haha, I didn't know you needed to find it either. Thanks for watching!

agree, before replacing my power bank or 3rd party charger, i watching many of his review first to know which is the best.

Glad the video was useful.

It'd be nice if you could specify what the issue is. I just watched this video yesterday and your comment made sense to me but now I completely forgot what it was 😂

@@nhannguyen2190 It overheats.

​@@AllThingsOnePlace Will it also overheat when the load is lower, say, around 40-100w usually? I'd like something smaller, but this would be in use a lot.

@@kadajawi2 same question as yours, have you bought it yet?

Yeah, I bought some real cheap adapters and popped them open. I did a video on that a while back. They were pretty bad not quite as bad as what you are describing, I think they mostly worked. There's no shortage of junk out there though. I'd bet some of the mid-priced adapters on Ali are not bad though, but I haven't gone down that path yet.

Thanks for supporting the channel!

Yeah, on paper it looks amazing. They did make some improvements on the DC side but yeah they neglected the primary function of this device, take AC power and turn it into DC efficiently.

​@@AllThingsOnePlace Same thoughts. I was about to buy this. So due to the slight issue with the core functionality, what will be your most recommended alternative with better efficiency?

Thanks for watching! Yeah, I try to have a little fun but also get the information out there.

Yeah, I probably won't touch it for a long time based on the results of this one.

@@AllThingsOnePlace Yeah, I see users' comments about the 100W version , and it seems to have these issues as well.

Yeah, the 300W is in a different class.

Yeah, I have that power bank to review as well.

Yeah, there are two companies that do the safety listings with that marking that I've found. TUV SUD (both with the double dotted U), more common from what I have seen often pronounced 'TOOV SOOD' and TUV Rhineland.

@@AllThingsOnePlace There is also TÜV Nord (TÜV North), TÜV Thüringen and TÜV Saarland and TÜV Austria. There is also TÜV Indien, which is part of TÜV Nord and there is TÜVtürk, which is part of TÜV Süd (TÜV South). They are all at least partially owned by the Technischen Überwachungs-Verein e. V (The Technical Inspection Association Inc. (which is similar to e.V., though there are legal differences)). There is a special law for the TÜV (the TÜV convention) that makes them officially responsible for inspections. Concerning the pronounciation: It is similar to the U in Turkey / Türkiye.

Thanks for the suggestion, yeah, I do need to check that one out.

That’s too bad on the anker. They’re usually better than others on support so probably worth putting a ticket in. But yeah there’s still no “perfect” device.

@@AllThingsOnePlace I put a ticket in an hopefully they send me a new one. I had to come back though because, in the meantime, I bought an Anker 717 140W adapter back in March so I could still be able to charge my laptop and have 28V mode charging. Well, lo and behold, the brick is dead a little over a month later. No drops and no abuse. I just write this as a warning to others that the Anker GaN chargers are not all that reliable (i'm not the only one with this experience either). And for a suggestion to you! I know it's a lot of work but adding a segment on your channel for long term durability testing would greatly help out the community and normal consumers to know that the charger they are buying, while great at beginning of life, won't poop out on them 1 month into ownership with heavy use.

@@ConorV Yeah, I usually hear about the failures on here too. There are certainly some adapters that are worse than others, the 717 is a bad product, it has some kind of flaw. In the 240W Anker video I spent 3 minutes talking about how it probably won't last long either, it's the least watched or most skipped part of the video.

@AllThingsOnePlace i never even saw that video since i was never interested in the desktop adapter but i certainly will go watch it later today! Bummer about Anker. Anyways thanks for all the work you do!

Thanks for the heads up! Yeah, I have either that or a very similar one here to check out. I'd expect similar feature sets.

I have a couple shorts on that somewhere in the mess of this channel. Specifically apple cables. I do plan to do a video on the general application at some point but haven't organized enough yet.

ha, thanks for watching. Another one for the list. It's a long list but I do write them all down.

