This reminded me to thank you for helping me choose a Ridgeline several years ago...I wasn't sure it would handle pulling my 755 effectively, but watching you hauling around the original Johnny helped me realize it was probably the best choice for me. It's not had a single problem in 40k miles, and has been to the dealer one time for the hood recall. Safest midsize with the most room for my family, got 31mpg on a 10 hour trip a few weeks ago, and boy it rides nice.

Ok I have 2 Trailers. I have a 20’ dovetail flatbed that I carry my 40 hp Tractor 🚜. It has 2 7lb axles. The other Trailer is my new 6x12 dump. 2’ sides. Works very well. The bad part is my Dump Trailer is not big enough to carry my Tractor so I have to make one trip to the job with the 20’ to transport my tractor then come back and get my dump trailer, load it, do the job then take it home, switch trailers then go pick up my Tractor. A lot of moving around but I enjoy it. Plus I’m very thankful to have my equipment.

💥 For the price of those trucks they should come with an onboard mechanic. Love the trailer. *Keep on tractoring!*

I agree with you Tim. Everybody will always say one is better than the other... trucks, tractors etc... They all have their good and bad, and the thing is they never break down when they're sitting in the garage or the machine shed!

An After thought for linking/tying the goose neck frame to the box of the dump box Maybe piece of "C" channel welded ( or held in place with the Bolt On "D" Rings on the inside ) facing DOWN across the OUTSIDE TOP FRONT of the box Box and a piece of "C" channel welded to the 5th Wheel frame facing UP. Maybe use 1/4" square tube notched in small areas to drop over "C" channel attached to the 5th wheel framework? The piece attached to the outside front of the Box would displace any force by the tractor evenly across the sheet metal from the outside and not tear out the sheet metal. Then figure out a similar tie down mount at the rear of the dump box No more climbing inside for the tie down "D" Rings. Or for now attach Chains with Clevis's to Your existing "D" Rings that Reach where they need to go but can be hung or tied to the top rail of the Box.

They are very very expressive and you expect them to work!...I couldn't have said it any better!!

Tim, I am on my second Ram since 2004. I have had none of the issues with them that you seam to have with your Ford. I live in Indiana too and no rusted out fender wells even on the '04 at 14 years of age when traded up. JMHO and experience.

I switched to gas trucks years ago because of the issues with the newer diesels and the gas job tows my 14k dump trailer fine. I have a bwise dump and I’m so so on the paint. I have the low side trailer so it’s easy to tie it down from the outside. My grandfather would always have some cut oak planks to load his backhoes on the 20ton trailers because it would hit too so I do the same thing with the little one.

All makes of trucks problems some more then others. Your right about the the older rams rusting, my 09 just started. They put foam in between the bed panels above the wheel wells and it acts like a sponge and holds everything even though I washed it after every storm since new. Thankfully my 18 ram doesn’t have that. But I think they all make trucks to complicated with too many bells and whistles that make them less reliable. I’d be happy with a new truck with the just the bare basics like in the early 2000s.

My 1st Ram 2500 I kept for 10 years (about 16.5K miles - yes correct), but rust was an issue. My 2nd Ram 2500 I still have, going on 10 years now, and have just a little rust on the front and rear bumpers, but otherwise been a pretty good truck (this one has over 33K miles). Running in the North East, lots of salt on the roads in the winter months. But, you are correct.. Very Expensive to buy a new one now.

I started with fords for my business ( with lots of issues)and changed over to the ram brand in 2009. while they are not perfect as any vehicle isnt it is way better reliable the fords had been. last year I bought my first gmc and have had a trouble free year so far. go with what you like and hopefully you have good success with the brand you choose.

I know a lot of people towing goosenecks with tundras with no issues. Father in law used to tow one with his, switched to a Ram 3500 and has had the engine and transmission replaced in under 30k miles. They are all going to have there issues but from our experience, firs has treated us best in the 3/4+ trucks. I wish Toyota would get into the heavy truck market because they make such a reliable truck that can take a beating. I do know I won’t ever be buying a modern diesel because the fuel prices are high for diesel, initial purchase cost is high, and repairs are expensive. I like that ford and GM are making these new bigger gas engines. I’ll probably end up with one of them in a couple years but my older trucks are serving me well at the moment. Tractors, I’d of course go diesel but I ended up with a 25hp because it doesn’t have emissions. I bought a lx2610 with a cab. I like the cab and comfort but not really impressed with the rest of the tractor. I wish JD would make a 25hp with a hvac cab. I guess I have to keep my kubota for now

Yes Tim, the way you drive the tractor off is an A1 idea. Not sure why the second guessing. Maybe it is hard to accept turning while still on the ramp as a good idea. However it works and I would do the same. Never even gave it a thought till I saw other comments!

