@@rationalrevoltable Thank you, my pleasure!

My pleasure!

My pleasure!

So glad to hear!!!

Thanks! My pleasure!

Thanks, glad it helped...

So glad to hear!!

My pleasure!

My pleasure!

Thank you koolguyinplano ! I appreciate the kind words!

My pleasure!

My pleasure!

Thank you!

Thanks! I hope the best for you!

My pleasure!

Thank you Sheila, I'm glad it's helpful!

Thank you! So glad it helped!

Thank you!

Our pleasure!

My pleasure!

My pleasure! Agreed, sounds like u have a bad wire or connection.

@@sprinklerrepair4L Yeah, I'm pretty sure it's a wire problem. I don't have a tool to check for where it might be broke, but definitely not getting voltage (or any resistance) out to the box (on any conductor). It's a pretty straight shot, so I'm assuming maybe my garage or the ground settled? I don't know other than it's weird LOL.

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thank you!

Our pleasure!

My pleasure!

F Guerrero thank you!

Thank you, my pleasure!

I use 18g, I the fluke 323… the separate meter only if you have a specific need to know

My pleasure!

Thank you!

So glad it help!

I had a question about my system wiring. I feel like the install company did it backwards. The common runs all the way around the house hitting every solenoid before going to the master valve. So if I have any solenoid out, I have to find before the master will work again…..correct?

I’m in NTX too

@@ianmcalister8172 some times there are multiple commons. Sometimes you can see that in the controller box, but sometimes they are spliced in your yard. Bottom line is it all depends on how it was wired. Principles are the same but troubleshooting is more difficult.

@@sprinklerrepair4L every solenoid I’ve tested following your video has be 0.00 ohms (5/11). Replaced those 5 and just picked up more to finish testing other 6. I truly appreciate your video and responses!

My pleasure!

My pleasure!

Thank you for the kind words Dabber!

Thank you!

My pleasure!

I always start at the controller by checking the ohms. It should run between 20 and 60. If that is good my next check is the AC To check if the controller is giving AC when it should. Once you’ve done both of those you’ll have a better idea of what’s going on. I hope the very best for you.

Thank you!

Yes, you can do it!

@@sprinklerrepair4L Any tips you want to share with us :)

@@RajRaj-ib2pz The first thing I advise homeowners when considering drip irrigation for their foundation is to speak with a professional about proper watering for your home based on drainage, water flow, sun vs shade, or any other specific concerns on your property. By professional I mean a structural engineer or other foundation experts. It may be that your property requires different amounts of water around your house. If that’s the case you will need more than one valve installed. Secondly, I would suggest that you find where your mainline and wiring runs so you can put your new valves in the most efficient place to save on time/money/labor. Finally, I’d suggest using the proper valves (with pressure regulator & filter), drip line to include not exceeding manufacturing specs on how long to run the drip line without an additional header or feeder line, and install flush valves. Hope this helps!

@@sprinklerrepair4L - Thanks a lot

The master valve is usually the first one wired and then each other valve has a common going into it and out of it including the last one that goes all the way to your controller.

Usually 1 of the zones has failed mechanically and needs the guts replaced. Evert once in a while the controller is giving ac to both at the same time.

@@sprinklerrepair4L thanks for reaching out. I opened all bleeder ports and unscrew the valves all the way.and it appears to have solved the problem...I noticed one valve had a loud buzz sound when the pump began to cavitate, but went away after I primed it once water started moving through and I backed out the valve stem a little

It sounds like you’re talking about a Master Valve. If so, you’ll have a wire in your controller named MV or P (for pump)

You can check and see if the controller is giving both zones AC. If not it is probably a mechanical failure of the zone not getting AC. If the controller is giving AC to both zones then it’s a Controller issue. I hope the very best for you.

@@sprinklerrepair4L Thanks for such a quick response, could be as I am also living in Keller 😀. I have a multimeter so will start checking the controller and zones first, but seriously, if it outside my very limited knowledge I will call you. Thanks again

As long as UL rated for burial…

If you know where the valves are, you should be getting pretty close to the same ohms in the field as you do at the controller. When 2 valves are wired together you will get ~1/2 the ohms at the controller, but not in the field as you are measuring the solenoid directly. This will help you determine if you have 2 valves wired together. Just the one head popping doesn't make much sense to me though. If they were plumber together some how, I would thing both would pop up and the same with wiring. I hope the best for you!

What would be the result if someone spliced a common wire to a station wire?

@@benwilmarth5473 not sure I understand. In most cases the common is spliced to every valve unless it’s the first or last in a series.

I’m drumming up the scenario that someone who didn’t understand how power & commons are spliced together throughout the network mis wired and how that would affect & we would go about Troubleshooting a scenario like that. It would be cool to show it on that same video

It does need insulation on it to keep the wire from corroding. I would replace any bare wire with new wire.

If you have a multimeter, and you are measuring ohms, when you cut a wire, you will know which one it is.

@@sprinklerrepair4L Thanks for the reply. When I dug up the in ground valves, the wires were already cut and mixed up. How can multimeter tell which is which?

@@silk8188 if they were still hooked up, you would measure ohms and then, when you cut the wire, the ohms would go to zero. You can use a stationmaster to send a signal down the wires to determine which ones they are as well.

You bet!