Thanks!

hmmm it's not a bad idea. At least a mention to whatever my last roundup of recommendations is. YT normally pushed this video as the next watch automagically.

Nice, thanks for the update!

Yeah, there is a small clip showing the detailed data at full load on this one but yeah, I am leaving out some of the measured data now. No THD, PF, VA, etc. Simplifying the numbers unless there is something really specific to note. So, with the more simplified numbers this video has the best watch time of any video I've posted in the last year!

Thank you @@AllThingsOnePlace

No no, it's the Nexode Pro Max! 😂

Yes.

Yes.

Yes, I guess call it what it is, a 100 watt charger.

@@AllThingsOnePlace 100W with 160W Quick Boosts for top up.

Yeah, I think I have that on for late January. It might be early February. I haven't even started that yet.

just some numbers i forgot to throw in. measured with ir on the surface, the top amd bottom and ports maxed at around 72 c and the heatsinked two faces also hit high 60s.

Yeah. It’s just so bad at thermal transfer the inside must still be hitting over 100C. Also, yes, I expect better.

Yeah, it's speculation on how it would translate to the smaller one, but yeah, smaller body, less radiating surface so if same efficiency, same heat transfer, same problem. On the 160W, I only test the highest power level for a sustained load. It's a time to effort thing. We can do some calculations though (rounding done to make it easier), so the 160W power level causes a 60 degree C temperature rise while dissipating 20W, at 100W it will dissipate 10W, this means every watt dissipated causes a 3 degree C temperature rise, so we expect the case to be about 30 degree C above ambient for a 100W load. About 50 degrees in this case, should be fine.

True. Thanks!

Yeah, I think ugreen really missed the boat on this one. That’s an opinion but the data seems to support that.

haha, yeah, that's a tough category. There is a lot of the same out there and most of it is not great. The Rocoren 140W is one of many of the same types that I actually use. It's far from what is probably the best charger but for me it has worked as required. It does also get hot. The apple 140W charger is probably the pick if reliability is the goal.

@@AllThingsOnePlace the Rocoren 140W was what I thinking of getting solely from watching your review. I'll probably get it on sale. Thank you very much!

There's only so much you can do with passive cooling in such a small device. Active cooling is required to maintain the small size of the power supply

Yeah, they certainly got the case size down for this power level, the efficiency being a little lower means it's just too many watts to get out of a small sealed box without, as you mention, active cooling.

Yeah, for Samsung I'd imaging the 30W charger would hit the current limit in the PD-PPS, power deliver, programmable power supply mode so 25W sounds like the correct limit for that device.

The 747 is an interesting device. I like it for it's even power sharing and generally good performance. It lacks the 140W on a single port capability and isn't quite as modern at power negotiation like this UGREEN. I just used the 747 today for two 65W devices and it just worked. This UGREEN can't do that.

Yeah, there are a few, and true, never trust the banner specs.

Yeah they all get hot basically. Price of making it small.

Not for a while. But eventually sure.

yo también esperaba lo mismo veo que es llamativo el BASEUS

I've been having issues getting newer Baseus adapters in... if it's slightly difficult they get bumped down the list.

Yeah, it'll be awhile but it is on the list.

Yeah, it is tough to make the videos for everyone. Probably one of my biggest struggles as a content creator. I think the three USB C and one USB A port chargers represent an excellent mix of ports. I tend to be partial to charges with a little more wattage because that means even if I am charging a power bank at 100 watts they don't get too hot. So, the Anker 747, 150W is an example that performs well and meets those requirements. It isn't as heavy or large as the Satechi but it suffers the problem you are talking about with falling out of outlets. I think that is the problem, there is no perfect adapter yet, each has a unique deficiency. I'm still daily driving the Satechi 165W. Although for lighter travel I bring the Anker Prime 100W and a short extension cord.

