Your welcome!

Great to hear your having fun again!

Your welcome! That's definitely something I can do.

Thank you for the feedback and thank you for watching.

If your looking to book a lesson, please reach out to me on my facebook athlete page: facebook.com/JeremiahRooneyBowling

I can definitely do a footwork video. Great recommendation!

Definitely something I can put on the schedule of videos. Thank you for the compliment!

I don't have a video dedicated to footwork. It's on the planned videos list when I have time to get back to making full length videos. In the meantime, implementing a skip step is not required to bowl two handed. The most important part is that you accelerate very quickly in your last 3 steps to the foul line in order to generate the power and ball speed you need. If your smaller in stature, a skip step is a must because it's hard to generate that power with regular steps. If your taller, you can do it with normal steps. If your trying to implement a skip step, I recommend drilling without a ball to practice the steps first as it's very different from a traditional 5 step approach. Start with a 3 step drill and practice just the skip part, then slowly move on to adding the first two steps back into your practice approach.

@@BigSkyBowler thank you for the advice. I'm hesitant to try to learn the skip step. However I am looking and evaluating every possibility for my new form. I will be on the lookout for a footwork video in the future. Thanks.

@@jonmatulef3039 your welcome!

Sorry for the late response, I've been so busy with tournaments that I have not had much time for YT. Yes, it matters greatly. Short oil forces a player to play more outside usually with lower ball surface grits. Lower volume usually forces a player to use higher ball surface grits and play multiple angles with more speed. The hardest pattern in my opinion is short oil with lower volume. Usually you will get at least 15 minutes or more of warm up time prior to the start of competition. This is plenty of time to find the right ball, especially if you use it wisely. I spend usually 3-4 shots identifying the pattern distance and volume by throwing a ball with a very low grit on it (usually 500). I will throw this ball very slowly in the first few shots and it will tell me everything I need to know about distance and volume. I will then spend the rest of the time going through my arsenal to identify a ball with good reaction. I spend almost zero time practicing spares.. its all about finding the right ball and getting it in the right area of the lane. The right ball will give me miss right and left with good results and not splits/washouts etc... It depends on what the rest of the field is doing. If the rest of the field is slinging urethane, I will as well because its hard to battle the carry down and breakpoint tightness as its being created. Easier to battle later in the block when the field starts to make the move to reactive. Depends on which ball is giving me a better look. The proper ball reaction should give a little miss right and a little miss left and either still carry a strike or at least leave a makeable spare. I will stick with whichever ball gives me the better look and the most control over the pocket. Sometimes that is symmetric, sometimes that is assymetric. Generally speaking, assyms will hook stronger in the front than a symmetric and will therefore give you more control at the breakpoint - but that also forces your angles to be more open. Always and I do mean always, make micro-adjustments before switching balls. Sometimes a 6 bagger is only a small adjustment away with the same ball. I will usually make a speed adjustment, an adjustment with my hand, or make micro move left or right before I put a ball back in the bag. Just keep in mind that urethane is not going to bend the lane like a reactive ball can unless you're on very short oil (cheetah). This means that you have less freedom to move around with a urethane ball because it will hook early and roll out. You are correct that some strategy is involved. There are two ways to combat the urethane breakdown. Move right and use the carry-down as hold or move left and keep your breakpoint to the left of the carry-down. Remember that carry-down occurs after the breakpoint, so on a shorter pattern, this would effectively lengthen the pattern a bit (usually within reason, like a foot or so). This means that when you switch to reactive you will have to play around with your breakpoint and figure out where it needs to be.

Are you only looking at the arrows? The best tip I ever received about targeting was to learn to target two points instead of one. When I am getting ready to throw, I initially look down near the end of the lane where I want my ball to get to, I then draw an imaginary line from that point to the arrows and finishing with where I am standing. Wherever this line crosses the arrows is where my visual target is. I then throw my shot. Connecting two points is easier to repeat than just looking at one spot. As you have already experienced, you can hit that one spot multiple ways and the ball will end up in different areas down lane.

@@BigSkyBowler -- Thanks, I will give it a try next practice session.

The best thing I would recommend is one step drills and focus on getting your non ball hand off the ball and rotating with your ball hand. You could also do no step release drills.

Agreed. Don't waste shots, use your time wisely. Sometimes, in some formats, knowing isn't an option

Plan to play 2-handed but shall I also drill a thumb hole just in case it doesn't work out? Or is there a big difference between 1h vs 2h balls should be drilled?

Hey sorry I failed to see this comment. If it's a good pro shop, they will have you throw several shots and measure your PAP several times before making a decision on your actual PAP. Layouts are very specific to your PAP and you have a decent understanding of what the PAP is. Depending on what your PAP turns out to be may limit your layouts. Some players cannot use certain layouts. There is a big difference in layouts between two handed and one handed players. One handed players normally use a system like dual angle or pin buffer for their layouts. Two handers need to be using Mikey Pinels PAL system. Center of grip is measured differently between the two styles as well so its better to go with one or the other. Using the proper layout system will ensure that the pin is placed in the proper spot to give the bowler the best shape on the lane.

@@BigSkyBowler thanks!

Urethane will always have a place. All balls have a urethane component in the coverstock, even reactive balls. The reason urethane is so popular on tour is because of how much control you get out of the ball. If you tug it a little bit, or if you miss a little bit to the right, it has a tendency to not overreact to that mistake. This reduces the amount of penalty you pay for making that mistake. Reactive balls have a tendency to make you pay the maximum for making a mistake

@@BigSkyBowler that’s kinda my point isn’t winning with urethane like riding a bike with training wheels. It seems like the really good bowlers only use it when other people r destroying the lanes with it because they aren’t good enough with the reactive. It’s like breaking the home run record… on steroids lol

@@Jgotcha187 not entirely no. You still pay for major mistakes, it just reduces the penalty. Instead of splits and washouts etc... you usually leave makeable spares. Eventually once the oil in the heads go, you can't use urethane anymore so Eventually transitioning to reactive is necessary. Now if your throwing a urethane ball that's way to soft, then it's like you described. That's why the USBC recently really hammered down on older urethane balls.

@@BigSkyBowler so what about urethane make it so much more controllable? I don’t know much about them I want to get into bowling on more difficult patterns what’s a situation u would find urself throwing that instead of reactive other than just because everyone else is. And how can u get a bowling alley to put out a different pattern other than a house shot to practice on? I’ve just been bowling on a league for 6 months now and I’m up to about 180 avg of course it’s on a house shot.

@@Jgotcha187 there are two things that make a urethane ball very controllable: 1. Soft and early hooking covers. 2. Lack of pores in the cover. The softness of the cover allows the ball to grip the lane very early, earlier than any reactive ball unless the reactive ball is under spec for hardness. The non-porous cover allows the oil to remain on the cover as the ball goes down the lane. These two factors combined reduce the quickness at the breakpoint and gives a smooth controlled shape. Urethane is normally my go to if I'm playing on a pattern that is exceptionally flat - flat meaning almost equal amounts of oil from right to left on the lane. Also it would be my go to if the back ends are playing very dry or jumpy. The best way, in my experience, to get a tougher condition out is to ask the center if they will do it. They usually will tell you what's required. Some places want you to bring a group in, others may want you to pay more per game, sometimes all you have to do is ask.

If only it was mine to answer- lol

Sorry you feel this way.