#1 Heckmair Route Eiger North Face 3970 meters Bernese Alps mountaineering mountain

Рет қаралды 539,900

Күн бұрын

#1... November 2015, mountaineering, mountain... North face of the Eiger 3970 meters, Bernese Alps... Heckmair classic route... 1500 meters of ice and mixed snow in a great atmosphere... Thanks to Morgan Baduel to Yorick Vion and others...
- Premiere: July 21, 1938 to July 24, 1938 by Anderl Heckmair, Ludwig Vörg, Heinrich Harrer and Fritz Kasparek...
- Winter Premiere: 1961 by Toni Hiebeler, Walter Almberger, Anderl Mannhard and Toni Kinshofer...
- First solo: 1963 by the Swiss Michel Darbellay...
- VIDEO PART 2: • #2 Voie Heckmair Face ...
0:00 Introduction
0:09 Grindelwald et petit train.
00:25 Kleine Sheidegg et bivouac.
01:07 Marche d'approche, le socle en mixte.
2:07 La Fissure Difficile.
4:11 La Traversée Hinterstoisser.
5:33 Le Premier Névé.
8:06 Le Deuxième Névé.
10:21 Le Fer à Repasser.
11:05 Le Bivouac de la Mort.
11:55 Le Troisième Névé.
12:26 La Rampe.
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#eiger #northface #voieheckmair #mountain #mountaineering
- The words of the north face.
Grindelwald, Kleine Sheidegg, The Base, The Difficult Fissure, The Hinterstoisser Crossing, The First Neve, The Second Neve, The Iron, The Bivouac of Death, The Third Neve, The Ramp, The Disintegrated Vire, The Rotten Fissure, The Crossing of the Gods, The Spider, The Exit Chute, The Pendulum Abseil, Bivouac Corti, The Exit Cracks, The Terminal Slope, Summit of the Eiger 3970 meters...
- The Eiger is an individualized peak of the Alps located entirely in Switzerland in the Bernese Alps massif. Its name, attested in 1252, does not mean "ogre", contrary to popular belief, but more probably "big spear". The confusion is due to the climbers who died during the ascent of the north face: this one, almost totally vertical or overhanging, is considered to be the most impressive and the most famous face of the Alps, if not the highest. Along with the north faces of the Matterhorn and the Grandes Jorasses, it has constituted one of the “three last problems of the Alps” for mountaineering, and the last solved.
- Eiger dates...
1858: first ascent on August 11 by the Swiss guides Christian Almer and Peter Bohren in the company of the Irishman Charles Barrington...
1921: first ascent of the Mittellegi ridge by Yuko Maki with Fritz Amatter, Fritz Steuri and Samuel Brawand...
1932: northeast face by Hans Lauper with Alfred Zürcher, Alexander Graven and Joseph Knubel...
1938: first ascent of the north face on July 24 by the German team of Anderl Heckmair and Ludwig Vörg and the Austrian team of Heinrich Harrer and Fritz Kasparek...
1947: second ascent of the north face by Frenchmen Lionel Terray and Louis Lachenal...
0:00 Intro
0:09 Grindelwald
2:07 The Hard Crack
4:11 The Hinterstoisser Crossing
5:33 The First Neve
8:06 The Second Neve
10:21 The Iron
11:05 The Bivouac of Death
11:55 The Third Neve
12:26 The Ramp

Пікірлер: 159

@MrBanjo1977 3 жыл бұрын

just wonderful. the white spider, the climb up from hell, and now tvmountain brings those books to life and shows me the eiger nordwand in beautiful hd. thank you again

@huguesmoisy5242 4 жыл бұрын

Ils prennent le temps de faire chaque geste parfaitement. Pas de précipitation quel bonheur de les admirer

@franciscoguzman320 Жыл бұрын

K tengas buen k 8nki8888k8ikk88

@ayoroschevalier1485 Жыл бұрын

Merci du partage. Elles font rêver ces montagnes.

@tvmountain Жыл бұрын

Merci à vous

@whyareyoureadingthisstalke8378 6 жыл бұрын

I love this channel. No stupid techno music or dramatic landscapes, just pure climbing. Absolutely beautiful

@poipoipoi090909 5 жыл бұрын

cause is not from usa

@musicusaddictus 4 жыл бұрын

exactly

@michaelborgelt1600 4 жыл бұрын

I totally agree with you!!!

