very*

Thank you for the comment, I'm Glad my video has helped! feel free to subscribe, I actually do quite a bit of work on this vehicle and make videos to help others.

+Patricia Cortez your very welcome😊

Peter Mclaren your so welcome, thank you for taking the time to leave such a kind comment.

Hey Peter do you mind letting me in on what caused it to fail so quickly? I just bought my Santa fe in march and the previous owner had a new sensor put on in February. It failed in May and I decided I would give it a try with my girlfriends dad and now in July it's gone bad again and we just can't seem to figure out why it is going through sensors like crazy.

Adam Dodds we have been doing a ton of diagnosing to determine peters problem. We have determined that the fuel pump, all relays, all fuses and the fuel safety switch are not at fault. We did find that peters fuel safety switch (inertia switch) was tripped. I will have another video posted within the next 24 hours to guide people through a testing procedure for the checking voltage readings of a good crankshaft sensor.

Also after tons of test we are close to determining that the Car quest crankshaft sensor or the ECM may be at fault.

TweekerDan1984: Oreillys House Brand of Crank.Pos.Sensors Are BAD NEWS Also.The 3,1 Guage Wires. @ Other End of Sensor on 2.4 Are Unprotected,Except for Thin Layer of Plastic,Instead of A Preferred Rubber Conduit to Protect The Flimsy Wire Assmbley Against Heat & Crimping,That Kills the Sensor.House Brand Crnk.Pos.Sennsors Rarely Last as Long as The Time.Belts.& Do Not Give U A Warning of Alerting the Erratic Tach.,That's Usually A Sure Sign on the Hwy.U Need To Plan on New One SOON.Oreillys House Brand Just Goes South W/ out Such a Warning & Ur Left Stranded on the H/ Way

Thanks...

@@jbeerz3442 you're welcome

Just replaced mine using this method and it worked great! saved a bunch of time! The video of course was a great help as well :)

Thank you for the advice, trying this method tomorrow. Great video as well, very informative and easy to follow.

Some more detail, unclip 4 little clips on the outside casing, pull out the middle green locking tab, there is a very small black tab infront of each wire terminal, use a small screw driver and gently pry these forward, at the same time put on the wire and it will come out.

Michael McCoy how you take the connector off

The black connector that connects on top of the engine?

Your welcome 👍

Matt Kind I was very pleased to find the damaged wires. It was a ongoing problem and I was in the dark on how to fix my problem. Too bad there was not a CEL light to point me in this direction a bit sooner.

@k1ngbk1ng thank you for the feedback, glad it helped.

Will Simmons I'm glad it helped, We have owned this car about 5 years and I make videos on most repairs that I do for this vehicle.

Please tell me you found a solution for this 😵‍💫

@@ollyoop4036 I found the solution. Put a nice sized breaker bar(get a big one). Not ratchet, a BREAKER BAR. If you can get a medium size one that MAY work also. Put it on one of the bolts, hook on it tight. Turn your car key on to start the car within less of a SECOND. *DO NOT TRY TO TURN THE CAR ON ALL THE WAY* Just CRANK it for less than a second or split second and turn key back off. You will hear your breakbar hit something(most likely the control arm. That is how I removed them.

Al Ortiz stfu

Cállate pendéjo

because i'm sure these sensors are recommended maintenance items at a specific interval. i'm assuming it would line up around the same time you are supposed to replace the timing belt and all those other components as well..

Peter Mclaren what problem are you having? Was the vehicle surging and idling sporadically?

No the car has never "surging and idling sporadically" and now after fixing spark plugs and new crankshaft position sensor it will crank over but will not start. Originally i was towed home and the codes were for miss fires and one for crankshaft position sensor. Along with renewing the sensor(thanks to your video) i also renewed the spark plugs/coils/wires. On my code reader i now get an image of an engine block and "no engine trouble codes detected". the car cranks but will not start. I have never seen a "no engine trouble codes detected" on my code reader. even after pulling one spark plug lead off and cranking the car i still get the "no engine trouble codes detected". normally i would always get some code mostly i would have an immisions code. I own 3 cars so just to check the reader i tried it on the other two cars and it stated that i had immissions codes on those two cars. This code "no engine trouble codes detected" must ( i think) be specific to the Hyundai? As the code reader is stating that i have "no engine trouble codes detected" but the car cranks but not starts i an at a dead end as without codes i do not know what to do next.