Weld bars onto the top of the goose neck part. That’s where your bucket/front attachment goes. Weld a quick hitch to the inside of the front of the trailer. Attach tractor to it, only chain down rear. Allows bigger tractors this way and is faster/No confinement issues.

Hi Tim, It's always great to hear about your experiences with trucks and trailers. Todays big 3 pickups, are very expensive, and they all seem to have issues. What really sucks is that the bodies seem to start rusting so quickly. There is no excuse for this or all the mechanical issues that everyone is complaining about.

YES!! A Truck and Trailer Tuesday.....Finally.

Your loading and unloading issue can be remedied by using car ramps as an extension of the trailer ramp to lessen the angle, works for me on my trailer

There's not a vehicle Mfg out there that has a spotless record. I've know folks with issues on every brand around. My F250 has 340k miles, has had issues, but nother really serious. Others have had multiple issues with the same truck. Glad the trailer has held up well!

From 1987 until 2019 I had two Chevrolet Silverados. A 88 model and a 98, only minor problems. When I went to our Growers Exchange meetings there would be 50 pickups, one Tundra, two Fords, three Ram duellys, the rest Chevrolets. My neighbor still drives a Ford but his wife drives a Chevrolet. I sold him my '98 to use as a crew truck on his farm. For your ramp problem make some short lengths of 2x8's. On each side put two under the ramp, two after the ramp, and one past the second two.

Love the BWise dump trailer, looks like a great method to me, the angle on/off approach with that wide ramp!! Have a good one!!

Howdy Tim & Christy. I've only owned Ford's and nothing else. I.did have a charging problem with my travel trailer, the 10 ga is not big enough to allow for enough amperage flow. I ran separate 2 ga from the battery back to the rear of the truck. 100 amp fuse by the battery. On the trailer side 2 amp wire from the battery to the hitch point. Also fused at the battery. That will end all of your dead batteries. It charge when it's hooked to the truck and not only when it's running. Thanks for all the great videos

Sorry you're not happy with the truck. I have over 140k miles on my 2013 Tundra and everything works great. Only issue for you would be the 10k pound tow capacity, but it suits me quite well. The Ultimate Dump is a very impressive trailer, that thing is HUGE!

I have a 2002 Silverado just turned 222k miles everything works I would drive it anywhere. Not necessarily saying Chevrolet is the best, but older trucks seem to be more reliable.

Maybe you could try raising the trailer a couple feet in the front to change the ramp angle. Great channel. Love my 1025r. Have made a couple attachments for it. Stump bucket, root ripper just from stuff I had lying around. Anyway tractor on.....

I’m with you Tim , loading the trailer with the tractor, problem solved. There is no problem. No need to look any further.

Let’s get started

One of the more amusing lines about trucks I've heard was by Bobby Goodson from Swamp Loggers. It went something like this: "If you want a work truck buy a Ford. If you want a truck that rides good buy a Chevy. If you don't want either buy a Dodge."😉

If you tilt the dump bead up a little bit it makes it easier to load the tractor

Even though it was an unplanned Truck and Trailer Tuesday, it was good to have one for a change of pace.

Trucks are very expensive! I hope the issues you are having are simple fixes. I really like your dump trailer and how versatile it is. Thanks for another great video and I’ll see y’all on the next one. Go Heels! Take care and God bless…

I have a 2011 Ram and never had any issues. Two friends had 2011 Fords, different models, and their frames rusted and bumpers rusted out. They got rid of them around 2018. I'm still driving my 2011 Ram 5.7L and still looks new. Frame looks good. Only problem I had was a the rocker panels and the side steps where they attach rusted and pulled through. Looking on forums, seems to be a well known issue with Ram and rocker panels. Other than that my truck looks new. Welded plates on the rocker panels and side steps are back on. With todays prices, think I'll drive it till it dies. Has about 112,000 miles on it currently.

My 2008 Sierra had intermittent driver window failures, so I replaced the switch assembly to no avail. Took it to my trustworthy dealer and they found out that I had worn out the wiring bundle at the driver's door joint. OK, 14 years and 200,000 miles....but still, you'd think GMC could make a product that would last longer.

