I tell you what, if there's one thing i've learned from these turbo furnaces, it's that there's a good reason real jet engines are fuel-regulated instead of air-regulated. It's so much easier to limit the amount of pressure you build by just reducing how much fuel is available to burn. But you're right about one thing, for sure - this shit is *great* entertainment

That tiny little pressure relief valve isn't gonna do much, but I suppose when you see fire blowing DOWN you know it's time to make a run for it.

Use a throttle body or butterfly valve on the turbo intake not after the turbo. Then your controlling the air amount that is to be pressurised not controlling pre pressurised flow.

To make the door stronger you can weld some thick ass bars just inside the bolts with a x cross brace to try and keep it from bending. The turbo setup would probably work best as a twin turbo since there is so much flow coming out, may need to block one turbo to start, I think a true compound set up would be awesome if you could control it but it might just keep blowing the door off. You could also hook up a cable to the wastegate and pull it open to bypass some gasses, might not be enough though to do much but worth a shot. Also try spraying some water in the turbo as steam is a nice expanding gas with some cooling at these temps and would be cool to watch.

If it keeps causing issues, it might be best to try a different door set up. With a door with that much surface area, it is going to be a struggle. An 6 inch or so round door on the end of the tank might allow a smaller opening, while letting you load large long pieces of wood in. Heat is also working against your door setup. It looks like the mid section gets hot first. T.his is another reason it might help to put it on the end. I hope this gives you some thoughts. I have been enjoying watching these videos, and want to see what limits you can reach with some persistence.

Definitely need a wastegate setup with adjustment. This will let you run at whatever pressure/burn rate you want. Also would be better to to use a slide valve or butterfly on the intake instead of the ball valve on the compressed air. Restricting the air after the turbo has compressed it can lead to a surge/stall where the flow temporarily reverses back out the intake. I believe your current throttle causes back pressure on the compressor causing it to slow down, then less air goes into the combustion chamber, which causes the turbine to produce less power to run the compressor, and this repeats in a negative feedback loop. Restricting the intake fixes this issue. Another thing to try later would be injecting air between the burn chamber and the turbo to get the smokey gasses to burn, making more power. It might be difficult to get them to self ignite though.

When you put the valve in the output of the turbo you buildup a lot of back-pressure which can break the inlet turbine. It's better to put a valve in front of the turbo to limit how much air can get in.

The only thing missing from The Road Warrior... a Turbo-Barbie!

I'd propose angle irons welded to the top of the door and filling it up with water for evaporative cooling.

I do believe you melted some steel!! 👌😀 Try different exhausts? Curvy twin pipes off an old motorbike could be interesting. Great work. Watch for shrapnel. 😎

now this should be called infernal machine

As a mechanical integrity engineer, I recommended you fabricate a door that is rounded like the your compressor tank. The bending forces due to the pressure on a flat door is massive. Also, the stress concentrations on 90 degree corners and edges where you transition from round to flat surfaces are massive. Exchange the huge bending stresses to hoop stresses on a curved door and she’ll be 10x stronger. Hence why pressure vessels are round cylinders and not square boxes. Secondly, a ball valve is not suitable for flow control, especially with high velocity compressible fluid (air). A gate valve will work much better.

Going by others I've watched you get better control covering the front turbine over the ball valve. The best I seen was a large butterfly throttle body with spring return so as to use it from a distance with cable.

Hilarious entertainment! Very happy I found your channel. All the best with growing it. On the face of it, the 8mm plate you used seemed fine for that pressure but 2 things I thought you could change: 1. The holes which were oxy/acetylene cut were oversized. I realise drilling 12mm holes or whatever sized bolts you used is a pain in the ass but it will provide better clamping force considering the slop and the washers you used. 2. Something is going to fail. The system is not designed for long operation. However, if you want the door to not be the problem, I think you have to keep it cooler. I dont think it's expanding from the pressure alone but from the heat and the pressure (not an amazing insight, I grant you). What about insulating as much of the inside of the barrel, lid, bolts etc as possible with either an intumescent or refractory material. You may have fibre heat shields from the trucks (no idea, just a thought) or you might have to fork out for some. I'd definitely be putting in a better safety mechanism that can dump all that pressure and end the self-sustaining burn. Otherwise you will eventually create a bomb and 30 metres away in the shed may not be enough to keep all your limbs/life in tact. I look forward to seeing your nutter progress!!