Peter Mclaren would you mind sending me your email or even a number for texting?

Peter Mclaren I have sent you an email, if you don't see it in your inbox you may want to check your spam. I have removed your email from this post for your protection.

Did you check all the fuses yet?

Should I be checking the ECM fuses?

Would not having the alternator hooked up affect the ECM to stop it from running more than 5 seconds?

So when you do replace the crankshaft sensor, recheck and reset your camshaft sensor, fixed the problem and now is running great, Thanks so much

​@@barrygardner8103 how do u reset the cam sensor?

Have you tried spraying penetrating lubricant on the bolt?

@@TweekerDan1984 yes, twice. And its such in a tight space to.

No but you may be able to use a jack with a block of wood to help reduce some of the stress on that motor mount to allow you to get the bolt the rest of the way out.

Car started having drivability issues such as lag in acceleration, stumbles while driving or at a stop light and an occasional hard start. In my case our vehicle always started. Two other areas worth looking at would be your fuel pump and your ignition coils. The coils commonly fail on these vehicles.

@@TweekerDan1984 coils and plugs been replaced, i was also thinking fuel filter

Have you gone through all of the fuses throughout the vehicle? Also there is an inertia (fuel safety) switch located on the driver side firewall next to your brake booster.

@@TweekerDan1984 :: Its getting fuel.. I checked to see if it's getting spark from a spark tester and its not getting any.

There are many reasons for similar issues but I would hope that connecting the battery incorrectly would cause the sensor to fail before causing a fuse to blow. Many things can accrue hooking it up backwards, I would imagine that if your fuses are all testing fine that you may have a melted wire somewhere. The fuel system and crank sensor are reliant on completing the ground circuit. Are you by chance in LACEY, WA?

Chris Yeez I looked into this for you and after comparing the two engines I do believe the process will be almost identical on the Sonata.

Thank you for the response, plan on starting today actually. & do you recommend just changing all my belts while I am down there? Its at about 120k miles

Chris Yeez if the belts haven't been replaced or have cracks or fraying marks I would recommend changing them as well. I'll have my fingers crossed that everything goes well for you. It is a bit time consuming but was completely worth effort.

So I did end up changing the sensor as well as the timing, alternator ac, and power steering belt. After putting everything back together the engine cranks but doesn't turn over, but the P0335 code that was present went away. Do you have any ideas on what it might be? Thank you in advance.

Chris Yeez what brand Sensor did you go with? I've ran into issues with non oem sensors. I would double check the any connections you may have disconnected and also I would make sure that all of your spark plug wires are still snapped in securely. When you replaced your timing belt did you ensure that all of your markings were in the correct spot? I usually mark the gears and belt with whiteout to help with easier replacement. Unfortunately since I didn't need to replace the belt that wasn't part of this video.

Is there a chance it was wired backwards?

Well, they are color coded so no. I will buy a new one and test the other option by pulling the plug apart. A friend told me that these cables for inductive sensors might be shielded and I don't know if that's the reason.

Or do you mean that the sensor might have been incorrectly wired from the factory? It was a cheaper brand so it might be an option.

I would think that in order for the fuse to blow that the wiring may be crossed. Unfortunately I have seen some of the aftermarket sensors fail right out of the box.

+Craig Jennings, thank you for asking, it did not harm the signal. It has been over three months and everything has been perfect. 👍

+Craig Jennings, just as a FYI I have a few other helpful videos posted for this same engine.

william hurley yes this is the 2.4L motor, I believe the Sensor is also a common issue with the 2.7L engine as well.

If you are referring to the plastic harness clips then you will need a very small flat head screw drive, if you use two flat heads or small picks it will be easier. There will be small black tabs on the seams of the plastic clips and use the picks to separate them carefully. Sort of difficult to explain, I hope this helps. If you are meaning how do you disconnect the clips there is usually a red locking tab that you must move before disconnecting the harness.

Thank you for sharing.