Whenever you come across a tough nut to bust or on any threaded item that is too tight to turn, try tightening it up just a wee bit first. This will break the bonds that are holding the threads in place and undo any seizing up between the two metals, allowing you to unscrew most any threaded connections with relative ease.

I truly enjoy your how to videos, very down to earth and easy for an at home mechanic such as myself to follow, you've saved me so much cash that I feel I should get you a beer or something!

There are brass jaw caps made by Wilton that are designed to avoid marring the surface of your workpieces. Shop rags help minimize the damage fairly well too.

This video was really helpful as the threads in my crank arm are stripped and my crank puller is not of much use. Thanks!

i never thought of keeping the locking ring on the edge so to simplify the removal, thanks for that very useful tip...

Another quality video! I really like how not only do you show how to do things, but also explain why. Thanks!

great job on the video and I just saw that it's from 2013.. how the years fly by I'll have to check out your other videos. just got my first mountain bike used from a family member and haven't worked on bicycles in about 20 years. Giant Warp Ds2 with front and rear suspension. wish me luck maybe I'll make a video. Tom from NJ

You should really protect items when they are in a vice. Easily done with soft jaws or even cloth or rags wrapped around the work piece. No need to damage the crank's surface or its finish. I have been working on bikes for 35 years and would never allow a vice to leave clamping marks. Thank you in any case for the video.

Always keep chain on big/outer chainring to protect your hands in case the tool slip. Chainring teeth (especially worn sharp ones) can slice open knuckles. Also, I like to use a wrech to lightly tighten down the extractor tools into the crackarm just to ensure threads are fully engaged.

Very nice videos you got here, you take your time explaining, they are HD, whole process, and no music. Thanks man!

Thanks for the video. I like to watch your videos because you explain in detail and the camera takes are clear. Also your use of alternative ways to do the job is great. Right now I have a big play in my chainring and I don't see how they are attached to the crank spider. No bolts to be seen. I'll try to get a crank pooler tool and have a look at it. Any idea of how the chainring is attached to the crank?

Excellent vid, presentationand editing. Was looking for instructions on an old style 3 piece BB

first i would like to say a big thank you for doing a video on how to deal with those threads on the left hand pedal this is my problem solved now thanks to you and the demonstation video was simple and perfect to follow :)

Thanks so much for this tutorial video. My drive side hex bolt sheered off inside the cartridge and my crank arm fell off in the middle of the road on the way to work. I went and bought the tool you use and all went smooth to get bike back in action. I owe you a beer

THANKS ALOT MY FRIEND I ALWAYS NEEDED TO KNOW HOW TO DO THIS CAUSE IM A WINTER RIDER TO AND KNOW HOW BAD THAT CAN BE TO MAINTAIN WITHOUT PROPER KNOW HOW... THANKS AGAIN AND KEEP UP THE GOOD VIDEOS... :)

I'm new to your channel, but finding it very informative. Many thanks and please continue the good work!

Very Good! well explained and good demo, appreciated. Thanks.

Well done. Explained for the common person and with accessible tools.

Hey thanks cj. Great trick. was having this exact issue with the left crank arm and want to throw the whole bike off a cliff.

I'm not familiar with SKS fenders specifically, but I've had lots of experience putting fenders on my own bikes. Are they similar to the fenders that I have on this bike? These ones are really easy to install, they just bolt on in 3 places and I've never had problems with them coming off.

Small world! Bike repair is a cold-weather thing, so I'm back at it. Nobody wants to work on a crank while ferns are still wagging in a warm breeze (I'm one of those binge-fix-and-then-neglect types). So here I am watching some refresher bike repair vids, and I remember the guy in the video! Greetings from the other side of the lake, and thanks.

Thank for the video, can you do the other side? I used that crank removal tool and it did not work and striped the thread on the side with the gears...ans suggestion? before i get my 9" grinder out? TIA

Great tutorial as usual. BEST BIKE TUTORIALS ON KZfaq!

so cool of you to make this video for someone who was having problem with theirs

Good trick. For those who don't want to mar their cranks with the vise jaws they can put a thin piece of wood between each vise jaw and crank face before tightening the vise. I always keep a few new or even used wooden paint stirrers around so I can break one in half to shield my work from the vise jaws.

what kind of bike repair kit do you recommend for a starter? been shopping for one with a chain breaking tool. plus those tools you used to get that separated peddle bikes. but ya ur awsome man. been rewatching ur videos. I got into bikes since I bought a bike tow leash for my dog and riding means alot to us now. going to bike class 29th.

Thanks cj....good alternate way to remove a stubborn crank arm....