When quality was job 1; Ford products were much better. Now the emphasis is on profitability for both the corporation and the dealer. My experience with Ford products has been the seals between the joints become brittle and/shrink. Replacing these usually fixes the problem. I suggest you use a Freon/123 mix which you can purchase on line; much colder less energy to drive the compressor. Hope this is helpful.

Hi Tim, I agree nobody wants to make heavy duty trucks anymore except for Chevy, Ford, and Dodge/Ram. Me personally I would go with Chevy I have a Chevy and it is a 2013. I have no rust problems and really no problem with it. The only problem I had with it was the mass airflow sensor but I through one in it took me 15 minutes and it was back up and working. The check engine light only came on.

you are completely correct! you have deal with the same problems n a ram or chevy, their quality has gone down to nothing.

As always you bring thoughtful experience and advise to your channel! Sorry you are having truck troubles. Diesel emissions issues are the absolute worst, although you haven’t mentioned your Ford having any…yet. I have had 3 diesel trucks from a competitor without issue on any of them…no rust either. Love the trailer! Just a thought. At this site there were curbs. Perhaps lowering the rear gate/ramp onto the top of a curb would take away enough approach angle to drive the 1025r straight on/off when the backhoe is attached. Also, have you tried raising the dump bed slightly in an effort to achieve the same?

If you partially dump the trailer so the front is raised about two feet, basically so the deck and the ramp are straight at the same angle, then the departure angle is a little better and is usually just enough to not drag.

Top fix on Mitchell for P0198 is to replace the oil temperature sensor itself. Obviously that isn’t a complete or proper diagnosis, just most common fix for that code. I have wiring diagrams and other info if you want to tackle it yourself. Alternatively, I have a diesel shop here in central Indiana (shameless plug)😅.

Powerstroke Tech Talk w/Arod talks about some of the fraying issues with Fords from a Ford mechanics perspective. He commented about a similar A/C issue in one of his videos.

You should try putting the dump bed up a little and it will make the angle of the ramp less so you won't hit

I was worried about buying a king ranch f250 because of all the electronics, zero issues. Other than the annoying DEF And congratulations on 200,000 subscribers! Can't believe that I've been watching ttwt for almost 5 years now. Keep up the good work and here's to the next 200k!

Tim. I've been a gm man since February 1986. I saw the black number 3 and that was it I loved gm cars and trucks and the earn hearts. throughout the years being a mechanic gm was always easier to fix and much cheaper to hot rod up. but today's junk all manufactures are putting out I stay away from. that's why my newest truck is a GMC 1998 suburban

Totally agree. I will be looking for a truck soon and it is very frustrating that other manufacturers don't offer the bigger sized trucks. I have been a Toyota guy just about all my truck driving career because of their durability and reliability but, frustrated they don't offer a 3/4-ton truck. I did have a 1/2-ton Chev a few years back that was a very good truck as well so I will probably start with those when I begin the truck hunt.

Good evening & God bless you

Tim I hear you couldn’t agree more I have a 08 Toyota Tundra 393k it’s been super reliable I sometimes wish it towed more If the big 3 would stand behind their products a little bit more and try and build a better quality like they use too I would step up to a larger truck

Tim a few years back I had trouble with the A/C on a F150. It was a module that controlled fan speed located behind the glove box. My truck was 2 or 3 years old. It was still under warranty and w quick fix.

There is too many electrical components in the newer trucks. 28 separate electrical modules containing 1200 of the super chips we can't get ahold of.... Also the EPA regulations making us use the Tier 4 air cleaners that don't hold up!!! I work at the Ford Kentucky Truck Plant in Louisville and LOVE our trucks even seeing all the issues!!! Luv ya's from Kentucky!!!

Hay Tim love your video's something you may try is to lift the front of the trailer to take some of the slop off the ramp for the backhoe don't drag

I too am a fan of the Cargo Buckles. I also have found the straps from Ken’s Bolt on Hooks are a great extension for them if more length is needed. Blessings.

offloading raise the box on the trailer, it changes your angle of the ramp

The 2017 and 2018 had some problems with the ac I have seen at lest 30 trucks whit ac problem

Just had a problem with my F350 a/c. Turns out it was the compressor connector which is apparently a common problem with those trucks. Lots of searching to pinpoint a $7 part. I hope yous was an easy fix.

