I'm pretty sure that even the manufacturer of this filament does not have this much data of their product! Thanks for your awesome work!

This channel is the best filament review and testing I've seen. Deserves much more traffic. 👏

Still the best channel for filament property information!

I can never get enough temperature tests...and this video doesn't disappoint!

This is such an absurd amount of work. I've had a video like this in the making for almost a year....Thank you so much for posting and sharing the data. It's amazing to see how much the material properties of different nylon filaments can vary.

Agree, you found a really good niche. Insane work. Will recommend your channel for all Material tests. Keep up the good work!

I have been printing in pa-6cf for the last two months or so. I have been absolutely thrilled with it's performance. I think the annealing process helps greatly with layer adhesion and tensile strength. If you try annealing it I think you'll be impressed.

Thanks for doing such thorough testing on these materials! The PA-6 fibrous materials are amazing for functional parts!

Thank you for taking the time to do all the testing you do saving us time and choices for future projects

This was hugely helpful. Thank you for all this work. PA6-CF is going to be a great substrate for some of our products.

This is the most thorough test I think I've ever seen in my life.

Excellent tests! I thought PA 12 was more heat resistant. Glad I watched this.

Amazing information. The manufacturer should definitely be paying you for this.

Great video, really like the testing of less common filaments. Thanks for all the hard work

Now you also got PA612-CF to test. 😅

Great info, thanks for testing and sharing! Gives me confidence to continue using Polymide PA6-CF. Regarding the timing belts: You cannot print those kind of parts with CF-Nylons. Nylon without fibers could work, but is still very stiff. Maybe usable with large pulleys, certainly not those tiny ones as they are found on printers for example.

When printing without fan you need to move the printhead away from the parts to let them cool down. I always print a cylinder in the corner of the bed thats the same height as the part and thats normally good enough for even small parts. Increasing the cooling just makes the part weaker.

Thank you for the test, really well done. One note, maybe have PLA as a comparison.

I am really impressed how good the bed adhesion is with Polymaker. I've also used satin sheet with this gluestick, and PA12 and PA6 warped like crazy from the bed. With Magigoo PA it was much better but finally with Prusa PA Sheet it is just fantastic. Congratulations to Polymaker to make such easy to print filaments

Great job. It has been fun watching your progress over time. Definitely better than anything I could do. Learn so much.

I just found you. I've been looking at printing CF nylon. I really appreciate your testing methodology.

Amazingly thorough tests. I wish you had printed them in higher temperature printers with enclosures, and printed with a higher nozzle pressure. Those have been key to my findings of ultimate strength. I am aware that they state to use a lower print bed, but I have achieved highest tensile strength and impact strength by printing in 60 degree enclosure with 90 degree print bed, 300c for PA6, 275c for PA12 or PA612. I do not use CoPA. I have printed approximately 100kg of Polyamides over the last few years with these settings, making hard use items.

Amazing video! thank you so much for doing all this work. The new bending test is great in my opinion. ISO and ANSI should copy it for testing polymers haha

19:56 this highlights a problem with your testing method. The back of the hammer is further away from the pivot point than the front, so there can be lots of friction if the sample didn't break off completely. This friction has nothing to do with impact strength, so will distort the results, as it did in the PA6-CF test here. To fix this I'd suggest to turn the hammer around, with the pointy end forward, and angle the head down at a 60-80 degree angle. This way there's only 1 contact point and no possibility of further friction.

Very very helpful data. Thankyou for taking the time to make this incredibly detailed video

Thanks ! It really is Great to see real engineers at work.

Wonderful video! Thank you for your attention to detail and time to go through each test and the results. This video has been the best resource for understanding the actual performance difference between these filaments.

Been using Esun PA-CF and it has made some good strong parts. Interested in trying polymaker glass filled nylon for something. Admittedly i have not annealed anything. Im scared of warping. Great video!

Saved me some $$$ on filaments to test. Thankyou!

Awesome video, Igor. Thank you for the updated spreadsheet on the Patreon page, very useful. With respect to the new bending test, I like it. I would like to see a longer stabilization time on the higher loads so we can see where it levels off. That would add even more effort to your tests so I understand why you might not want to do that. With respect to the torque test, I find the method adequate for me. I don't use printed bolts often, though I have done a few and 6 mm diameter is the smallest I go. So the test part diameter you use is a close enough approximation of the max torque I can apply. That is useful to know. With respect to the screw creep torque test, I do see creep in my bolts on my functional parts, so this test is really educational and useful. How many perimeters, and at what line width, do you have around the hole? I am sure the hole wall thickness will affect the results. I try to have solid material under the washer or bolt head. Many thanks for your work Igor. Tom

Nice and consistent testing of interesting materials. Like it! 👌😁💯

Very good effort. If you wouldve used a heated chamber, your results wouldve improved alot when it comes to layer adhesion.

Dude I looooove your videos so much you literally have so much information that I am seeking!

Wow! Thank you so for much for your effort, this video is just perfect

Thanks!

Very interesting video. Thank you very much for sharing the comprehensive and scientific testing.

I like the new bending test but knowing the max load it can take is good as well, If we can have both that would be good. Over all, you do whats best.

Excellent in-depth review, I'm really impressed with the results from these filaments.The PA6-GF and PA6-CF were both outstanding performers. I'm going to give PA6-GF a try for its excellent price / performance ratio. Don't think I would will use PA12-CF in the near term given its price is very steep and the PA6 filaments were really stout performers.

excellent video, now we need a comparison with prusa PA11 CF and fiberlogy CPE

This ist a really excellent Video with so much useful information, thank you very much for your work!!