@navigateur101 3 жыл бұрын

Très impressionnant! Bravo! Merci pour le partage.

@tvmountain 3 жыл бұрын

Merci à vous 😊

@altair458 3 жыл бұрын

Absolutely unbelievable footage👍👍👍👍👍. Thank you, please keep up the good work!!!!

@nilsp9426 5 жыл бұрын

I like how you kept the original sound, it really adds to the atmosphere!

@jeanhumbert1291 8 жыл бұрын

J'avais 25ans ,au refuge j'ai contemplé Ha!!si si j'avais pu monté. Mais j'ai du redescendre et maintenant je rêve !!! J'ai 88ans 😞🏁🏁🏁🏁

@juliencaron3264 3 жыл бұрын

J'en ai 65. Mêmes sentiments.

@lronbutters5688 3 жыл бұрын

Wow! Well done! C’est magnifique!

@chodkowski01 Жыл бұрын

These guys are well equipped professional mountain climbers. They are the real deal.

@tvmountain Жыл бұрын

merci de votre message

@repsilia 4 жыл бұрын

Such a beautiful classic climb, breathtaking.

@altair458 3 жыл бұрын

Superb👍👍👍👍👍👌

@tvmountain 3 жыл бұрын

merciii

@misterfunnybones 4 жыл бұрын

I like to ski relatively fast (~90 km/h) on steep slopes, but full-on mountaineering on icy/rocky exposure freaks me out. I enjoy watching it.

@richardbaldus8674 2 жыл бұрын

Exactly I can concur with your comments I get the same vibe

@peterkainz3554 5 жыл бұрын

Very impressive, many thanks for uploading !

@robertbridge9612 5 жыл бұрын

When I was just a kid and lying sick in bed I read "The White Spider" by Harrer; it made a huge impression on me so that names like Hinterstoisser are still fresh in my mind. Thanks for posting.

@stephankirsh8893 5 жыл бұрын

Wow absolutely stunning!

@nicholasjanosy2214 4 жыл бұрын

Gorgeous camerawork, and super-tough guys. Congratulations,

@matthieuthuerler9353 8 жыл бұрын

Whaa! Genial!!! Super video et super performance! ;)

@SanFranTriDude 4 жыл бұрын

Such an accomplishment. Thanks for the video!

@pasqualeangiolillo1240 5 жыл бұрын

God bless you guys and all around this world...you are a very "brave" and very strong passionate..thank you..I love it

@ecycled3d 4 жыл бұрын

You know your in the mountains when you experience the sound of the cog train in motion 0:22. And the great shadow of the mountain at 8:52. Great video. Enjoyed hearing nothing but the sounds found naturally in the moment.

@WyeExplorer 4 жыл бұрын

I was digging the shadow the mountain cast. Great climb. Mark

@massimoguidali8735 4 жыл бұрын

Grazie, bellissimo video sul muro dell’Orco

@robertmacdonald733 4 жыл бұрын

Magnificent. Well done

@janplexy 5 жыл бұрын

beautiful !

@edmartinezdj9034 7 жыл бұрын

even with this amazing weather is scary... looks like the moment it gets a bit windy rocks will start to rain...

@AlexGNR 4 жыл бұрын

The north face creates own weather. A small cloud on a clear day can become a blizzard up there.

@joemaricich1733 4 жыл бұрын

I've skied in the shadow of the Eiger many times, and have taken the train up to the Jungfraujoch twice, but this climb is crazy! Kudos to whomever can do it and not kill themselves.

@thesceptic1018 5 жыл бұрын

Outstanding, putting up with that continual bombardment

@helmuthuber766 4 жыл бұрын

Tolle Aufnahmen! Keine blöde Musik! Einfach großartig!

@juliencaron3264 4 жыл бұрын

Magnifique ! Un rêve inaccessible : je suis bien trop vieux...

@francoismedard8994 Жыл бұрын

Tracasse pas Julien, ils l'ont fait pour toi, et partagent leur vécu avec nous. Bien à toi!