Hard to believe you had that truck that long seems like you just got it time sure goes fast

The sensors are can bus. When one fails, other problems appear, but will go away when the bad sensor is replaced. Sensor is on bus with other sensors and devices, and some failures make other problems appear.

Small access door at the front of the trailer would help with tie -down.

Hi Tim! Great video as always, and you’re right, trucks are expensive to the point where any issue is irritating. Not very realistic, but nonetheless true. As to the 1025’s backhoe hitting the ramp, it’s not uncommon, and I’ve found the easiest way to manage it is to raise the dump box and you lower the ramp to bed angle. Problem solved. Cheers!

I understand you are frustrated with the truck. Bad trailer wiring can cause the Aux fuse to blow. I found on my 2001 F350 that the truck has separate fuses for left turn and right run for the trailer. I thought I messed up wiring a new trailer light after I busted one, but just blew a fuse on the truck. I'm glad it was a fuse and not a melted wiring harness. Have you had other videos describing issues with the truck? I can see the truck refusing to run the AC if it thinks the oil may be too hot. Hopefully it's just the sensor and you'll get it resolved real soon. I've had several GM trucks over the years, I've replaced the oil pressure sender in every one of them, granted after 100,000 miles, but sensors can fail at any time. In my experience the paint and body holds up better on a GM. I can't really compare drive train, because my GMs have all been half-tons and my Fords are 1 ton and larger.

Put a 2x4 at the end of the ramp would raise the tractor.

I have to use wooden boards placed just before the ramp on my trailer because of the same issue with my 1025R with the backhoe. It keeps it from bottoming out.

Hello Tim., great video as usual. Sorry to hear about the truck. Unfortunately with today's cars and trucks this seems to be the norm. I'm not saying every vehicle will have problems but too many will. Anyhow, I was reading some of the comments about the unloading of your tractor, I've used the same approach. No need to buy or make ramps or even add extra steps in unloading your tractor. Work smarter not harder. Thanks for your videos, been enjoying them over the years.

I agree with the quality of pickups today. It's the same with semi trucks to with a lot of emission problems and parts availability. I had to wait 2 ays for a sensor and cost 1500.00 to replace. It just gets frustrating!!!

The fords are gonna be the best ones rn because the chevys have transmissions problems and engine problems same with dodge and the ac goin out doesn’t make it unreliable it still runs better than the other 2 brands😂

Why not use the same procedure as guys loading exotic cars on trailers... that is to lay down two planks as ramps where the tailgate meets the ground. That will raise the tractor significantly as it starts to roll up the ramp. The planks don't have to be all that long.

Great tip with the pig tail chain on that style of cargo buckle. Time for me to visit Menards :) Its unfortunate about all the newer trucks being lemons these days. There's no shortage of youtube videos showing most all brands issues. Rockhill farms shows off his '22 Ram lemon he paid 83k for, GWT has list of issues with his Fords. GM no different. Just goes to show the saying never fades that they just don't build anything like they used to.

Tim All trucks have problems. Some more than others, and I do not mean the brand. I have a '21 Ram 2500 , with the Cummins, had for a year, and have had no problems as yet. But for the price of these trucks, there should be no problems. As for the little dig about rust, if you lived here where the salt water is close, I have had Fords that rotted and fell apart, as well as GM's, and Dodge's. I have the electronic rust control installed on my latest Ram, guaranteed for 10 years, I will let you know in 9 years if it works LOL. I find Rust Check to be a good product as well, if applied every year. Of course the newer Fords all have the Aluminium box, but I have found that makes the truck to be very light in the back, and lose traction in winter, very easily. I owned a 2015 Ram 1500 before this last one, had for 6 years, and never had a minutes problem in that 6 years. But have had other people tell me they have had nothing but problems, with theirs. I believe there are lemons in every brand, and if you happen to obtain one, it can be very frustrating. With the amount of electronics they are installing on these newer vehicles, it is a wonder there are not more problems. It seems we have become a throw away society, where a vehicle could last 10-15 years in the 60's-70's if properly maintained, now 5-6 years seems to be when the new wears off and the problems start.

My most recent truck is a 2015 f250 diesel and the emissions system has been nothing but issues. I think the quality across the board has been decreasing with all makes and models. I doubt you will see these trucks on the road 30yrs down the road like you still see older fords, chevys, and dodges from the 80’s and even 90’s. This will be the last diesel truck I will buy.