Awesome video thanks for sharing

Are you referring to the lock-ring hook tool? You can definitely buy those through any bike shop.

simply use some 'soft jaws', pieces of wood, or rags between the crank arm & vise jaws, & you will not have teeth marks on your parts

This was actually really freakin helpful!

Thank for video! Resolved my problem with hammmmmmmer. 👏

I just decided to keep my 1 peice crank. A friend of mine has this problem and this helped. He is getting a new crack and crank sprockets. He wants at least a 52 tooth sprocket and this is the best time to do it. He has trouble keeping up with me with his 48 tooth and I laugh cause I slow down for him. I just pedal fast and I can keep up the fast pace with my 48 tooth. He might go faster than me now. Thanks for the video. :)

I don't have any recommendations in term of tool kits. For my collection of tools, I just bought each item when I needed it. However, I'm sure with a kit you'd probably get better value, although you may end up with some tools which you'll never need. One of the best (though most expensive) brands in bike tools is Park Tool, maybe you can find a kit from them. Otherwise I would just recommended buying your tools individually by getting them ordered at your local bike shop.

Hey mate will a normal ratchet work or i have to buy the tool that you have ?

I have never been in that situation before, so I have never attempted it myself. However, you should potentially be able to use the same trick on the other side if you can loosen off the fixed cup on the drive side. However, depending on how many chain rings you have on your right crank, there might not be enough room to fit a wrench in there to grip the fixed cup. Give it a try and let me know if you are able to do it!

you could have used heavy duty rubber to hold the crank in the vice grip.

SIR where did you score that tool? Will it remove all bottom brackets? I just purchased a kit to repair a 1974 Schwinn 20 inch BB, watching your heads up video I will need that extractor tool.

Thank you!

very good tutorial

That guy is simple and to the point, just perfecto. I was thinking I need too many tools to open the crank. I wonder the tool he used to open the crank, is it universal or cranks are of different sizes or vice versa thanks

Great idea my road bike chainset right and side is recked will try that way cheers

To quote another viewer, "Great tutorial as usual. BEST BIKE TUTORIALS ON KZfaq!" I borrowed a crank puller and I'm gonna clean my bike

This video was very helpful, thanks maaan

Better to use a long bolt that actually screws into the threads of the axle to knock it out. No risk of damage to threads then. And as someone else mentioned some wood packets when you put it in the vice will minimize the vice graze . Cool video

Forgot to add my daughter was riding the bike and pedal started rubbing on frame after attempting to secure it ball-bearings fell out and this is why I ask thanks for your help

That was very ingenious, thanks. I will use that technique in the future.

Is that a tool you made, or where can we buy something like that?

Do you think a sealey ak380 would remove a crank as my bottom bracket is a Isis and has splines,so the tool with a tooth on it won,t work

Excellent video, thanks.

Groovy! Thank you.

Thanks for this tutorial video sir , it was very helpfull for my crankset set up hehe God bless ♡

love your video mate!

good video!. I have a different problem,i cannot remove my fixed cup cone on the right hand drive side. It's really stuck!!! I do know it's left hand thread,so off clockwise.

Thanks for the usefull video!

can you use this method on the drive side of the bb as my threads have stripped and this method is the best that I have seen.

Excellent!

Very helpful!

Good day sir nice vid, may I know where did you buy that 3in1 crank puller ty..

good video buddy very helpful

that multi tool is sick

Great vids. Do you do service on other peoples bikes, and where are you located ? My bottom bracket is making lots of noise and I have none of the tools or equipment you used. Cheers.

Thank you 🙏🙏

Good job.

Great video and excellent information. I have 2 comments. A day or two before doing this procedure, applying some penetrating oil to the area may help a great deal. And #2: That "hook" tool you referred to is called a spanner wrench. That's my 2 cents. Thanks again for a good teaching video.

my puller threads all the way just fine but no matter how hard I push the the puller end, the crank just won't budge. is there something else I am missing?

Thank U for video

You are good thanks

thanks. very good

Great accent, great help, great video, thanks.

I leave the bolt in and loosen it just a couple turns in order to protect the threads from any objects getting pushed into it. After the shaft is loose, then unscrew the rest of the way.

what size is the spindle?

it was very informative video: A suggestion: To pull down the axil that you did with the vice, use wooden log (rather than using metal rod) to place on axil and hit with hammer, it wont damage the hole of for the bolt, 2nd to avoid marks of vice jaws you can place cloth or two wood plates b/e axil and jaws.