@paulmorrey733 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks

@TheWinwil 4 жыл бұрын

The ultimate legendary and classic northface. Still intimidating and long after all these years. Great climb, sensationally climbed and well documented. Thanks for posting

@isabelledelisere1635 3 жыл бұрын

Je ne suis pas alpiniste, je n'escalade pas non plus et j'ai le vertige mais c'est à travers la littérature que je connais l'Eiger. Joe Simpson et bien d'autre. Sans comprendre cet engouement, ce risque permanent, cet inégalable sentiment de vie et de mort accepté , je voue une admiration sans fin à tous les alpinismes.

@tvmountain 3 жыл бұрын

merci de votre message

@edmartinezdj9034 7 жыл бұрын

superb

@hmtnhk 4 жыл бұрын

In a very few years from now, this classic rock-ice climb will be just a rock climb. But now, enjoy this video.

@VicenteM 4 жыл бұрын

See you in a few years...

@dougdavis8986 4 жыл бұрын

Trump says climate change is a hoax?

@olsenupdate4890 8 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the vid!

@victoryarnold8778 4 жыл бұрын

OlsenUpdate ft4443333ok

@mareksroka7582 5 жыл бұрын

I am impressed

@vespesceriffoclimbingcrew4381 Жыл бұрын

Beautiful💯💯🔝

@tvmountain Жыл бұрын

merci

@alexsakon 5 жыл бұрын

awesome vid, bravo!

@dejanmilo 4 жыл бұрын

Hochachtung & Geiles Filmmaterial. :-)

@tourlove 4 жыл бұрын

Great!

@mqbitsko25 5 жыл бұрын

Look over your shoulder and it's summer...... What a bizarre place.

@hermit6208 5 жыл бұрын

They didn't call it the Death Wall for no good reason.

@msepp40 8 жыл бұрын

wow!!!

@yassinesamstek4467 5 жыл бұрын

Top 👌🏻

@acemacgruber6593 Жыл бұрын

Das gut.

@tvmountain Жыл бұрын

merci

@asdrud77 4 жыл бұрын

Que aire más limpio

@v_sign 2 жыл бұрын

Very exciting. THX! Why is there no video of you all standing on top of the Eiger?

@tvmountain 2 жыл бұрын

merci de votre message

@juliencaron3264 3 жыл бұрын

Une course de rêve, toute chargée d'une histoire dramatique. Vos images nous rappellent à ces grandes heures de l'aventure en montagne. Un regret : ne jamais avoir fait cette course et le Pilier Sud des Ecrins (c'est ballot, non ?) Merci à vous de nous y conduire avec vos belles images.

@tvmountain 3 жыл бұрын

un grand merci a vous

@ogmiossoimgo696 4 жыл бұрын

In a few years from now , this classic rock-ice climb will be all ice.

@j.radford7109 4 жыл бұрын

Or maybe all rock....

@lindseymckirdy1830 4 жыл бұрын

such shitty rock looks loose chossy and dangerous much respect to the alpinists taking it on in that condition . Even more respect to Heckmair and the first ascentionists. A route that still commands huge respect difficulty and danger how many respects can i get in a comment :)

@SolOmoN320 5 жыл бұрын

Question, when you are climbing as these guys are and lets say when they come to the Hinterstoisser Traverse and further up the Ramp do they use the protection that is already in place or do they install their own? On the traverse the ropes looked to be different and the bolts? looked old. I have never climbed so I know very little and it's interesting to me how it works. I know they bring ropes with them for connection between the climbers (belay?) I think... it's the other stuff that I am asking about. Thanks Chris

@SolOmoN320 5 жыл бұрын

Thank You! And would the last climber in the group remove the gear as they go so it doesn't cost a couple million dollars *jk each time you climb to buy new gear? Obviously some of the gear might not come out as easy as it went in but the majority of it would . Correct?

@SolOmoN320 5 жыл бұрын

wrong thanks so much

@wesmcgee1648 Жыл бұрын

Good luck in your latest assignment Dr. Hemlock- The Eiger Sanction.

@kiereluurs1243 4 жыл бұрын

Serious stuff. A bit too much for me. Pretty wintery conditions, I guess that's an advantage too. Would appreciate more annotations, longer in view.