Thankyou for this. You lot have just given me a idea for a little foundry and forge build.

I have never seen a turbo glow so much ever before😱😱😱

I'm waiting for you guys to make the local news.....for one reason or another lol. I get this feeling that you guys aren't anywhere near far enough away. For those who have never seen a serious explosion of eg a vessel under extreme preasure and glowing white hot....you don't even see the shrapnel....it's just a blurr lmao

One angry BBQ…. To me that’s a pressure vessel that could let go at any second. Entertaining AF but Stay safe lads!

Small leaks of hot gasses work like a Flame cutter. That‘s the way valves in an Engines burn out when they don‘t close all the way. Just make it tight and it‘ll work.

I've watched several of these videos, and can't figure out what the purpose is... yet it's incredibly entertaining.

i have watched with amazement that you got it running. and the first thing i seen that you put the oil return in to the combustion chamber. with the pressure in there this would have stopped the oil flowing but it was funny to see it blow up. good to see you changed that. the words from the girl saying why did it blow back out of the turbo. this called surge and this happened from closing of the valve you installed at the outlet of the compressor side of the turbo. this causes the turbo to reach it's max pressure and surge. you can control the inlet flow of the turbo to a point but if there is not enough flow the turbo will surge. as i see it the best way to control it is to bleed off air from the turbo before it is sent to the combustion chamber.

I think it would be better to have the whole end of the tank open up, it would be alot stronger, ditch the "door" and weld the original piece back in. And route the intake tube in an angle so that it makes the air go round and round inside the tank, it will it burn alot hotter/better and also cools the sides of the tank

Nice to see the oil not needing pumped by hand. I don't know that you can honestly contain that much heat/energy without spending a ton of cash. I honestly expected far more damage to the door, it looked like a massive cutting torch at the end. Probably the only way to keep the door somewhat intact is to encase a layer of fire brick or high temp insulation like Kao wool. That turbo you used is popular pretty with the guys that make gas turbojet engines. I've been looking for one here in the states for a while for a jet engine project. That run was really insane, your wife was cracking me up lol

For a boost gauge T off the charge line into a 200lt drum filled with water. Then a pipe up in the air 6 meters or higher with small holes every foot. The pressure will push the water up and out the holes for a good visual. If you turned the drum over. so the door was on the bottom were it doesn't get as hot,

What a Ripper! Good job mate, that was a pretty fantastic burn u had there & it kept going. I love it! My guess is that the best placement & configuration for the fire door would be to make a smaller round (even slightly domed) door at the end of the cylinder just behind where ur fresh cooler air is coming into the burner, this will take a lot more pressure & the cooling air entering into the chamber will help to keep the door somewhat cooler as well. A dome shape would give extra strength to the fire door, which may not be necessary if you make the door much smaller, you could even make a heavy duty hinge & have fewer bolts to do up in a circular pattern around the door. There are a lot of things u could do to this wonderful contraption u have built to control it, but WTF, let her rip, you did good, & it makes me proud to be an Aussie. Cheers

Quality stuff chaps, thats hilarious. Probably the best version of these turbo burners ive seen yet... Maybe on the next run you could put a butterfly valve on the intake, or at least have a plank of wood ready to slap on the compressor intake for the emergency shutdown?!

This may be the greatest thing I've ever seen!

That... That is probably the most violent machine I've ever seen in action!

Twin turbos, stainless bolts/nuts, as someone else has already suggested, reinforce door with bars running across it like beams under a deck. But obviously on outside burner.

"Y" off a second pipe and valve from the charge side to send some of the charge air into the chamber closer to the turbine ('after' your door). This air won't get heated as much and will expand less, allowing better control. Also doesn't increase EGT like pre-compressor throttle will.