I had reliability problems with a Mercedes Sprinter diesel RV. Limp home mode at 3,000 miles and 5 recalls in 3 years. Sold it as I just didn't feel it was reliable enough, particularly in rural parts of the country where there wasn't a Mercedes dealer at a reasonable distance. My 3 year old NH tractor has also been at the dealer twice with emissions issues that reduced the power to the point it was unusable. There isn't any escaping diesels in tractors, but I don't intend to buy any more diesel powered equipment or vehicles.

Tim has greater pucker factor resistance than I! :) Seemed tippy coming off the trailer, but hard to tell on camera. Bummer on the truck issue, hopefully an easy fix and it behaves. Youse pays your moneys and youse takes your chances! :)

The manufacturers realize people don’t respond to a “check engine light” anymore so they either throw every dashboard light, or they start shedding wanted options like A/C, or the infotainment system so you HAFTA respond. It’s usually indicative of a computer issue. Hopefully still under warranty - hear that clock ticking loudly…

I don’t care what the vehicle is you’re always going to have problems we just had problems with my wife’s pilot 2017 cam sensor the dealer blamed it on the oil we were using ended up being a defect from the casting Thank God Honda picked up the bill My 2006 F250 just came back from the garage $8000 later blown head gasket and had a few other things done as well while they have it a part

Put the trailer in a slight dump mode to load and unload with the backhoe.

Could you reduce the angle on the ramp by lifting the front of the dump trailer a little bit loading/unloading?

I hear you Tim on the issue with such expensive trucks and being left less than impressed. I said to someone that if Kubota made a work truck I'd buy one as I have loved my kubot tractors and excavator with the exception of the bx series ones although I'm sure a decent product as well for the right purpose. I do have a 94' FSuper Duty with dump though that is a good old truck with low km and hard to find.

Would it be easier to tie down the tractors if you dropped the sides of the trailer? Leaning in from outside might give you more/better access to the tie-down rings.

Great video as always Tim! I've got a ram and I've had a few issues but it seems like the norm. I dont even want to begin mentioning the issues we have had from Bobcat over the past two years.. Makes truck issues look miniscule.

Sorry to hear that you are having trouble with your truck. I'm a Chevy guy but I worked for GM for 33 years and I'm not going to bash Ford.. I've found that all manufactures of trucks have certain problems and with all the electrical devices they have today. It just a matter of time before some gremlin pops it ugly head up.

Um... Toyota Tundra is a very valid full size pick-up alternative. Toyota knew if they wanted market share they had to hit a home run and IMHO they did. Now I'm not sold on the twin turbo V6 but everyone seems to be going that way these days.

Tim: I have trouble getting bent over and getting the chains or buckles hooked up. Huh, sounds like you're getting old,...I mean, older, Tim. 😉 Maybe you could add a permanent 2 foot long chain pigtail to the trailer D rings, with a small hook up above on the inside of the trailer to hook them on. Then you wouldn't have to bend down in the small space. Just unhook the pigtail from the small hook, then hook your self-retracting buckle to it without having to bend down so far. Or, just let Christy do it. 😁

Speaking on "reliability"... I've seen some of thew newer , 2022 Rams, needing entire engine replacements & Ford Super Duties having Oil leaks out the door... I don't know if its do to logistics issues or human resource issues, in regards to these kinds of failures, b/c the (respiratory thing that started with a "C" jacked a lot of stuff up) in regards to morale of employees & hard logistics.. in regards to stuff manufactured recently. Anyways, your right about these trucks being too expensive, no disagreement there. All that wonderful tech they got on the trucks nowadays, comes back to haunt you..

For your loading issue, using some plate steel make yourself 2 wedge style ramps and hinge them to the trailer gate. That way when you need them just flip them down and load. Or you could pin them.