@MrBanjo1977 3 жыл бұрын

very curious to know which mountain you consider the most beautiful. i myself am very fond of the dru. how about you?

@tvmountain 3 жыл бұрын

i love a lot of mountain

@MrBanjo1977 3 жыл бұрын

@@tvmountain excellent response

@rene3339 4 жыл бұрын

À 3.35, il faut imaginer Heckmaïr grimpant en premier avec un piolet pas trop technique. Un vrai tour de force.

@ast453000 5 жыл бұрын

This is a bit of an odd question, but what do you do if you have to go to the bathroom? I mean number two.

@yorickvion2771 5 жыл бұрын

You do like you can

@jeanpaulsilve5564 4 жыл бұрын

respects guy's

@horus173 3 жыл бұрын

Voie mythique !

@hermit6208 5 жыл бұрын

It is aptly named, the Ogre. What a frightening face. Climbing in the 1930s? Amazing.

@kukeye 4 жыл бұрын

the North Face is so steep.. You have no idea till you see it

@francoismedard8994 Жыл бұрын

Combien de points d'assurance y a t'il par longueur en mixte et en "glace" ? Merci pour la réponse. Bien à vous !

@tvmountain Жыл бұрын

pas grand chose...

@scrabble27 4 жыл бұрын

warum hört das mittendrin auf .. kein gipfel? ich checks nciht. darüber hinaus habe ich bei den beiden kein gutes gefühl .. sind soviel damit beschäftigt sich zu filmen.. und dabei gut auszusehen.. hoffentlich geht das weiterhin gut

@alexskimo518 3 жыл бұрын

weil es einen zweiten Teil gibt! solltest halt mal in die Beschreibung schauen. Die beiden filmen sich nicht gegenseitig, da ist noch ein dritter dabei & zudem klettern sie sehr sicher!

@AlexGNR 4 жыл бұрын

Im in grindelwald ATM and damn it so huge so dangerous and steep

@thirsklast438 4 жыл бұрын

You're stuck in an ATM in Grindelwald, and you cannot climb out?

@hexonatapeloop 8 жыл бұрын

8:47!!!

@petedraper8682 5 жыл бұрын

Would have been nice to have let us know which pitch they were on ie, Difficult Crack, 2nd Ice Field, Flat Iron, Ramp, Spider, Exit Cracks etc. Or were they doing the Harlin Route? Many thanks

@yorickvion2771 5 жыл бұрын

It's written, in French actually

@weberjack5483 4 жыл бұрын

Route; Anderl Hekmaier

@kiereluurs1243 4 жыл бұрын

You should know what "Heckmair" means.

@weberjack5483 4 жыл бұрын

@@kiereluurs1243 sayit.Googel,Anderl Hekmaier

@apexxxx10 6 жыл бұрын

*Ciitos. Cuinca monta suomalaista on walloittanut Eigerin Nord Wandin huipulle saakka? Bangkok-Jomppa*

@Jesus-tg9es 27 күн бұрын

Mi sueño no realizado. Por algo no pude ir.

@tvmountain 26 күн бұрын

Gracias por tu mensaje. El sueño de un montañero.

@karimpaulrifaat3443 4 жыл бұрын

vous connaissez prevost Régis jardin d'Arcadie Karim Rifaat convalescence et. olive 💻💻💻💻💻💻🔊🥂📸💾💿❓

@jacekwollny 4 жыл бұрын

going up looks so difficult... but how the f... you get down???

@ConquerCollin 4 жыл бұрын

You walk down the other side. In the olden days you couldn't get down past a certain point. That's why there were so many deaths

@amrezla3995 4 жыл бұрын

Gila

@AmiralAkainu 3 жыл бұрын

Vous n'avez pas le vertige ?????

@tvmountain 3 жыл бұрын

non tout ok

@jaredstarcher699 5 жыл бұрын

How are you going to not show the summit or provide an explanation with 15 minutes of video?

@tvmountain 5 жыл бұрын

#2: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gttig9qnvLnZqp8.html

@knuffelbeer193 5 жыл бұрын

How are you not able to look through your recommended videos and see the second video at the top of the list?