Love it, proper use for a turbo.

@escape the everyday My suggestion for better control, probably a cleaner exhaust and cooler turbo would be to split the charge pipe before the valve with a Y or T pipe. Route the the new end through another valve and connect it to the turbo side of the tank. Around 1/4 to 1/3 of the distance from the end. That way you can control the amount of air going through the fuel and throttle it that way. The excess air will mix with the smoke so it might burn if the air velocity is low enough and also cool everything going into the turbo. I almost went through with building something similar my self may years ago. I got to the point of starting to acquire the parts needed but sadly I ran out of time and motivation before I got all the needed parts. The turbo I got is till on the shelf in the workshop awaiting a future project.

That was spectacular!

absolutely insane that it melted the bolts and bulged that thick plate lol. so much fun, thank you for sharing

Amazing! Keep going brother👍 I can't wait to see what a monster this thing will turn into, also, maybe turn the door around after use so the dent goes into the barrel, it should be able to resist the pressure better due to its profile

Man what a great show that thing makes.

Insane brother, mad love from uk

the carnage is amazing. got me to subscribe! cant wait to see more!

Who needs fireworks on the 4th when you got this thing

E-X-T-R-A-O-R-D-I-N-A-R-Y !!! 👍👍👍 ...and i MEAN IT in the REAL sense of the term !

Best one on the web so far!

Totally awesome!

Awesome Video material, thank you.,😊

That was awesome!

Compound turbo sounds pretty cool.

Bobby that's insane keep at it fun to watch your videos never know what you will do next all the best 😅😅

build it like a typical combustor can in a jet engine where the pressure vessel doesn't take the heat because there is an inner liner with a layer of cooling air between them. All it might need to be is a sheet of metal that you slide back before you bolt the door on. Edit: Inject the air in to the center of the door and have a deflector plate that acts as a heat shield making the air flow over the back of the door before exiting at the edges.

Reinforce the door with angle iron and restrict the air intake with an old throttle body and a long cable to adjust it. Can’t wait for the next vid!!!!!

Add a compressor bleed valve like they have on jet engines. Probably the big ball valve would do, and then feed that into the combustion chamber right before the turbine inlet. That way you could control it from running away I think. and it should also keep the turbine cooler. If I'm right, that is, haha! :D Love the project by the way! Awesome!

It was blowing back because as the compressor just started to build pressure, the air that compressor pumped hot hot pretty fast, creating more pressure than compressor was building momenterally, pushing the air back creating compressor surge

love thi, you guys are great!!

Maybe think about remotely controlling the intake valve (rope?) and kevlar turbo pampers from drag racers ;)

100% fun ,on point.

Compound setup should be around 150-200 psi.

First off love this thing super fun to watch.. Last one of these type of contraptions I saw which was controlled used a valve to put hot exhaust back into the inlet essentially restricting o2 intake in that manner controlling the burn rate. Can't quite remember how they plumbed it but it seemed to work to control the take off of the turbo to a pretty good extent. As for my personal take on how to solve the "door" issue perhaps instead of trying to clamp the door internally you can move the pressure above the door piece. Essentially making a clamp with a threaded piece above it and using the bolts to push the door down with either another piece of bar stock. If threading is an issue you could clamp it with a simple hole and a nut but that is more fiddley.

Cool spark show!

Interesting... you made a new way to make fireworks.

my suggestion, feed the exhaust back into the cylinder... inside the cylinder run a snake of water pipes through to create super heated steam, run that steam either to a dynamo to create electricity (jacobs ladder?) or just shit run the superheated steam back into the turbo... just remember that the steam needs to be a closed system or you need a huge tank of water. Power stations get their steam up to 1500 degrees C (not surer under what pressure but I bet its damn high lol).

