Thanks for the feed back.

So you did it all without having to remove/move the PTU?

@williamnixon5037 yes that is correct

@@williamnixon5037 Yup!

Thanks , I don’t like watching a video that talks for 10 minutes before showing us what to do 😄

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks for the feed back .I’m glad you was able to take on the task.

Thanks for this feedback, I have to do it on my car, makes me more confident about

Hi Scott. Could you tell me what, other than the turbo itself, needs to be replaced in this install? Are there any other hoses or lines that should be replaced? The shop mentioned something about a gasket also, does this come with the turbo? Thanks.

@@ED---209 I may have gotten lucky but none of my gaskets or seals looked bad. I'd gotten a new exhaust manifold gasket (between manifold and block) and used it just because I had it but I couldn't tell a difference between the new one and the old one. I got my replacement turbo used on eBay from a wrecked low mileage Escape so it didn't come with any extras and I reused all the same bolts from the original. The plastics can get brittle but if you're careful enough and lucky enough then you'll know after you have it apart if you'll need to replace any of those bits or can reuse (as I was able to) everything other than the turbo. The turbo I got was also attached to the exhaust manifold from its Escape and I didn't mess with the gasket between those parts. I just swapped the replacement as it came. So far, so good. That Variable Valve Timing solenoid on the top has plastic bits so please be careful when unplugging/removing if you go that route for pulling the turbo. That thing can also be the source of an oil leak on its own (mine was) and is pretty cheap and easy to replace as a starting point if you're not convinced it's your turbo. Good luck!

I called out the wrong tools?

@@275stratos "Wrong" ... as in what people think if they haven't spent much time reading through forums over the years. My point is to make sure that people understand that with the 2013 in particular, not every 2013 Ford Escape SE Ecoboost 2.0L FWD is identical. Sadly, they are not. It feels like Ford was either using what they had or they were already in the process of making changes throughout that 2012 production year. That might make sense, since the 2014+ models varied from the 2013 in many ways under the skin. For the same bolts, nuts, etc., my Escape often required 1-2 sizes different. Some of your Torx were Allen for me and vice versa. For me, that meant I lacked a couple of the sizes/types of sockets/bits to do the entire job... which meant putting it all back together so that I could run to AutoZone. LOL Lack of time to restart that project, made this long weekend my second attempt. So, no, you weren't wrong about your Escape, but some of the tools were "wrong" for my Escape. My Escape is like a person who hates doctors & hospitals... she has fought me every bolt of the way! I can't seem to work the knuckle loose and the CV Spline doesn't move, in-and-out a little bit, freely either so I'm not sure if it's the angle (front end up high enough for me to work under it comfortably) or if it's seized. Meaning I am forced to try to extract the TC from the top. I've seen it done by a couple of people on their 2013, but doggone if I can get it all the way out. I'm close and I've trimmed a little non-visible, non-weight bearing metal but I still haven't quite achieved extraction. I cannot figure out how those other folks managed it so quickly and easily... Except that maybe my Escape is just that kind of "Special". LOL There is nothing left in the way, except the firewall pipes, which I think are AC lines and wouldn't be worth disconnecting to gain 1/16" when I can wiggle past them with only light scratches. I have struts to do but they will need to wait and I'm wondering if it's time for new ball joints since their sleeves are all looking oddly flat/deflated in appearance. No issues yet but why wait if they might be headed there. Need the Escape for Tuesday morning to get to the VA Hospital 5 hours away I need this TC out and the new one to go back in that same path. Then I need to figure out if there should be a tiny drain hole forged into the bottom of the transmission box where it bolts to the oil pan. It looks like something chipped a hole in it but my uncle wondered if it might be a drain hole for water or something??? I haven't seen any leaks , but it it was chipped by something I ran over one night, as it fell off a truck, then I want to put some high temp red in it to seal it. Keep the salty humid coastal air out of there if that hole doesn't belong. Hope that further clarifies my clarification in my post. Very few 2013-specific videos online but I'm discovering these tools issues... And wonder if that's why Haynes Manual Videos don't call out sizes. I just wish my Escape was either Metric or SAE instead of a healthy mix of both. Maybe my Escape was a "Monday Morning" Escape. LMAO

You sir a a pain in your own ass...put up your video

You’re welcome Im glad it helps .

@@275stratos honestly. After not having alldata, videos like this are just as helpful. And as its winter in alberta. And I work in my driveway. Its great to see if there is any hidden hardware. Tbh. If I were to publish videos I'd probably be just as thorough And to the point.

Glad you liked it . Like and subscribe helps me to continue make videos.

Thanks for the feed back . I’m glad this video helps you .

How did you get the 3 bolt out

Try a ratchet wrench or Swivel socket

I’m currently changing a turbo on a 2014. I have all bolts out but need about 2 inches more of space to clear the studs that are on top. How where you able to drop the turbo down?