​@@AllThingsOnePlace thank you very much for your answer and your kindness. and also for your advice about the anker prime 100w. this wasn't even on my radar, as it isn't even yet available in my country in europe and sold out in germany. significantly smaller than the 120w version, but efficient enough for bigger macbooks and small devices. perfect for traveling indeed. thank you so much! i wish you a beautiful year and great success with your channel ...i'll stick to it and have recommended you already.

I'm not sure. I didn't test it at 100W, it will certainly go a lot longer. Probably long enough to charge a laptop at least. 12 watts of heat versus 19 watts of heat. ATX computer supplies have fans, they're usually under rated too, although some play games too, 600 watt max. I've seen that a few times.

Mmmm yeah. A short on that isn’t a bad idea.

I think you are stuck with what you've got if you want the performance. There's a few reasons performance laptops still come with big bricks.

haha, yeah, USB C has it's limitations and now with regulations of everyone must use this. The highest wattage single port announced device I've seen is the 180W framework still. I need to figure out how to get one of those.

If you don't need anything now, I'd wait. If you need a charger the 140W Ugreen is a better choice over this one in my opinion.

​​@@AllThingsOnePlaceThanks for your reply. Yeah, right now, I don't have any need for the pd 3.1 protocol but currently using an old 65w baseus charger that does not support samsung 45w (I have s20 ultra and a laptop that supports pd charge). Is the 140w have better thermal than the 160w? Planning to buy the 140w cause it will be on sale for around RM309 (65 usd).

@@devilfruit00 I would expect that 140W unit to run a little cooler as the efficiency is higher.

​@@AllThingsOnePlaceAlright. Thanks again for your fast response. Thank you for the amazing videos. Keep it up.

@@AllThingsOnePlace Sorry to ask you again. Do you have any other charger that you recommend other than UGREEN 140W? (Around the same price). Thank you.

Yeah, I'm still looking. The Anker Prime 100W should be plenty for those items though. The gopro will only use 5V anyway so USB A port that. That and a travel adapter.

Dell and HP are the only ones I know that do the Dell protocol. The PRO adapters support it but have limited current on PPS so not quite 5 amps but they should be close enough, topped out at 4.8 amps.

Yeah, I will eventually. I have a lot of backlog items to get through first.