I wonder if adding some steel angle to the door as reinforcing ribs will help keep it from bending. Can also extend the intake to the turbo and add a ball valve or butterfly valve to the non charged air side to meter the air going into the turbo for throttling and quick shut down.

cool video, so enjoyed

"Did we have a safety shut off?" "Yeah, right here but no one was dumb enough to shut it off" These are my people!! 😂😂😂

You guys are COOL nice Job 👍

That thing is AWESOME 👌 👏!!!!😃... Maybe try a whole new tank design that has the opening only at one end. Additionally, a door that self seals from the inside out under pressure may work as well 😀 Good luck 👍🏽 and thanks for the entertainment 👏❣️👏❣️

I've been very interested to see a compound boosted setup so it doesn't take so long to spool it up via compressed air or Leaf blower. As for the door, following the Contours of the tank would be best in my opinion. Seems to me you're creating uneven pressure points inside the container.

That's awesome. I can just imagine how much energy that could generate if coupled with a generator head or alternator. Job well done.

Its never going to work until you sacrifice a goat and two chickens sealing the gaps with cane toads.

4:22 the point of it was it was absolutely AWESOME seing a turbo being used in that way ! 😀 . Edit..... i think you should do the same again but seal the door better . It looked like it was leaking sparks early on, so once its found a little hole thats it.... . itl rip it wide open

You can strengthen the "door" by adding angle plate to the edges where the mounting bolts are and across the middle of the plate to keep it from bowing out from the pressure. Best to turn the plate upside down to make full use of the v shape to hold the door together when under pressure. This has been entertaining for sure to see the progress.

If you need it to not overheat, combine a throttle(/wastegate) to save the turbo with injecting water, ideally after the burn chamber but always before the turbine. You could, for example, use the excess steam/exhaust mix through a second turbo who's compressor doesn't feed the barrel, but just does something cool on the side (wood barrel powered leaf blower?)

Now that’s a Fiaugh🔥

You could have a new business venture. Imagine cremating a body in a machine such as yours turning red hot, shooting off spark and belching fire and smoke. What a grand way to go. Plus its portable so people can have there last moments of glory anywhere they want. What a perfect send off for a car mechanic or train engineer to go out turbocharged.

Leaf blower to start it, valve over turbo inlet. And this things perfect.

Adding another vote for trying bypass flow valve connecting the compressor outlet to the turbine inlet, bypassing the fuel. It allows you to directly control the burn rate Supports more complete combustion of the wood gas. Lowers exhaust temperatures, preserving the turbine. You may want to extend the exhaust riser to tee in the bypass flow there to support better mixing of the two flows before they reach the turbine. Excellent work, I love this series.

its amazing that all that energy simply comes from wood! xD

Definitely compound

Awesome video, until the the steel burnt m) Next time you could put a high pressure washer water injetion nozzle in front of the exhaust turbine for extra oomph ;)

Relieving chamber pressure seemed to work pretty well for stopping it. A large ball valve on the top with a cable attached maybe as an emergency shut off?

A brass mist nozzle brazed to old brake line and spraying water into the turbo inlet when she goes hyper to bring her back in line. Copper pipe for the turbo oil line in and out, use a return feed for the oil with electric pump and large reservoir to slow how fast the oil heats up. A pwm (pulse width modulation) running a pulse pump feeding oil so once up to running temperature you can drip feed old oil with precise control.

Holy #&^%@ that was AWESOME! This video was amazing! Thank you very much for making this video.

all i know is that one hell of a turbo that was sick

Raw display of theory and efficiency raw power… build something that’ll run full out and not destroy itself and you can basically power anything else 😂 and it’s 🤩 fun

You should have a cable moving your ball valve from a distance, so you can throttle it without being close. You should put a compound turbo system as well !

I’d love to see a measurement of how loud it is in the next one. Great video!

oh yeah, that was epic, better get that door fixed ;)

We put a waste gate on the boost pipe after the turbo, before the barrel. It worked really well at regulating the burn.

find an old cable throttle body at the scrapyard and find a long cord or cable. really nice control on that vs the ball valve. run hardlines from the drain, feed, and reference ports. and id also like to see a compound setup on it. you could also try and make a cooling jacket for the door to keep it from melting, or keep that as a "safety feature"

For control, you should have something to choke the air inlet. Other turbo burn barrels use that and it looks to be working well. Would probably help avoid it blowing the door from over preasure. I'd love to see some angled air intakes on your output pipe, see if you can't get it to afterburn all those gases.