Hello Tim How much Engineering would be involved to re-enforce the top of the front Panel/Plate of the Trailer to put "D" Rings at the top of the Front Panel that would allow anchoring the Tractor with The ROPS to the Trailer. Maybe align those "D"Rings closer to the center of the Front panel inline with the ROPS. Then use Safety Chains too the Goose Neck Frame. Possibly something like the Bolt on Hooks for the FEL Bucket. That way a Brace or a Chain can be attached to the "D"Rings through the front plate and then outside of the front Panel/Plate with removable Chains or Braces can connect to the Tongue for chaining down the Tractor without having to get down inside the box of the Trailer. I have the same problem loading and unloading My L-2501 with whatever Implement dragging as the front tires increase the angle going up the ramps. Fortunately I have only Loaded/Unloaded on soft sand or dirt and My Backhoe plows about 4 inches every time. I guess I will have to drive up the ramp and stop just before the Implement hits the ground. Then measure how high the Front Tire is when contact is about to happen. Then build wooden ramps long enough so that by the time I reach the original Metal ramps the part of the Backhoe that hits is at least 6 inches above the ground. Yes it will be an additional step to loading and unloading but metal ramps that long will need power assist to move them. My 18 foot Beaver tail trailer is now 4 years old and some of the planks are starting to fall apart where they had knots in them. I am searching for ideas or plans where the extra long ramps can slide under the deck and be hidden by hinged plate/panel that is part of the Beaver tail.

Well I have almost the exact same set up. 1025R bwise ultimate dump. I do not use a backhoe on the back I use a weight box. I have to pull forward onto mine there is no way to wiggle that weight box up backwards it just ends up hitting. My only complaint with the trailer really is that there is nowhere to grease the hinges and latches for the door there’s only one grease fitting on the actual top of the cylinder pivot. I have had mine about a year and those latches are hard to move sometimes they need a little help from a sledgehammer not ideal I may end up tapping them and adding grease fittings.

ac just needs the old stuff vacuumed out then re fill according to weight on manufacturing specs. the other is a bad sensor all ac’s leak. the refrigerant acts like lube for the compressor

Stick with Ford they are still the best despite the annoying issues. You are right though for the price, none of them should have any issues for many years.

I have a 17 f250 with the same engine. My truck has 130000 and was purchased with 121000. The biggest weak point of those engines is the cp4 injection pump. My truck has the disaster prevention kit installed for when failure occurs and they will eventually. The duramax has the same issues. My truck is deleted and tuned 200 hp overstock and averages 22.5 to 23 mpg on 35 in tires. If you are interested I have family member who has a diesel performance business in southern illinois who could help.

I like the shorter videos like this one. 👍🏻

As far as the truck… not saying this is what you should do, i just think its interesting information. I had a chevy colorado i needed to replace at 120k miles and all the mechanics told me from their perspective a GMC was the best way to go. So I have one now, only been a few months but it already has 75k used. No problems for me so far but i can tell ya just looking under it, its better built then the chevy colorado. Not saying everyone should run out to get one but i was surprised in the difference in construction having both come from gm.

I always appreciate your candor and observations. Have you tried the Tundra?

I have a 2013 Ram 1500 that is rust free and problem free so far.

P0198 EOT (Engine Oil Temperature Sensor) signal voltage too high. That code means the voltage is above 4.76v at Connector C1232E pin 36 Blue/Green for the oil temperature sensor. The ECM sends a 5v signal out to the sensor that the sensor pulls towards ground depending on the temperature. The higher the engine oil temperature, the lower the voltage. If the circuit is open you would see 5v on a scan tool and also when you measure the voltage. Looking at the oil filter there are two sensors directly above it, the lefthand one (about 11 o'clock from the filter) is the EOT. Offhand I'm not 100% sure that would prevent AC operation, it's possible but that should be able to be seen in scan data too. When you really think about how complex today's cars are the fact that there aren't a lot more problems is representative of just how well they are really made.

How high is the deck on that trailer? I load my 1025r with backhoe onto my 32 inch high deck over trailer without the backhoe hitting the ground backing down the ramps of the trailer. I've never loaded it backing on but i do have seperate ramps so pretty sure it wouldn't be an issue for me. I'm sure you have tried loading it facing the other way though just surprised it hits.

Interesting video Tim, deems like most of these newer vehicles all have small issues with meeting the many regulations manufacturers have to adhere to. How about a couple 3-4' hinged ramps to span that last transition? Have a wonderful day!

to many cheeseburgers have that affect too, with getting between the tractor and trailer wall

I like the ramp trick! Can't believe I never figured that out. D'oh 🤦‍♂️

New to the compact tractor and they can feel typsy how many hours u have in the tractor

I wish Honda would make some pick-up trucks...i would buy one in a heartbeat!

Good information Sir!

Those cargo buckles aren't DOT compliant. For tieing down equipment. They are for boat tying..

Just make a HD pickup with either Ford 460 with C-6 or GM 454 with 400 hydramatic, ps fuel is over a dollar cheaper

To fix the backhoe issue, could you just lift the dump trailer about a foot to lessen the ramp angle before you reverse in?