Hello, Thanks for the question, here is a really long answer that is far from complete but at least hopefully helps move in the direction of understanding. Also note, I specifically am dropping mention of PFC and other AC metrics which you can decide are important after reading through my unrealistically long return on your comment, ha. I should've just made a video, although my confidence is high that it wouldn't get any views and would be looked at as fear mongering or too extreme. More current creates more heat, but between the two types of power supplies considered different components feel the stress. TLDR, electricity is cheap so the monetary benefit is considered not enough to matter. And now, lets go for a ride down the rabbit hole. Of course everything is looked at small picture, this one device doesn't matter but you can pretty easily have a lot of these plugged in around your house in various forms, lightbulbs to microwaves, tv and set top box, etc. Further work will show that you can't simply add the losses from one device to another, it is a square function so the losses suddenly go up faster than expected, the sum of current has to be calculated to find real power losses, which you do pay for, and that impact is quite significant but again often looked at as negligible due to cost of electricity. In a non-PFC (power factor corrected) supply the bridge rectifier and primary capacitors do more work and have to be larger. In a PFC supply, you add three additional significant power consuming components. Typically an inductor, a mosfet, and a diode but these components reduce the stress on the bridge rectifier and then require a smaller primary capacitor for the same power level. There is a crossover point where PFC versus non PFC matters. 65W is borderline. At that point for the extra effort to design a PFC circuit in you just make it a 100W charger. 2% efficiency hit is negligible cost wise for one device, by 9 devices it's 6% and it goes up from there, at typical household levels of electricity/devices it can be 10% or more. There's other considerations here too like linear devices consuming power as well, this is a whole separate topic and what some other videos focus on when talking about power factor. There are techniques to eliminate some of the components and change the topologies around but in reality these are stuck in the lab and there isn't an easy drop in chip yet. So, these techniques are reserved for very high end power supplies. Many designs aren't effective at low power levels, so not necessarily better options. The non-linear and non-sinusoidal nature of a switching power supply input stage without PFC creates a lot of harmonics and therefore creates losses in the rest of the system. Those harmonic currents are going to be primarily absorbed by the transformer feeding power to your house so you won't actually pay for that cost, you will pay for the resistance or real component of the additional current required to feed that power adapter though. At 65W this isn't much, a couple percentage points. As power levels increase this gets worse, losses are I^2*R so with the square of current, which is why at higher power levels you see PFC get introduced. It also means you can physically plug in more devices on the same 'circuit' since current is lower, this is an industrial advantage in that you can run smaller gauge wire or less physical circuits in a building to do the same work... So, efficiency is nice to look at, but as PF, power factor, decreases and the real power consumed goes up the actual efficiency also decreases. This doesn't matter on a single device basis, but on a many device basis the change is larger. This is all a little too controversial I guess and requires some more thought to see the effect and nature of these things. There are many reasons why this topic isn't covered anywhere, mostly cost is the excuse used. Good arguments can be made for why it doesn't matter especially if you look at one device and remember I am just one opinion on the topic, so all opinions are valid if they can be defended with data, which they can be and have been. If I add $1 to the cost of the power supply that's $10 to the purchaser, which they'll never make back and therefore the entire market will collapse if we make power supplies better, that's dramatizing the arguments against some of these things, but not far from reality in published documents. I did a quick experiment running a switch mode power supply with no-PFC and one with PFC through a 100 foot extension cord, the non-PFC device uses more real power through the cord because of the higher current but without the cord, measured at the socket, uses less. Again at low power levels the effect is not very dramatic but more watts means more current and square those numbers and the losses get a little wild. I should just make a video on this... I tried a few times and just looking at the small picture it isn't of any value but looking at at the larger picture opens up a level of valid criticism that would likely lead to the video never seeing the light of day. Even this comment is probably going too far. It reveals a scenario that people don't want to see. Which is partially why I'm backing off mentioning them in new videos. So, for your one device, go for whatever is going to work for your device and your needs. I am not the one to say no, I might provide an opinion but it is that, an opinion. Anyway, if you made it all the way through this nonsense let me know if my rantings made any sense, it's all in good fun.

@@AllThingsOnePlace Hey man, thanks for the detailed reply. This clearly is not my field of expertise, but I can kinda make sense of it all and get the implications thanks to your explanation.

I think the 140W is actually better than this one but everyone's needs are a bit different.

@@AllThingsOnePlace thank you sir.. I ordered this one from Amazon.. Also one more help.. Can you suggest a good car charger from ugreen.. Am asking ugreen because this is available in India.

@@anupkumarbisoyi4664 The CD130 car charger wasn't bad from UGREEN. It's primarily a phone car charger, not a laptop level device.

You're welcome

I didn't see anything that would indicate this is faulty other than it getting hot, the output voltage looked good, the input power also was being consumed properly, no hick-ups or oddities. But there is non-zero chance there is something not quite right with this unit, but if you were betting I'd say this one is fine and they're more like the unit I have. Watts dissipated makes sense for the heat level achieved. It'd have to be every component inside being the worst specified component to make this kind of a difference, so the transformer is made incorrectly, the PFC inductor is wrong, the mosfets have the maximum capacitance and resistance, chances are that would get flagged in op check in the factory and rejected. But humans are involved in all these processes so error is real. Eventually, I will look at the other Nexode Pro's maybe I will get a second one of these if I find a really good sale. TLDR - There's a small chance.

If they keep the power adapter in a higher voltage mode, when plugging or unplugging they will briefly shift to a lower voltage but unlike other chargers they don't completely shut the port off so the device hopefully won't show a notification like a new charger has been connected.