@michaelmcgrath2482 5 жыл бұрын

What about the summit.?abrupt end.

@jingshelpmaboab 5 жыл бұрын

There is a part 2... #2 Voie Heckmair Face Nord de l'Eiger 3970 mètres Alpes Bernoises alpinisme montagne

@MrGar11 7 жыл бұрын

Լեռը կամաց կամաց քանդվում է

@SubZeroMG4u 5 жыл бұрын

that guy at 11:23 in black think hes a bull :)))

@plumjam 4 жыл бұрын

Rather be at the pub.

@user-jk4wz8er3s 4 жыл бұрын

А поссать?на голову товарищу? А если по тяжелее? Че там делать:ни леса,ни речки .

@Pustynna_Burza 5 жыл бұрын

Horrible omg 😱

@TG-pd3ft 4 жыл бұрын

a shame about relying on the fixed ropes which rather devalues the achievement

@adaptivo3692 2 жыл бұрын

test

@adaptivo3692 2 жыл бұрын

People place their own value on what they do and It's not for you to assign a value to their climb or bring your own measure to what they did. They set their own parameters for their climb and have filmed it honestly. Who is it "a shame" for? Is using a topo devaluing the climb? Watching close up videos so you know the route? Hiring a guide? Bringing your own measurement to someone else's achievement only shows that you lack an understanding of what really matters here. They went for an adventure and they happily filmed the use of the fixed ropes. no de-valuing going on.

@brinckau 2 жыл бұрын

@@adaptivo3692 I agree with you only partially. People climb those mountains because it's difficult. They want a challenge, they seek difficulty. If difficulty is the goal, then the value of the achievement is measured by its difficulty. The goal is not only to be at the top. Otherwise, they would have climbed the West face of the Eiger, which is much easier than the North Face. We can compare the achievements of people. For example, it would make no sense to say that the achievements of those guys in alpinism are not better than mine, when I can't even climb the West face of the Eiger. Saying that would devalue their efforts. Which is exactly what you don't want to do, apparently.

@galatians22122 5 жыл бұрын

QUESTION? A Majority of Climbers are Environmentalists, Save the Earth, Climatologists. How is Climbing a Mountain making the world a betters place? It is a Total self indulgent activity, and a Big Waste of Time. I mean Who are you helping by Climbing a Mountain? Everest? $100,000 Per person? FOR WHAT? Just be honest you don't really care about global hunger, climate change, or social issues. Your obsession for this selfish activity is proof. Have a Nice day!

@kiereluurs1243 4 жыл бұрын

Oh man, what a bunch of ignorant cliches. Everest is an entirely different thing (circus) than this thing (climbing). There is no permit here.

@adaptivo3692 2 жыл бұрын

Having an adventure with a friend creates memories. It's called having fun. Everything we do doesn't have to make the world a better place. Being negative like you are certainly doesn't make the world a better place, but you staying quiet possibly might.

@Elise-es2di 8 жыл бұрын

Sa va c'est des petit debutant personelement j'ai fais l'Everest, le Cervin le mont wagaba en korée du nord donc bon sa m'impressionne pas trop il Leur faut encore de l'entrainement

@sachabianchi3499 8 жыл бұрын

+Elise pour ta gouverne,l'everest et le cervin sont moins durs que cette voie (mais je sais que ton commentaire est humoristique)

@matthieuthuerler9353 8 жыл бұрын

+Elise Impressionnantes performances! Dommage que ce soit gâché par ton égaux... L'entraide et l'humilité c'est la base de l'alpinisme, il te faudra encore de l'entrainement... Et mes amitiés au sherpa!

@yorickvion2771 8 жыл бұрын

sérieusement ??

@Angelus68320 7 жыл бұрын

L'Everest et le Cervin (les voies normal en tout cas) sont bien plus facile que la face nord de l'Eiger alors ton commentaire bof !

@MrZoreole1 7 жыл бұрын

Moi j'ai fait le K2 en hivernal, 2 fois l'Annapurna par la face Sud et la dune du Pyla, donc c'est pas cette voie qui va m'impressionner. Elise a raison, c'est pour les débutants. Mais bravo à eux quand même.