My fixed cup is welded on it's only 3mm wide and I can't install UN-26 BB...guy at LBS used fixed cup spanner 36mm wouldn't budge....he said welding heat is the only way to remove....I did see Sheldon brown use a M5 bolt or setup similar

if you wanted to, could you measure your bottom bracket shelf and install a better external threaded bottom bracket for any crank set assuming the crank and bracket are comparable with each other ? I have a old "lockup bike" and Id like to at least put some better quality stuff on it.

There are two crank arms on a bike, but only one crank. That's a great trick for cup/cone bottom brackets, but will not work for sealed units.

i have a crank that has twonuts on it instead of bolts -how do i take off with out the crank remover

YOU ARE A GENIUS SIR THANK YOU

What to when the crank threading has worn out. Any tension on the puller and it just falls out.

There is a way of complete non destructive disassembly without the "special tool " which will work on even the most severely seized crank arms. Unscrew the non drive side bearing cup. Now take a shaft of a pedal to use as a punch and hammer the drive side of the crank axle (spindle) the drive side crank is now removed. (make sure the spider is aligned to the bottom bracket while hammering) To remove left crank from the axle , use a lug nut or similar sleave to place on ground. position the left arm over it and hammer the inside of the arm while protecting it with a 2x4. The sleave must fit inside the arm hole and another object like a lug nut or bolt must interfere with the axle. if this does not remove left crank arm THEN using a heavy piece of pipe or tubing that fits around the bearing cup and contacts the inside of the left crank. place the piece of pipe vertically on ground, then place a heavy bushing or socket inside the large hole on the left crank arm to guide a heavy bolt onto the crank axle. then hammer the bolt while holding the other end of the crank arm with your left hand (pedal end). This will work extremely well. Your pipe must fit relatively flush with the crank arm to prevent cosmetic damage. The bushing protects the larger threads on the crank arm and holds the bolt while you use your right hand to hammer the head of the bolt. pipe i used is 5" 1/4 inches long. outside diameter is 1" 5/8. the inside diameter is 1" 3/8 with a wall thickness of about 1/8 " inch or 3mm. The bushing is 1" inch long. with outside diameter 3/4" inch. inside diameter 1/2" inch and a wall thickness of 1/8" inch or 3mm. Bolt i used is 1" 1/2 inch long with 3/8 wide threads. obviously the bolt must clear the bushing and the square taper hole inside the crank arm. If you need a heavy duty pipe similar to above check homedepot for natural gas pipes and/or fencing tubing.. these should be carried in the above size.

Would this be a good trike to do if u don't have a crank arm remover tool at the start for either arm? I'm new to having to do work on bikes..

Hopefully will help be me do this with new bike .it just keeps coming loose /wobbly when riding .constantly keeps losing up 🤦🏻‍♀️ tried everything.can you help please.

Viorel Agocs has asked the same question, but I do not see an answer or video posted to explain how to do the other side... But what if the threads are damaged on the right crank arm (spider), and you can't pull that out with the crank puller?

But what if the threads are damaged on the right crank, and you can't pull that out with the crank puller?

How you know what size pulley you need for the square taper that you taking crank arm off of? I was thinking it must be a universal size cuz some tapers I researched are round I believe.

You are perfect to be part of Part Tool. 😊

Even using a cloth in the vice would have stopped that from happening. Most vices also have rubbery guards that come with them. Its not hard to avoid damage from a vice. What you really need to be careful about is not warping your crankset, especially on a K-MART special, like sunrace.

what crank puller brand/name are you using?

Hey were did you get the crank puller from. I need one of those

I would like to know about the nut that's on the other it has two flat spots and I'm having issues with what is the trick to removing it

Hi Where Can I buy this crank remover 2:22 Thx

respect

Hey, I have a problem with my roadmaster granite peak bike. I'm trying to remove the chainrings but I don't have a crank puller. I tried hammering off the chainring from the other direction. It's not coming off and I need help.

i would just put two pieces of wood on either side of the crank arm when it is in the vice to prevent the metal scarring that was shown to happen upon the crank arm in this video

Had it been the other side that was hard to remove could you have used the same method? I would have protected the Crank arm with a cloth or piece of old rubber inner tube.

Hi How long the life of the spindler and bearings last ? Thanx

give it a couple whacks using a tie rod/ ball joint separator (six bucks harbor freight) then your fancy shmancy crank puller should work. Great video thanks.

where do you get the crank puller from? where can i buy one?

my arms of my bottom bracket spindle are bent down, can i change it out from another bike??

i have a supercycle phantom 29 and im trying to know what kind of bottom bracket replacement it is size etc. Any idea?