@@AllThingsOnePlace thank you so much for your response! Would you say the rocoren / voltme 65w charger is safe?

@@tomsik01 I'd probably lean more on rocoren for safety versus voltme. Voltme doesn't actually have a safety listing, I've taken apart a few of their devices apart though and they look okay but that doesn't replace actual testing and verification that they're made to be safe.

Thanks for the suggestion with model, that helps find the specific one. I have a lot of things on the list but that is on the list now.

answered in other thread.

In this case, yes, it as a whole, dissipates less total power and therefore doesn't get as hot.

So, depending on device compatibility with USB C and USB C PD then they should work with this charger. You will have to check the individual devices to find out if they support the modes offered by this charger. Often the manufacturers don't list this information publicly so you'd have to contact them to find out, and then you will still have to fight for it.

Thank you very much!! I'll try some things and see what works

Yeah, I think a lot of them have thermal issues. They made them so small there isn't anywhere for the heat to go, even if it's a GaN charger. GaN has real advantages but the way they advertise them is pretty far from the reality.

@@AllThingsOnePlace so we are paying high price for GaN chargers ,but no significant value than Normal Big chargers?

I used to see that on older adapters. A little mesh screen to help get the heat out of larger laptop adapters.

Yeah, it was better overall than this 'PRO' line adapter.

That's a lot of stuff, it would probably overheat with all that stuff connected and discharged all at once. One or two at a time this would be fine for all of those.

I guess I don't just consider one metric as the answer... If you just want to look at size, this one is very compact for what it does, so yes it is near if not the best for the on paper specs versus size.

What's a good pd adapter at 160w range?

Not sure yet.

Yeah, I have the 65 and 100W Nexode Pro's here. So, coming soon. I'm not sure if it will be directly compared to the 120W though. I usually only have a few spots video comparison wise, so would probably pick the A2343 anker as the competition.

I am looking forward to that video. When will it be available? A bit unfortunate that you don’t plan on adding the 120w to the comparison. I feel like it would be a good addition and I hope you change your mind. 😃

@@AllThingsOnePlaceyah pls do an conparison 140w ugreen vs other brand

I did check one of their products. In the EU 30W video. I thought it was okay. I tore it down and there was a clear decrease in quality versus the hama and cellularline I compared it to.

I give them a chance since at least it appears they are trying.

I've done a lot of apple chargers. All but the 70W, which might just be a blog post instead of a video.

@@AllThingsOnePlace thank you. I’ll try to find these videos

Thanks for the suggestion.

It's here, coming soon.

Thanks, I will pin a comment for that.

I will be testing the UGREEN at some point.

Yeah, it's always been kind of a floating test point. I use the ultra low wattage to represent leaving a low power device plugged in or something like a lightning cable but no device. So, it does have a use case that's surprisingly not rare.

It depends. If you have issues with line transients, lightning prone, in your area then yes, they often remove some protection components from these chargers to save space or cost. Do you NEED to, no. It is risk management, is it a pretty low risk, yes. Is the protection in each charger a little different, yes.

The Zmi was very capable, the Anker Prime power banks have this as well, they're on the premium end of the market price wise. Baseus blade has it as well. They all tested reasonably well for power banks.

I haven't found any that can do that yet. They don't evenly share power, so most 100W adapters won't do that.

@@AllThingsOnePlace which charger would you suggest to charge my tab s9ultra and my s23 ultra at maximum wattage?

Power splitter?

@@AllThingsOnePlace Will charging of the second device be interrupted?

Not yet.

Yeah, USB C but what protocol. It could be Quick Charge, QC, or some odd voltage, lots of companies don't follow the USB PD protocol but stuff a USB C port in because they are cheap.

