sure its not rubbing the large wheel that is spinning , if its touch there you will get the sound. Adjust the belt to the left grooves. The coolant issue.. on the rear of the cab you will find a round shape cylinder, on top it has a tiny window, shine light though it , you should not see any white , just clear as the liquid is passing thu .. if u see white just add some basic refrigerant where the compress is located. These should fix your problems.

If the compressor kicks off and never kicks back on then that's a problem cause its normally cycles between on and off periodically. If you got no codes it can be several things. A faulty pressure switch or pressure switch harness or wires that go to the switches that have rubbed down with vibration. Low/high refrigerant(most common). Even a failing compressor that when starts to heat up after some minutes leaks from the high to low pressure side. Causing a pressure spike or drop. There can even be some electronic control board problem,but I doubt it since u get no codes right? I probably need to put a/c manifold gauges and check the pressure on high and low side. Dont remember what the acceptable ranges are for most apu but you can find a service manual from thermoking online for free if you search for it. If your are not comfortable working with this type of equipment or dont own it an a/c shop may be the best bet in this case unfortunately. But definitely check the wires and harness to the pressure switches. There is a way to test the switch its self with a multimeter in the ohms setting but again refer to the manual for the acceptable values and ranges for that apu. Its can also be a blockage causing the pressure switch to trip. Like a faulty expansion valve. I would check the harness and pressure switch first make sure they are good (a multimeter is cheap if u dont have one) then if that checks out ok put gauges to it to see if it's missing refrigerant or has pressure abnormalities.

You have a short circuit somewhere but its impossible to say where without actually diagnosing you specific truck. All I can advise you is to follow as many of the cables that have to ti with you apu and see if they are worn down and shorted out. Burn Mark on cables or near them is a good indicator or where they come in contact with other metal pieces where the may rub and wear down the cable with the vibration of the truck. Also it can be a shorted out component like the compressor clutch electronics for example, that makes the fuse blow. Or the blower motor is shorted or stuck somehow maybe. A bag or other stuff can get in there and stop it from moving. Or it can just be a "computer" or circuit board issue that is causing that problem in that case it gets extremely complicated to really know for sure

@@diyitall2023 gracias thansk Eric is new machin only 950 horas alternador is new.

Any idea where the 3amp fuse wire goes to , found my wire broken , don't see where it goes it