Guys. I'm the original designer of this contraprion you guys built. You need a 44mm wastegate attached to a mighty vac vacuum pump. You need to leave the tank in its round form. A pressure gauge and make the intake boost pipe the length of the tank witth air holes facing one direction. And a 4in boat blower engine compartment fan as a starter.

The best way for throttling is a bypass valve between the boost pipe and the turbine inlet(square tubing below the turbo) the fresh air mixed with the hot exhaust lowers the temperature at the turbine wheel and keeps it from melting, it also doesn't interrupt the airflow through the compressor wheel and therefore provides some braking force, so the rpm don't get too high. It is also necessary to cool the turbo down before it gets stopped, otherwise the oil in the bearings gets overheated and it turns into coal which will destroy the bearings very quickly, the cooling procedure should be something like this: take a leaf blower and start its engine, then close the shutoff valve in the boost pipe while the bypass valve is wide open and immediately blow air into the turbo intake until the turbo is cooled down at least to approx 300-400°C. The fire will slowly extinguish while you cool the turbo because all the air bypasses the fire and it goes only straight through the turbo. You can leave your current throttle valve as it is, it will now work as a shutoff valve to stop the air flowing through the wood, you may also connect a long rope to the valve handle, so you can use the rope as an emergency shutoff. You can even make the bypass valve self regulating if you connect the valve to a spring loaded piston which gets actuated by the boost pressure, if the pressure gets high the bypass opens and if the pressure drops, the bypass closes.

Destroying and rebuilding the furnace is part of the fun 😃 If you want it to actually survive The Unbearable Heat of Cleansing Fire, you need: • exotic materials • plasma coatings • much more MASS • fire brick/refractory cement

I imagine in an alternate reality, they would have used this for drag racing in the steam age.

I can't believe the turbo held up. The soot from wood is far more destructive than even the richest diesel.

Curious as to what kinda drive pressure the turbo is seeing, wonder if dual wastegate on the tank side of the turbo would bleed enough pressure to be able to control turbo.

Having a failure point such as the door is actually a good thing for safety. If you could add a smaller door with bolts that melt at a lower temperature or will shear off at a specific pressure, that might help prevent the whole thing becoming a giant bomb if it builds up too much pressure and the main vessel fails.

you need a waste gate on that turbo guys!

Really love the explainations and the video! Maybe next turbo, Diesel Locomotive turbo???

For the door you could use an inspector hatch used on large air compresser (the irony)they look like an Oval door you have to use fibreglass rope to seal it

You could try lining the entire inside, including the lid, with fire bricks and/or refractory cement. A couple of wastegates mounted on the small up pipe into the turbo should help control the boost and you could use something like a slide mounted on the intake of the compressor housing. This will also give you the ability to completely shut it down by starving it of air/oxygen.

A non intercooled turbo is capable of a pressure ratio of 2.5-3:1. You are then heating this air with fire. That is likely another 3:1 expansion ratio. This WILL increase the internal pressure. You are likely playing with a pressure increase of something like 7:1-9:1. 14.7psi (ambient air) x 9= 135psig. 135psig - 14.7 = 120psi. Go to eBay. Buy a $40 60mm wastegate and weld it to the intake tube. Put a 30psi spring in it. This will limit the intake air charge to somewhere in the 20-30psi range and limit total system pressure to 60-90psi. If it still destroys itself go down to a 24psi spring.

Just a thought for safety, perhaps you can direct a water line toward the turbo intake that you could use to quench the fire if things go really sideways. The control valve could be well out of range of danger. If the fire is so hot that you are melting the retaining bolts, you may want to consider wedges outside the firebox. This is fun stuff! BTW, I'm watching your videos from North America.