Yea I mean as a consumer, I really don’t care how or what. I want to be able to charge my device which is very picky. If you do a quick Google search, you will see that these devices don’t even recognize many chargers out there except for their own. I want to know which charger other than the bulky charger it comes with, can get the job done. It is a tough cookie to crack but I assure you, as a marketing professional, the search volume is worth it for any content creator!

@@kazifarhan can you email me some pictures of the adapter that comes with it? its the channel name at gmail

One is on 230V and one is on 120V, the compliance standards will change to EU ones. It needs a better indicator to let you know that the two tests are different. But yeah, it groups them because the model is the same. You can technically upload as many datasets as you want for the same model and it will offer them as a list.

@@AllThingsOnePlace thank you for response

I'd wait.

This won't support the fast charge on that phone. You have to get their charger for that. 120 watts into a phone sounds like a gimmick. I'd probably not pick this charger anyway. You don't really need many watts for the macbook air, so if you can find a dual port charger with support for PD (at least 30 watts) and fast charging your phone that's probably the one to get.

@@AllThingsOnePlace Mac air m2 is supports 140W. Xiaomi 11T Pro supports 120w fast charge. I have a huge adapter for it ^^ %1 to %100 takes 12 13 mins. If i buy 160W UGreen. can it damage mac air ? or my phone while charhing ? i do not want to carry all adapters with me so im going for one adapter and the best one ^^

I have it here, haven't finished the review yet.

@@AllThingsOnePlace great! waiting for it!

Yeah, I couldn't hold onto the adapter after that test.

It's a tough question because it depends on what devices you have. Most people only need a phone and maybe an accessory charger (watch, headphone, etc.), so 45 watt Ikea charger? If you need to charge and power a laptop, but not one with a big graphics card or a MBP 16in, then anything 100 watts is my usual recommendation. If you need the larger power level or have lots of devices, then the Anker 240W (the desktop not crazy new one) is very capable.

@@AllThingsOnePlace something to keep my MBP 16 inch 2021 power up when in use.

@@AllThingsOnePlaceis it ok to get this one just to charge MBP M1 16 inch?

No idea. I've been working up to those but haven't tested them yet.

They are on the list. No idea when though.

The Anker 240W is pretty good. It's expensive and large though. My go to is still the 165W Satechi, but it's not for everyone. I think most people can get away with 100W and down for chargers if they aren't powering a laptop all the time.

@@AllThingsOnePlace thank your the reply ❤️

In time, maybe.

I don't remember getting one in this box.

No.

I think my best buy is still the Anker 100W prime for a compact 100W adapter. I still use it as a daily carry.

@@AllThingsOnePlace alrighty! that's what I'm gonna buy the 😎 thanks bro! good video by the way 👌

@@AllThingsOnePlace by the way, is it the 736 or 737?

@@masollano He means Anker Prime 100W GaN Wall Charger (A2343)

Yeah, even the chargers that have the higher current at 5V mode won't support the Pi. I don't think I've ever seen a charger that can meet the demands of the pi except the pi charger itself. Or ones that have bad fault protection. No idea why they didn't just add 9V support even, that would make it compatible with literally all the USB C adapters on the market of 30W and up.

That's more compelling.

@@AllThingsOnePlace thanks to the discount voucher and additional discount from the ugreen online store at Lazada.

ha yeah I guess.

Yeah, it's like the Satechi 200W, I don't know why they bothered, they know it isn't as good, but put the product out anyway. Do we need more mediocre chargers in the market?

haha. I tried to have better timing on this one.

Yeah, it's pretty hard to find things not made in China. The Belkin video has three made in Vietnam chargers. The USA doesn't really have any excuses not to make stuff like this except they politically eliminate any viability of manufacturing. This charger made in USA with AVX caps, Wolfspeed and TI chips... it'd be so expensive.

Thanks.

It was a nice try from UGREEN, the ripple voltage was probably the most interesting out of this device. Very clean DC. I think that will be many of the videos released, this tried and failed. But it was different enough to be interesting at least.

I should pin my own comment to win.

Watch the video.