Your welcome.

This is what I was trying to determine... so I do need to drain the coolant to get this done? Mine is the 2013 fusion, but the same engine (1.6L)

Yes drain the coolant . If possible catch it in a clean bucket so you can reuse it .

@@275stratos cool, thanks

You’re welcome I’m glad this video helps you. If you need any more information let me know.

I did reuse the oil return line . I replaced all the gasket and banjo washers .

Thanks I’m glad it helped.

Bro this is killing me atm. Stupid torx crap.

I was getting a lost boost code .

Okay I went back and looked at the video. It could be that oil supply line leaking or the drain back tube line . Your best option is to jack the car up in the air out safety stands under it clean the area good with brake cleaner up start the engine and let it get warmed up climb under the vehicle see if you can see the leak

Yes

I did not remove the exhaust pipe just the 4 bolts at the manifold

If I remember correctly around 5-6 hrs

From the bottom

@@275stratos do you have to take off the other end that the turbo connects to some piece to the exhaust? I'm assuming I'm not a car guy, I'm just trying to do it myself

I've got everything disconnected and it won't pull out

@dustinmacomber4565 you just have to remove the clamp that hold turbo to exhaust

You know that brass clamp that you undo that goes to the turbo to the manifold. Do you have to rip out the piece that that clamp connects those two pieces?

Do you have tools and some knowledge?

@@275stratos I have a good amount of tools, I'm mechanically inclined and a Electrician by trade just cars has never been my things, lol. Plus I done have the best place to tear into a big project.

@@Mjs_74 , do it. I just tore my whole engine out for a swap out, I’m reusing my trans I just replaced last year. So while the engine is out I’m putting in a newer turbo. This video is short and quick but he points out just about everything you need except new gaskets. You can find those parts on another KZfaq video , I just watched it. It may be for an Explorer but at least it gives you an idea which ones to replace.

To be honest I don’t remember

You might loose some . It’s not to bad to remove

And do you think the throttle sensor could cause it to run half power if it’s stuck open

I just had the low boost code

Definitely check your throttle plate . If it throttle body doesn’t match your throttle pedal it can put it in limp mode

@@275stratos How do I check to see if they match I’m not sure how all that works and thanks for replying to me so soon I really appreciate it

I did not take the strut off

Still have to get under it to remove some lines and brackets .

@@275stratos Oh for sure! I meant the removal of the turbo from the top versus having to take out the axle and suspension pieces.

I don’t remember for sure. But for me to take the axle out means it made something easier .

Yes there is a gasket, it’s so you don’t have a exhaust leak, There is not supposed to be oil in that area. That Means either your turbo is shot

you don’t have. a oil leak above and it’s dripping down on the turbo .

So it's not leaking from there? it's leaking from up higher and dropping down on turbo? And turbo isn't shot, drives excellent. Just have to check oil weekly. Well going to check the valve cover gasket

If there are no other leaks visible from any area on the engine, the turbo could be internally shot, which would be why oil is coming from that area. Is the oil on the bottom or top of turbo? Because it could be puddling inside.

@@275stratos if turbo was shot and puddling inside would it still be drivable tho? Only asking cause it drives, just slowly losing oil somewhere. And I can't find any leaks, drips, just jacked it up to crawl under and check turbo and see burnt oil at that flange.

I’m in TN

@@275stratos crap alright

$80 labor is good . It had a low boost code is the best I can remember

If the part numbers are the same yes .

Around 3 hrs maybe 4

@@275stratos Thanks for reply!

Under boost codes .l

@@275stratos Thank you sir. Great video by the way. Mine seems to by leaking oil. Air tubes soaking with oil. So looks like I may be doing the same thing.

Yes it come complete. I honestly don’t remember where it come from the customer already had it.

@@275stratos Thanks gonna tackle one next week

Good luck and take your time also take pictures as you go in case you need look back at them for reference .

@@275stratos Thanks for your time

Yes it’s the 1.6 engine

@@275stratos Are you sure this is for a 1.6 liter? Reason I'm asking is that the 1.6 liter turbocharger has only 3 bolts to the exhaust manifold versus 4 on the 2.0 liter turbo.

Yeah it was a 1.6

@@275stratos OK. Hey thanks for the video - really appreciate your taking the time to do it. My son and I are going to tackle the job next week, and this makes it much easier.

1.6 engine

They definitely have Transmisson problems and turbo problems . I wouldn’t pick the Ford over a Toyota Highlander or Honda CR-V if you’re looking for a small suv.

AUTO TECH TURPIN so in other words it’s a ticking time bomb?

It’s not if your going to have problems . it’s more like when because it’s going to happen.

AUTO TECH TURPIN thank you for your time, I’ve been researching it all day. Probably won’t be getting it after all!

Yes same turbo set up

@@275stratos thanks alot... 👍

I think it was around $1,500 labor and parts!!

It was just from wheel drive.