Рет қаралды 63,540
August 2009, mountain, mountaineering... Central Pillar of Frêney, Classic Route... Courmayeur Chamonix Mont-Blanc massif... Michel Bordet and Nicolas Lochu in one of the most famous routes of the Mont-Blanc massif... 500 meters of perfect granite in 7a+/A1 max... Access via Val Veny, the Monzino refuge, the Glacier du Brouillard, the Eccles bivouac refuge, exit to the summit of Mont-Blanc and descent by the normal route and the refuge du To taste...
First ascent in 1961 by two teams led by Bonnigton and Desmaison (Chris Bonington, I. Clough, Jan Długosz and Don Whillans, 27-29 August 1961, and René Desmaison, P. Julien, I. Piussi, Y. Pollet-Villard 28 -August 29, 1961.)
Previously there had been an extensive attempt by Walter Bonatti, Pierre Mazeaud, Roberto Gallieni, Andréa Oggioni, Pierre Kohlman, Robert Guillaume and Antoine Vieille. Of the 7 protagonists, only the first three will survive...
- Superb route of 500 meters in 7a+ max in La Chandelle.
00:00 Refuge Bivouac Eccles, Col de Peuterey.
01:20 Rimaye, first lengths.
02:04 Sunrise, continued climbing.
03:45 Sunrise, continued climbing.
05:05 The beautiful red wall.
06:26 The overhang and the rest of the climb.
12:13 Under the Candle, snow ridge.
13:15 First length of the Chandelle.
14:40 Length in 6c A1, Chandelle du Frêney.
15:57 Crossing 7a A1, Chandelle du Frêney.
17:18 Dihedral in 7a+, Chandelle du Frêney.
19:43 Continuation of the lengths towards the summit of La Chandelle.
21:55 Summit of the Chandelle du Frêney.
22:40 Mixed to Mont-Blanc from Courmayeur and the summit of Mont-Blanc.
- VIDEO Eccles shelter: • Refuge Bivouac Eccles ...
- VIDEO Pierre Mazeaud talks about the Frêney Pillar: • Pilier Central du Frên...
- VIDEO Chris Bonington talks about the Frêney Pillar: • Pilier Central du Frên...
- In the middle of summer an invincible winter: www.editionspaulsen.com/au-mi...
- Michel Bordet with the independent guides of Chamonix: www.guides-cham.com/
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