Sounds like a valve issue. I'd try replacing it or replacing the guts to see if that resolves the issue.

Just unhook your zone 2 wire and put it in your zone one slot with zone ones wire. Make sure to turn zone one on to make sure you have the pressure to water effectively.

It sounds like you have a bad wire. If you measure ohms at the controller you should get between 20-60. If it's open (reads 0) then it's either a bad solenoid, bad connection or broken wire somewhere between that zone and the controller. It's pretty common to see "burned" looking wires but doesn't necessarily mean the wire is bad. You'll have to take ohm measurements at the controller and then the solenoid to determine what is happening.

Sorry I’m not a pump guy.

Jorge Salazar it’s one the common and 1 on the zone you are testing at the controller. When testing a valve solenoid it’s none on each wire and it doesn’t matter which one.

So grateful that you answered this in the comments. I had the same question about which wires I'm supposed to touch when probing. Thank you!

Sorry I don’t have that set up any longer.

Sounds like the controller is doing it's job, but that's not the issue. If the controller is doing it's job, then it's probably the solenoid, bad wire or connection, water supply issue, or a mechanical failure of the valve. Since none of them are working, I'd guess it's bad wire or water supply. Next step is to take ohms on each zone (which should be 20-60). That will tell you if you have a wiring issue.

If I am understanding correctly, you just need to disconnect the rain sensor from the controller and make sure you have a jumper in there. Put the common from the field back into the common designation and make sure the sensor wire is out and you should be good until you repair the rain sensor. Most all of them are wireless now so you won’t need the wire. Hope the best for you!

If you have ohms & ac, then change the guts out. Probably a bad diaphragm

Yes one goes to the common, and the other goes directly back to the controller in the space noted as MV, pump or P

Yes for the ohms test, but you have to turn the zone on to check AC.

If you have good ohms at the valve boxes in the ground, but do not at the controller, it means that you have a cut wire or wires (or bad splice but you redid those) somewhere between the controller and the valve boxes. The best thing to find this is a Valve finder. Not sure where you’re located, but here in North Texas we can rent them at different irrigation supply stores. I use longhorn irrigation in Grapevine and I know they rent Valve finders. I hope the very best for you!

@@sprinklerrepair4L Not sure if this make sense but I decided to reset the controller then I check back for ohms reading and I was able to get them on all of the zones connections, but still sprinkler didn't come on, that was after a few hours later when my wife told me they were on. I was able to change zones but noticed that some of them were not stopping. I am going to change all the solenoids and try it again. Thank you for getting back to me so quickly and thanks again for your videos. I just moved to Georgia and reason for my troubleshooting.

well the reason for not stopping was because I program the zones to run multiple times, I have a Hunter Pro-C unit. Thanks again

Yes it is

If you have a master valve, Many times it is a different color like black or blue, it Hass to go to the right one. The other one that Hass to be in the right place is the Common. My guess is the Carmen, which is usually white, but you can look in your controller and see what color it is, is the issue. But that’s just a guess…

Yes, it’s normally installed on the outlet side

Agreed

That is a Rainbird set up for drip that comes with a pressure regulator and filter. While the other zones may have been designed for higher pressure, the drip must be regulated. Did that answer your question?

@@sprinklerrepair4L but can i put pressure regulator after zone valve and not in main fold line

@@sprinklerrepair4L i also have same rain bird pressure valve/filter 40 psi but i have installed after zone valve which then connect to drip line for foundation

@@RajRaj-ib2pz agreed, I put it on the outlet side when I'm installing. This one video was just focused on the wiring aspect, but I should have it the other way.

@@sprinklerrepair4L thank you , i have learned a lot from video and i was just making sure i am not doung anything wrong, pls keep posting these videos , you are a great help for people like me who do DIY. Thank you and god bless you

Yes, I’m in Keller Tx. We are currently booked out until 7/31/23 though…

You can buy them on Amazon. Just make sure you search for proof versus resistant.

USA Made - (2-Pack) Waterproof Direct Bury Wire Cable Splice Kit (3M), 18-10 AWG, Low & High Voltage - 600V Max (UL Approved) (2) a.co/d/651GcL4

@@sprinklerrepair4L Thank you so much!

It means continuity isn’t good…maybe a bad connection if that zone isn’t working.

​@@sprinklerrepair4L I got the zone working at the panel. It doesn't say short anymore. I honestly can only locate one valve box

Beep usually means continuity. This means either a bad connection in the valve box, a bad solenoid, or bad wiring somewhere between the controller and the valve in the yard.

When it's not working, I would check to see if the controller is giving AC. If not, it's a controller problem. If you have good ohms at the controller and the controller is giving AC, then it's probably the valve and needs to be replaced or replace the guts if possible.

@@sprinklerrepair4L thanks a lot!

Does it have a master valve? If so you may have bad valves and they come on automatically turn in the other zone on.

@@sprinklerrepair4L no master valve. There's water in the manifold at all times. In this particular case, the customer states the system was installed 2 years ago. If either stations 1, 5 or 6 are turned on at the controller, all three valves open.

Did you check to see if the controller visit AC to all of those at the same time?

@@sprinklerrepair4L controller working properly (Rachio)

Have you tried removing the wires from the controller to see if they come on? If so then there is no electrical component and maybe they have been plumbed together…