Also, data for annealed parts would be interesting. I've read that many carbon fiber filaments don't suffer from significant shrinkage when annealed, but that it can significantly improve creep.

Fantastic review of the PolyMaker PA filaments - absolute gold! I would love to know the speed, retraction and bridge flow settings used in those tests - I have been printing with PolyMaker PA6-CF for some time and getting clean bridges and smooth surfaces (on dried filament on a Voron) has not been easy - but your temperature towers looked very clean first go.

Great write up and video. I saw that Polymaker has a new PA612-CF filament in "beta" testing, curious how it stacks up against their current lineup.

Seeing that oven test, makes me curious which one transfers heat the best(Carbon should do good but it is usually not contiguous and peppered randomly in the material) - use-case: a battery case that assists in removing internal heat to the outside.

Not finished with the video yet but you can't use the timing belt right off the plate. Need to soak it in water overnight first

Thanks for such useful information.

Brilliant video. Very informative thank you.

The timing belts in nylon needs to be humidified before bending. Dry nylon is very brittle, but after some time in ambient air it will become much less brittle. Think if regular zip-ties, new from the bag they can sometimes be brittle, but after only a few days in the opened bag the zip-ties are much stronger and will not break.

Great test, but don't expect me to eat your home made meals.

Thank you for this video.

Another excellent video! I mostly stick with eSun filaments and have enjoyed your videos on those. I have a few spools of their ePA-CF which I was planning to use for some projects, but no one's done any testing on these from what I can see, so that would be my suggestion for a future video (along with their ePA12-CF, and ePAHT-CF for good comparison with the Polymaker filaments).

Awesome content ..!! As always you are extremely thorough ... Thank You for sharing.. Cheers :)

Polymaker just made a new line called fiberon. They are the same materials just now called "fiberon" which are enchanced. Would you be doing a new test on these?

Thank you for your tests!

I wonder if you cannot extrude more filament or just have bigger line on line cross section. You test probes looks like underextruded on the curves. There is lack of filament in many cases. Like the way you test it but can you try to add more filament to it ?

This is so well done! Thank you!

A very nice review, a very small question, is the glue you use any kind of glue? Is the content different?

The tests are very useful, however one test for nylon/PA is missing. Nylon is often used to make washers and bushes, and that is because it has slippery surface- self lubricating. I can imagine a test which has the object under test as a bush, and a bolt is fastened through the bush and a metal lever is sandwiched between, and bolt is tightened to a specified torque. then the torque required to move the lever is measured. a lower value is better. Take the test further to move the lever through iterations of movement and see how much wear occurs on the object under test.

Polymaker claim that best performance for these filaments is achieved only after annealing. I wonder if the results would have changed if the parts were annealed (I'm particularly interested in the CO-PA creep test)

bravo, also are we ad free moving forwards? either way congratulations! so PC is the overall best filament out there?

Excellent job! Thanks a million

Thanks for this great review!

For the timing belt, CoPA will be much more flexible after hydrating and annealing in boiling water for an hour

What is the best for gun/ frames?

great video!

Are you planning to test PC-GF?

i would be intrested to see comparison between polymaker pc-max prusa pcblend, or any other pcblends

Where's paht-cf come in?

Very nice for the vídeo you the best brother...

I am a bit surprised that the PA12 creeped worse than the PA6, I have heard different stories

Please show us your solution for the y axis motor cooling on S1 Pro when you are done.

Thank you, Engineer 😌

This is a wonderful video and very informative. After using Taulman Nylon 645 for years, they went out of business and I’ve been hunting a replacement. CoPA seems like the winner for me here due to its flexibility. Have you tested any chemical resistance on these filaments?

fansastic, great job!

should also compare with the PPACF

Can you test all of polymakers pc filament? Includes pc pbt and pc abs and pc fr

Could you give a walk through of your PrusaSlicer settings for these filaments? I'm not having any luck with PA6-CF or PA6-GF, they both come out looking like an over extruded mess.... Maybe I just need to dry them, but I've never had this much trouble with new filament before. The PA12 prints fine and so does the PA612.

thank you, great info!

Which of these would you use for printing small drone propellers 0.6mm blade tip with base around 1.2mm I was planning on the PA6-gf but due to the small thin blade I am wondering if using PA6 or PA12 cf would be better? Blade are under Constant flexing pressure when used.

thanks a lot

hello Igor, you have a lot of printing hours on your back, do you think it has any real benefits of changing the heatblock and the partfan on the Ender 3s1, if you never print faster than 70-80mm/s?

Hello. What size nozzle for pa6 cf?

Can you compare these results to PA612-CF? Or have you tried PA612-CF yet?

Who makes a good filament dryer available in USA?

Nothing against this channel but it's annoying that Polymaker flooded the web and YT with content about only their MODIFIED versions of Nylon. In many, perhaps most applications plain nylon PA6 or PA12 is superior. Sure sometimes the additives help but most of us printing Nylon want the strongest parts we can make, that's NOT possible with this Polymaker stuff. That said I still really like this channel.

Does it make any difference to strength on the small cross section areas if instead of increasing fan speed, you increase layer time with no fan?

Have you done comparison on PC vs PA (gf/cf) ?

The way things break show your printing temperature was not high enough for optimal layer adhesion. With higher printing temperatures you would get even stronger parts.

You should not test the nylon belts right off the bed, leave them to absorb moisture first or soak them in water to speed it up. As nylon absorbs moisture it becomes much more flexible. You are testing it in its driest state which is not really indicative of it in use unless you use it in a very dry environment.

the pa6 component is drastically weakened by moisture. (hygromechanik)

Can someone tell me what he said….?

Thanks!